View Full Version : Martha Stewart Stove
While at Kmart today I took a liking to the Martha Stuart flour sifter. Price was 6.29. Made of stainless steel, mirror finish. It will make a good looking wood burner.
The size is 4 inches in diameter and 4 1/2 inches tall
Took it apart and cut some holes in it. It is going to be a single wall, passive burner.
It weighs in at 90 grams/2.89 ounces. as you see it. Still have to add a few pieces to support a pot. Nothing fancy, just 4 of something small. Will test burn it tomorrow with the same fuel that I used for the modified zip.
I'll keep you informed as I progress. Here are some photos.
Before the parts are removed (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood002.jpg)
All parts removed (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood004.jpg)
One of the screens reinserted (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood007.jpg)after being cut to allow air to pass
Holes cut at base (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood008.jpg)
Skidsteer 01-17-2007, 20:39 2.89 ozs?
Nice!
Chaco Taco 01-17-2007, 21:01 This is gonna be cool. Def post some pics when you are done.
Wow 2.89. One can only dream
sirbingo 01-18-2007, 09:35 What tool did you use to cut the square holes in the base.
What tool did you use to cut the square holes in the base.
I used a "Dremel" rotory hand tool with a diamond cutoff disc. You can skipp that part by raising the stove up off the ground with 4 of something of your choice to let air in.
Chewiegranola 01-18-2007, 10:30 I noticed you cut some air holes in the screen. Maybe a silly question but how does this improve air flow when there area holes already from the screen?
Now that is innovative thought. I'd like to hear how it works, too.
How are you going to feed it & keep it fed?
vipahman 01-18-2007, 10:47 While at Kmart today I took a liking to the Martha Stuart flour sifter. Price was 6.29. Made of stainless steel, mirror finish. It will make a good looking wood burner.
That looks good. Martha Stewart is going to have a hit product and she will not know why? :D
I noticed you cut some air holes in the screen. Maybe a silly question but how does this improve air flow when there area holes already from the screen?
The bigger the holes, the more air can pass through, less material to get in its way. I'm a firm believer in "never deny your stove oxygen" especially a wood burner.
Today 09:41highway
How are you going to feed it & keep it fed?Today 09:38highwayNow that is innovative thought. I'd like to hear how it works, too.
Fuel will be fed under the pot. It will be raised about 1 inch above rim of stove.
[quote]
vipahman. Martha Stewart is going to have a hit product and she will not know why? :D
Would'nt that be something, Kmart shelves cleared of flour sifters in one weeks time:D
icemanat95 01-18-2007, 12:24 I'm not sure you really wanted to cut out that screen like that. As I understand it, the fire will be built on that screen, correct? So the screen is going to carry the weight of the burning materials (and absorb a lot of heat)
One thing that happens when steel is repeatedly heated is that carbon migrates out of it. Carbon is what makes steel, steel rather than iron. Fairly quickly on, that screen is going to turn into iron wire, something substantially less strong than stainless steel screen. With so much of the wire cut away, the strength of the structure is already going to be badly compromised before you heat it You are going to end up replacing that screen a lot. You are also going to be dumping a lot of embers on the ground under the stove so be certain that you've got the ground cleared of combustibles.
I think in the long run, you'de be better leaving the full screen.
A couple additions before firing it up:
1. Added a fuel cell port on the side (fuel cell AKA StarLyte") to make it into a multifuel stove.
2. Used three thin quage,.005 stainless steel pot support tabs that are removable for storage. I know I said I was going to use four!!!!! I changed my mind:p
Just an interesting note here about the size of the burn chamber: The inside dimensions of the Martha are: 3 3/4 inches in diameter and 3 1/2 inches deep.
The dimensions of the Sierra zip are: 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches deep
icemanat95I'm not sure you really wanted to cut out that screen like that. As I understand it, the fire will be built on that screen, correct? So the screen is going to carry the weight of the burning materials (and absorb a lot of heat)
One thing that happens when steel is repeatedly heated is that carbon migrates out of it. Carbon is what makes steel, steel rather than iron. Fairly quickly on, that screen is going to turn into iron wire, something substantially less strong than stainless steel screen. With so much of the wire cut away, the strength of the structure is already going to be badly compromised before you heat it You are going to end up replacing that screen a lot. You are also going to be dumping a lot of embers on the ground under the stove so be certain that you've got the ground cleared of combustibles.
I think in the long run, you'de be better leaving the full screen.
The sifter has three screens in its original form. Replace as needed or use as is like you suggest. For me it's the more air the merrier.
Here are some photos of the fuel cell port. Make it to fit the size of your alky stoves. The StarLyte absorbs 1 ounce of fuel so there is no spilling while trying to insert it. I left a 1/2 inch tab attached to stove and port door to act as a hinge. At some point it will detach because of metal fatigue, I'll reattach at that time.
first photo (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood010.jpg)
second foto (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood011.jpg)
third photo (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood012.jpg)
These are photos of the pot supports on and off the stove.
On the pot (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood013.jpg)
off the pot (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood014.jpg)
jasonklass 01-18-2007, 19:14 Great idea Zelph! Please post pics of it buring when you have a chance.
Dances with Mice 01-18-2007, 19:19 These are photos of the pot supports on and off the stove.So what if you were to cut slots below the top rim instead? Slots like you have on the bottom.
So what if you were to cut slots below the top rim instead? Slots like you have on the bottom.
That would take away from fuel capacity and draft. I found out the pot supports should be higher to allow more air flow. I charged the stove (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood015.jpg)in the same manner as the Zzip and same quantity and weight.
After two min. into the burn I put the pot on. Smokin!!!!! for the next 3 min (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood016.jpg)just like you see in the photo.At that point I lifted the pot an inch or so and swhoosh. At that point it burned just fine, I let it be while I tried franticly to turn the exhaust fan on, it came on and cleared the greenhouse in short order.:sun
The 2 cups of water boiled in eight min. When it reached boiling I removed the pot with the cast aluminum spring loaded gripper (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood.jpg)that you see in the photo. There was a good amount of fuel left in chamber. The three pot supports remained stable, will make three more only a tad taller. My next test burn will be tomorrow. Same amount of fuel, will let it burn for awhile longer before the pot is put on.
We're going to see 2 cups of water boiled with less smoke and only one filling of the chamber. Not bad for a single wall hobo stove.
Wait till you see this stove modified with a turbocharger ramjet etc. etc. It's a little more sophisticated than a blow tube.;)
fuel left in burn chamber (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood018.jpg) after boil
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So what if you were to cut slots below the top rim instead? Slots like you have on the bottom.
Got to thinking about that, kinda kept pokin at me. I was going to increase the height of the pot supports, but instead I cut 3 slots 2 inches long (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood019.jpg)spaced equaly around to allow more air to flow. Thanks Dances with Mice!!!!! It was not Instead but Along With. Made all the difference in the world. Never deny your wood stove oxygen!!!!!!!More Is Better
After 2 min into burn (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood020.jpg)flames started to appear
After 2.5 min (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood021.jpg)
Going onto 3 min (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood022.jpg)
Burned so hot and fast it used up (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood023.jpg)most fuel and began a decline so I sarted adding tounge depressors thru newly formed 2 in. slots at the top. They worked great. The charge of wood was not the same as yesterday, no big clothespins or the 2 pcs of 7/8 dowels. I was able to see how this little hobo drafts and looks while burning so I changed tactics.
I cut up some real wood, (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood025.jpg) seasoned, nice and dry, crisp when broken. What you see in the burn chamber in this photo was lit and when smoke stopped I added more fuel to level of stove top and then put the pot on.
Approaching 8 min (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood026.jpg)the water temp was over the 200 degree mark and was starting to steam (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood027.jpg)then boiled at 8 min. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood028.jpg) and boiled for a space of time. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood030.jpg)
The last photo shows the color of the stove after 6 burn tests (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood031.jpg)and shows it was 30 degrees when last three tests were completed.
I have a bunch more photos that were taken but not used for these posts. I have in the works my own web site to post all the details of the cutting, dimensions etc. In the works means on paper:p It'll be a place for sharing, showing and telling. Those of you that make stoves have a fairly good idea of how this one is made just by viewing the photos. Hope you have as much fun making yours as I had making mine:banana
This little hobo will stand tall next to the commercial ones. Spread the word, Martha Stewart Rocks when it comes to sifters
Final weight: 88 grams 2.83 ounces
Hammock Hanger 01-19-2007, 17:13 Per Marths, NOw that's a good thing
Dances with Mice 01-19-2007, 18:47 Thanks Dances with Mice!!!!! It was not Instead but Along With. Made all the difference in the world. Never deny your wood stove oxygen!!!!!!!More Is BetterNo, thank you for recognizing the potential to modify a common object then sharing with us both the testing and evolution of your design.
Today I was doing an inventory of scientific apparatti I needed to load into a Hertz mini-van and drive to Corinth MS this Sunday and thinking about your stove while I was doing that kept me teetering on the right side of sanity. You've already found that cutting the slots would not decrease the burn chamber area. Having raised pot supports and the top slots certainly does create a powerful chimney effect. You've created a stove with more than enough power to accomplish your mission (boil two cups of water). Can you sacrifice efficiency of operation for efficiency of design? Or have the pot supports for use when more power is needed - to melt snow or boil a gallon of water, say?
I was just trying to urge you to have as few detachable (breakable & losable) parts as possible.
See, for my work next week in the thriving metropolis of Corinth MS I'm carrying a small tabletop's worth of testing equipment but a mini-van full of backup and replacement parts in case something doesn't work. It's a one-time only, now or never kinda event and I can't take any risks so I've got backups to backups. That's not a luxury backpackers can afford, so please continue to look for ways to simplify.
Can you sacrifice efficiency of operation for efficiency of design? Or have the pot supports for use when more power is needed - to melt snow or boil a gallon of water, say?
I was just trying to urge you to have as few detachable (breakable & losable) parts as possible.
See, for my work next week in the thriving metropolis of Corinth MS I'm carrying a small tabletop's worth of testing equipment but a mini-van full of backup and replacement parts in case something doesn't work. It's a one-time only, now or never kinda event and I can't take any risks so I've got backups to backups. That's not a luxury backpackers can afford, so please continue to look for ways to simplify.
Will take this little hobo one step further and put aside the detachable parts and give it a go without them. Thanks for the interest and glad to help keep you on the right side of insanity. This stove stuff helps me stay on the right side also.
Final cost of the stove is $6.29
Frolicking Dinosaurs 01-20-2007, 07:20 Nice design - It looks somewhat like the old hobo stove we used to make from 1 lb coffee cans when I was in college (back when they actually were 1 lb cans :D). We used a a can opener that punched a trianglar hole to make the air holes (before removing the bottom of the can with a regular can opener). Then we punched four holes in the side about 2/3 of the way to the bottom and inserted pieces of coat hanger wire. We then added a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth cut to fit inside the coffee can. Pot supports varied - some were similar to yours. Others simply cut 1/2" wide slots lengthwise beginning about 1" below the upper rim down to about the middle of the can. They left about 1" of metal between the slots. Others fashioned supports from hardware cloth (some used these to 'grill' food as well as support a pot.)
Dances with Mice 01-20-2007, 08:12 Nice design - It looks somewhat like the old hobo stove we used to make from 1 lb coffee cans when I was in college (back when they actually were 1 lb cans). (... and back when they were made out of metal...)
[quote=Dances with Mice;306279]
I was just trying to urge you to have as few detachable (breakable & losable) parts as possible.
Thanks for the urgeing,we all need that, and when urged upon we should ponder and if it is right, do it!!!!!!
I put it to a test this 24 degree morning, brrrrrr.
Made 2 test burns. 1st was without photos 2nd was with photos.
The first test went well. After 3 min. warm up the pot was put on and fuel was fed as necessary to keep it goin nicely. Boiled in 7 1/2 min. after pot was put on.
Second test went without a boil because of photo taking. While taking photos my attention to feeding fuel was neglected and the fire lost its momentum and so I just let it run its course. The stove works fine without the added pot supports.
Keep your eye on the clock as the photos progress.
Photo one shows some flame (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood032.jpg)starting to show
Photo two a little more (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood033.jpg)
Photo three (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood034.jpg)and a little more
Photo four shows the pot on (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood037.jpg)with flames still showing
Photo five shows flames coming out the 2 inch slots (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthawood038.jpg)without having the additional detached pot supports.
The circumfrence of the stove is 12 inches. Makes an easy division of 12 increments of 1 inch each for the bottom holes. Make 6 holes on the bottom.
For the top make 3 holes that are 2 inches long by 1 inch high.
If you don't have a Dremel tool you can use a Whitney type hole punch to nibble out the metal so that it comes close to the above dimensions.
To remove the bottom of the sifter you'll need a hacksaw/dremel
To get an idea of the strength of this stove, next time you're in Kmart or Walmart squeeze the top rim of the flour sifter. After all!!!!! we blow through the fabric at Walmart, why not squeeze the sifter also :banana :banana
Frolicking Dinosaurs: They left about 1" of metal between the slots. Others fashioned supports from hardware cloth (some used these to 'grill' food as well as support a pot.)
This spring I'm going to roast some small game using a spit mounted on the top of this stove. The movie "Never Cry Wolf" gives some recipes.:D
Martha has a friend. He will soon become modified to perform for martha. He will do the cooking.(freezer bag,no dishes) :banana
Working on a cold air supply for them. I created a fan blade from an aluminum disc, JB welded it to the shaft of a $2.00 high tech engraving tool that operated on 2 AA batteries, removed one of them to add slide switch at end of handle. Have other ideas on the drawing board for motors and batteries to use. Will post when available.
Grate is made of stainless steel, made in Sweden. Purchased at local thrift shop for $2.00.
Photo one (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthaandfriend013.jpg)
Photo two (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthaandfriend012.jpg)
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Purchased some new muffin fans, lap top computer coolers. Little fans but put out a lot of air for their size. They are of the brushless type. They don't create a blast furnace just the right amount to get the fuel started and maintain a constant air flow to maintain a hot fire.
Modified one to fit into a stainless steel tube. I cut the mounting holes off.
Tube is made of .003 stainless full hard.
Fan is 3 inches away from stove, heat has no effect on it. Fiberglass cloth sleeve will protect wires.
A 1 inch wide strip of .003 stainless is to cover all but one hole at base of stove to close off holes to direct all fan blown air in upward direction, fits on inside of stove. Can be removed easily to use stove without air assist fan.
The tube, fan and hole cover weigh a total of 15 grams/.529 ounce. They fit inside stove for storage.
The 6 volt battery pack weighs 35 grams/1.234 ounce and is a 1300 MAH capacity. Fan is rated at 0.12A Battery pack available at Radio Shack
Total weight of stove and air assist kit combined is 98.5 grams/3.47 ounces
Photo one (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthastewart001.jpg)
Photo two (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthastewart002.jpg)
Photo three (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/marthastewart004.jpg)
Skidsteer 02-07-2007, 17:26 How much of a pain was it to get the harmonics right on your fan blade?
Very nice, by the way!
How much of a pain was it to get the harmonics right on your fan blade?
Very nice, by the way!
I was surprised how easy it was to get the blades shaped. When I cut along the layout lines with a pair of scissors the aluminum curled up naturally into the shape of shallow pitched blade. All I had to to was tweek them a little upwards and there they were.
I used the 1 inch hole punched out of the Ion top as the blank to layout the blades.
I have too many stoves!!!!!
The Martha Stewart will be offered for sale this Thursday afternoon. It will be put on an auction block, Watch For It. Don't be outbid :banana
4eyedbuzzard 02-08-2007, 11:57 I have too many stoves!!!!!
The Martha Stewart will be offered for sale this Thursday afternoon. It will be put on an auction block, Watch For It. Don't be outbid
Martha Stewart is a registered trademark. Her attorneys will be in contact with you shortly regarding two items:
1) Trademark infringement - unauthorized use of likeness and/or name.:-?
2) Producing a Martha Stewart product without trimming it in chintz.:-? :-? :eek:
Martha Stewart is a registered trademark. Her attorneys will be in contact with you shortly regarding two items:
1) Trademark infringement - unauthorized use of likeness and/or name.
2) Producing a Martha Stewart product without trimming it in chintz.:-? :-? :eek:
As of this post it is no longer the Martha Stewart is is the "Martha Stixx Stove" burns stixx and alcohol. :banana
We have a bidder, Whoooooo Hooooooo
Martha will be relocating. I'm on my way to recovery :banana :banana :banana
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