View Full Version : Isle Royale Ntl. Park
2009ThruHiker
03-05-2007, 23:44
Anyone visited Isle Royale National PArk? I'm thinking about a weeklong there for my next weeklong trip. Any input appreciated.
MedicineMan
03-06-2007, 00:26
http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2339864470084634827yNzEwk
We shuttled over from Grand Marais,MN it was almost 3 hours...nice compared to around 8hr from Copper Harbor MI. The ride over was smooth. We began a 5 day hike from Washington Harbor and it was just after 'the season', meaning the NP office on the island was closed, so it was self-check in. We did the Feldman Loop and in a word it was fantastic. I dont have to tell you that Isle Royale NP is special, one of the least visited NPs, a scientific petri dish for wolf-moose interaction and with history going back to some ancient times (copper was mined there by Indians long ago)...when you get shuttled over think about paddling a birch canoe 23 miles in Lake Superior! The picture I linked too found us walking by the cove and discovering 2 firemen/fishermen who were sitting out some serious water on the lake...they asked if we were in a hurry and we said no. An hour later we were provided a feast of deep fried lake trout, it melted in the mouth...after that we had a big climb and on top of the ridge I spooked 2 moose doing the deed---it was the rut and I was warned just before getting off the boat with my backpack that this was no BULLWINKLE! The fishermen were the only two people we saw in the 5 days of hiking, I dont know if it is the sheer beauty of the place, its remoteness, the footprints of wolves and the near brush with a bull moose, but it is one of my most treasured trips. We choose mid-September to avoid the bugs and the people but the NP does regulate how many can be there at any given time.
Depending on how fast you walk consider doing the length of the island...we wanted down time each day just to soak up the smells and views and only did 10-12 miles a day. The hiking is not hard per AT standards but it is rock,bog,marsh and open ridges. There will be no climbs anywhere near what you've experienced or will experience on the AT.
The boat ride back was a horror story or an exciting ride depending on your view of a 40 foot long aluminum boat that at 20 feet all completely dissapears in the swells...it took almost twice as long to get back because the captain would throttle down after quickly turning into a wave and water would be seen 360...one hiker wrapped her hands/arms around a center pole and held on for life. The first mate came through and I asked if the boat could handle this----he said the boat could handle much more than the passengers! Just remember the water temp out in the lake is 39F and your survival time is measured in minutes---the good thing is that if you do drown your body will probably never decay, at those temps the flesh is turned into a type of cheese and there are really no bacteria at depth to eat it :)
You know, ice water mansions!
We did the backpack on I.R. after 6 days of paddling in Voyageurs NP..the north really is a different place. Enjoy!
The Weasel
03-06-2007, 01:55
I've beem to Isle Royale 5 times, and I think its one of the best national parks in the lower 48 for a lot of reasons (ask if you need me to tell). I'll be glad to answer any question you have, but here are some strong suggestions:
1) Reserve your route NOW. IRNP is space controlled, and stealth/backcountry camping is NOT allowed, and often ticketed.
2) Consider leaving from Houghton/Hancock by float plane. Fast, exciting, gives you a visual of the island as you approach Rock Harbor.
3) Strongly consider doing the Greenstone Ridge Trail from Rock Harbor to Washington. It's about 50 miles, challenging but not miserable, or one of the parallel routes at the east end up to Chickenbone Lake, along the shore. Scenic, and the further west you get, the less crowded and the more "moosey".
4) Strongly consider renting a canoe at Rock Harbor and going west to the interior lakes, or the islands by Rock Harbor Ranger HQ, then mixing hiking and canoeing. You will see wilderness that others never see, as wild as anything in the far west. Wilder.
5) Campsites are generally very good. Some have screened Adirondack shelters, 1st come/served. Worth it: The mosquito is the IRNP National Bird. All have access to good water (Lake Superior water is often drunk untreated) and have flat tent sites, usually stone (staking can be hard). No major pest/coon problems but all sites have "camp foxes" (cute little buggers but hell on food bags) so you will need to fly your food.
Lucky you. FANTASTIC place.
The Weasel
Frolicking Dinosaurs
03-06-2007, 06:48
The Weasel has given you excellent advice regarding tactics for seeking the most wildlife and wilderness.
I will re-state the need for for protection from 'skeeters - they are numerous and huge.
Been there 5 times.
Agree with most everything already posted.
Sept. is an excellent time to visit, few people, few rangers, few bugs, MANY Thimbleberries! Depending on how late, the Moose are starting their rutting season, so become somewhat more aggressive. Have ended up treed by a moose for about 45 minutes one year.
Canoeing/Hiking combined highly recommended for the reasons given. Use caution if you actually paddle portions of Lake Superior, some of the shoreline is very rocky, with no options for landing if the lake decides to act up on you. Generally speaking, any adventure crossing open Lake Superior waters should not be attempted in an open boat.
Exciting ferry rides are common in Sept.
Don't cut your timeing too close. In the five trips I've made, I have been delayed returning to the mainland twice (each time for one day) because of poor weather. Have some extra food/fuel/and time available at the end of your trip. The first time had to help out a scout troop that cut their fuel supply too close. The two stores on the island close down shortly after Labor Day.
Minong Ridge trail is also fantastic but more rugged than the other trails on the island. In the past, believe it still is, maintained as a fire trail.
HIGHLY recommended - Have a great time. Any other questions, ask.
Lyle
The Weasel
03-06-2007, 11:31
More about IRNP for you, 2009, and anyone else interested:
1) Isle Royale is remote. There is no cell phone coverage, and the last time I was there the only - I mean ONLY - telephone that was available to public use is in Rock Harbor. ONE telephone. ONE. Ranger stations are often a 1-2 day hike away, and do not have any kind of "access" out of the Park other than at Washington and Rock Harbor, by ferry (air at RH). Ferries are dependent on Lake Superior, which is essentially an ocean with a bad temper; storms are frequent and ferries and air are frequently cancelled due to weather. This is NOT a "oopsie" park where you can say, "Let's go back and get more ramen and call home."
2) Liquid Fuel, the last time I was there, cannot be transported to the island. There is limited supply in Rock Harbor, and a tiny store in Washingto, that is not adequate for any real supply. You should absolutely plan one "extra day" in terms of food and fuel because of weather and trail issues.
3) Don't plan on seeing wolves. You MAY hear them at night, and occasionally you will see wolf scat or, less often, scavenged moose remains.
4) Look for copper mines (usually small pits in the rock). Copper from Isle Royale was traded by Native Americans in the area and found as far south as central Mexico in pre-Columbian times.
5) I forgot to mention black flies/deer flies. Isle Royale breeds them, and sends the small ones to Maine, where they are known to eat small dogs. If you go during black/deer fly season, I recommend shirts with long sleeves, pants (convertibles) with full leg covering, and head nets. As for clothing generally, this is a northern park surrounded by a cold lake (water temps in the summer rarely exceed 55 - don't plan on much swimming in Superior - interior lakes are muddy and have leeches), so plan for cool nights. Some nights drop into the 30s in the summer. Check before you go.
6) If you decide to rent a canoe in Rock Harbor, make your reservation as soon as possible. I really recommend a combo hike/canoe trip. It's 2 days from Rock Harbor to Malone Bay, which takes you into Siskiwit Lake where you can visit Ryan Island (no camping), which is "the largest island in the largest lake in the largest island in the largest lake in the world."
The Weasel
The Weasel
03-06-2007, 11:33
Been there 5 times.
Agree with most everything already posted.
Sept. is an excellent time to visit, few people, few rangers, few bugs, MANY Thimbleberries!
mmmmmmmm Thimbleberries.
Thimbleberries are to vine berries what champagne is to Two Buck Chuck.
They look like a squatty red raspberry, but have an incredibly sweet flavor and a sharp "tingle" on your tongue. Oh my, how I miss thimbleberries.
mmmmmmmm Thimbleberries.
Sept can be cold. Plan clothing accordingly.
The Weasel
The Weasel
03-06-2007, 11:35
Minong Trail is fully open, with allowed camping in campsites. Equivalent to AT trails in difficulty, far less used. Great views of Lake Superior. Highly recommended.
The Weasel
Just wanted to add:
We took our own canoes. The Isle Royal Queen (out of Copper Harbor) transported them for $20 round trip if my memory serves me right. Not too expensive. We had too large of party to hike together that year, so took the canoes. We split, with half canoeing to McCargoe Cove the other half hiking. We then met and switched, which worked out really well for us.
Check out the Minong Mine site if you get in that area. Not your typical tourist attraction, no guided tours, but interesting to wander around and explore on your own. Especially if you like history.
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The Weasel
03-06-2007, 17:13
Lyle -
You did almost what we did the one time I took my Scouts to IRNP: We rented canoes tho, at Rock Harbor (easier for some and price was competitive) and canoed into Lake Siskiwit and left canoes at Malone Bay for our other crew that started (hiking) at Wash Harbor. Worked well.
Lake Siskiwit is incredible. Next trip (gonna happen even tho I live in CA now) will be spent basing at Malone and canoeing Siskiwit and nearby lakes to bushwhack.
Fishing ain't bad, either! (Mmmmm....Northern Pickerel. MMMMMM!)
The Weasel
Just wanted to add:
We took our own canoes. The Isle Royal Queen (out of Copper Harbor) transported them for $20 round trip if my memory serves me right. Not too expensive. We had too large of party to hike together that year, so took the canoes. We split, with half canoeing to McCargoe Cove the other half hiking. We then met and switched, which worked out really well for us.
Check out the Minong Mine site if you get in that area. Not your typical tourist attraction, no guided tours, but interesting to wander around and explore on your own. Especially if you like history.
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oh yeah i used to spent a lot of my free time up there. bring the deet!!!! you will need it. and yes choose your route early. great place to kayak... i miss living in those neck of the woods..:(
2009ThruHiker
03-06-2007, 22:48
[quote=The Weasel;333906]
1) Reserve your route NOW. IRNP is space controlled, and stealth/backcountry camping is NOT allowed, and often ticketed.
I THOUGHT ON THEIR WEBSITE YOU CANNOT RESERVE CAMPING UNLESS YOU ARE A LARGE GROUP...JUST My wife and I are going. Suggestions/Comments???
Also, Thanks all for the great wealth of info. Big help.
The Weasel
03-06-2007, 23:43
I think that's a change on reservations; you're right. But hit the Ranger Stations IMMEDIATELY on arrival (let your partner deal with gear to get it to the Ranger Station while you RUN to the head of the line, unless you do it on board a ferry) to try to nail your preferred itinerary. Makes life easier.
A few things they don't mention clearly, by the way, before you get there:
1) Latrines/Outhouses are at every campground, all very good.
2) Check for campsites with shelters and try to get them if possible. Most are screened. Trust me on this: You wil be VERY glad for screened shelters.
3) Make sure you bring GOOD raingear. IRNP is essentially a rain forest, and not a warm one. You won't need it much, but when you need it, YOU NEED IT.
4) You MUST plan a "weather day". You WILL lose one day to weather, very possibly at the end of the trip. This is particularly essential if you are planning on hiking/canoeing out to one of the boat shuttle stops, and taking the shuttle ferry back. If you're not from Mich/Minn, you don't realize how nasty Lake Superior weather can be. But DO consider using the shuttle. Just realize that 1 time out of maybe 10 it won't show up on the day you first want it to.
5) I went back and looked at my photos and journals, and can't over-emphasize the perfection of taking the seaplane, links for which are on the Park site. This service is a true "bush plane" service, in an antique Sikorsky float plane (yes, they make helicopters. AIRPLANES? OH MY GOD!!!) It is a tiny 4 seater (the pilot gets to pick which one he sits in), and the takeoff is from the river at Houghton. You go to about 5000 feet, and see Isle Royale in the distance. If you've done map study in advance, it gives you a great chance to check the island out as you approach it, and pick out landmarks. Landing is in the fjord next to Rock Harbor, and is a total rush, as is stepping out of the plane. The return is equally over the top (literally), but these are probably the best, safest, least-talking pilots you'll ever meet. (Yes, you can carry a knife. No you can't joke. They leave their sense of humor at the dock and get it when they return.) So just for the fun value, it's worth it. It also gives you essentially 2 more hiking days, esp if you reserve an early flight (about 1 ever 2 hrs), since it's about a 30 min flight compared with 5-8 hours of drive/ferry time from Houghton or Copper Harbor. That means if you leave at 9, your cleared from the Ranger Station and on your way by 11 or 12, even if you fly to Windigo (you can mix and match...arrive at Rock Harbor, leave from Windigo). VERY worth it.
The Weasel
3) Make sure you bring GOOD raingear. IRNP is essentially a rain forest, and not a warm one. You won't need it much, but when you need it, YOU NEED IT.
The Weasel
You may well have some very nice weather too. I distinctly remember one climb up to the Greenstone ridge from Daisey Farm in 90* temps in September. Found a creek to lay in just to cool off! Also plenty of days laying out on the rocks during breaks. Take shorts and tshirts too. But Weasel is right, the weather can be very unpredictable and changeable - be prepared for extremes.
Also regarding the shelters. Unfortunately the shelter etiquette is a bit different on the Island than on the AT. They are first come, first served, but the do not assume that there is always room for one more. Usually it is one party/shelter, even in inclement weather. Most campsites with shelters will have multiple shelters, but not all. For instance, Little Todd Harbor only has one shelter - if someone is already using it, you will be tenting. You cannot count on having one.
The Weasel
03-07-2007, 13:44
Also regarding the shelters. Unfortunately the shelter etiquette is a bit different on the Island than on the AT. They are first come, first served, but the do not assume that there is always room for one more. Usually it is one party/shelter, even in inclement weather. Most campsites with shelters will have multiple shelters, but not all. For instance, Little Todd Harbor only has one shelter - if someone is already using it, you will be tenting. You cannot count on having one.
VERY true, but it doesn't hurt to ask (nicely). As for weather, "all of the above". You can count on it being very hot, very dry, very wet, very windy, very gentle.....and very, VERY beautiful.
The Weasel
The Weasel
03-07-2007, 14:46
One thing, tho, try to spend as much time on the west side of the island (west of, say, Chickenbone east) either Greenstone, southern trails or Minong, since there are fewer daytrippers and shorttermers, and you get a better remote feeling.
The Weasel
MedicineMan
03-08-2007, 00:31
http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2118180100084634827IVKfBz
Lots of information along with a web board dedicated to the island. It's a great place to get specific questions answered.
http://www.isleroyale.info/cgi-local/teemz/teemz.cgi
The Weasel
03-12-2007, 14:04
Got a nice PM from 2009 about 'when to go', but I'll expand it here in light of some further thinking:
My favorite time to go to IRNP is late July, which is when I've taken my Scouts. There are several reasons:
- Northern Lake Superior has about a 45-day true "summer" when it's not cold at night (usually). mid July to Mid August covers most of that, and if I'm going for 10 days, that means leaving in late July
- Lake weather is generally best at that time, and that's a major factor, since getting TO and getting FROM the Isle is very weather dependent, even from Minnesota. If going by floatplane, that means even good weather with high winds (above 30 mph or so) can make transport hard, so the better the weather, the more time I have hiking, and not holed up on a dock for a day or so.
- Vegetation is the most lush then. Fall comes early to the North, and IRNP is "greenest" then. It's also fairly hot, but the near-constant leaf canopy makes that OK, too.
- I keep saying it, but thimbleberries are the high point of a trip, and they crest their season in late July to early August, and birds won't have totally eaten them, so you can fill up pretty easily when you find a patch.
- While that's the most popular time, if you do non-traditional things (lesser used trails, such as Feldtman Lake, Minong, kayaking/canoeing), or get/stay west of Chickenbone East, there aren't crowds.
Hope I'm not repeating myself much.
The Weasel