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  1. #1
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    Default Alaska-Denail National Park Experiences Please

    Hey Everyone,

    A couple of buddies and I are in the first stages of planning for a backpacking trip to Denali National Park this summer. I have always wanted to visit Alaska and am super stoked about this trip. We are using planning on using a guide service for safety, have not decided which one yet.

    We plan to be out a total of 5-7 days, but no more. I guess my questions are kind of open ended. I was really looking to find out if anyone here had any guidance/experience up there that they could suggest? I am concerned about being prepared for weather and wildlife (specifically bear & moose) Also, if anyone has any first hand experience with guide companies it sure would help if you can post up. Thanks.

  2. #2

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    Andrew Shurka has experience: he has a website.

  3. #3
    Registered User swjohnsey's Avatar
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    This is serious bear country and you are required to use a bear canister. I think the park rents them.

  4. #4
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    I worked at Denali in the early 80s, and hiked a bunch on days off. You do not need a guide for a shortish trip. Get a hiking guidebook to the park and pick several alternative trips, and see whats open at the back country desk. Do expect to see grizzly bears, perhaps at close quarters. So use a canister and carry bear spray. Also bring mosquito repellent and good rain gear. There are few trails, you hike mostly through open tundra. You will not be disappointed.File0002.jpg
    "It's fun to have fun, but you have to know how." ---Dr. Seuss

  5. #5
    Registered User Cadenza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feral Bill View Post

    That is a nice shot.

  6. #6
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    I have backpacked in Denali. You will love it. There is not a formal trail system so you need to have basic Land Nav skills. If you do not have these skills go get them and practice them using map and compass. Take a GPS but do not rely on it. Electronics fail! If you can handle that, there is no need to hire a guide. Having said that, it is very easy to navigate in the Park. Lots of prominent land features to help you out. As other have stated, you will probably see bears. Follow the NPS rules on bear safety. Absolutely no smellables near your tent. Carry bear spray that you can draw very quickly. Do not keep it on your pack! . I saw several bull moose and a cow with a calf. The rut was not on so the bull's were not even remotely interested in me. Just give them plenty of space. The cow was definitely keenly interested in my presence. Make sure you give them plenty of space.

  7. #7
    Peakbagger Extraordinaire The Solemates's Avatar
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    The backcountry is broken into areas and it's a first come first served system
    You may likely end up with a wait for the most desirable spots. Do your homework on the system to maximize your trip. We really enjoyed the wonder lake area but it's also hard to get. No need for a guide.
    The only thing better than mountains, is mountains where you haven't been.

    amongnature.blogspot.com

  8. #8

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    Getting a permit is interesting. They limit the number of people in each section of the park to preserve the sense of wilderness. The main part of the park is divided into 43 units that allow up to 8 people a day in each unit. There are other more remote areas that don’t limit hikers, but they are a long way back. The more popular ones fill up early. If you are willing to wait, you can eventually get what you want, but some of us don’t have the time to play with the system of starting with one area then moving on to the one you really want a day or two later. If you can’t wait, or don’t have a clue what you want, you go to a book that briefly describes each unit, listing attractions (views, bears, Dall sheep) and challenges (steep climbs, willow, river crossings, scree, glaciers, etc.) It isn’t all that helpful as it is so abbreviated. You have to understand the code, and we only had half a clue, based on our previous hike. We did know to avoid anything that listed willows prominently. It is a time consuming process trying to figure out what is available that meets your abilities. The backcountry staff weren’t at all helpful, they just left us alone to figure it out. But then, I didn’t ask for help either. They were surprisingly busy. A lot of people wanted to backpack in the Park. There was a required video on dealing with bears, camping rules, etc. and a free bear canister to be checked out. Then we needed to get maps for the area we would be hiking and another bus ticket on the camper bus out to the backcountry unit we will be hiking (the regular buses don’t have room for packs).

    When we were dropped off, I was surprised at the many use trails, so even though there weren't formal trails, getting through the brush wasn't as difficult as expected. If you look for the logical place to go, you may find rough trails. It is magical, being in real wilderness. We saw Dall sheep and caribou and had a meeting with mama griz and her yearling cub.

    Be aware that close to Wonder Lake, the mosquitoes are usually much worse, unless you go late summer. Also, don't expect to walk many miles every day. We were told to plan on 5-10 at the most. We spent a lot of time just sitting and looking for wildlife. Weather may also make you hole up for hours or days. One trip we ran into total white out on a day hike. We didn't go very far because it would be so easy to run into trouble.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cadenza View Post
    That is a nice shot.
    Thank you. The Dall sheep are not shy.
    "It's fun to have fun, but you have to know how." ---Dr. Seuss

  10. #10
    Registered User Hikes in Rain's Avatar
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    Wow, things have changed since I was up there (mid-70's). We drove our VW back to Wonder Lake! Permits? Never heard of them. More folks now, I suppose.

  11. #11

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    You don't need guides. It is a wonderful experience. I loved it. I would highly recommend going to the Denali forum on TripAdvisor. It is very active and has a lot of people who will give you every insider tip you will ever need. They will give you detailed info on sections and help you build a list of options. There is also tons of posts where you can glean enormous information. Have fun! Fantastic park.

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