View Full Version : Cumberland Island Natl Seashore
Greentick18d
06-24-2008, 11:48
Just moved to the area. Anyone hike Cumberland Island? THe NPS site alleges 50mi of trails. I am looking at doing an overnighter from the Seacamp ferry landing to the primitive campsite at Brickhill Bluff and back. Anyone with personal experience? Recommendations? Thanks!
Bulldawg
06-24-2008, 12:01
For sure make a report on this if you do it. I have been thinking about doing this trip with my kids!
Footslogger
06-24-2008, 12:02
Been a while ...but yeah, I've done a lot of backpacking on Cumberland Island. Best place (at least back then) was the northern tip of the island. Deer are fairly abundant and run free up there and are not (or were not then) too afraid of humans. We stopped for a break one afternoon and were eating some peanut butter and an apple and a deer literally walked right up to our feet and sniffed around. Pitched it the apple and that was ONE happy deer. The southern end of the island is more highly visited. There are the ruins of the old Vanderbilt mansion and small ponies running wild. The island is covered with armadillo's, which if you've never been around them before, can sound pretty loud in the underbrush. Good news is that they are harmless. Not sure how many there are but on several ocassions we spotted some wild turkeys on Cumberland too.
All in all it's a great adventure. Bugs, mainly mosquitos, can be pretty bad at times. Lot of folks get off the ferry and walk over to the east side of the island and collect shells or sharks teeth that wash ashore.
Enjoy ...
'Slogger
Bulldawg
06-24-2008, 12:16
What kind if any reservations do you have to make? Are there trees for hammockers? Are there "designated" campsites? I am starting to lean towards this as the late summer family vacation, although the wife might not go for it, but who needs her anyway, on a hike!
BlackCloud
06-24-2008, 12:20
Go to www.nps.gov (http://www.nps.gov) for all the info you need.
Cumberland Island NS is awesome. I think it is the Southeast Region's crown jewel. I've only been there on a day trip, but wow. Can't wait to bike the island - hiking I think might be a little slow & boring here, as it's quite monotonous.
I wouldn't go till winter however b/c of the bugs.....
max patch
06-24-2008, 12:29
Its been a while, but we've both dayhiked and camped on the island.
There are designated campsites.
You need reservations for both camping and the ferry.
The ranger guided tour of the old mansion is interesting.
Some people hike to the other side of the island and collect shells, etc.
There is a very expensive inn on the island.
Its a nice trip. If it wasn't so far away we'd do it more often
Main downside are the bugs.
Greentick18d
06-24-2008, 12:43
Thanks for the info so far.
If I go, it will be in the next 2 weeks or so with the expectation of heat and bugs. The evenings here are surprisingly pleasant temperature-wise and there is usually a breeze. I will be testing out that Sawyer controlled release DEET and using permethrin of course.
'Slogger AFA armadillos, I was rushed by 3 the other night while taking out the trash... I stomped my foot and they realized which way the food chain went and it was a**holes and elbows as they beat a hasty retreat - possum on the half shell baby!:D
I miss being closer to mountains and having some terrain (it is F-L-A-T here!) but sunrise/set can be pretty dang beautiful over the marsh.
I'll post pics and a report if we go. Definately planning to go this fall/winter too. The website Blackcloud listed gives you all the info you need.
My only other experience was a unauthorized boat infil of the southern tip for a couple of hours. A whole different world then it's southern neighbor Amelia where my wife grew up (when not growing up in Alaska, go figure).
john gault
06-24-2008, 12:48
http://www.thebackpacker.com/trailtalk/thread/6756,-1.php
Camped there several years ago. Pristine beach, wild horses in the distance, deer & turkey nearby, skeeters close enough to exchange bodily fluids. Shower & john at campground. Vanderbilt family cemetery on one of the trails. Might see some porpoise from the boat.
Two Speed
06-24-2008, 13:03
I understand the fishing's pretty good out there, too. I'd really like to get a kayaking trip worked up for Cumberland Island sometime. I've fished out of a sea kayak down in Florida a few times, and those suckers are the stealth boat from Hell as far as the fish are concerned. Based on the way they took the bait they didn't have any idea a boat was in the area.
I live about 45 min from there and go all the time. Bugs are never a problem. Ticks at yankee paradise other than that never any problem. Brick hill Bluff on an overnighter is a lot. Depends on your condition I guess. By the time you get there and go through their little talk it is 11:00 am and Brickhill is about 12-14 miles. You have to have reservations. Weekend in the next 2 weeks I doubt are available. During the week in back country usually available. I would recommend Stafford Beach campground to get a feel of the place. If you have any questions ask and I will answer. Footslogger it is the Carnegie Mansion not vanderbuilt.
Clyde
Oh yeah there are trees everywhere hammock is not a problem.
Clyde
Footslogger
06-24-2008, 17:37
Footslogger it is the Carnegie Mansion not vanderbuilt.
Clyde
==========================
Man ...as many times as I've been there you'd think I would know that. Coulda sworn it was the Vanderbuilt clan's old place. Oh well ...
Hey, aren't you supposed to be hiking ??
'Slogger
john gault
06-24-2008, 17:39
==========================
Man ...as many times as I've been there you'd think I would know that. Coulda sworn it was the Vanderbuilt clan's old place. Oh well ...
Hey, aren't you supposed to be hiking ??
'Slogger
I think most things Vanderbilt are in or near Ashville, NC.
Greentick18d
06-24-2008, 18:10
I live about 45 min from there and go all the time....Clyde
Thanks for the scoop. The composition/age of the group is still in flux. A reasonable goal will be set. Walking at 1100 still leaves over 9hrs of light, and it's flat(relative) so we'll see.
What are the water sources listed on the map?
My wife recalls the trails being fairly shaded. True? Would you recommend sunblock?
Under "Backcountry camping" it says sites are assigned on arrival. Does this mean you can't choose which you go to? http://www.nps.gov/cuis/planyourvisit/outdooractivities.htm
Hey Greentick18d here is another thread that has a few great pictures and some more info:http://http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12740&highlight=Cumberland
I really enjoyed Cumberland Island and would love to return to explore it some more. Remember: the racoons are absolutly incorrigable theives who will ravage your food if you turn your back. My buddy lost 4 days of bread when it was left unattended for just a few minutes.
Footslogger
06-24-2008, 18:31
Remember: the racoons are absolutly incorrigable theives who will ravage your food if you turn your back. My buddy lost 4 days of bread when it was left unattended for just a few minutes.
==================================
So true. They have (or at least had) screened boxes in the campsites up on posts to put your food in. But one night we heard some blood curdling sreaming and it was a pesky racoon trying to break into the food box.
Like Ed said ...don't leave ANYTHING edible unattended in the campsites.
'Slogger
briarpatch
06-24-2008, 18:34
Its a great trip in Jan-Feb. We run a GATC trip there every January.
Johnny Swank
06-24-2008, 18:37
Been a while ...but yeah, I've done a lot of backpacking on Cumberland Island. Best place (at least back then) was the northern tip of the island. Deer are fairly abundant and run free up there and are not (or were not then) too afraid of humans. We stopped for a break one afternoon and were eating some peanut butter and an apple and a deer literally walked right up to our feet and sniffed around. Pitched it the apple and that was ONE happy deer. The southern end of the island is more highly visited. There are the ruins of the old Vanderbilt mansion and small ponies running wild. The island is covered with armadillo's, which if you've never been around them before, can sound pretty loud in the underbrush. Good news is that they are harmless. Not sure how many there are but on several ocassions we spotted some wild turkeys on Cumberland too.
All in all it's a great adventure. Bugs, mainly mosquitos, can be pretty bad at times. Lot of folks get off the ferry and walk over to the east side of the island and collect shells or sharks teeth that wash ashore.
Enjoy ...
'Slogger
What he said. Led a trip down there a couple of years ago, and heading back in September. Cool place, but man that sand hiking is hard!
Nearly Normal
06-24-2008, 18:46
Very nice. My wife and I day tripped it.
The boat over can be booked up, check before you go.
The camp sites at Sea camp have cages for your food. I'm told they are booked well in advance. There is more primitive camping also.
Bugs, Bugs, Bugs in warm weather.
Plan it.
The aquifer comes to the surface in many places but still needs treatment.
You won't find many more better examples of Southern Barrier Sea Island.
The live oaks really shine in this park.
Just moved to the area. Anyone hike Cumberland Island? THe NPS site alleges 50mi of trails. I am looking at doing an overnighter from the Seacamp ferry landing to the primitive campsite at Brickhill Bluff and back. Anyone with personal experience? Recommendations? Thanks!
Next to the C&O Canal this is my favorite National Park.
I hiked the island when I was in the Park Service while I was in training at Glynco, GA.
Definitely make ferry and campground reservations.
Take bug spray.
The main road is a beautiful hike. This runs most of the length of the Park. I remember the road being shaded by live oaks. The road itself is made of crushed seashells.
There are beautiful sand dunes and extremely wide beaches.
I think there used to be wild boar on the island and the Park Service allows hunting by permit for deer, wild turkey, etc.
Light Horse Harry Lee, Robert E. Lee's father, died on Cumberland Island returning from the West Indies to visit his Revolutionary War friend, Nathaniel Greene who owned a plantaion there.
I can't remember if the Ranger Station is seasonal so bring water just in case. I believe they sell soft drinks etc there. Call ahead.
Have fun!
http://www.nps.gov/cuis/
Bulldawg
06-24-2008, 22:40
My daughter, Number One, is stoked about this possible trip. Someone mentioned a beach campground as one of the backcountry sites. I assume the sites are back off the beach.
My daughter, Number One, is stoked about this possible trip. Someone mentioned a beach campground as one of the backcountry sites. I assume the sites are back off the beach.They are all at least 100 yards from the natural dunes. It's still awesome and a great experience. Sleep on the beach, set your tent and home in the designated spot. Best of both worlds!
There is water at all the campgrounds. It is pumped from wells. I never treated my water but they tell you to. Stafford Beach campsite is 3 and a half miles from sea camp. You walk acrossed the dunes to get to the beach. Bathrooms, fire rings and about 8 sites. The area you camp (Stafford,Yankee,Brickhill)is assigned the site you pick except for sea camp.
Clyde
Two Speed
06-25-2008, 09:22
My daughter, Number One, is stoked about this possible trip. Someone mentioned a beach campground as one of the backcountry sites. I assume the sites are back off the beach.When are you thinking about going?
brickhill is awsome site....great for hanging and watching dolphins eat during sunset.....the best.... but u need to apply for a backcountry permit at least 6 months in advance. they only issue few permits.
Bulldawg
06-25-2008, 21:58
brickhill is awsome site....great for hanging and watching dolphins eat during sunset.....the best.... but u need to apply for a backcountry permit at least 6 months in advance. they only issue few permits.
Really, I was thinking about a weekday trip towards the first of August, before school goes back. I might ought to make my mind up pretty quick!
Really, I was thinking about a weekday trip towards the first of August, before school goes back. I might ought to make my mind up pretty quick!
yes you do. they are strict on the backcounty permits to sleep in any of their sites. but its worth it:) this will be my first yr not doing it. last yr i was there 3 times! your daughter will love it!:banana
Bring the bug spray and sun tan lotion. Its a great place. you'll love it!
The last time I was there you were only allowed to use flashlights with a red lense, on the beach. This is so the sea turtles will come to shore.
Its been a few years since I've been there and there we didn't see any soda machines. My wife, actually, caught a ferry back to shore and loaded up on tasty drinks and caught the returning ferry back to the island. It was at the end of July and very HOT.
Mrs Baggins
06-26-2008, 00:18
Just moved to the area. Anyone hike Cumberland Island? THe NPS site alleges 50mi of trails. I am looking at doing an overnighter from the Seacamp ferry landing to the primitive campsite at Brickhill Bluff and back. Anyone with personal experience? Recommendations? Thanks!
Lived in St. Marys GA for 1 year (364 days toooooo long) April 1986 - April 1987. We did one trip out to Cumberland Island. My son was nearly kicked in the head by the wild horses (came literally out of nowhere at full gallop and sped down the trail we were on) and the sand gnats (those are NOT mosquitoes. Sand gnats will have you praying for hordes of mosquitoes to show up in their place) are in the billions. That is not the place for holistic home repellents - take the strongest DEET you can find and a very large bottle of Avon Skin So Soft. Sand gnats HATE Skin So Soft and not much else. You'll see big burly construction guys pouring bottles of it over their heads.
Greentick18d
06-26-2008, 01:36
Lived in St. Marys GA for 1 year (364 days toooooo long)....
I've been to Aiken... doesn't seem like much of a trade-up:rolleyes:
Of course, after 13yrs in the metro atlanta area this place is nice. Something about "rush hour" meaning that there is 5 cars in front of you at the red light. Still miss being closer to the mountains.
Thanks all, for the great info posted.
absolutely beautiful place! I've been there more than 15 times. se My photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/thompsonstudios/CumberlandIsland
Two Speed
06-26-2008, 07:18
Really, I was thinking about a weekday trip towards the first of August, before school goes back. I might ought to make my mind up pretty quick!Wow, don't think I can make that; kinda tearing the annual leave with a couple of other trips. We can talk about it at the WB dinner.
Hey 'Slogger! First, how're ya doing? Getting out?
Next, if you had a favorite time to go to Cumberland Island when would that be? Spring? Fall?
Wow, don't think I can make that; kinda tearing the annual leave with a couple of other trips. We can talk about it at the WB dinner.
Hey 'Slogger! First, how're ya doing? Getting out?
Next, if you had a favorite time to go to Cumberland Island when would that be? Spring? Fall?
i like going in late fall, winter. not too many people there.
Two Speed
06-26-2008, 10:39
How's the seafood that time of year, any recommendations on restaurants and got any idea if the fishing's any good?
FWIW there's a restaurant named "Mudcat Charlies" just outside of Darien. The shrimp wasn't anything out of the ordinary, but the she-crab soup was killer!
Fishing is always good. Even if you catch no fish, it was good fishing. Plus when a fisherman got home, he would never fib about the one that got away.
There is a resturant across the street from where the ferry leaves. I don't know if it was because we just got off the island, but their food was good. So was their drinks. That could also make the food better?
Mrs Baggins
06-26-2008, 11:32
I've been to Aiken... doesn't seem like much of a trade-up:rolleyes:
Of course, after 13yrs in the metro atlanta area this place is nice. Something about "rush hour" meaning that there is 5 cars in front of you at the red light. Still miss being closer to the mountains.
Thanks all, for the great info posted.
Believe me it's NOT a trade up. I despise it here and we are planning to go back north to Maryland next year. I never said Aiken was better. But St. Marys, when we lived there, was a true hell hole complete with paper mill right down town that covered the whole place in it's daily stench. Only the sand gnats seemed to thrive there.
The paper mill is gone. I have never been bothered by bugs on the island. There is nothing for sale on the island. Not even trash cans. Take what you will need. If you are going mid week to the back country you should be able reservations.
Clyde
You might run into a snag. Cumberland Island is on FIRE!!!!! Just seen it on the news.
Clyde
Greentick18d
06-27-2008, 02:06
It appears to affect an area that is closed to the public anyhow...
The trip, if if happens, will be midweek so hopefully last minute reservations will be no problem.
Greentick18d
07-04-2008, 02:34
It appears to affect an area that is closed to the public anyhow...
The trip, if if happens, will be midweek so hopefully last minute reservations will be no problem.
Oops, just a correction... the fire has caused closing of all the backcountry sites. The rep I talked to said that if there was a change that I could swap for one of those sites.
My group will now include an 8 yr old with minimal to no hiking experience. We will do Sea Camp (half mile walk from the ferry) and explore from there tho if Stafford Beach (3.5 from the ferry) opens up we may grab that.
Thanks all for the input...
Nearly Normal
07-04-2008, 02:50
Old town St Marys is great. Eat at Seagles, get the grouper sandwich, say hello to Cindy Dean in the bar for me.
Aiken SC is a piece of heaven. Beautiful Horse country.
As a matter of fact, all of South Carolina is wonderful.
Greentick18d
07-18-2008, 03:16
I posted a trip report in the Trip report forum and put pics in my gallery.
Many years ago, before the state of Georgia took it back through imminent (sp?) domain, I hunted deer there about every year and seined for pompano in the surf, near the rock jetty- when one could do both. The island is beautiful and I have walked a lot of it but not gone back since. That said, I have been toying with a sea kayak trip around it and surf fishing & camping along the beach . But, from reading this thread it looks like now the camping is illegal too, unless at established sites. "The times are they are a-changing", to quote Bob Dylan!
Greentick18d
07-18-2008, 11:13
Highway: tho restricted there are a couple of backcountry sites that are accessible by sea kayak from the looks of it. Stafford beach and Brickhill Bluff. You just have to reserve them. The jetty is still accessible too, they just recommend not going out on it because most folks don't understand how quick the tide can come in. They do a lottery for deer hunting I believe.
I think you are jumping to conclusions. The state of Georgia did not take anything by eminent domain. It is owned by the federal govt. It is a National Seashore not a state park. The hunting is done by lottery to maintain the resourse. You can get in your Kayak paddle to Brickhill bluff and sign in at the kyosk that is on the shore.
Clyde
I think you are jumping to conclusions. The state of Georgia did not take anything by eminent domain. It is owned by the federal govt. It is a National Seashore not a state park. The hunting is done by lottery to maintain the resourse. You can get in your Kayak paddle to Brickhill bluff and sign in at the kyosk that is on the shore.
Clyde
Regrettably, I am sad to say, it is you who are mistaken. I know some who have had their property taken over. And, it was on private property where I hunted which is no longer private. In fact, at one time all of the island was privately owned.
But thanks for the Brickhull Bluff info. I am not so sure where it is but I will obtain a marine chart and see if I can locate it. I wish the Florida circumnavigational paddling trail website charts went further N than the Fl-Ga border.:
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/gwt/paddling/saltwater.htm
The US Government currently controls a good bit of the island. The map I looked at seems to indicate that the National Seashore boundaries do not cover the entire island. Maybe Georgia controls land to the North or South of the boundary lines? I thought I read that there is still private property on the island.
There is still private property on the island. In the early 70's i think it was, folks got together and sold their land to the govt. to stop the developers. I will do a title search to make sure but I think eminent domain was not a factor. I will search this week and let ya know.
Clyde
Greentick18d
07-21-2008, 02:19
Hmmm.... I thought the Carnegie's (or their relatives) donated it. They owned like 90% of the island. I may be wrong...
There is still bits of private property. There is a house that abutts the property that the Dungeness ruins are on. They were working on their satellite dish when we were there. The shot in my gallery of the white horse is a private road that crosses the Parallel Trail. I believe it is the road from Greyfield to Little Greyfield beach. The north end of the island is private.
http://www.nps.gov/cuis/upload/IslandMap.pdf