YELLOWSTONE - Need Help ASAP!

[RITBlake]

I just found out I'm heading to Salt Lake City w/ work in 2 weeks and with a few vacation days remaining I thought I would jet up to Yellowstone for a jaunt.

Anyone out there w/ experience in the park? What to see? Camping? Permits? Beard canister? Any trip ideas or suggestions would be great.

[DuctTape]

I only spent a couple days in the area on my bicycle, but you may want to look into hiking Grand Teton instead

[Montana Mac]

RITBlake
sent a PM

[fiddlehead]

Getting a permit will take some time.
I suggest going to Old Faithful where they have a backcountry permit office, get your permit, and head south on the CDT.
It is decent hiking. Nothing great compared to the Tetons or the Winds as there was a fire there in '88 or thereabouts and the trees are not too big.
If you head north instead, (from Old Faithful) you will have some great hot mud pots and springs for a while but packed with tourists and then it is only about a days hike and you are out of the park. Once out of the park on the northern end, the trail is not all that nice. On the southern end however, you would be in the Grov Ventre area which is much nicer.
Don't know about bear canisters if they are required or not.
I hear there's more griz activity now then when i was last there (2002)
You might want to search white blaze for some threads that were going on in that regard.
If you want an alternative, the Wind's are nice but also full of people and access is not easy. Teton's are nice but I don't have much experience to tell you about that.

The Gros Ventre area is very nice and has little to no people in there except horse trips and some 4 wheelers. Lots of elk in there.
Of course Yellowstone is loaded with Elk, bears, bison, deer, fish (try Shashone lake fishing, i caught about a 24" trout there back in '89)

Have fun.

[fiddlehead]

Getting a permit will take some time.
I suggest going to Old Faithful where they have a backcountry permit office, get your permit, and head south on the CDT.
It is decent hiking. Nothing great compared to the Tetons or the Winds as there was a fire there in '88 or thereabouts and the trees are not too big.
If you head north instead, (from Old Faithful) you will have some great hot mud pots and springs for a while but packed with tourists and then it is only about a days hike and you are out of the park. Once out of the park on the northern end, the trail is not all that nice. On the southern end however, you would be in the Grov Ventre area which is much nicer.
Don't know about bear canisters if they are required or not.
I hear there's more griz activity now then when i was last there (2002)
You might want to search white blaze for some threads that were going on in that regard.
If you want an alternative, the Wind's are nice but also full of people and access is not easy. Teton's are nice but I don't have much experience to tell you about that.

The Gros Ventre area is very nice and has little to no people in there except horse trips and some 4 wheelers. Lots of elk in there.
Of course Yellowstone is loaded with Elk, bears, bison, deer, fish (try Shashone lake fishing, i caught about a 24" trout there back in '89)

Have fun.

[fiddlehead]

Ya know, there's tons of good hiking around Salt Lake also.
Might save some "jetting" fees to stay close.

Hey, i swear i only clicked "Post reply" once (above) And it took about 3 minutes to show up???

[fiddlehead]

Ya know, there's tons of good hiking around Salt Lake also.
Might save some "jetting" fees to stay close.

Hey, i swear i only clicked "Post reply" once (above) And it took about 3 minutes to show up???

[fiddlehead]

Screwy things going on.

[RITBlake]

Hmm, I wasn't set on Yellowstone I just looked at a map and saw it was relatively close. I've been to Zion NP and Canyonlands so I thought I could explore Yellowstone but I'm intrigued by the Tetons. I'd be looking to do some type of 3-5 day loop OR end 2 end w/ hitch hike.

[Bearpaw]

Hmm, I wasn't set on Yellowstone I just looked at a map and saw it was relatively close. I've been to Zion NP and Canyonlands so I thought I could explore Yellowstone but I'm intrigued by the Tetons. I'd be looking to do some type of 3-5 day loop OR end 2 end w/ hitch hike.

Yellowstone is about 5-6 hours from SLC. Grand Tetons is about 4. I you hit Yellowstone, consider the Bechler River area this time of year. Great hike, and the water levels are not too high for reasonable fords. If you go with the Tetons, do the northern loop of the Teton High Route. Start at Jennie Lake, head south and west to the high country. Then take the northern loop back to Jennie Lake. You won't hit the main loop around the Grand, but you still hit incredible country, without the crowds of Yellowstone.

The other thought is to bag the idea of backpacking and just do the tourist thing at Yellowstone. Unlike most National Parks, you can stay satisfied and busy with just seeing the sights for 4 days, without ever really hitting the backcountry.

[Matteroo]

if you are down for a longer drive... but still want to explore somewhere fantastic, to the Northwest of SLC you can find the Wallowa Mnts, which are pretty incredible, but probably Wyoming offers the same landscapes, slightly taller mountains.. worth investigating for future trips if you're in SLC for a long time... only mentioning it cause we are living in oregon and went there this year.. : )

[Bearpaw]

I've been to the Wallowas, leading a trip leader training course for Whitman College. They really are gorgeous mountains, but you get similar arid mountain settings closer to SLC in Idaho in ranges like the Lemhis and Beaverheads.

Once you get into the higher mountains east into the Tetons, Absarokas, Bighorns, and Wind River Range, you really get a very different experience. this is because they are so much bigger they grab MUCH more precipitation from prevailing winds. They are much "wetter" and provide a different feel, at least to me.

The biggest plus to walking inside Grand Teton or Yellowstone NPs is the special stuff you have to share with the tourists there. Even if you have to share, the sights are pretty remarkable.

[OregonHiker]

The other thought is to bag the idea of backpacking and just do the tourist thing at Yellowstone. Unlike most National Parks, you can stay satisfied and busy with just seeing the sights for 4 days, without ever really hitting the backcountry.

Yhis is good advice. You could hava heck of a trip by just spending time in the Lamar Valley - Dunraven pass - Canyon (Wolves , bison and maybe grizzly bears) and the geyer areas around old faithful. I reccomend camping at Slough Creek.

[Tennessee Viking]

I just found out I'm heading to Salt Lake City w/ work in 2 weeks and with a few vacation days remaining I thought I would jet up to Yellowstone for a jaunt.

Anyone out there w/ experience in the park? What to see? Camping? Permits? Beard canister? Any trip ideas or suggestions would be great.
I did the tourist thing as teenager when visited Yellowstone. There is a great lodge with private cabins just outside of the park on the highway to Cody. Just before the East park entrance is a restaurant with pancakes measuring 2 feet across.

I guess its the tourist requirement to visit Old Faithful. The Canyon area is great if you like water. The geothermal spots are interesting and stinky.

If you plan to be off the roads. You will definitely expect to run into bears, wolves, moose, and buffalo.

Here is the link to backcountry camping/hiking in Yellowstone: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/backcountryhiking.htm

[MedicineMan]

We had to go in July but wanted to avoid the crowds and get the wilderness feel...bc permit at Old Faithful then kayaks from Snake River...then four days paddle camping on Yellowstone Lake (up and around the arm)--only saw 2 people in those 4 days backpacking way off in the distance.

[weasel and bunny]

Bear canisters are required in GTNP and can be picked up for free when you get your backcountry permit. Takes no more than 5 min. I assume the same is true in Yellowstone.
There are amazing trails in the Tetons. You can park at Jenny Lake and hitch to Death Canyon Trailhead and then head up to Teton Crest Trail. It may be getting a little late in the season however. I do know that the higher elevations of the trail have already seen a foot of snow. It may have melted though.

[Bearpaw]

Bear canisters are required in GTNP and can be picked up for free when you get your backcountry permit. Takes no more than 5 min. I assume the same is true in Yellowstone.

I know the bear cannister is a newer rule at Grand Teton, but as of 2006, Yellowstone still required backcountry campes to hand their food on the poles at campsites. It always me how much difference there was between the two parks which are only about 12 miles apart.

[Montana Mac]

Since the introduction of the wolves the elk population has been decimated. The Lamar Valley use to have major herds of elk - now you see one or two at a time (elk not herds).

The Lamar still has a good number of buffalo and is one of the best wolf watching areas (spotting scope recommended). It also contains the Lamar River, Soda Butte Creek and Pebble Creek, all good fishing.

Pebble Creek Campground is one of the lesser developed campgrounds so you get more "tenters" and less "hardsiders".

Slough (pronounced Slew) Creek is a very good fishery for cutthroats. Unfortunately rainbows are starting to populate the river. The Park Service wants the rainbows killed if they are caught in Slough above the gorge. Slough Creek campground is a popular campground. Also above the developed campground are "back country" campgrounds. Permits are required for the use of these. The permits are obtained from the back country office. They hold a percentage of the permits for "walk-ins" and the rest are by advanced reservation. To obtain a back country permit one needs to attend the "back country orientation" program. It is a fairly short session that covers the different regulations and bear encounters. I carry bear spray while in the back country. It is a personal choice but on one four-day trip we saw 9 grizzlies.

If you plan on hiking into the back country of Slough it is wide open meadows with very little shade and water sources are limited along the trail. The trail is actually a wagon road that is used by a private ranch just outside the northern boundary of the Park. Horse outfitters also use the road so you may have to side step some "meadow muffins"

The back country campsites are set up with a "bear pole" for hanging food so a bear canister is not required.

If you are planning on fishing in YNP there is a "no lead" law and hooks must be barbless or have the barbs crushed flat. Also the majority of the Park is catch and release. The Lamar River and Soda Butte Creek both parallel the road so access is very easy. Easy access also means the rivers get fished heavily. I have seen it almost shoulder to shoulder along the Lamar.

If you exit the Park through the Northeast entrance you will go into Cooke City that has a number of motels/lodges (Super 8 being one of them), restaurants, bars and two gas stations.

From Cooke City you can travel the Beartooth Highway which will close Oct 15th for the season. Sooner if there is major snow. It has already been closed on and off this year because of snow. The highway obtains an elevation of 10,934 feet and gives unbelievable views. An alternate route would be the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway which would take you from Cooke City to Cody, WY and the East Entrance to YNP.

In addition to YNP Cooke City is also located near numerous hiking trails in the Beartooth Mountains. The most used trail is from Cooke Pass to East Rosebud (located west of Red Lodge, MT). This 26 mile trail is commonly referred to as the "Beaten Path" - it is well used

If anybody wants more specific info about the Cooke City, Northeast YNP or the Beartooths PM me and I will help if I can.

[weasel and bunny]

I know the bear cannister is a newer rule at Grand Teton, but as of 2006, Yellowstone still required backcountry campes to hand their food on the poles at campsites. It always me how much difference there was between the two parks which are only about 12 miles apart.

You ain't kiddin on that one. In 2007 I heard there were a ton of bear/human incidents in GTNP usually with the bears getting into the hikers food from poorly hung or non hung food. As of Aug. this year, since the canister rule is now in effect, there have been no incidents in the park from what one volunteer told me.
I saw a few cables strung between two trees in GTNP in the backcountry. What does Yellowstone have?

[Bearpaw]

What does Yellowstone have?

Nothing that modern. It's basically a trimmed pine lashed horizontally 15-20 feet up to two other trees. But they do the job of keeping your hung food bag away from a standing grizzly.

[OregonHiker]

Since the introduction of the wolves the elk population has been decimated.

The elk population has been restored to it's "natural" population level.

It would be a good opprotunity to see elk in the rut.

There are usually a number of people in the Lamar that will let you peek through their spotting scope at the wolves. We saw 11 at one time about two weeks including two that were feeding on a bull elk.

[Nearly Normal]

Not far from the Northern Park entrance (inside the park) there is a hot springs that empties into the Gardiner River. I think this is on the 56th parallel. It's the only place I hear you can actually get in a hot springs legally in the park.
We did and it was great.
Short walk from parking.
Locals have piled up rocks to hold the hot water. I great stop if you have time.
Shoes are a must, suits if there are others around.
Depending where you sit adjusts the temp.

[Spirit Walker]

This time of year, permits aren't likely to be a problem. We walked into Bechler RS a month ago and got a permit for the next day. Lots of waterfalls and hot springs you can actually bathe in. It was a good hike. When we hiked the northern tier of Yellowstone at the end of August in 2006, we only saw a few other people on the trail. Again, permits weren't a problem. Specimen Ridge is a fantastic dayhike. The Electric Peak/Skyrim Trail area was a beautiful backpacking trip. (See http://spiriteaglehome.com/cdt06%20mt1.html )

Last year we hiked a very nice loop in the Tetons out of Jenny Lake. (http://spiriteaglehome.com/Journal18.html ) It was beautiful.

Or if you don't want to drive that far, there is still a lot of Utah for you to explore. Have you hiked Grand Gulch? Needles? The San Rafael?

[Bidwell]

Dude - Yellowstone is pretty cool and all but if you want a sick wilderness area closer to SLC, check out the High Uinta Wilderness. It's about an hour east of SLC, and has tons of lakes, peaks, and trails.

I was just there today (30 min drive from my place) - its getting a little colder now (maybe 30F at night depending on where you are), but there are no bugs now, and the scenery is to die for. It reminds me a lot like Glacier NP and it's such an underrated park.

Google it - you will be happy you did!

[Fiddleback]

Since the introduction of the wolves the elk population has been decimated. The Lamar Valley use to have major herds of elk - now you see one or two at a time (elk not herds).


I visit the Lamar Vally twice a year (I'll be there next week:)). I seldom see elk in ones and twos unless there's a herd very close by. The last time I saw a single elk far removed from a Lamar Vally herd it was indeed, being chased by a three wolves. Two wolves dropped out of the chase early and the elk eventually escaped. The elk, in large groups, are still there (they are a herd animal, afterall) and, in fact, with such groups comes safety from predators.

But I've noted some changes in Lamar since I started regular visits in 1999. I see more moose now. One possible reason for that is that I see more aspen and willow. And, in turn, a reason for that is that the elk now 'munch and move', as is natural, instead of standing and eating a plant down to the roots. And a major reason for that? The presence of wolves are keeping them on the move...

Elk population has been affected by drought and other climate changes, the hunting harvest, and predation from wolves and grizzlys among other causes. See this for a brief and balanced discussion... http://www.yellowstonepark.com/MoreToKnow/ShowNewsDetails.aspx?newsid=12 :

QUOTE:...simple answers are both elusive and often wrong, say scientists, citing the sheer complexity of the northern range ecosystem.

White said ruefully that 10 years after the reintroduction of wolves, "the range of predictions is as large as it was before." Past predictions have been spot-on, but others have been wildly off the mark. Today, there's disagreement on whether wolf predation is negligible or significant, where the elk and wolf populations will eventually settle, and at what level the elk hunting harvest can be sustainable.

What everyone would agree to, is that ongoing research is needed to better understand the complexity of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.ENDQUOTE

Lamar Valley is my favorite part of YNP and I think it provides the best, all-around wildlife viewing within the Park. If you're gonna do YNP, ya' gotta do Lamar!

FB

[OregonHiker]

Wolves in the Lamar Valley, September 2008
http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/showimage.php?i=27964&c=553