Is there an easier way to get the label off of an aluminum can. I made a penny stove last night and spent half an hour sanding. Well I used Sunkist cans and it also removed some aluminum maybe making the wall even thinner thinner than they already are. I was just wondering if there was a trick to remove this label besides sanding a cut up price of can.
Sorry label, In a bad speller.
Footslogger
05-26-2006, 08:35
Is there an easier way to get the label off of an aluminum can. I made a penny stove last night and spent half an hour sanding. Well I used Sunkist cans and it also removed some aluminum maybe making the wall even thinner thinner than they already are. I was just wondering if there was a trick to remove this label besides sanding a cut up price of can.
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Have never tried it myself but my first thought would be "Stripease" ...the same stuff you smear on wood to lift old paint and varnish.
'Slogger
use really fine steel wool. won't 'eat' as much aluminum, but takes the paint right off.
Why bother to take paint off?
Are you asking about the paint, or is a paper label glued on? If paint, do as Seeker said, grade #0 or #00 steel wool from a paint or hardware store. This will shine it up real nice as well. If it is glue from a paper label try firing the stove up. That might burn off the glue.
Fiddler it is the paint. I will try the steel wool and see how that goes. I was hoping to not have to do all the rubbing. I would guess it is better to take paint off before I cut the can right. E-Z I guess its the obsessive compulsiveness in me that has to have nice, shinny and clean.
Fiddler it is the paint. I will try the steel wool and see how that goes. I was hoping to not have to do all the rubbing. I would guess it is better to take paint off before I cut the can right. E-Z I guess its the obsessive compulsiveness in me that has to have nice, shinny and clean.
Make the stove first, then use the steel wool to remove the paint. Much less likely to mash the can this way. It only takes 5-10 minutes to shine the stove to a chrome appearance. A bag of #0 or #00 only costs a couple of dollars. It will polish brass and some other metals too.
jasonklass
05-26-2006, 19:59
I use fine or extra-fine sandpaper first to get the majority of it off then follow up with extra-fine steel wool. I haven't found anything easier. Seems to me that no matter what it's going to take a bit of effort but the finished product looks really cool.
Skidsteer
05-27-2006, 06:53
I use the wire brush side of a bench grinder(use a feather-light touch) after the stove is complete. It takes about 2-3 minutes. If I'm really proud of the stove I'll sometimes go over it again with some 300-400 grit sandpaper.
Shiraz-mataz
05-27-2006, 07:53
I've made a few stoves and tried a couple different ways to remove the painted on label. Sandpaper was too abrasive for my liking but I got the perfect finish by using ScotchBrite pads.
I'll tell you my trick for making the process really fast... Remove the paint BEFORE you open the can! That way you'll have a "hard" can from its internal pressure to work against. You can really grip the can tightly with whatever abrasive pad you choose and not have to worry about denting the aluminum. You only need to do this to the bottoms of two cans to make a stove - the whole sanding operation will take less than five minutes. Wetting the ScotchBrite (or sandpaper) makes it go even faster.
Why remove paint? To avoid toxic fumes produced when it burns.
How to remove paint/varnish easily? Wet/dry sand paper used wet - medium fine grit - about 320 - will take it off in no time. Sand before opening the can to avoid deforming it.