Tarptent Notch vs BA Copper Spur UL1

[nickamante]

I'm torn on my choice of tent. I've heard Tarptent recommended often... specifically the Contrail, and as far as weight goes it seems great (24.5oz), but its layout reminds me of the Fly Creek UL1, which I've tried and found cramped (especially in the headroom department). I've been leaning towards the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL1: it's spacious, side entry, and has a generous vestibule and good head clearance, but it is 44oz. I was just browsing the Tarptent site and the Notch actually shares a lot of the aspects I liked about the Copper Spur, but at almost half the weight and a bit cheaper (at the expense of a little less floor space).

Has anyone had experience with both these tents? How do they stack up?

[Drybones]

I could not be happier with the Notch, there's enough room for my needs but no wasted space...I'm 6'1", 180. It goes up fast, comes down fast, no poles to break or put together, good ventilation. I like having two doors, I use a short section of cord with a loop on each end to hang my pack on a pole outside one door so I can swing it inside to get stuff out if needed and get the pack off the ground. I recommend replacing the 6" stakes with 8" since there are only 4 of them.

[Not Sunshine]

The one problem I've had with my notch is how slippery the floor is: Especially with the Tyvec ground sheet. I've remedied this by using silicone. After I seamed sealed my tent, I following instructions to paint lines of thinned silicone on sleeping pad and tyvec - which did NOT work and proved to be completely USELESS.

I re-applied little dots (dime sized) of straight silicone on the bottom of my sleeping pad and on the tyvec, and then purchased and installed 4 grommets into the corners of the tyvec and made loops of thin elastic to attach the corners of tyvec to the corners of the tent - making the whole system attached, and less slippery. Works great now!

[nickamante]

Do you feel like the Tyvec ground sheet is necessary? Their FAQ seems to imply it's not, but I'm not 100% sure I'd want to risk it.

Should I order a groundsheet?It depends on the conditions you expect to encounter and your style of camping. The sewn-in flooring is remarkably tough and does not usually require a separate groundsheet. We just never see floors come back for repair. Tyvek groundsheets are very tough and great for sleeping out or taking a break but generally heavier than you need just for floor protection. For use on very rocky ground and desert conditions where puncture wounds are possible, a light--2 mil plastic is fine--floor protector will do the job.

[Drybones]

Do you feel like the Tyvec ground sheet is necessary? Their FAQ seems to imply it's not, but I'm not 100% sure I'd want to risk it.

The main reason I carry the ground cloth is so I have something to keep me and my gear off the wet ground when I break and to keep the gear out of the leaves where it can get lost. Also to put my sleeping pad on when in a shelter. It's also nice to keep mud off the tent floor. I do use it under the tent but that's not the primary reason I carry it.

[lvnv1212]

I have saw lots of people with the notch on my JMT hike, and they liked the tent a lot.

[English Stu]

On the AT I have used the Contrail and the TT Moment , tthe Moment is better for headroom and I am only 5ft 7in and it is preferable to the Contrails front opening and better performance in stronger weather. Just wish the Notch had been available before the others as I like the look of that.

[nickamante]

Thanks for the opinions... it's close but I'm starting to lean more towards the Notch... Might as well try it out since there's a 90 day return policy.

[ScottC]

I've used both tents. I borrowed my Dad's UL1 last winter for a long weekend section hike and it performed well for me. The setup was a bit fussy (especially by headlamp) and I found that I brushed against the fly often when getting in/out of the tent. I bought a Notch for my next hike and LOVE IT! It is absolutely the quickest shelter I've ever setup. I was using a poncho-tarp before, but the additional weight is well worth it for bug/weather protection.

You won't regret the Notch!!

[nickamante]

Did you use the full mesh interior for your Notch or did you use the partial solid? I'm pretty sold on the Notch at this point but I'm not sure how the full mesh will work out in March on the trail.

[stranger]

The Copper Spur will be overall, more weatherproof, but you are going to have to carry it, I have a Copper Spur and like it, but have not used it very much in recent years.

The Notch is a great design, probably the best design Tarptent has, and very versitile, however I REALLY don't like how the zippers on the fly are exposed to water, regardless of where or not they are located in the vestibule.

Remember companies like Tarptent, Six Moons, Lightheart, etc...uses stock silnylon, meaning the only water protection comes from the impregnated (not coated) strands of fibers that are then weaved together, so the fibers can be separated with pressure and water can be forced through on the floor, something Tarptent and Six Moons are very quick to point out. Something like a Copper Spur still uses silnylon, but in addition to the natural water resistance of silnylon, there is an 'additional' 1200mm waterproof coating, then everything is seam taped as well - this is where the cost comes from.

I don't think you can go wrong with either, but with any ultralight shelters, site selection is going to be an issue, and the AT is full of well packed, bowl shaped campsites that won't drain in heavy rain, but there is no reason why you have to use those sites, there are plenty of virgin campsites waiting out there if you walk 0.2 mile off the trail.

[nickamante]

the AT is full of well packed, bowl shaped campsites that won't drain in heavy rain

I know the Tarptents don't come seam-sealed so I was prepared to do that... do people ever fully seal the bathtub floor or tape their own seams? I'm not sure how much extra weight that would add but I'm not averse to a bit of DIY work.

[stranger]

The issue is not seam sealing, it's water being pushed through the solid floor, if you use elevated, unused campsites with good leaf and duff litter, you are unlikely to have a problem...But any compacted, hard dirt campsite is going to pool water and splash mud.

[nickamante]

I meant would it help to pretty much paint the entire under-side of the bathtub floor with silicon while im doing the seam-sealing?

[hikerinnc]

Love my Notch, it performed much better than I would have expected in a hail and high wind storm in Grayson Highlands. Or course I'm the one who had to pitch not too far from Thomas Knob.

[Kingpongg]

I have the copper spur ul2, not the ul1, and a notch. 5' 11" and 175 lbs.

The notch is a great 1 person tent. Roomy enough and easy setup once you get the hang of it. I've had mine in high winds and rain for a few nights now and had no real issues weathering storms. I had one stake come loose until I replaced them with 8". Very good tent.

I love my BA tent too. It's great when i need a lot of room or if one of my kids is with me. For single person backpacking though, the notch is my preference.

[ronmoak]

Remember companies like Tarptent, Six Moons, Lightheart, etc...uses stock silnylon, meaning the only water protection comes from the impregnated (not coated) strands of fibers that are then weaved together, so the fibers can be separated with pressure and water can be forced through on the floor, something Tarptent and Six Moons are very quick to point out. Something like a Copper Spur still uses silnylon, but in addition to the natural water resistance of silnylon, there is an 'additional' 1200mm waterproof coating, then everything is seam taped as well - this is where the cost comes from.

Techanically that's not true. All silnylon starts with woven uncoated nylon. The coating is applied after the material is woven. There are differences in coating. Domestic silnylon is only available coated by silicone. The fabric is coated on both sides and it is often reffered to as impregnated.

Silnylon available in the asian markets is available with one side coated in silicone and the other side coated in polyurathane. The advantage of this silnylon is that the silicone adds strength to the nylon fiber, while the polyurathane allows the material to be seam taped and it provided and extra degree of waterproofness. Silnylon without the polyurathane layer can not be taped as the tape won't stick to the nylon.

Hope this helps.
Ron

[Drybones]

[QUOTE=stranger;1339896].

Remember companies like Tarptent, Six Moons, Lightheart, etc...uses stock silnylon, meaning the only water protection comes from the impregnated (not coated) strands of fibers QUOTE]

I believe the impregnating is done to the material after it is woven. IMO impregnated material should be much more reliable than coated. The coating can come off, the impregnated material can not, it's locked together from both sides. I recall a post a while back from someone asking how to repair a tent that the coating was coming off of.

[nickamante]

I managed to snag a Copper Spur UL1 for $99 at REI's Garage Sale this weekend, so that was a no-brainier. There's a small crack in the pole but it should be easily fixed or replaced.

After spending some time looking at the Notch I've realized just how much floor space the CS UL1 has... it almost feels excessive. I still may still end up picking up a Notch at some point.

[stranger]

My bad on the impregnation explanation, I was under the impression it was done prior to weaving...stand corrected