View Full Version : Hiking PA...
man... I just wrote a long trip report about my hike through PA and something happened when I submitted it and it disappeared. Dang dang dang...
I'll try again later.
The short version:
I've never seen so many rocks. I saw a bear, no snakes. Lickdale is the best town stop I've ever made.
Did I say there were a lot of rocks? The ultralight boots I hike in usually give me about 500 or so miles before they give out. I started PA with a brand new pair (had 40 miles on them from the MD section). After 230 miles of PA they are all but shot.
Rocks, rocks, rocks. I thought people were exaggerating - think about what you think a lot of rocks would be like. Then triple it.
Cookerhiker
07-14-2009, 11:11
No snakes? Hey, I thought you were a "snake magnet" or am I getting you mixed up with someone else?
Re the rocks - they weren't that bad in the southern half, were they?
Yes, amazing that I did not see a single snake - a record for me.
I did not notice the rocks letting up until well south of Duncannon - I'd say it was more like the southern 20% that wasn't rocky rather than the southern 50%.
Personally, and this is just me, I'd never choose to hike the AT in PA again - it's just too rocky for my tastes. Nothing personal, just my preference.
I hiking the first part of PA this october. Pen Mar to Duncannon how was that section?
dzierzak
07-14-2009, 13:45
I just did Harpers Ferry to Duncannon last month. The section was not bad at all. There was a bit of a rocky section just north of Quarry Gap shelters. And, a way crazy rock-garden, boulder-strewn area about half-way between James Fry and Alex Kennedy shelters. It took a while for me to get through that part. (Old man hiker does 120-140 mile sections - takes a while to get the legs back every year.)
Otherwise, it's a nice section - flatter than a lot of the trail. I enjoyed it.
I just wrote a long trip report about my hike through PA and something happened when I submitted it and it disappeared.
Time ran out? Long ago, I learned to highlight and copy first, before striking send reply just in case I don't enter my screen name and password exactly right when it's requested.
I've never seen so many rocks. Lickdale is the best town stop I've ever made.
Lickdale? Your comment requires an explanation.
Did I say there were a lot of rocks? The ultralight boots I hike in usually give me about 500 or so miles before they give out. I started PA with a brand new pair (had 40 miles on them from the MD section). After 230 miles of PA they are all but shot.
Didn't I recommend boots?
Rocks, rocks, rocks. I thought people were exaggerating - think about what you think a lot of rocks would be like. Then triple it.
You're a sissy!;) Now you're ready for New England. Bring boots.
I just did Harpers Ferry to Duncannon last month. The section was not bad at all. There was a bit of a rocky section just north of Quarry Gap shelters. And, a way crazy rock-garden, boulder-strewn area about half-way between James Fry and Alex Kennedy shelters. It took a while for me to get through that part. (Old man hiker does 120-140 mile sections - takes a while to get the legs back every year.)
Otherwise, it's a nice section - flatter than a lot of the trail. I enjoyed it.
Same here I won't be able to thru until I retire 2020 So I also do 100-140 sections also
I hiking the first part of PA this october. Pen Mar to Duncannon how was that section?
If you divide PA into thirds - From DWG to Port Clinton, Port Clinton to Duncannon and Duncannon to Pen Mar - then Duncannon to Pen Mar would be the least rocky.
But... there is no shortage of rocks between Duncannon and Pen Mar - they start to thin out about half way to Pen Mar.
And, in all fairness, every day had some sections that were pretty good... Even with the rocks I was able to make 20+ mpd.
You learned something new, good for you!
Lickdale? Your comment requires an explanation.
Lickdale was heaven sent. I had planned on stopping in Port Clinton to shower and wash clothes at the hotel. When I got there, the hotel had closed for vacation the day before so there I was.... 4 days on the trail, no shower and no clean clothes. I was in Port Clinton for less than 2 hours before I hiked out.
The next town stop I came to was Lickdale. It is 2.5 miles off the trail but I was able to hitch in pretty easily. The Day's Inn is very good - clean, etc., and the jacuzzi is right next to the washer and dryer. From the Day's Inn there is a Dunkin Donuts, Dairy Queen, Wendy's, Subway, Blimpies, Godfather's Pizza, Chester's Fried Chicken and a cool little camp store with hand dipped ice cream milk shakes all within 200 or so yards. It's like a little oasis. Next morning, easy hitch back to the trail.
I spent the night of 4th of July in Duncannon where by all accounts I was the only sober person in town. I received a lot of negative feedback from northbound hikers about Duncannon but I had a pretty good time there. The folks at the Doyle (Pat and Vikki) were super nice and the food was incredibly good. The room wasn't hitting on much but for $25 my expectations were pretty low so I wasn't surprised there.
\
You're a sissy!;) Now you're ready for New England. Bring boots.
It's funny... I kept thinking that the rocks were really bad, and every time I thought they couldn't possibly get worse - they got worse. By the time I got to Wind Gap I was really cursing PA, swearing to myself I'd never, ever hike in this state again and that was just the beginning of the hike!
The climax was probably the climb down Lehigh Gap (Palmerton). That's like a lunar landscape or the aftermath of a nuclear war. That's probably the most difficult section of the AT I've been on so far.
I say I'd never hike in PA again, but I probably would when it's all said and done. The further away the hike gets the more fun it was - it's like that. ;)
If you divide PA into thirds - From DWG to Port Clinton, Port Clinton to Duncannon and Duncannon to Pen Mar - then Duncannon to Pen Mar would be the least rocky.
I think the Pen Mar to Duncannon is the best section in PA.
Panzer
Hey, 10-K, nice to read your report. I saw lots of snakes, even if you didn't. One rattler, two or three black racers, a cute little guy with a chartreuse ring near its head. And just one little correction, you were not the only sober person the night of the fourth at the Doyle. The two of us probably set a record for sobriety that will never be surpassed. I heard lots of bad stuff about the place from northbounders, too, but I had a great experience there.
Hey, 10-K, nice to read your report. I saw lots of snakes, even if you didn't. One rattler, two or three black racers, a cute little guy with a chartreuse ring near its head. And just one little correction, you were not the only sober person the night of the fourth at the Doyle. The two of us probably set a record for sobriety that will never be surpassed. I heard lots of bad stuff about the place from northbounders, too, but I had a great experience there.
Hi Tiptoe! It was a real pleasure meeting you, first on the trail and then later in Duncannon.
You're going to be hiking the Whites pretty soon right? (lucky you!)
Thanks for letting me grill you on hammock stuff.. My wife, who has been hiking exactly once, insists on getting a hammock if she's going to start hiking. :)
I think the Pen Mar to Duncannon is the best section in PA.
Panzer
I'd have to agree, especially if you don't count the first 35 or so miles south of Duncannon. There was that one section before Boiling Springs (going south) that is around 12 miles of level, smooth trail. It took me longer than normal to hike that section because there were so many blackberries. I ate more blackberries that day than I've ate in the last 10 years.
Lehigh Gap was loaded with blueberries. As that's a superfund site and all I don't know if they were toxic or not but I ate a few cups of 'em. ;)
bullseye
07-14-2009, 18:15
10-K ya gotta admit, the worst of the worst was from Wolf Rocks to Wind Gap:D!
I'd have to agree, especially if you don't count the first 35 or so miles south of Duncannon. ;)
Most north bounders think of the famous PA rocks beginning as they cross the Susquehanna river, but yea, actually the rocks begin just a bit south of the Susquehanna river.
Panzer
The Mechanical Man
07-15-2009, 00:18
Pa rocks are great fun...............
Just put a few into your fellow hikers packs, when they are not looking. :D
saimyoji
07-15-2009, 00:36
Pa rocks are great fun...............
Just put a few into your fellow hikers packs, when they are not looking. :D
any useful info on how the springs in your area are running?
MedicineMan
07-15-2009, 07:11
but I'd say that about any section of the AT I've done.
So far the hardest section I have done is that crazy rollercoaster in north va, look forward to the challenge of PA
any useful info on how the springs in your area are running?
There was plenty of water all the way through PA when I went through there 6/28 - 7/8. There are some dry stretches but I don't think I ever went more than 15 miles without a chance to get water somewhere close to the trail. I only went off the trail once to get water and it was just a few hundred feet.
There were more actually more water sources than indicated in the guide.
Blissful
07-15-2009, 15:15
No snakes has got to be a record...
:)
There was a nice den (used to be) north of Peters Mtn shelter.
Blissful
07-15-2009, 15:18
Re the rocks - they weren't that bad in the southern half, were they?
The trail in southern PA is nice and nice shelters to. The northern part is the challenge. But if you go farther north on the AT to New York and beyond to NH and ME, the smaller rocks get you ready to navigate the bigger stuff. So PA is good for getting one ready. I liked it for that and also for the people.
There was a nice den (used to be) north of Peters Mtn shelter.
It ceased to exist not long after they became WEBELOWS.:(
The section from Duncannon to Peter's Mtn shelter is my home section!
How long to hike from Duncannon to Pen-Mar?
I'm planning on doing it NOBO, towards the end of summer hiking, (for me, that means Oct.)
Will be nice, my wife can drop me off in Pen-Mar, and I can simply hike home!
Lone Wolf
07-16-2009, 07:45
The section from Duncannon to Peter's Mtn shelter is my home section!
How long to hike from Duncannon to Pen-Mar?
I'm planning on doing it NOBO, towards the end of summer hiking, (for me, that means Oct.)
Will be nice, my wife can drop me off in Pen-Mar, and I can simply hike home!
it's 83 miles. 5-6 days
fredmugs
07-16-2009, 08:03
It's funny... I kept thinking that the rocks were really bad, and every time I thought they couldn't possibly get worse - they got worse. By the time I got to Wind Gap I was really cursing PA, swearing to myself I'd never, ever hike in this state again and that was just the beginning of the hike!
The climax was probably the climb down Lehigh Gap (Palmerton). That's like a lunar landscape or the aftermath of a nuclear war. That's probably the most difficult section of the AT I've been on so far.
I say I'd never hike in PA again, but I probably would when it's all said and done. The further away the hike gets the more fun it was - it's like that. ;)
Love this! I hate the rocks too and there really is no reason to hike the AT in PA other than it has to be done if you want to do the whole trail. The only good thing about PA was having cheesesteak and Yuengling at the Doyle.
I hear people complain about hard the climb out of the NOC (or the Priest, etc) is and I just laugh because to me that was cake. I complain about the rocks and other people laugh at me.
it's 83 miles. 5-6 days
thanks thats my columbas day hike, planning on doing pa in 3 sections start 10-6 and finishing up on the 10-11 or 12th
ShelterLeopard
07-16-2009, 11:34
man... I just wrote a long trip report about my hike through PA and something happened when I submitted it and it disappeared. Dang dang dang...
I'll try again later.
The short version:
I've never seen so many rocks. I saw a bear, no snakes. Lickdale is the best town stop I've ever made.
Did I say there were a lot of rocks? The ultralight boots I hike in usually give me about 500 or so miles before they give out. I started PA with a brand new pair (had 40 miles on them from the MD section). After 230 miles of PA they are all but shot.
Rocks, rocks, rocks. I thought people were exaggerating - think about what you think a lot of rocks would be like. Then triple it.
I saw plenty of snakes (Black Rat Snakes- harmless, but daunting if you don't know that they're harmless). And everyone says, Pennsylvania is the place where good boots go to die.
ShelterLeopard
07-16-2009, 11:36
There was plenty of water all the way through PA when I went through there 6/28 - 7/8. There are some dry stretches but I don't think I ever went more than 15 miles without a chance to get water somewhere close to the trail. I only went off the trail once to get water and it was just a few hundred feet.
There were more actually more water sources than indicated in the guide.
As of mid June, water wasn't great between PAlmerton (Lehigh Gap) and DWG. Most of the water sources after Kirkridge Shelter, all in fact, are about half a mile off the trail, down hill.
dzierzak
07-16-2009, 13:01
I saw plenty of snakes (Black Rat Snakes- harmless, but daunting if you don't know that they're harmless). And everyone says, Pennsylvania is the place where good boots go to die.
Gotta agree about the boots...:D
Nasty Dog Virus
07-16-2009, 13:25
Hasn't rained in a while here in central PA. The spring at Darlington Shelter was dry last night. No suprise as this spring is weak even after decent rains.
As for our rocks and boots...I get 1-2 years out of a pair of leather boots and I'll hike all year round with the same pair. Eventually the rocks beat the leather to death...
ShelterLeopard
07-16-2009, 13:39
I had boots for five years that were great, then they met Pennsylvania.....
The Mechanical Man
07-16-2009, 23:31
any useful info on how the springs in your area are running?
saimyoji,.......
As far as I have heard from hikers, most all the "reliable" springs in my area are still running, just a long hike between them.
No current information on the Bake Oven Knob Shelter spring.
The spring at Outerbridge Shelter - Lehigh Gap, was reported slow but running.
Hikers can't even find "Metallica" Spring, (no marked trail) anymore, let alone use it.
Delps Spring - Seasonal, I have no current information.
Stempa's Spring is running, and the 2 lower springs at Leroy Smith Shelter are always running.
Stop down at our place when you get to Smith Gap. :welcome
ShelterLeopard
07-16-2009, 23:35
saimyoji,.......
As far as I have heard from hikers, most all the "reliable" springs in my area are still running, just a long hike between them.
No current information on the Bake Oven Knob Shelter spring.
The spring at Outerbridge Shelter - Lehigh Gap, was reported slow but running.
Hikers can't even find "Metallica" Spring, (no marked trail) anymore, let alone use it.
Delps Spring - Seasonal, I have no current information.
Stempa's Spring is running, and the 2 lower springs at Leroy Smith Shelter are always running.
Stop down at our place when you get to Smith Gap. :welcome
I was there a couple weeks ago- at Delps Spring, the water is running, but most people think it isn't, because there are a lot of grooves in the ground that look like dried up springs, so a bunch actually turn back before they reach the real spring. A long way down. The second spring at Leroy Smith wasn't great, but the third was BEAUTIFUL. So nice to cool my feet in that!
PS- I couldn't find Stempa Spring- where is it?
The Mechanical Man
07-16-2009, 23:49
I was there a couple weeks ago- at Delps Spring, the water is running, but most people think it isn't, because there are a lot of grooves in the ground that look like dried up springs, so a bunch actually turn back before they reach the real spring. A long way down. The second spring at Leroy Smith wasn't great, but the third was BEAUTIFUL. So nice to cool my feet in that!
PS- I couldn't find Stempa Spring- where is it?
The .6 long blue blaze trail to Stempa's Spring, is located .7 miles South of Smith Gap road on the AT. :sun
Where were you looking?
ShelterLeopard
07-16-2009, 23:55
Darn! I must've been so tired I just walked right past it! I saw you in the guidebook and I was going to come down and check out the home of the famous mechanical man, but I just decided to keep going straight. You can be sure you'll see me next year though!
The Mechanical Man
07-17-2009, 00:26
Darn! I must've been so tired I just walked right past it! I saw you in the guidebook and I was going to come down and check out the home of the famous mechanical man, but I just decided to keep going straight. You can be sure you'll see me next year though!
ShelterLeopard,...........
Sorry you missed it.
I will personally hike with you to it, when you visit next time. :welcome