ok, let me start off by saying that I suck at building things and I usuallly cut three times and never measure. I was very doubtful about my ability to build an alcohol stove. But, I thought Id give it a shot. And let me tell you, it was incredibly easy....

The Super Cat Stove:

An easy to build, easy to operate, super lightweight, pressure based alchy stove.

I got the plans off this website: http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/index.html

Based off the recomendation from Jason Klass website:
http://www.freewebs.com/jasonklass/

The Construction:
I built this stove in about 5 minutes using an awl and a catfood can I got at walmart (40 cents) I didnt really measure anything, I just looked at the diagram on Jims site and eyeballed it. (I figured I would try it rough once and then go back and take my time if it required a second attempt) I followed Jims advice and crimped down the rough metal spots and got a nice smooth surface. When I was done I realized I had pretty much duplicated what the website depicted so I figured I would give it a shot and fire it up.

Using the stove:
I used about 1.25 ozs of HEET. I decided on HEET because it was cheaper and I read somewhere that it burns great. I lit a match and let the stove prime for about 20-25 seconds. I put the pot (household cooking pot w/ lid) down on the stove and realized I had done so too quickly and had put out the flame. I followed the same process but this time I put the pot down a bit slower on the stove, there was a woosh and all of a sudden I had beautiful blue flames pouring out of the stove. Ive seen some pepsi can stoves in action, but nothing like this. I must have hit the nail right on the head because I had a perfect looking flame. The flame output on this thing is amazing. I had a pot of boiling water (rolling boil) in just a matter of minutes (no more then 5), w/ fuel to spare. The water was out of the faucet, certainly not room temp, but certainly not ice cold.

In the field:
I think this stove would perform very well in the field. There are no parts to lose, the operation is so simple, and the results speak for themselves. The pot felt very stable on top of the stove and I had no fear of knocking it over. The only things I noticed are...when I pulled the pot of the stove some residual HEET was burning on the bottom of my pot, no big deal just had to wait a few seconds for it to burn off. The other factor I think comes in to play w/ this stove is that you really have to cook on a level surface. But flat surfaces really arnt that hard to come by and so this shouldnt be a problem.

Anyway, Im going to build another one, and I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend. Why would you mess w/ building a pepsi can stove when you can have something better in a matter of minutes!

I'm going to build another one, and I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend.!

Yeehaa! you don't know it yet, but you're an addict... welcome! congrats on your building... fun, ain't it? :D



Why would you mess w/ building a pepsi can stove when you can have something better in a matter of minutes!

well, as you'll find out, it's about fuel efficiency... pretty soon, you'll be drilling 24 holes instead of 22 holes in a pepsi stove, or spacing the two rows of 3/16'' holes in the cat stove 1/4" apart, or any of the endless permutations and combinations, just to see what happens, in an endless quest to make water boil as quickly and efficiently as possible... the cat stove is way simple, but not too efficient (compared to something like sgt rock's ion stove, for example).

the other reason is pot size... personally, if it were a little wider and more stable, i'd put up with the less efficient fuel use... this week anyway... i've experimented with other sized cans, and haven't figured it out yet... maybe next time, it will work... (and so begins another experiment...)


again, welcome.

thanks, as you were writing that I was in the basement looking for a smaller awl

ok, by the numbers....2 cups of 55 degree water. 1 1/4 ounces of HEET. Rolling boil in 4 minutes and 10 seconds. That seems pretty damn efficient if you ask me! ps this time I used a smaller awl.

I lit a match and let the stove prime for about 20-25 seconds.


Congratulations! To reduce the priming time, try this: http://www.freewebs.com/jasonklass/supercatwick.htm

This saves on fuel so you won't run out before a boil.

Congratulations! To reduce the priming time, try this: http://www.freewebs.com/jasonklass/supercatwick.htm

This saves on fuel so you won't run out before a boil.
Yah I read that, but honestly I dont really understand it. What purpose does wrapping the string around the outside of the stove do. And if you put drops of alchy on it and light it, wont it burn?? (the string that is) I think im missing the big picture here.

. . . Anyway, Im going to build another one, and I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend. Why would you mess w/ building a pepsi can stove when you can have something better in a matter of minutes! thanks, as you were writing that I was in the basement looking for a smaller awl ok, by the numbers....2 cups of 55 degree water. 1 1/4 ounces of HEET. Rolling boil in 4 minutes and 10 seconds. That seems pretty damn efficient if you ask me! ps this time I used a smaller awl.You are SO doomed! Quick! The only way to end the madness is to buy a Trangia or an Ion

All kidding around aside, I firmly believe that the more you tinker with alcohol stoves the better you understand them and the better they’ll perform for you in the field, whatever stove you finally settle on. Good luck, and let’s see those photos!

all joking aside, i think many of us stove tinkers can, after a few trial runs, make a workable stove out of just about any kind of can. i find that that is a huge source of satisfaction, and makes me feel a bit more self-reliant/free. i've even made a stove using just a pair of office scissors and a pushpin (really slow work day). oh, and a couple cans too... not pretty, not efficient, but it worked... and to me, that was the important thing.


and owning an ion doesn't end the madness... at least not for me...

(hey... can i have that can when your done with it? why you lookin' at me like that? :D )

Yah I read that, but honestly I dont really understand it. What purpose does wrapping the string around the outside of the stove do. And if you put drops of alchy on it and light it, wont it burn?? (the string that is) I think im missing the big picture here.

It's not string. It's fiberglass wick. You add the drops to the wick and light it. The stove primes almost instantly (instead of 25 seconds) saving fuel. It doesn't burn. I put it on all of my stoves now.

The SuperCat is pretty great. The cool thing is that you can make that 'style' of stove with just about anything. I used the bottom 1.25 inches of a V8-type can with a similar hole pattern. It fits nicely in the bottom to boil a Heineken/Fosters pot of water. Came out to a feathery .1oz. Fragile, though!
-Mark

The SuperCat is pretty great. The cool thing is that you can make that 'style' of stove with just about anything.

That's one thing I like about it too! Check out this version: http://practicalbackpacking.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85

Sorry, I hate to rain on your stove, but the super cat sucks. They're great if you want to play building stoves - which is an honorable hobby, but they don't cut it as a real stove.

care to say why you think that?

Sorry, I hate to rain on your stove, but the super cat sucks. They're great if you want to play building stoves - which is an honorable hobby, but they don't cut it as a real stove.

OK, so why? And what do you carry that's so much better?

. . . and owning an ion doesn't end the madness... at least not for me...Well, it didn’t really end the madness for me either, but it did alleviate it for a while. :D (hey... can I have that can when your done with it? why you lookin' at me like that? :D )Um, that’s never happened to me. No, really. Really. OK, now why are YOU looking at me like that? :eek:

Well now that I poked the nest.. :)

I have built and experimented with this stove design and I have a pile of them on the corner of my work bench.

Here are the negatives I hold against the super cat:

Very sensitive to hole combinations
The "perfect" hole size required purchasing a sheet metal working hole punch.
Very, very sensitive to wind. Practically useless in the slightest of breezes. You must have a very good windscreen that goes up the sides of the pot. I don't know how you would ever light it and make it work on a cold, rainy-windy day. Maybe dig a hole.
Unstable.
Fragile.Other than the above, it is fine. It is the lightest stove concept I'm aware of.

I use a Trangia burner, triangle wire pot stand and rolled flashing. The Trangia always lights, it doesn't blow out, holds 3oz of fuel so I never have to wonder if I have enough for the meal, simmers for over an hour, and is self-storing.

Those are all good point but none of them seem to apply to me. I already have the punch because I make a lot of stoves so I don't see that as a disadvantage. Even so, the punch is only $14 and any serious stove maker should have one anyway. As for wind, it is only sensitive if the windscreen isn't set up properly. I recently tested out a tea light stove (which is even more sensitive to wind than the Supercat) in 40 MPH winds and it didn't affect the boil time. I've had the same type of experience with the Supercat. What kind of windscreen are you using? I add a base to mine made from the top ring of another can to make it more stable. I've never had a pot tip off. As for delicacy, that's no issue for me either since I always put my stove inside my pot anyway. The Trangia is too heavy for me. Oh well, to each their own.

This is inspiring, as I've just acquired three cat food cans from a friend with a cat.

However, I'm one who worries about the pot (2L aluminum, 5 7/8" diameter) falling off or getting knocked off. Any tips or comments on this? Do you have to be super careful to set it on level ground?

It's not string. It's fiberglass wick. You add the drops to the wick and light it. The stove primes almost instantly (instead of 25 seconds) saving fuel. It doesn't burn. I put it on all of my stoves now.
I can not see what the wicking has to do to help either. How does it help heat the stove faster? The wait/prime is to get the fuel in it heated up so that is starts to vaporize and creates a pressure. I don't see how the wicking on the outside of the stove helps that. Also I would rather keep my fuel on the inside of the stove personally.

I made a stove last night and followed the directions from the web site that RITBlake posted and used a paper hole punch for my holes and it worked fine. I also found that the web site said to use one ounce of fuel. I found that to be way to much fuel. 1/2 ounce is more like it. In fact I measured mine buy filling two soda caps with fuel and putting it in the stove. By doing this I have gotten mine to heat water with the windscreen in 3 minutes.

As for the priming. I would that the doing what I did above did not waist much fuel at all. I used tow soda caps of fuel and lit it with a lighter and waited until the fuel started to bubble around the edges of the stove and then placed my post on the stove. This took about 10 to 15 seconds.

However, I'm one who worries about the pot (2L aluminum, 5 7/8" diameter) falling off or getting knocked off. Any tips or comments on this? Do you have to be super careful to set it on level ground?

i have used the stove in all sorts of weather... rain, cold, whatever... yes, you have to use a windscreen... i do that with all stoves... if nothing else, it saves fuel, even with big stoves like the MSR simmer/whisperlites. it's only common sense, and keeps the heat closer to your pot, warming it more quickly. yes, it's a little tippy, but not terrible... you just have to watch what you set it on. i use an ion stove, with a separate pot stand, becuase of that issue... if i could figure out how to get the holes right using something a little wider (like a can from some chip dip), i might revert...

on a side note, i do most of my hole making with a drill, not a punch... i use a layout ruler with a piece of masking tape down the middle to sort out how far apart x number of holes should be, then peel it off and wrap it around the can... much easier than measuring and then marking on the can itself...

Very sensitive to hole combinations
The "perfect" hole size required purchasing a sheet metal working hole punch.
Very, very sensitive to wind. Practically useless in the slightest of breezes. You must have a very good windscreen that goes up the sides of the pot. I don't know how you would ever light it and make it work on a cold, rainy-windy day. Maybe dig a hole.
Unstable.
Fragile.

I've used the Super Cat for over a year now (including a Katahdin to Stratton section, and Alaska) and I have been nothing but impressed by it.

1. I have found the super cat to be anything but sensitive to hole combinations. It seems to work no matter how you drill the holes. There is also a templete online that makes it very very simple to get an effecient combinataion.

2. I dont own any type of metal punch and I get what I consider "perfect" holes. When making a stove I first tape on a templete then poke through the center of each hole with a thumbtack. This makes it so every hole will be placed exactally where I want it. I then grab the drill, and drill into each of those holes. Very little metal is left on the inside of the SuperCat, which i flatten using a socket wrench head that I roll around inside. Works perfect every time.

3. I've used the stove in pretty good wind. As long as you have a good windscreen and pay attention to where you light your stove (like you would for anything, I've had more trouble with my MSR Whisperlight back in the day) like staying behind a rock or tree you will be absolutely fine.

4. I have NEVER had my stove tip over or threaten too. I just pay attention that I put the stove onto a relatively flat ground. Like any other stove...

5. The Super Cat is suprizingly strong. I have yet managed to hurt a stove after putting them through considerable abuse. Even if you accidently step on the stove you can always unbend it and use it. It wont be as effecient, but it will get you too the next town. Not a lot of stoves survive being stepped on that well (I dont see a soda can stove or a whiser light being able to work at all)

Pink

I can not see what the wicking has to do to help either. How does it help heat the stove faster? The wait/prime is to get the fuel in it heated up so that is starts to vaporize and creates a pressure. I don't see how the wicking on the outside of the stove helps that. Also I would rather keep my fuel on the inside of the stove personally.

.

Let me explain: When you light the wick, it heats up the metal of the stove faster, thus, the fuel heats up faster. A lot of energy is spent when the stove is priming just to heat up the aluminum. The wick avoids this and helps everything warm up faster. I'm assuming you got a 15 sec. prime time inside? Outside, the Supercat takes around 25-30 seconds to prime (longer if it's cold). With the wick, the prime time is reduced to 2 or 3 seconds. It absorbs the fuel so it doesn't run all over the place. Trust me, it really works! I got the idea from Tinny at minibulldesigns. He uses different material but it's the same principle. You'll notice he puts wicks on most of his stoves too: http://www.minibulldesign.com/fs2.htm

At altitude or in the cold the wick makes all the difference in the world and saves fuel.

This is inspiring, as I've just acquired three cat food cans from a friend with a cat.

However, I'm one who worries about the pot (2L aluminum, 5 7/8" diameter) falling off or getting knocked off. Any tips or comments on this? Do you have to be super careful to set it on level ground?

I haven't had one fall off yet and I use a pot of similar diameter to your. If you look carefully at the bottom of this stove you'll see a base which increases stability: http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g294/jasonklass/supercat.jpg

This base leaves a "lip" on the underside that kind of digs into the ground.

Let me explain: When you light the wick, it heats up the metal of the stove faster, thus, the fuel heats up faster. A lot of energy is spent when the stove is priming just to heat up the aluminum. The wick avoids this and helps everything warm up faster. I'm assuming you got a 15 sec. prime time inside? Outside, the Supercat takes around 25-30 seconds to prime (longer if it's cold). With the wick, the prime time is reduced to 2 or 3 seconds. It absorbs the fuel so it doesn't run all over the place. Trust me, it really works! I got the idea from Tinny at minibulldesigns. He uses different material but it's the same principle. You'll notice he puts wicks on most of his stoves too: http://www.minibulldesign.com/fs2.htm

At altitude or in the cold the wick makes all the difference in the world and saves fuel.

For the ammount of fuel you going to put on the wick it seems it is going to be about the same ammount you are going to use for priming without the wick. So the only advantage I see is about a 20 secaone faster priming time.

For the ammount of fuel you going to put on the wick it seems it is going to be about the same ammount you are going to use for priming without the wick. So the only advantage I see is about a 20 secaone faster priming time.

I can see how you would think that but if you saw it work in real life, you'd be convinced. I wouldn't use it if it didn't work. ;)

I can see how you would think that but if you saw it work in real life, you'd be convinced. I wouldn't use it if it didn't work. ;)
Oh, I believe you when you say it works. I am just looking at it in three other aspects. Your really not saving any fuel and all your doing is speeding up the priming time by maybe 20 seconds. Then the saftey factor of having the outside of the stove burning your wick to speed up the priming.

You're right about not saving fuel overall. The "saved fuel" is the fuel that's in the resevoir. You're not burning fuel from the main source to prime so you can get a longer overall burn time off of one fill. That's what I meant to say.

I haven't had one fall off yet and I use a pot of similar diameter to your. If you look carefully at the bottom of this stove you'll see a base which increases stability: http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g294/jasonklass/supercat.jpg

This base leaves a "lip" on the underside that kind of digs into the ground.

What's the bottom base made out of.... what can top is it?

What's the bottom base made out of.... what can top is it?

I cut the top off of another can (same kind the stove is made from) and just slip the stove into the ring. It fits very snugly.

Looks like my new fav alchy stove is the SuperCat. :D

Simple, Lite, and works great...

in an endless quest to make water boil as quickly and efficiently as possible... the cat stove is way simple, but not too efficient (compared to something like sgt rock's ion stove, for example).
.

I have 3 supercat and 3 ion stoves and have used and tested all of them to some extent.(why three? I measure once and cut twice:banana )

All things equal for both stoves, optimum conditions, same amount of fuel 1/2 ounce denatured alcohol.

Both stoves will boil 2 cups of water.

The "Supercat" 4 1/2 min. and the flame goes out.

The "Ion" 10 min. and the flame goes out.

`1/2 ounce of fuel is 1/2 ounce of fuel.

Seeker and Two Speed, please explain how it is you see that the "Ion" is more efficient than the "Supercat"

JasonKlass "At altitude or in the cold the wick makes all the difference in the world and saves fuel."
In my opinion this is when the wick on the outside of the burner is helpful. Don't feel its necessary in warm weather.

I love my SuperCat stove and I have made it with all different kinds of cans...(correction my hubby drilled the holes for me) from the standard cat food to the tiny Fancy Feast size and up to the larger can of coffee.
The concept / instructions work for all of them. :)
Well not on a Altoids can hee hee

zelph,

got your PM. thanks for the heads up... sometimes i don't keep following a thread.

the best answer i can come up with is that I can't get 2 cups of water to boil with a half ounce of fuel in field conditions with the super cat stoves i've built. flame burns out before i get a boil. 3/4 oz works fine though. mind you, i use an MSR Titan kettle, which is smaller than other pots i've use. i never bothered testing the cat stove on them because i'm not going to use a bigger pot. if i'm cooking for more than 2, i'll be using my whisperlite and a walmart grease pot or blacklite 1.5l pot.

anyway, the Titan Kettle's bottom is a bit smaller than the flame pattern of the cat stove. i've tried messing with the hole pattern to see if i could tighten it up, but haven't had much success. a lot of the flame still goes up the sides. not a total loss, but enough to make it not work as well as the Ion, which has a really small flame pattern.

now, with 1 cup of water, it (the super cat) works fine, and since i'm mostly cooking just for me, on weekend trips, the efficiency is less an issue, and i tend to alternate between the super cat and the ion, depending on how i feel. both good stoves.