Pest
03-08-2007, 01:59
http://bp1.blogger.com/_n-H9SSVlHFs/Re-v-8bptbI/AAAAAAAAAOE/AB3uxsNTOfU/s1600-h/cyclonestoveattempt.jpg
I tried to make a cyclone stove today but I did not measure anything or use a template. The stove boils water but it does not make a cyclone. Maybe I will used the template and try again. I have nothing that I can puch perfect sized holes into steel with though.
http://bp2.blogger.com/_n-H9SSVlHFs/Re-v_MbptcI/AAAAAAAAAOM/8-ujGxlvM-o/s1600-h/weddingwick.jpg
Also today I decided to try making a wicking stove. The stove below boiled two cups of water using 1 US fluid ounce = 2 US tablespoons of denatured alcohol in 13 minutes and then continued to burn for another 3 minutes. Testing conditions were
42 °F / 6 °C
Light Rain
Humidity: 89%
Wind: 9 mph / 15 km/h / 4.1 m/s from the SW
I suppose the tap water I used was about 45 degrees F.
The stove stand is not actually part of the stove and can be removed. I've been trying to make a stove that works well with a Heineken can pot. Tea Light "stoves" do not hold enough fuel but they do direct the flame to a small spot. Many stoves send flames shooting up the side of the narrow can pot and do not work well. My new wicking stove holds enough fuel and thanks to the wick directs the flame to a small spot that does not overlap the sides of my narrow can pot.
I fill this stove with fuel by taking the top off pouring in the 2 Tablespoons of fuel that it holds and then putting the top back on. I light the top of the wick. The wick is fiberglass. The first several times I ran this stove it got too hot and flames started shooting out the side and the top popped up a bit. I kept adding more and more holes to the top of the stove until it went through an entire boil / burn cycle without shooting flames up the sides.
I want to run it several more times to be sure that it will burn correctly. When it shoots flames out the sides it uses up the fuel too fast and the water does not boil.
I tried to make a cyclone stove today but I did not measure anything or use a template. The stove boils water but it does not make a cyclone. Maybe I will used the template and try again. I have nothing that I can puch perfect sized holes into steel with though.
http://bp2.blogger.com/_n-H9SSVlHFs/Re-v_MbptcI/AAAAAAAAAOM/8-ujGxlvM-o/s1600-h/weddingwick.jpg
Also today I decided to try making a wicking stove. The stove below boiled two cups of water using 1 US fluid ounce = 2 US tablespoons of denatured alcohol in 13 minutes and then continued to burn for another 3 minutes. Testing conditions were
42 °F / 6 °C
Light Rain
Humidity: 89%
Wind: 9 mph / 15 km/h / 4.1 m/s from the SW
I suppose the tap water I used was about 45 degrees F.
The stove stand is not actually part of the stove and can be removed. I've been trying to make a stove that works well with a Heineken can pot. Tea Light "stoves" do not hold enough fuel but they do direct the flame to a small spot. Many stoves send flames shooting up the side of the narrow can pot and do not work well. My new wicking stove holds enough fuel and thanks to the wick directs the flame to a small spot that does not overlap the sides of my narrow can pot.
I fill this stove with fuel by taking the top off pouring in the 2 Tablespoons of fuel that it holds and then putting the top back on. I light the top of the wick. The wick is fiberglass. The first several times I ran this stove it got too hot and flames started shooting out the side and the top popped up a bit. I kept adding more and more holes to the top of the stove until it went through an entire boil / burn cycle without shooting flames up the sides.
I want to run it several more times to be sure that it will burn correctly. When it shoots flames out the sides it uses up the fuel too fast and the water does not boil.