How do you know if a dog is ready for a long hike?

[Jaenelle]

How do you know if your dog is ready for a long hike?

Casper is a 2-year-old neutered mutt, poodle mixed with American Eskimo dog. He’s 20 inches high at the shoulder and weighs 23 pounds. He’s well-behaved, has his canine good citizen award, and is working on his Novice Rally Title with the APDT. He is friendly with other animals (dogs, cats, children, small pets) and so far we haven’t had a problem with him chasing wildlife or domestic animals. He’s generally athletic and I’d say he has better endurance that I do. When I’m ready to be done for the day, he still wants me to throw a ball for him to chase. I’ve done day hikes with him and short overnights (2-3 days). He will carry a pack but I generally don’t ask him to carry more than some freeze dried dog treats and his boots if he’s not wearing them, nothing that I couldn’t stuff into my pack or do without if need be. Since I got him a year ago, he’s gone on every hike with me.

I have a 3-week vacation this year. It’s all mine. I’m hoping to start at a point on the AT near where I live (in PA) and hike southbound in no particular hurry until I’m not enjoying myself anymore or my time is up, whichever comes first. Then I’ll call and someone from home will come get me. I did that a couple of times as a teenager, my longest time out was 7 weeks but haven’t gone more than 2-3 nights out since I started doing the full time work + full time college thing.

Honestly, I’m not sure I’m ready to hike for 3 weeks, day hikes and weekend trips don’t really prepare you for that. I’m going to enjoy myself and get away from civilization for a little while. The dog enjoys hikes, trotting down the trail with his nose twitching and his tail up. But how do I know if he’s ready for a long hike?

[sasquatch2014]

I don't think you ever really know 100%. Most dogs can do a lot more than most people will ever ask them to do. As long as you are in tune with your dog and can pay close attention to what they are telling you through their body language you will be fine if it seems like it is too much scale back and take an easy day then see how he does the next day. I know with mine he will loose his appetite about the second or third day on the trail but in another day or so it comes right back.

Have fun and enjoy.

[Rockhound]

He has his leash in his mouth and he's giving you that "what the hell are you still doing just sitting there" look. Seriously he sounds like a good dog. Have a great time

[cowboy nichols]

He sounds well trained and ready. I would only add one comment.Leash your dog when hiking, not because he isn't well trained but for respect for other hikers and also danger from loose dogs with untrained owners.

[JAK]

If your dog starts posting on WB more that 2 or 3 posts a day, he's probably long overdue. lol

[Foyt20]

Hahaha good one Jak.

Which New Brunswick are you located in?

[Cabin Fever]

I am in the same boat right now with two yellow lab pups. They are 5 months old and I am starting to take them out on the trail more. I am up to 3 miles with them and they did great. I am going to try 5 this weekend.

[warraghiyagey]

Hahaha good one Jak.

Which New Brunswick are you located in?

The BIG One. . .

[Rouen]

I am in the same boat right now with two yellow lab pups. They are 5 months old and I am starting to take them out on the trail more. I am up to 3 miles with them and they did great. I am going to try 5 this weekend.

With puppies you dont want to push them too much, especially a large breed pup. Remmeber they are going to be growing for the next 18 months, and too much too young can disable them for life.

[Nean]

I'll be taking one of my dogs who has never been on the trail and think she will do well. Do some research for some helpful hints and pros/cons of hiking w/ a dog right here on good ol' WB!

[Jaenelle]

Oh…he’ll definitely be on leash. I put a lot of work into training him but not every dog we see will be so well trained. Just walking at home is a hazard …too many dogs who aren’t under control and not all of them are friendly.


For short hikes, I’ve been using a light weight 10 foot rope with carabiners tied to each end. I just clip one on his harness and hook the other end around the pack’s waist belt. Do you think that’s too much length? He is good about not getting tangled around trees and I call him into a heel if I see other people or animals…

[SteveJ]

Oh…he’ll definitely be on leash. I put a lot of work into training him but not every dog we see will be so well trained. Just walking at home is a hazard …too many dogs who aren’t under control and not all of them are friendly.


For short hikes, I’ve been using a light weight 10 foot rope with carabiners tied to each end. I just clip one on his harness and hook the other end around the pack’s waist belt. Do you think that’s too much length? He is good about not getting tangled around trees and I call him into a heel if I see other people or animals…

I wouldn't like the extra rope sliding around....which is why I take a flexi-lead. It automatically retracts as I bring her back to me, and no rope laying around to trip over... I guess it might be doable if you don't use hiking poles, but I do, and think I'd need a 3rd (maybe 4th?!) hand to deal with the poles, the dog, and the extra rope in touchy situations.....

[shelterbuilder]

Oh…he’ll definitely be on leash...For short hikes, I’ve been using a light weight 10 foot rope with carabiners tied to each end. I just clip one on his harness and hook the other end around the pack’s waist belt. Do you think that’s too much length? He is good about not getting tangled around trees and I call him into a heel if I see other people or animals…

I've used a 10 ft. tie-out IN CAMP with my dogs (Siberians), but on the trail, it might be a bit too long. I like a 6-ft. lead clipped into a walking harness. The harness falls off of the dog's rump, so you usually have between 4 and 6 ft. between you and the dog. If I have to shorten up on the lead, I just take a loop of it in my hand - I can hold the dog almost at a "heel" position this way. (The harness fits under the dog pack, and if it fits correctly, there is no rubbing.)

It sounds like you're very much "in tune" with your dog, so don't worry - he'll tell you if he's had enough. Judging by the breed description, I think that you'll wear out before he does!

[Jaenelle]

When we got him (from a shelter), we didn't know what he was (until the DNA test later)...except that he was a poodle mix or some other low-shed mutt who didn't irritate my allergies. He was all matted, terrified of his own shadow, and untrained. But once he got some good food in him, he was pure bounce. He pestered other bigger dogs until they chased him and when they were exhausted, he circled back to pester them some more or convince the humans to throw a ball. I threw us into a lot of training out of self defense and to channel some of that energy.

We might try a six-foot leash next time we’re out. I haven’t had trouble with the 10’ foot rope but we haven’t been on the AT; I've been sticking to less used trails. We don’t like the flexi-leads much. On a regular leash or a rope, he walks on a loose leash, never tightening it completely. He heels like a perfect gentleman on and off leash. But when I clip on a flexi, he walks to the end taking up all available slack and starts to pull. It’s most likely a wrinkle in my training but it’s one I’m not sure how to iron out.


Is the type of harness you use?
http://www.ultrapaws.com/pages/Harnesses2.shtml

[Kanati]

The second sadist dog I ever saw was on the AT last year in Maine. His masters, a guy and girl were hiking south out of the Mahoosuc Notch. Their dog was so foot sore he couldn't take another step. They would ask him to "come on" and he would look up at them, lift a paw, and tremble with pain. That pissed me off so bad that I chewed them out on the spot by telling them just how inconsiderate they were, among several other adjectives. They looked at me like they thought I was crazy. I felt like dognapping him and carrying him off the trail. Two other hikers were with me and they told me later they supported what I had done.

So, your dogs conditioning must include toughing the paw pads as that's where he will suffer first and where he will suffer the most. The reason I know is because for many years I owned and hunted pointer bird dogs. Their paws take a beating, even when they are conditioned. Wet conditions soften the dogs paws like they do our feet and hands.

[shelterbuilder]

When we got him (from a shelter), we didn't know what he was (until the DNA test later)...except that he was a poodle mix or some other low-shed mutt who didn't irritate my allergies. He was all matted, terrified of his own shadow, and untrained. But once he got some good food in him, he was pure bounce. He pestered other bigger dogs until they chased him and when they were exhausted, he circled back to pester them some more or convince the humans to throw a ball. I threw us into a lot of training out of self defense and to channel some of that energy.

We might try a six-foot leash next time we’re out. I haven’t had trouble with the 10’ foot rope but we haven’t been on the AT; I've been sticking to less used trails. We don’t like the flexi-leads much. On a regular leash or a rope, he walks on a loose leash, never tightening it completely. He heels like a perfect gentleman on and off leash. But when I clip on a flexi, he walks to the end taking up all available slack and starts to pull. It’s most likely a wrinkle in my training but it’s one I’m not sure how to iron out.


Is the type of harness you use?
http://www.ultrapaws.com/pages/Harnesses2.shtml

I had used a home made harness that's very similar to what's shown on the link page. (These are sled racing harnesses, padded with fleece. Try to keep them as clean as possible, since dirty harnesses can abrade the fur right off of the dog!) If you use a harness, be sure to attach it to the dog's collar with a "double neck line" (also shown on the link page under "skijoring equipment"; these can be made at home with 2 small snap swivels and a short length of hollow-braided polypropelene - follow weaving instructions in the poly-rope package). Attach the first snap to the collar, thread the neck line under the harness at the neck area, and then attach the second snap to the collar, forming a loop around the harness. If your dog figures out how to "back out" of the harness, he's still caught by the collar!

I don't like Flexi-leads either - it's too easy for a dog to lunge and yank the lead right out of your hand! With a regular leash, I put my hand through the loop and leave it around my wrist, and grab the leash wherever it's comfortable. I've NEVER had a dog pull the leash off of my wrist.

I agree with Kanati - pads need constant checking. While you're on that link page, check out the dog booties (the heavy-duty ones). Some dogs don't like them, but they really do protect the dog's feet. Get the ones rated for concrete!!!

[Phreak]

With puppies you dont want to push them too much, especially a large breed pup. Remmeber they are going to be growing for the next 18 months, and too much too young can disable them for life.

Very true. Any strenuous activity before the age of 12 months can adversely affect their joint development.

[Jaenelle]

He's good about letting me check his pads (comes from letting me file his nails, I think...). And he actually has boots already. He looks really silly in them...but they protected his little feet when the roads were extra hot last summer or had that salt stuff on them over the winter. We also use them on some of the gravel-base rail-trails around here. My rule is that if I wouldn't walk on a surface barefoot for an extended period of time, he shouldn't either; I don't always go barefoot when he is...but I try to think about what he's walking on. They only sell one style in the pet store here. Maybe that's why I've gone through 3 pairs in the last year? I'll have to do a bit more research on them and see if ordering more heavy duty ones online would be better. Thanks!

[Kanati]

He's good about letting me check his pads (comes from letting me file his nails, I think...). And he actually has boots already. He looks really silly in them...but they protected his little feet when the roads were extra hot last summer or had that salt stuff on them over the winter. We also use them on some of the gravel-base rail-trails around here. My rule is that if I wouldn't walk on a surface barefoot for an extended period of time, he shouldn't either; I don't always go barefoot when he is...but I try to think about what he's walking on. They only sell one style in the pet store here. Maybe that's why I've gone through 3 pairs in the last year? I'll have to do a bit more research on them and see if ordering more heavy duty ones online would be better. Thanks!

It will be good if you can allow his paws to toughen to handle the normal day to day stuff and gradually build his endurance for the longer days on the trail. It is also good to teach him to accept the booties so that when you feel he needs them he won't protest. My dog Max is a 9 year old black lab. He would hike himself into extreme fatigue if I would let him but I rarely allow him to go more than 5 miles as he has a hip issue that gives him pain. Upon my vets advice, I give him one vitamin-I when we're finished. We play leap frog while hiking.

Happy hiking.

P.S. I love your town and the local people. Met some great guys at breadfast in the diner across from the Doyle.

[shelterbuilder]

Most of the ones made from "fleece only" don't hold up. Look for ones made from Cordura nylon, pack cloth, or ballistic nylon.

NONE of my team EVER liked booties - the booties must have felt wierd. It sure looks funny when a dog tries to run without letting ANY of his feet touch the ground!