View Full Version : Silnylon sewing info ripstop also


zelph
12-24-2006, 17:53
Getting my machine ready for some sewing and started reading some notes on sewing ripstop and silnylon.

In my notes I read that Polyester ripstop fabric lasts longer in ultraviolet light. I don't recall anyone here mentioning the use of Polyester ripstop(only nylon) and giving info in regards to it. Anybody used it and can give personal experience with it?

This site gives excellent info on sewing (http://www.geocities.com/gengvall/sew/sew.html)ripstop and silnylon and also is the source of the indication that ripstop is made of polyester also. Make a copy of the info given on this site, it may come in handy for begginers and the pros.

Some of you were wondering what else you could make out of the material your are cashing in on at Wallyworlds. When not on the trails try flying a kite :banana Spend some quality time with the family.

Frolicking Dinosaurs
12-24-2006, 17:58
I've used regular woven polyester for several non-gear projects that would get a lot of solar exposure (like wind socks, flags and such) -- it is far more durable than nylon in this respect.

StarLyte
12-24-2006, 18:08
Thanks for the info.

A friend just sent me a nice size piece.

hammock engineer
12-25-2006, 11:25
In my notes I read that Polyester ripstop fabric lasts longer in ultraviolet light. I don't recall anyone here mentioning the use of Polyester ripstop(only nylon) and giving info in regards to it. Anybody used it and can give personal experience with it?

That's interesting. Can you post any links about this? I'm not doubting you, I just like to read the math behind things. I wonder how long it takes nylon to break down in the sun. I have used old tents that had a lot of years on them, but not a lot of nights. My tarp would be the biggest thing I would be worried about breaking down to so sun exposure. Everything else is usually under it or under me in the sun.

zelph
12-25-2006, 22:18
That's interesting. Can you post any links about this? I'm not doubting you, I just like to read the math behind things.


Of all people that I thought would have some info to share would be a hammock engineer:) How did you become an engineer? not that I doubt you are one:) just like to see the math behind you:banana


Here is a little info that I found today: Polyester versus Nylon:
Polyester is hydrophobic, meaning it does not absorb water. This means that when it is dyed, only the color of the dye dissolves into the fabric (not any water-base), making the dye permanent. NylonŽ possesses hydrophilic qualities (that is, it absorbs water). Its inability to repel water causes the fabric to swell and ultimately weakens the molecular structure. The dyestuffs used on nylonŽ tend to oxidize, a reaction which is catalyzed by light. The microscopic effects range from color fading to complete degradation of the polymer matrix. This is why the colors fade in nylon-lycraŽ swimsuits over time, but do not fade in polyester-lycraŽ swimsuits (Man-Made Fiber Yearbook, August 2000).

The above info comes from this site: (http://www.agonswim.com/fabrics/fabricInformationGuide.cfm) way down at the bottom of the page.

Frolicking Dinosaurs
12-26-2006, 06:00
::: anxiously awaiting sil-polyester ripstop to use in tent and tarp making :::

DrewNC2005
12-26-2006, 22:19
I scored 28 yds of silnylon at Wal-Mart earlier this fall and I am about to start sewing on it very soon. I bought some ripstop there today to practice sewing before I start on the silnylon. I immediately found out that nylon can be very slippery. My question is this: How do you keep silnylon folded as you sew? Do you use pins? tape? etc.?

I'm curious so any feedback is appreciated...

jesse
12-26-2006, 23:26
I use pins. Make sure all your pins are inside the seams.

hammock engineer
12-27-2006, 00:28
I didn't use pins at first. I was worried about ripping the material. I am finishing my second project pinning, non coated and DWR nylon. It is was better than not pinning. As ling as it is in the seams you shouldn't have any problems.

I have ironed my seams in the past with some success. It makes the finished product look a lot cleaner.

Frolicking Dinosaurs
12-27-2006, 06:27
I use a straight pin on the inside of the seam about every 5 - 6 ft and (don't laugh guys) a double prong curl clip (http://www.cachebeauty.com/000038020500051.main.jpg) every foot or so on long seams. These are available in women's hair accessory area of department / drug stores or in larger quantities from places like Sally's Beauty supplies.

hammock engineer
12-27-2006, 11:04
I use a straight pin on the inside of the seam about every 5 - 6 ft and (don't laugh guys) a double prong curl clip (http://www.cachebeauty.com/000038020500051.main.jpg) every foot or so on long seams. These are available in women's hair accessory area of department / drug stores or in larger quantities from places like Sally's Beauty supplies.

My Grandma gave me some of those to use before I wanted to use pins. Worked pretty well the couple times I used them.

DrewNC2005
12-27-2006, 12:11
Being new to sewing, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by putting the pins inside the seam. Do you mean putting it parallel to the seam you are sewing or perpendicular? A picture would be great if anyone has the time. I appreciate the feedback thus far.

jesse
12-27-2006, 13:08
I am also new to sewing, so I might not be using the correct terminology. By sewing inside the seam, I meant make sure your pin line is between the sewing line and the edge of the material.

Frolicking Dinosaurs
12-27-2006, 13:16
Picture of pin placement (http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b47/lowcarbscoop/sewing.jpg)

zelph
12-27-2006, 14:12
I scored 28 yds of silnylon at Wal-Mart earlier this fall and I am about to start sewing on it very soon. I bought some ripstop there today to practice sewing before I start on the silnylon. I immediately found out that nylon can be very slippery. My question is this: How do you keep silnylon folded as you sew? Do you use pins? tape? etc.?

I'm curious so any feedback is appreciated...


Here is a little info from the site that I linked to above:


Anchoring or stabilizing seams before sewing, holding the panels together:

Can use a Hot Tacker (http://www.geocities.com/gengvall/tool/tack.html) to spot weld together. (See Tools (http://www.geocities.com/gengvall/tool/tack.html) page for a discussion of kite making tools.)
Can hot cut panels together.
Seamstick or tape can work. Duct tape sometimes.
Use seamstick in areas where it won't show or where it can be removed later.
Dark colors will show thru lighter colors if seamstick is in between.
Other adhesives. Sprays or Smurf Snot (poster tack, keen tak, fun tak)
Water can work.
Straight pins are last resort.They bunch the fabric and put holes in the coating.

aroth87
12-27-2006, 14:25
Sorry for kind of threadjacking but I have a really quick question. Is there a 'right' and 'wrong' side on the 1.1 oz DWR ripstop from thru-hiker? I ask because I'm working on a Liberty Ridge shell and can't tell if there is one side that has the treatment and one that doesn't. A speedy response would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry zelph, although this threads has alsready helped me with the project.

Adam

hammock engineer
12-27-2006, 14:30
I don't think it maters. I just use the side that looks the best for my project as the outside. If the sil is coated right it should be completely through the material.

I have used both sides of my McCat tarp in the rain and have not noticed any difference.

I am pretty sure on this, but wait for someone else to chime in to make sure. I don't mind taking a chance on my projects but I don't want to tell you something to ruin yours.

Frolicking Dinosaurs
12-27-2006, 14:34
Adam, this may help (http://www.questoutfitters.com/tips_and_hints.htm#HOW%20TO%20TELL%20THE%20COATED% 20SIDE%20VS.%20THE%20UNC.%20SIDE%20OF%20THE%20FABR IC)

Frolicking Dinosaurs
12-27-2006, 14:36
With silnylon, there is no right or wrong side, but there is with DWR or Poly-coated nylon.

aroth87
12-27-2006, 14:38
Thanks for the quick replies. Now I can get to sewing... :)

Adam

DrewNC2005
12-27-2006, 14:40
Everyone...thanks! I've already completed a stuff sack and am about to start measuring for a tarp and poncho/tarp. I'll post the pictures when they're finished. Thanks again!

zelph
12-27-2006, 21:55
Adam, this may help (http://www.questoutfitters.com/tips_and_hints.htm#HOW%20TO%20TELL%20THE%20COATED% 20SIDE%20VS.%20THE%20UNC.%20SIDE%20OF%20THE%20FABR IC)

Good site there, lots of good info, thank you

Weldman
12-28-2006, 00:18
One more sewing tip- No one mention seamstress tape, it double sided tape use for hemming dresses. Work get when making flat fell seams, no pin holes.

Mike

Frolicking Dinosaurs
12-28-2006, 09:24
Weldman, were you able to get the seamstress tape to stick to silnylon? I tried some single-side interfacing on a project and it wouldn't stick, so I've never attempted to use the double-sided tape -- but it would be a fantastic way to hold things in place. I think I would still run at least one line of stitching because I've had that tape fail on dress hems in the past....

Weldman
12-29-2006, 13:32
Frolicking,

It work great on DWR but on Silnylon you have to press it down good for it to hold. On uncoated material is can get messy and tangled up. I use it mainly on DWR and Uncoated material. I make my own Silnlyon( silicone/ mineral mix).

BTW:
Nice tip on the plastic hair pins, have to raid my wife hair product bin to find some.

Mike