Never thought I'd have a sewing tip to offer, but here's two of them.

First one is that for some seams, I was able to use paperclips instead of pins for holding fabric together. Not every time, of course, and sometimes I'd only use them to get a seam into alignment and then pin it, but worth passing along. Where I could use it instead of pins, it left no holes, of course, but please remember that you can't sew right over them - you've got to remove them as you go.

Second tip is that basting tape really works. I recently used it on a large boat project. On the G4 pack I just made, I only used it in a few places that were small, such as strap ends. Didn't want to use it for very much because even though it's not heavy, it does have mass.

The stuff is just thin double-sided tape. I got it from www/sailrite.com.

cool, i just made my first stuff sack tonight!

Good tips. I have been using pins with good results. I have also used some old lady hair pins (no offense to any old ladies here, I call them that b/c my grandma gave them to me). I'll try the paperclips when I get around to a quilt.

Another tip is use the lines already in the ripstop fabric when making cuts. They are already there and they are prefectly straight. I just lightly put a line next to it with a sharpy. No more trying to line up a 9' or 10' straight edge using a yard stick.

Paper clips do work well. I would also suggest binder clips (the small er the better). They work really well on slippery and/or waterproof fabrics.

Good tips, thanks. I am getting ready to start my first couple of homemade gear projects. My wife's the sewer here, so this is something of a change (and a challenge!) I'm starting with stuff sacks, then modifying a tarp I already own, then making a bivy sack from materials I got from thru-hiker.com. The top fabric in particular is very slippery, so I'm going to try the paperclips and the binder clips.

Good tips, thanks. I am getting ready to start my first couple of homemade gear projects. My wife's the sewer here, so this is something of a change (and a challenge!) I'm starting with stuff sacks, then modifying a tarp I already own, then making a bivy sack from materials I got from thru-hiker.com. The top fabric in particular is very slippery, so I'm going to try the paperclips and the binder clips.


Here is something more that may help. If the material is DWR or uncoated ripstop, heat seal the edges so the material will not fray. I just use a lighter. You do not need to do that with sil.

Also one requirement is that you post pics of your projects. I'm interested to see how the bivy sack turns out.

HE,

I was going to use a felled seam on the raw edges to prevent fraying. I am concerned that running a lighter along the edge of .9oz fabric would leave me with a puddle of melted nylon. Any comments? --Thanks.

--Ken

I have only used 1.1 oz. What works for me is using the grill lighters, I think they are easier to use. I hold the material above the flame and let the rising heat melt it. I have caught the nylon on fire when I used the flame. I can usually get away with having the flame about 4 inches or so below the nylon.

Try it on a scrap piece and see. I double fold the most of my seams anyways. You might be able to get by without, but I do not want to be the one to tell you.

I've heard that some coated nylons are extremely flammable. Haven't tried lighting them myself.... but please be careful.

I have used a small soldering iron to heat-seal some fabrics, and that works and is controllable. Sometimes boring is good; give it a try.

Some time ago I tried to see which foods would make the best emergency fire starters. No surprise here, it was the oily, greasy ones. Basically look for foods with the highest calories per ounce - those seemed to work best. So don't heat-seal the fabrics when you're munching on the chips.

I tried the soldering iron thing the last time, and all I got were large, jagged holes in the fabric. But the edges were sealed! :D

I've been playing with the sewing machine, trying to teach myself some skills. It's hard -- I have a whole new respect for the cottage gear guys doing this in their basements every night.

I tried the soldering iron thing the last time, and all I got were large, jagged holes in the fabric. But the edges were sealed! :D


Use a wood burner instead...I posted this on another thread a while back:

1.Standard electric wood burner available at hobby stores, Wal-marts, Target etc. $7-$12 range.
2.Metal straightedge.
3.Tempered glass (I use a recycled glass door from the front of a stereo cabinet) about 20” X 18”. If it is at least as long as your straightedge its big enough.
-Mark edge to be cut.
-Lay material flat on glass
-Align straightedge with marked edge to be cut to hold fabric in place.
-With pre-heated wood burner trace fabric along straightedge in a smooth intentional motion.
It should separate cleanly with a “cauterized” edge. Different weights of nylon and differences in how hot the wood burner are will affect how the fabric separates. With a couple of practice cuts first, it won’t be long before you get the feel for the speed needed to make a clean cut.
I have cut a tarp and other projects made of “melt-able” fabrics and once mastered saves time and holds up better than a finished seam.