Hi,
Is there any reason that Coleman's 70/30 (Butane/Propane) cartridges (3250-702T) will not work with MSR Reactor Stove? The fuel mix in MSR's canisters is slightly different (80/20 - ISO/Proprane)
Thanks,
Joe
Hi,
Is there any reason that Coleman's 70/30 (Butane/Propane) cartridges (3250-702T) will not work with MSR Reactor Stove? The fuel mix in MSR's canisters is slightly different (80/20 - ISO/Proprane)
Thanks,
Joe
No, though I haven't used the reactor, in my experience I like the coleman canisters the most for my MSR stove. Don't leak at all, and lasted longer than usual.
I have a jetboil, they say you should use only their fuel because it will be more efficient. However, in my experience I believe the Snowpeak giga canisters are more efficient. Although, I've never did any hardcore experiments, so I'm not sure if that's true, but they are definitely cheaper. Test it out.
I have a reactor and have used coleman canisters they work fine.
If you find yourself in a fair fight; your tactics suck.
All the manufacturers make their valves slightly differently. The OP has a MSR stove. I lose a lot of gas on snowpeak canisters with my MSR stove. I'm sure snowpeak's canisters and stoves are designed for eachother and work well. Doesn't work well for MSR however.
The gas is lost when it is disconnected. It can be easily smelled without trying.
Sorry, but Lindal Valve is a Lindal Valve, there are no differences between them. There may be a problem with the O-ring sealing or becoming kinked, but it's not a problem with the valve.
I have 5 different stoves and I can interchange all the cannisters with all the stoves.
Here is a good article on them.
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-...stove_faq.html
It seems like everyone's personal experiences are a bit different when it comes to canisters. When unscrewing primus cans from my pocket rocket a small puff of gas is released. Only occurs using primus. However the amount released is small. My informal data shows jetboil cans last longest, msr the least. I have a suspition that due to msr making a larger diameter canister to make for a more stable stove platform their cans sacrifice a bit in performance. Their cans are low sided large diameter as compared to the rest. So perhaps canister shape is a factor in performance and efficiency.
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-...stove_faq.html
The EN417 canister specification and Lindal self-sealing valve are a standard adopted by manufacturers throughout the world. Because the Lindal valve is an industry standard, theoretically every brand of screw-threaded canister fuel must work on any brand of screw-threaded stove. There are legal registration requirements in each country to ensure compatibility with the standard.
Some good hints also for checking O rings
I agree with Nick on this one. Screw-thread cannisters are inter-changeable. Various individual manufacturers will try and convince people to ONLY use their brand-name fuel, and there may indeed be slight differences in the fuel mix, but all of the screw-thread cannnisters are completely interchangeable, and I've used different ones for years on different stoves, and never had a problem with performance, fuel leakage, etc. If you feel better using a MSR cannister on a MSR stove, fine, but don't feel bad when you can't. It'll still work fine with a Coleman, SnoPeak, whatever. And contrary to what some folks might think, your JetBoil will also work just fine with a non- JB cannister.
Jack is 100% correct.
Hello, I am new to the forum, but I have been hiking a good while. It seems this is the best palce to ask this question:
Anyone know where I can find accurate weights for gear?
I am working on lightening up my load. I use a Colman Peak 1 Stove from Wally World and the Coleman 70/30 250 canister. I can't seem to find anywhere on the canister the weight when full. Any help is appreciated.
Hike4Life, your best bet would be to get yourself a digital postal scale to weigh them yourself as well as other things in your pack.
If you invert the can while unscrewing the stuve some liquid fuel can get in the space in the stove between the cannister and the adjustment valve. Normally this space would just have expanded gas which is about 1 second of burn time vs maybe 20 second if it is in compact liquid state.
If you here a whistle from the can after detaching the stove then the O ring is not sealing. This can be caused by dirt or the extreme cold caused by the fact that you are dropping pressure of a compressed gas(like in refrigeration process). So after cooking wait 2 minutes before disconecting valve.