View Full Version : IRELAND - Need Info
RITBlake
07-28-2008, 15:19
Last night I was flipping through some of my parents photos from a recent trip to Ireland. I can't get over green and rugged the back country looks.
I'm very interested in planning a backpacking trip going coast to coast, or tip to tip on Ireland.
Can anybody point me in the right direction? Do we know anyone who's done this? Route suggestions?
wilconow
07-28-2008, 16:14
About 5 years ago when I was brand new to hiking (and never have camped before in my life) I did an Ireland hiking trip through REI adventures... basically just an easy to mod. hike daily, stay at a B&B and then the guide drove us to somewhere else in the van
As for your questions, there did seem to be a fairly new system of trails that I think are interconnected.. they are called "Ways".. they seem to relate to counties, or maybe areas. I remember there was a Wicklow Way.. a bunch of others too that I can't remember the name of.. here's a link on wikipedia that unfortunately is just a list
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long-distance_trails_in_the_Republic_of_Ireland
Also here's photos of my trip
http://www.terrapinstats.com/ireland/ireland.html
I remember meeting a young kid from Michigan who was backpacking through the country.. he was by himself and had a big pack.
Dances with Mice
07-28-2008, 16:19
I went to Ireland for a couple of weeks two years ago and know I have to return.
Kerry Way (http://www.kerryway.net/)is a must-see. The trails in Ireland are called "Ways" and there are a lot of individual Ways. Most Ways are on the west coast where the Appalachian mountains rise out of Atlantic Ocean Gap and the terrain looks just like Maine would if only Maine had mild winters and somebody chopped down all the trees and filled the place full of sheep.
There's also Dingle Way (http://www.dingleway.net/) (...and they all love it when Americans make fun of their place names, do try that some night in a pub...), a bunch of other shorter trails all along the west coast and the longer Wicklow Way (http://www.wicklowway.com/) on the east side.
The West coast trails are convenient since most flights arrive at Galway, which is an airport not a trail. There is unfortuntely no connecting footpath tying all these Ways together. But Ireland has an outstanding national bus service making it fairly easy to travel up and down the coast from one trailhead town to another, or across Ireland to Wicklow.
Most of these don't have public camping areas, you instead hike village to village and stay in hostels or bed and breakfasts. You'll most likely spend nights in a local pub rather than sitting around a campfire. Tough life, but when in Rome do as the Romans.
I could easily kill a summer hiking Ireland.
fiddlehead
07-28-2008, 16:26
I hitchhiked around Ireland and Northern Ireland for a month about 15 years ago.
Great country. Lots of musicians, poets, partying people.
As for hiking, there were a few short hikes like that Kerry way that someone mentioned above that we did.
Mostly for sleeping out, we had tents along and mostly just asked whatever pub we were in if we could sleep in the backyard. They were all cool with that.
Yes it is very green. Because it rains a lot. And when you are walking in that "Green" it is very sponge like because it is very thick. They dig this thick green stuff up, build fences out of it and use it for fuel in the winter. We were even burning it in my zip stove!
Had my best memories in Donegal in the north and Cork in the south.
Cookerhiker
07-28-2008, 17:17
I spent 3 weeks in Ireland in April-May 2007. Some of my photos are on WB on this page (http://whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/browseimages.php?do=member&catid=member&imageuser=5065&page=10) and the previous one. The first half of the trip was a self-guided pub and music tour. The package included a rental car and lodging in various cities & villages around Ireland where we heard live music every night.
The second half of the trip was hiking the Dingle Way. After reviewing different outfitters who specialized in self-sufficient tours, we settled on Trek Inn Holidays. (http://www.trek-inn.com/) There were two reasons we chose them: (1) flexibility on the dates; we could start any day of the week whereas some outfitters limit you to certain days and (2) they were the only one whose package included packed lunch which gave us flexibility on where and when to eat. We could choose to eat overlooking the ocean on a nice grassy bluff. Also, one of the days was an island trip where we spent all day on Great Blaskett Island hiking and watching the seals.
I suggest you check on Trek Inn and other outfitters by googling "Ireland hiking." I suppose you can also go on your own but one advantage with these outfitters, you're slackpacking every day while your luggage is transported to the next inn.
RITBlake
07-29-2008, 01:51
As always thanks guys.
How would resupply work over there. We'd be looking to bounce around for 10-14 days and for obvious reasons wouldn't want to carry food for the entire duration.
Are there chances to resupply? Grocery stores like America?
How frequent are pubs and b&bs?
fiddlehead
07-29-2008, 02:39
Check out Lonely Planet guide (book or website) Tons of info. Tons of pubs. It's what the Irish people do: they go to the pub. Lots of Guinness.
Dances with Mice
07-29-2008, 07:14
As always thanks guys.
How would resupply work over there. We'd be looking to bounce around for 10-14 days and for obvious reasons wouldn't want to carry food for the entire duration.
Are there chances to resupply? Grocery stores like America?
How frequent are pubs and b&bs?No need to carry even 2 days worth of food. There are grocery stores like America, smaller towns will have mom'n'pop convenience stores. Along the Kerry Way, at least, all the towns were well supplied with B&B's since they're in a scenic area that draws tourists. Most B&B's will even pack a lunch for you if you ask.
Be aware that if they advertise a "Full Irish Breakfast" that means a mega-calorie feast of grilled and fried food. Also be advised that what they call "pudding" is like nothing made by Jello, it's kind of a sausage concoction with meat and whole grains.
There might be more sheep than pubs in Ireland. Maybe, but it'd be a close count. The DUI laws are zero tolerance. they cannont drink 1 beer then drive. That means there's a pub within walking distance of practically every house.
fiddlehead
07-29-2008, 07:23
I think that "pudding" is some form of cows blood.
You may want to consider Scotland as an option as well. The West Highland and Great Glen Ways are beautiful trails. I hiked both back to back a few years ago as an inn-to-inn type thing which included modest B&B's, a bunkhouse and hostel (both very nice). There is a booking service that will set it all up for you, according to your desired price point.
http://www.walkinginscotland.org/
The scenery there is more mountainous than Ireland. But I would love to hike the Ireland trails sometime :)
Sadly, wherever you go you'll have to deal with our terrible exchange rate. Be prepared for an expensive trip.
I think that "pudding" is some form of cows blood.
Yes, like black pudding. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_pudding
RITBlake
07-29-2008, 12:00
Once again thanks guys, this info is perfect.
Lucinda appreciate the link for the Scotland trail. I think that will be next on my list.
I should add that we are more interested in camping out then staying in B & B's
RITBlake
07-29-2008, 12:03
The second half of the trip was hiking the Dingle Way. After reviewing different outfitters who specialized in self-sufficient tours, we settled on Trek Inn Holidays. (http://www.trek-inn.com/) There were two reasons we chose them: (1) flexibility
CH, what are the benefits of going through a guide as opposed to going out on your own?
Cookerhiker
07-29-2008, 12:28
CH, what are the benefits of going through a guide as opposed to going out on your own?
Aside from the slackpacking aspect, you save some time in not having to shop for food or prepare food. The grocery stores in Ireland are not like big US supermarkets; they're small but you can usually get what you want depending on your food needs and desires. You don't have to deal with a stove. You know where you're going every night and can take your time getting there. The packages usually include transportation to and from the airport.
You could go on your own - it just takes more preparation time to obtain the study the maps, figure out the public transportation, make reservations at the B&Bs or chance that you can get in w/o a reservation. Camping? I'm not sure but much of the paths ("ways") are on private land. Ireland doesn't have the centuries-old tradition of rights-of-way like England & Scotland so the concept of paths through private lands is somewhat novel. You need to research about the camping. In short, it's probably less expensive to go without an outfitter, it just takes more time in planning to get the most out of your trip.
Time of year: I highly recommend April. Knowing Ireland receives a lot of rain, that may seem counterintuitive but summer is the much rainier season than spring. Go figure. With Ireland's northerly location, the days become lighter and longer fast; in turn, the extended daylight speeds the growth of spring flowers and shrubs. You saw my photos. Can you imagine scenes like those as far north in April in North America? Ireland's temperate climate is influenced by the Gulf Stream.
Even if you're not into traditional Irish music like I am, I encourage you to find it in a pub in Dublin or Killarney or Dingle or Galway. You'll be impressed by the fiddles & pipes & bohdran and the sheer energy of the performers. All the sessions are free - some are nothing more than jam sessions but very high quality at that.
The one area of Ireland that we didn't explore (next trip) is Donegal, the far northwestern county which features the highest sea cliffs in all of Europe and some wild country.
Make sure you spend a day on the Aran Islands - rent a bike and tour around.
Wow, I could go on forever. I want to go back!:)
wilconow
07-29-2008, 13:42
The islands are very special.. Dursey Island off the Beara Peninsula has only 6 permanent residents and these weird birds that do these incredible nosedives in the water. Aran is nice too but Dursey is much more quiet (I was only on the main Aran Island)
Also as much as I love trail runners, I wouldn't bring them there. it's quite muddy and sloshy through the bogs
fiddlehead
07-29-2008, 22:26
Northern Ireland is cool too.
I busk a lot and found that Belfast was my favorite city in Europe for busking. People in Ireland and Northern Ireland really seem to respect buskers as their society is full of musicians.
We never had a problem camping in pubs back yards.
Have fun.
RITBlake
07-29-2008, 23:42
Northern Ireland is cool too.
I busk a lot and found that Belfast was my favorite city in Europe for busking. People in Ireland and Northern Ireland really seem to respect buskers as their society is full of musicians.
We never had a problem camping in pubs back yards.
Have fun.
For several reasons, I'll be staying out of Northern Ireland.
Camping behind a pub sounds awesome! My parents had a great time. I'll post some pictures soon!
RITBlake
07-29-2008, 23:51
Some photos that have inspired this trip:
http://www.maine2georgia.com/ireland1.jpg
http://www.maine2georgia.com/ireland2.jpg
http://www.maine2georgia.com/ireland3.jpg
http://www.maine2georgia.com/ireland4.jpg
http://www.maine2georgia.com/ireland5.jpg
fiddlehead
07-30-2008, 03:16
Nice pics. I didn't think you could take that many pics and not see a pub in any of them. How old do you think those stone walls are?
Cookerhiker
07-30-2008, 13:13
The stone walls may be about 600, 700 years old, possibly older.
fiddlehead
07-31-2008, 01:13
I remember going to an island off the west coast of Ireland that was originally just rock. People throughout history put organic matter on that rock and now there are a few fields. But it is probably been 500 years or so in the making for a few fields perhaps 2 or 3 acres at the biggest.
Makes you wonder why and i am amazed at what men will do to expand their horizons.
Now wonder they drink like they do.
This is my fantasy hike -- 2 weeks of primitive camping in the Scottish highlands. Much of the trail is unmarked, so you have to be good with map and compass.
What could be better?
http://www.dlscouts.ie/capewrathtrail.html
Cookerhiker
08-01-2008, 22:38
This is my fantasy hike -- 2 weeks of primitive camping in the Scottish highlands. Much of the trail is unmarked, so you have to be good with map and compass.
What could be better?
http://www.dlscouts.ie/capewrathtrail.html
Not necessarily better but add to that tramping the Scottish islands including the Orkney's and Shetlands. I have this vision of wandering the Shetlands during the day and listening to fiddle music in a pub at night.
Dances with Mice
08-01-2008, 22:46
This is my fantasy hike -- 2 weeks of primitive camping in the Scottish highlands. Much of the trail is unmarked, so you have to be good with map and compass.
What could be better?
http://www.dlscouts.ie/capewrathtrail.html (http://www.dlscouts.ie/capewrathtrail.html) I'd never heard of that before. Very, very nice. Thanks!
fiddlehead
08-01-2008, 23:36
I did some hiking around Ben Nevis in northern Scotland.
Beautiful place. Don't wait too long, gets cold up there.
Are those the Cliffs of Moher? Our attempt to visit them was unsuccessful. It was so windy that pieces of gravel were being picked up by the wind and flung against the rental car. When my youngest son, aged 7 at the time, stepped out of the car, the wind knocked him to the ground. We decided that walking along the cliff edge would probably be unwise. So I never saw them.
When we drove to the coastal village we were going to stay in that night, waves were breaking over the coast road. Sea foam was blowing through town like tumbleweeds. It was wild.
In Northern Ireland, should you change your mind and choose to set foot into it, the Giant's Causeway is amazing. It's the geologic twin to Devil's Postpile.
Cookerhiker
08-02-2008, 10:24
The cliffs of Mohr:
4505
4506
From our April '07 trip. These photos were after returning from the Aran Islands. Also got some photos from the boat.