Moment of insanity M90 Jacket

[tammons]

A few years ago I built a M90/2.5 XP quilt that was too small. Since then I built a few more.
LOL - I got the bright idea to use that material to build myself a jacket. I had M90 left over, and 2.5 XP and also some 3.7 climashield and 5 xp climasheild.

Got this idea - I bought a Montbell Thermawrap parka and was disappointed in the warrmth for a 17oz XL jacket.
I wanted a removable hood anyway to use with my quilt.

Ordered my pattern and went to work. For those that have never made any clothing, its a lot of parts and hours of pinning and fiddling.
This coat is basically an oversized ski type parka pattern. When I realized I did not need the extra length I shortened it to a
jacket but left it oversized. Did not use the recommended fleece for some parts etc. All just M90 and XP.

XL sized, took me a day just to make the pockets - LOL, but finally got it. I have forgotten now though. Tricky.
Used 2.5 XP in the arms, 5xp on the front, 3.7 XP on the back, 3.7 xp in the collar and 3.7 in the hood.
The hood fastens on with velcro.
I did not use the Wristbands due to just trying to figure out the band and closure gave me a migraine so I simplified it.

At any rate I ran out of M90 and needed an additional yard. This weekend finally decided to finish it and close everything up.

All in all I probably spent 15-20 hours on it mostly trying to get my head around it but it was successful.

Jacket with very high collar weighs 14.8 oz. Hood weighs 2.2 oz, so not bad for a very warm coat.

Next I think I am going to build a M50 primaloft Vest and sleeves for a lighter setup.

Will post a photo later.
If anybody wants the name of the pattern I will post that too.

I will say if you are going to do this, it would be wise to get some cheap cloth and just stitch together a mock shell liner to adjust the size of the pattern where need be. I almost thought I had cut the length too short which would have been a disaster, but its fine.

It was tedious and long but I think it was worth it.

A quilt, hammock or a tarp is childs play after making a jacket.

[avalonmorn]

I know the pain you went through! I have made similar projects, but did not have the nerve or patience to try again, you do!

[leaftye]

Well done. 14.8 ounces is fantastic for an XL hooded down jacket, and much more so for a climashield version. I like the way you varied the thickness of the insulation.

Please do post the name of the pattern. If I make one, I'd use much more insulation in the hood so I wouldn't need any other headgear when using it with a quilt.

[tammons]

LOL - Sew-a-rama.

Forgot to mention I made a 5'4" x 13' long asym seamless hammock tarp last week.

Also modified my M50 modular quilt system by permanently installing a layer of 2.5XP/silk inside the shell. The silk protects the insulation when you open it up.
I can add silk covered liners to that. I have a 5xp liner and will build either a 2.5 liner or 3.7 xp liner.

This is what that rig looks like except this is my old one that I sold. Now I am using nacro biners to tie in the liner.
The new one is almost identical.

http://s195.beta.photobucket.com/use...%20Mod%20Quilt

Also working on a 12 oz frame cuben pack. Been working on that one for 2+ years

HOOD - Yeah now that I have done the hood, that is the easy part although it took me forever to decide exactly how I wanted it to close and fasten to the jacket and the cinch setup.

I ended up modifying the hood so it closes in the front, IE the pieces that were added.

Things I changed.
Hood - made the bottom wrap around under chin and close. Changed the fasteners to baby velcro (I think) and drawcord setup.
Jacket - Made it shorter and changed the cinch at the bottom. Also changed the sleeve ends. Did not install the inner pocket. Two pockets was enough aggravation.
Did not install the zipper flap.

Like I said, I would highly suggest to mock the lining up, especially before you buy a zipper. Mine ended up at 29" for a perfect length. Of course I could not find one so I settled on 28".

I could have cut the collar down 1" in the front since it is huge and it would have fit better.

Still have to stitch each side of the zipper.
One nice thing about this is once you have built it, you know how to get into it to make changes/add insulation etc.

The pattern is a Jalie #2108 Winter Jacket.

Here are some pictures.

http://s195.beta.photobucket.com/use...library/Jacket

[tammons]

It is actually 17oz with the hood. Still fine by me.

Well done. 14.8 ounces is fantastic for an XL hooded down jacket, and much more so for a climashield version. I like the way you varied the thickness of the insulation.

Please do post the name of the pattern. If I make one, I'd use much more insulation in the hood so I wouldn't need any other headgear when using it with a quilt.

[tammons]

EDIT - Making a few more changes.

Going to add a little more insulation to the collar.

Going to trim down the sleeves. They are rediculous large.

Since I will have to open up the end of the sleeves to make them smaller I might change that closure setup.

Realized that walking along a trail or actually anywhere, with the hood hanging off the back only attached with velcro and it will be gone.
Needs a mechanical fastener, although I do like the velcro. Think I will do a button and loop at both ends of the velcro.

[leaftye]

Do you have a mitten hook? Attach it to one end of your cinch strap. Tie a loop on the other end. When you're wearing it, attach the mitten hook to the loop on the other end. There's no way you'll lose the hood when you're using that unless you forget to attach the ends together.

[tammons]

Good idea.
I do have a few of those micro plastic carabiners for keys.