Thread Question

[JonathanJ]

Hey,

I'm going to be making a heavy-duty canvas portage pack, Duluth style. I'm wondering what thread would be best to use for sewing on the canvas parts? I have an old Singer if that matters. For the areas that I'll be using leather/rivets I'll probably just use my artificial sinew.

Thanks!

[Maui Rhino]

The heaviest thread most home sewing machines are rated for is usually #69. It will require the biggest needle you can fit in your machine. Usually, that is a size 18 needle, although I've heard that you can find a size 20 needle in the 15x1 that a lot of domestic machines use. In my gear making, I most often use #69 thread and a size 21 needle in my industrial walking foot machine. If you are running a smaller needle, you may need to get more top tension on the thread to get the stitches to balance out. Try wrapping the thread twice thru the tension discs.

[HeartFire]

upholstery thread will be about the heaviest you will find in regular home sewing sectors and will work just fine for you - you may have to adjust the bobbin tension to get an even /balanced stitch.

[Rain Man]

I used to sew leather patches on knees of "denim" overalls back in my caving days. Wife and I bought a heavy-duty home sewing machine with a low gear. Even it had a hard time.

If you have to fold that canvas (and you will) and at the corners or seams go through 4 layers of fabric, you are going to have a very, very hard time of it with a regular home machine. Very few will handle the kind of "cord" (not "thread") that you may be imagining.

You'll just have to practice and see, but don't get frustrated if it simply will not work on the machine you have.

Rain Man

.

[DeerPath]

I've often wondered if one could use 10 lb. braided fishing line. It is VERY STRONG, and about the diameter of heavy thread.

[HeartFire]

The problem with fishing line is it tends to stretch, - any monofillament thread - gets tangled very easily.

YOu can get a walking foot attachment to attach to the machine that may help with the sewing, and yes, going over seams will be quite bulky.

[Maui Rhino]

One way to reduce layer build up at corners is to cut the corner at a 45 degree across the seam allowance. When you fold the seam allowance over, the fabric doesn't overlap itself in the corner. Kind of hard to explain without a picture, but lets say you have a 1/2" seam allowance. You want to fold that over to hide the raw edge. Draw a line 1"in from the edge, that you will fold your fabric to, which will give you your 1/2" SA. If you draw that line around every edge, you will end up with a 1" square box on the corner. Draw another line across the box at a 45 and cut that corner off. When you fold in your seam allowance, they will meet up without overlap in the corner, eliminating some unnecessary layers.

[Maui Rhino]

Here are a couple of pics to illustrate what I was talking about.
IMG_1295.jpgIMG_1293.jpgIMG_1294.jpg

[bobtomaskovic]

I've fished with 10# braid quite a bit. I think it's a braided spectra thread that has the same dia. as 2# mono. It is a lot limper than monofilament too. I know nothing about machine sewing just fishing line.