I am so pleased with how this first attempt turned out, I just had to share. The biggest problem I have with typical camp shoes (crocs, flip flops...) is if I step wrong I might get my sleeping socks wet. This is a cuben fiber glued to a sleeping pad moccasin. The seams are taped. The top has a shockcord loop with a small toggle for adjustment, but the toggle is unnecessary. Without the toggle it weighs .5 oz. That's 1 oz. for the pair. This thing is pretty sweet. I am thinking this bad boy may make it to the Cedar Tree Industry product line.

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I just finished a new quilt for my 4 year old son. I started on his first since it is smaller and to give me some practice on the sewing machine. 1.1 ripstop and 5.0 apex. Right around 12 oz which is about 25% of the weight of his sleeping bag. I'm not real happy with how the velcro footbox turned out so that will be addressed before I start on mine.
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I like tinkering with DIY projects. I like science related stuff for use with my stoves. I've done some research on laminar flow and how it relates to flames going up the side of a pot. Some say laminar is not what we want. Most everyone wants the flames to stay under the pot for all practical reasons;) I had an idea of how to better keep those flames concentrated on the bottom and to have the heat generated hug the sides of the pot as it rises in a agitated manner(better than laminar). The idea was to have the entering air whirl the flames in a circular motion. I used louveres to focus the air in a "whirlwind" motion as you will see in the video.

I think the flame pattern is cool!

Take a look at what I came up with, let me know what you think:

I came up with this because I had no free tyvek and I'm a broke hiker. And I have a bag of old suspenders :-? Can be made without the mylar sun shade & a lighter weight fabric for warm weather hiking. Since my dog is small-ish we are both able to fit on the pad when we stop for breaks on the trail.
Future DIY project is to make him a floor length coat to use with the pad for Winter Camping.


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Materials List

Dog food bag plastic tarp like material (Purina Dog Chow gifted from neighbor)
Car windshield sun shade bought @ a tag sale
Duct Tape (White left over from a cold frame project)
Suspenders (gifted)
Fleece (repurposed a couch blanket)
Velcro (cannibalized from old clothing)
Sewing machine or needle, thread, thimble, ruler.
Super Glue


Open both ends of the dog food bag, turn inside out so only the white shows unless your into the advertisement graphics.
Place sun shade inside. Trim shade 2" shorter than the bag, center so there is an inch of bag on each open end. Reach inside & tape down to prevent shade from sliding.
On one end fold the bag tucking the ends inside, tape shut.
On the other end fold (tucking the ends in) but before sewing & taping closed add a 6"- 8" section of suspender material folded in half. Place 3" from the corner of bag (see photo)
The length of suspender depends on how much give it has left. Include the suspender in the sewn seam. When done you will be able to roll up the pad & secure with the suspender loops.

Removable Fleece Liner
Cut fleece a few inches smaller than the circumference of bag. The bag should frame the fleece.
Sew one portion of velcro (hook) to fleece along the two longest edges. The other portion of velcro (loop) both glue & tape to bag along the longest edge so it matches the placement on the fleece.

I went in my shop today and put this together. It weighs 7 ounces and is 10" long when closed. Smaller version will weigh maybe 4 ounces and like 5 to 7 inches long. Cost is about $3 to $10 to make. I used a double sided sawzall blade by Spyder. Very very durable saw, not flemsy
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I'd like to know how to build or buy something to hold my water bottle on the front strap of my pack. The ones by camel back and other brand names are to bulky. I have a bladder and do not like it. I don't want anything around my waste that will impede my arm swing. Any idea's?

Getting ready to tackle my first apex topquilt. What are everyone's thoughts on the drawcord channel for top and bottom? The 2 tutorials that I've ready are completely different and I'm not sure which route would be the easiest/best/most recommended.
Just rolling the seam like here: http://lytw8.com/uploads/LytW8_Summe...structions.pdf

Or using a separate piece of fabric like here:
http://kringlelight.files.wordpress....in50_guide.pdf

Or maybe even a separate piece of fabric sewn just to the top shell about 1-2" down from the top.

Over the years I have used more than 12 gallons of denatured alcohol for testing DIY stove designs. 1/2oz/15ml at a time. I stopped counting after the 12th gallon.

I learned early on that low barometric pressure/humid air associated with incoming storm fronts etc. had a direct affect on my tests.

On a dry sunny day a stove design would boil 2 cups of 70 degree water with no problem. Overnite the barometric pressure drops and rain is falling. Same stove tested with same amount of fuel and beginning water temperature and I can't get a boil.

This is just a reminder to new DIY stove designers out there humid conditions have an affect on your tests just as the humid conditions helped firefighters out west put down the fires yesterday.

Much of my work as a smith is museum reproduction pieces. It's not very often that I get to make something more modern, and when I make knives its always for someone else. In 13 years I have never made a knife for myself.

This morning I was inspired to hammer out a knife for myself a little more modern than the 17th century. I wish I had actually planned the project, so that I could have taken pictures along the way.

I started with a piece of tool steel about 3/4 inch round and about 4 inches long. Hammered that into a flat bar about about 3/8" x 3/4". Then shouldered the bar to create the handle and then alternated between forming the handle and drawing out the blade, as well as hammering the blade bevel. The knife was drawn down to a thickness of slightly more than 1/8". Last I punched and drifted the hole in the handle, and then annealed the blade.

My next step is the file work and refining the shape of the knife, along the lines of a tanto. Then harden and tempering the blade. For the handle, I'm actually considering the use of latex tool dip.

Over all the total length is 8 inches, with the blade and handle both being 4 inches each, while unfinished weight is 3.9 ounces.

I'll update the thread as the knife progresses. But for now, here is the knife in its roughly forged state --
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I'm contemplating a MYOG apex 5.0 quilt for 3 season use, to save some money but still have a reliable lightweight sleep system. Here's the different options I've come up with and rough price estimates. Apex would come from Thru-hiker and all the thread, grosgrain, velcro, shock cord, and cordlocks from DIY gear supply.

From Thru-hiker:
M50 inner and outer = $65
M90 inner and outer = $60
Pertex Quantum inner and M50 outer = $78

From DIY gear supply
1.1 ripstop 2nds inner and outer = $16
1.1 ripstop 2nds outer and Impetus 1.0 inner = $37

I guess I understand that the higher dollar fabrics can be nicer next to the skin which would be nice when its really hot outside. Just wondering where the cost/benefit curve seems to be the best. This is going to be my first completely DIY quilt. I'm using an old synthetic converted mummy bag right now. If I go with the 1.1 2nds I can probably have enough money left over to make a 2.5 Apex quilt as well which is appealing. I've also had the thought of a single layer of 1.1 ripstop sewn to a single layer of 100 weight fleece for a summer bag when nighttime temps are above 75.

I'm considering making a pack but I know next to nothing about fabrics. I'd like to know what is the lightest fabric that comes the closest to the ruggedness of 1000 D Cordura.

Thanks.

I have been working on designing a new bag for myself that is lighter and cheaper than purchasing some of the unaffordable masterpieces I've seen recently. My goals are: 35-40* bag, sub - 1lb, for less than $100.


I am going to purchase Momentum 50 for the shell (inner and outer) and Climashield Apex (either 3oz or 5oz not sure which yet.) these are the best rated and lightest materials I've come across but if anyone has other suggestions I would love to hear them. As a side not I haven't considered Cuben due to the fact I can't located where to purchase it AND I am not sure if it will "destroy" my budget.

My primary concern is this... I have NEVER used a quilt in a regular tent on the ground, I sleep primarily on my stomach in a tent and I am concerned about "draftiness." I don't want to invest a large quantity of time and money into something I may not be happy with BUT I am considering using snaps or "toggles" at least the upper 1/3 or 1/2 of the bag and sew the bottom shut.

Just out of curiosity has anyone attempted to assemble a bag using 1/4" or 1/2" VHB tape much like the DIY Cuben Hammock Tarp on Hammock Forums? Thought it might be simpler and easier than sewing....

Anyone ever used these as bladders? They're not as durable as the large nalgene bladders one might use at camp but they're actually pretty durable and have a wide mouth for easy filling.


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I've been researching the modified Tyvek DuPont coverall design for DIY rain gear (described here) and want the advice of people who have done this. My hope is to modify the coveralls into a long rain jacket and then cut out the back and attach a pack cover in the Packa style (skipping the pants). I'm even considering getting bold and adding pit vents, but first things first.

1. The material itself... is it actually waterproof? I have heard both ways.
2. I understand the Tyvek coveralls HAVE to be seam sealed/reinforced. Best method? Tyvek tape and/or everyday tent sealant? What about the zipper?
3. 'Bushwackers' talk about them not being sturdy. I'll be using mine on the VA section this summer. Am I right in assuming I won't be doing much 'bushwacking' and therefore don't need to worry too much about wrenching my way through tangled bramble in the rain and tearing it?
4. I'll be on the trail a month... will this thing last?

I appreciate your input!

I picked up an exped sleepwalker duo down blanket and would like to modify a thermarest quilted sheet to snap to the quilt. Anyone have any idea where you can buy the plastic buttons exped uses?

The exped duo is the quilt thermarest should have made, a few buttons installed in the thermarest sheet and its the perfect product.

TIA