These were the first couple of hikes on my 2009 “Blue Blaze” Tour. When I thru-hiked the AT 10 years ago, I took only the white blazes the entire 2160.2 miles. Along the way I passed tons of blue-blazed side trails, many of which had been the AT in its earlier years. I often wondered what they would be like. On summer hikes in recent years, I’ve often explored some of those blue-blazed routes. This year, I wanted to make a 10 day trip of hiking (and bicycling) mostly “blue-blazes” in the northern Tennessee and southwest Virginia region.
These first two walks were day-hikes in the Roan Mountain and Pond Mountain areas.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Overmountain Victory Trail
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/041.jpg

I well remembered the yellow marker at Yellow Gap near the big red barn called Overmountain Shelter from my 1999 thru-hike. The sign explained that in 1780, backwoodsmen from Tennessee, Virginia, and North Carolina gathered at Sycamore Shoals, crossed over the mountains, and defeated a Tory contingent at King’s Mountain, NC. I was intrigued and wanted to find out more. This hike would do that.

I stepped off about 10:30 in the morning from the little gravel lot on the outskirts of Roan Mountain, TN. My buddy Dewey Bear travelled with me.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/033.jpg

The 4.4 miles to Overmountain Shelter were not quite what I expected. I figured it would mostly be a treed walk like the ridges, but the first 2 ½ miles was actually through farm country, complete with hayfields, cattle, and abandoned barns.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/034.jpg

I also figured most of the 2000 feet of climbing would be up a mountain ridge. But over half of the walk up was in these open farm fields. The result, while scenic, was a lot more sun than I had anticipated. After the first hour and change, I felt a bit sick to my stomach, as the sun sucked the moisture from my body. But I sat for a bit next to a small cascade and enjoyed plenty of water, and soon was ready to head up the final stretch of mountain trail.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/036.jpg

I knew I was close when I turned up the mild climb and tread of Old Yellow Gap Road.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/037.jpg

.4 miles later, I arrived at the AT intersection and the historical marker about Yellow Mountain Gap.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/038.jpg

I continued across the AT and grabbed water at one of two piped springs, then headed on to Overmountain Shelter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/039.jpg

The view from the eastern sleeping platforms remains a great one, no matter the season.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/040.jpg

After a quiet rest, Dewey and I headed back down to the trailhead. Our day had been shared with just 3 other dayhikers, the solitude I have come to expect from a blue-blazed path.


Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Hampton Blue Blaze Trail to Laurel Falls

The one-mile Hampton blue blaze is a case where I firmly believe the “old” AT is often better than the current AT. 2.7 miles north of Dennis Cove Road, the AT hits an intersection. Hikers can turn left along a 1-mile almost flat, wide, smooth walkway to the eastern edge of the town of Hampton, Tennessee. This was the official AT route until some time in the late 70’s or early 80’s. Or a hiker can continue 7 miles up the official AT, gaining nearly 2000 feet into the Pond Flats area (which has no ponds and is any thing but flat). The only redeeming feature is that a hiker crosses the road two miles east of Hampton right at Watauga Lake. I well remember a certain sense of disgust in 1999 after hiking the white blazes up to no views and a long circuitous route of green tunnel. For me, on this hike, it would be the Hampton blue blaze to Laurel Falls and back, a mere 5 miles.

Dewey and I again started out from the trailhead, light and ready to move.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/042.jpg

The nearly level blue-blaze connector was at least as smooth and wide as the AT.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/043.jpg
Blue-blaze

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/044.jpg
Appalachian Trail

It was a great walk along Laurel Creek, with crossings made even easier by elaborate bridges.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/045.jpg

I took the side trail up for a quick visit to Laurel Fork Shelter as well.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/046.jpg

Then I headed to the glory of Laurel Falls, positively roaring after weeks of consistent rain.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/049.jpg

After enjoying lunch, I headed back down the AT, including the slender ledge alongside the creek.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/Blue%20Blaze%2009%20TN/050.jpg

Other than the VA Creeper Trail, this short stretch offered more encounters with hikers than other walk on my entire 10 day trip. Perhaps half the dozen or so hikers were backpacking the AT. The other half consisted of locals enjoying the falls. As I headed out through the very nice little hiker town of Hampton, I could only scratch my head wondering what prompted the official AT route to be moved away from this wonderful little walk into town.

as usual bearpaw, your trip reports and pic don't dissapoint!!!

Thanks BP.

Great! Thanks for sharing it.

Beth

Great report and pictures. I'm glad Dewey let you go along. :D

Thanks for the pictures, Bearpaw. I just hiked through this section (Damascus to Erwin) last October. There's a lot more water coming over the falls than there was last Fall, towards the end of a long drought. I, too, wondered why they routed the AT up Pond Flats, after staying the prior night at the Braemer Castle hostel in Hampton as its only guest for the night. I'm hiking the white blazes this time around, but if I ever return I'll take the old AT.

Ahhh, the memories!! Thanks for sharing!!

Bearpaw, if you ever find yourself up near Laurel Falls again, check out the trail that follows Laurel Fork south of Dennis Cove Rd. The trailhead is very close to the Laurel Fork Lodge/Hostel/Campground/whatever that is, maybe half a mile from the AT... it's marked "39" on my map, which is a couple years old. When I was hiking south someone told me it was the old AT, and it looked a hell of a lot more interesting than a viewless, mostly waterless ridge, so I took it... it's wild! The trail crossed the river at least 20 times, no bridges (except two that reminded me of Maine's "bridges"- also known as slippery logs), barely maintained (and I mean that to be a good thing), and absolutely gorgeous. Felt more like wilderness than most of the AT did!

Also walked from Watauga lake down rt 321 and took the Hampton blue blaze you described. I agree- way better than the new AT!

As I headed out through the very nice little hiker town of Hampton, I could only scratch my head wondering what prompted the official AT route to be moved away from this wonderful little walk into town.

Bearpaw, if you ever find yourself up near Laurel Falls again, check out the trail that follows Laurel Fork south of Dennis Cove Rd. The trailhead is very close to the Laurel Fork Lodge/Hostel/Campground/whatever that is, maybe half a mile from the AT... it's marked "39" on my map, which is a couple years old. When I was hiking south someone told me it was the old AT, and it looked a hell of a lot more interesting than a viewless, mostly waterless ridge, so I took it... it's wild! The trail crossed the river at least 20 times, no bridges (except two that reminded me of Maine's "bridges"- also known as slippery logs), barely maintained (and I mean that to be a good thing), and absolutely gorgeous. Felt more like wilderness than most of the AT did!

Also walked from Watauga lake down rt 321 and took the Hampton blue blaze you described. I agree- way better than the new AT!

Oh, you non trail maintainers and your trail route complaining. In Tennessee outside of the Smokies, 99% of the time the trail's route is determined by either a) public lands vs. private lands or b) biological reasons.

Just putting a trail in the woods to whatever is the most pleasing isn't as easy as it sounds. If one was so upset about the trail route, they should look at the maps and realize that the trail is running through public lands and cannot deviate from that on to private lands.

I maintain Pond Mountain. I realize it is not the prettiest thing in the world, but it's a part of the trail - just like the roller coaster and all the other parts people complain about. It is impossible to have a view on every mountain you climb.

If you want to learn more about trail location and maintenance, get off your can and come out with us tomorrow to carry a crosscut saw and swing blades 7 miles since it is a wilderness area and we cannot use motorized devices.

LOVE your cute little companion!!

Although my memory is hazy about this now, I remember being "re-routed" on the AT near Hampton by a grandma with a shotgun who didn't want us on her land. This was in 79, I was hiking with a summer camp group, our counselors just said 'yessum' and we took a wide berth through the woods.

Maybe that has a bit to do with the re-route near there...:D

Dude! Anybody who hikes with a teddy bear is awesome.

If you want to learn more about trail location and maintenance, get off your can and come out with us tomorrow to carry a crosscut saw and swing blades 7 miles since it is a wilderness area and we cannot use motorized devices.

I've put in several hundred hours building the Cumberland Trail, so my "can" is accustomed to working in wilderness.

That said, the Hampton blue blaze still exists just fine and gets a great deal more use than the AT from locals. To reroute the trail 2000 feet up for no good reason boggles the mind.

LOVE your cute little companion!!

Dude! Anybody who hikes with a teddy bear is awesome.

Dewey Bear is the heart of soul of a lot of my hikes.

I've put in several hundred hours building the Cumberland Trail, so my "can" is accustomed to working in wilderness.

That said, the Hampton blue blaze still exists just fine and gets a great deal more use than the AT from locals. To reroute the trail 2000 feet up for no good reason boggles the mind.

Good for you on the CT. I am from middle Tennessee and look forward to doing that. I know you are involved. Post was really aimed at guy from Maine. He of all people should know about trail maintenance.

It's not 2000 feet up for no good reason. Keeping it on public lands is the reason. I know I am biased, but I love camping on top of Pond Flats.

I like camping up there too!

I got completely lost in a field while night hiking on the Overmountain Victory Trail a couple of years back. Well, not lost, exactly. I just couldn't find where the trail came out on the other side of the field.

I was even more confused than I usually am.

i love love love your hiking partner. :)

makes me feel lucky to live in this area. I think it is fantastic that you are exploring the myriad of tracks/trails that connect to the AT...some believe that was one of the things the creator invisioned. Maybe I'm wrong but didn't the AT at one time follow the Blue Ridge Parkway? Seems like that would be another place with hundreds of hikes to the left and right.

Oh, you non trail maintainers and your trail route complaining. In Tennessee outside of the Smokies, 99% of the time the trail's route is determined by either a) public lands vs. private lands or b) biological reasons.

Just putting a trail in the woods to whatever is the most pleasing isn't as easy as it sounds. If one was so upset about the trail route, they should look at the maps and realize that the trail is running through public lands and cannot deviate from that on to private lands.

I maintain Pond Mountain. I realize it is not the prettiest thing in the world, but it's a part of the trail - just like the roller coaster and all the other parts people complain about. It is impossible to have a view on every mountain you climb.

If you want to learn more about trail location and maintenance, get off your can and come out with us tomorrow to carry a crosscut saw and swing blades 7 miles since it is a wilderness area and we cannot use motorized devices.


Thanks for aiming your post at the dude from Maine, Cabin Fever, but a) I'm a chick, b) I wasn't complaining and c) there's no need to get self-righteous or defensive. The idea of carrying cross-cut saws and swing blades (or rock bars, pick mattocks, hazel hoes...) 7 miles neither impresses me nor strikes fear and shame into my heart. You gotta do what you gotta do and in wilderness areas that's how it works. I spent last summer building and maintaining trail and composting waste, help out when I can now, and will be doing the same thing next summer. I also understand the issues- both ecological and legal- surrounding trail location. That said, I stand by my post. I don't really care why they re-routed it the AT away from Laurel Fork and up onto the ridge (though the thought of an old lady with a shotgun forcing a reroute tickles me pink), and I wasn't upset or complaining about the re-route or the lack of views and water on it. I was merely saying that the old route looked more interesting than the new one, and since it wasn't shut down for regrowth, I took it and I loved it.

I'm glad you're out there maintaining and building trail. It's a great thing to do and amazingly fun. I hope you keep on getting out there and encouraging others to do the same. :)

Dewey Bear is the heart of soul of a lot of my hikes.

And I'm sure it's a HUGE hit with ladies! We can't help ourselves when it comes to a guy with a teddy bear! ;)

You have some great fotogs and got to do some cool explorations, but it must be hard to go out for the day and not stay overnight. To me personally, dayhiking is torture, it's like winning the lottery on the day I die in a car wreck, or trying to eat a big meal without any teeth. I don't see how you do it.

You have some great fotogs and got to do some cool explorations, but it must be hard to go out for the day and not stay overnight. To me personally, dayhiking is torture, it's like winning the lottery on the day I die in a car wreck, or trying to eat a big meal without any teeth. I don't see how you do it.
My only complaint and advantage about day hiking is that most of the time you have to walk the same leg back to your car. So its like hiking twice as far but seeing only half as much. But then again, you can see everything twice from the other perspective. Plus, with day hiking you can take in the views in a little bit more because you are not in a hurry to put in miles.