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Oh well, made the first 40 miles. Clingman Dome was deserted and foggy so felt very surreal. Saw a bunch of rangers putting up barriers in the parking lots - too bad they have to work without pay. One said he wasn't even allowed to use his vacation pay - just zero income right now. Nice guys, hard workers, wish it was different for them (and us).

This and two other emails listing the shelters we'd reserved north of Newfound Gap were in my inbox:

Backcountry Permit - B118147 ...