I'm getting ready to sew up my quilt (talked about in Designing a Quilt for Two) and am not sure about what to do with the edges of my fabric. Both the top and bottom of the quilt are Momentum90 (http://thru-hiker.com/MaterialDetail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=MG117&subcat=Ripstop) from thru-hiker.com. It an extremely light fabric, noticibly more than the 1.1 silnylon I also bought. I am a bit worried about the edges fraying, how can I prevent that? Does the lighter trick work, or is that only with nylons? I tested some threads from the edges (haven't actually unrolled the fabric yet, dont know if I'm ready for that) and they melted together quickly. Does it really matter since I will be sewing all the edges into the quilt? How much of a seam allowance do I actually need?

How do I sew together the edges of the quilt which include all the baffels and everything? Should I not sew the baffels into the edge? It seems as if they would create huge lumbs where down could possibly escape. If not should I make the baffels slightly shorter than the quilt (width wise).

Also, just out of curriosity, is there any difference between grey and white down? I got three bags from speer that are grey and one from thru-hiker.com which was white. I know theres not any performance difference, and I'm not worried about it, but I had just always thought of down as white.

Thankyou
Pink

I have not made a quilt yet, but on the nylon and poly fabrics I used I heat sealed the ends with a lighter, then double rolled the seams. That has held up fine in my hammocks.

I would thank that you are going to want to close off the baffles somehow. I think that would be sewing them into the edges. Not sure though.

Post pics and tips when you are done please.

As far as sealing the edges, I don't think you will need to do it because you are going to sew the edges to each other then turn it right-side-out aren't you?

I have never worked with down but I think that the color may be different because it came from a different breed of goose. At least that's what I read somewhere. Not all down is white.

And finally if you don't close the baffles off on the ends, won't the down be able to work its way out the end of the baffle?

you can sew the baffles to the edges. if you don't, the down will be able to move--maybe not much, but it can. you'll have to fold the baffles in on themselves, but it's okay, the stuff isn't that thick.

the heat sealing i didn't do and have not had a problem yet, but when i make another, i will seal them. has anyone tried to use the zigzag scissors to prevent fraying. i heard that those work, but i haven't tried them.

just remember to take your time and be very, very patient.

Geese come in colors so down comes in colors.... and you must sew the baffles shut all the way around so they will keep the down in place.

As for sealing the fabric edges - you might try using a wood burning tool to cut the baffles instead of sissors - it seals the edges. See a description in this thread: http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14374

Thanks for the recomendations.

I've decided to fold over the edges about a quarter of an inch, sew it, then repeat so that the edges are inside a pocket and won't be able to fray. This will also create prettier edges that could probably withstand more abuse. Not that I will be abusing the quilt at all, this fabric is way to light for that.

I have also decided to sew the baffels into the edges in a Z pattern so they won't make as much bulk that could lead to loosing down. I'm thinking of cutting them about an eigth of an inch shorter so they don't poke out of the edge of the quilt. I'm so beyond excited!

I have looked into the woodcuting stuff before, but its really not practical for me at this time. I don't have ANY of the required materials (strait edge, glass, or cutter) and don't have the space to store them. I currently live in a 16'x24' cabin with three people and four cats. We don't have a spare inch. And, in two weeks Brandon and I are having to pack up all our stuff and store it in a storage unit, and are trying to get the smallest unit possible. I just dont have the space or spare money. Mabey someday....

Thankyou,
Pink

I had a problem today when I got ready to sew. I had ment to post it earlier but had forgotten too.

One side of my Momentum90 is coated and shinny while the other is not.

Which side faces out (away from down)?

Thanks
Pink

Double check with AYCE from thru-hiker. But on DWR ripstop the shinny side is the side that has the DWR coating on it. That is the side I would put out. The other side does not have the waterproof coating all the way through.

The Momentum90 stuff might be different.

There is a quick test for fabric coated on one side - put a piece of the shiny fabric against another piece of the shiny side and rub together - do the same for the non-shiny side. The side that rubs together more easily is the uncoated side. You want the coated side to be on the outside of the quilt.

Thankyou for all your help. I'm starting to actually sew the quilt today :)

Pink

I just called up the guy from thru-hiker.com and found out that the Momentum90 fabric should be sewn with the coating on the inside. My mother was the only other person to suggest that, so I just wanted to make sure. Glad I called! Thanks for all the suggestions though.

Thanks
Pink

Wow - really glad you called them! This is the first fabric I've seen where the DWR coating is used on the inside.

Momentum: Yeah, the calendered (hot-ironed), shiny side goes inside. The DWR is actually on the non-shiny side. It is a treatment, not a coating. Calendering does several things. It reduces wind penetration, increases down-proofness, and keeps the material from pulling out-of-square.

This might be a little late to help, but on the baffles I would double roll the ends that I sew length wise onto the shell material. That makes 3 layers of netting that meet the shell. That adds some length and weight, but adds a lot of life a duriblity to the quilt.

I haven't made one yet, but I read that in a Jacksrbetter post from Pan. They know a thing or 2 about quilts.

You caught me in time, but just barely. I actually just finished up doing all the edge sewing and adding the wings to the bottom peice of fabric. I was just sitting down for a quick break before measuring the baffels. Everything is coming together really nicely. I had the same idea with the triple rolling of the fabric on the edges of the quilt. I figured that it should add a fair amount of stregnth to all the seams holding the quilt together.

The only problems I forsee is the fact that I only have a yard of netting. I need to make 11 baffels from it. After recalculating how much down I have vrs. the actual dimensions of my quilt (58"x73") I have enough down to stuff my quilt to 2.5" with a considerable (about 15% overstuff). I have talked to one of the Jacks and plan to make the baffels about 2.25" high. This would prevent the down from moving around as much. Since I have 6" between baffels there will still be plenty of room for the down to puff up fully. I will attempt to triple roll the netting, but I think a double is all that I will be capable of. I will try it though.

And thanks for the explination about the material Spock. The more I hear about and use this material the more I like it. I have found it extremely easy to sew with, and it seems really tough for how light it is.

Excited!
Pink

You'll have to show me your work if I run into you on the trail.

Although you don't necessarily NEED to do it ... using a handheld wood burner ($7 at Wally World) works great to "seal" the edges from fraying. It's like a hot knife cutting butta. I use one to cut all my rip-stop material. I can't wait to see pics!!

... I checked Deerleg's thread, and although the system he describes sounds great, you can easily "freehand" the cut with a wood burner and a little patience. Its great for making small stuff sacks, etc. plus your thumb won't go numb holding a lighter to the material!!