Newbie planning a 5-Day trip to Appalachians in NC (Advice?)

[bebo189]

Hello All,

I'm a new member of the forum looking for some feedback. I looking to plan a 5 day backpacking trip around May 23-27th this year. My brothers and one of their friends will be flying out to Charlotte where I live and we'll be driving to the mountains.

Still trying to narrow down where in the mountains we'd like to have our route be. A couple of options I see are along the AT, Great Smoky Mountain National Park (not along AT), or in the Pisgah National Forest. Since this is the AT forum, I'd like to get some advice regarding the AT (probably running through GSMNP). Would we be running into a lot of Thru-hikers, or have the mostly come through earlier? Does the trail through the park run through a lot of areas where tourists and crowds will be or is it somewhat out of range? From what I can tell, the temps will range from the 50s to maybe the 80s during the day. Does this sound about right? What about rainfall around that time? Also, is there decent access to water for purification?

Hopefully I'm not inundating ya'll with questions. If any one has info on other trails in the park or in the Pisgah National forest, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks in advance,
Jeremy

[bigcranky]

The Smokies are a major PITA to hike, especially for a newbie. You are required to stay in shelters, required to have reservations, and thus required to know exactly how far you will hike each day. Yes, it's a lovely park, bit logistically not so much.

However, there are some terrific hikes both north and south of the Smokies. If I had to recommend just one hike, I would say to park at Fontana Dam, right by the visitor center, and hike southbound on the AT. It's about 55 miles to US 64 at Winding Stair Gap, which makes a decent 5-day hike assuming you can hike all of each day (and aren't constrained by driving time, etc.) Now this is a fairly tough hike through the Nantahala Mountains - you'll get plenty of good climbs and descents, but also some great views from fire towers and bald mountain tops. Halfway through the hike you can resupply at Nantahala Outdoor Center -- either by sending them a mail drop or by leaving a package there on the drive to Fontana Dam. You can also get a great restaurant meal, and stay in their bunkhouse for a nominal charge. Hot showers and cold drinks look pretty good after a couple of days on the trail.

When you get to US 64, you can get a ride back to your car from either Rob Haven in Franklin, NC, or from Jeff and Nancy Hoch from The Hike Inn, back near the dam. Of course you'll need to contact them before the hike to make arrangements for the shuttle, but that's easily done. Or you could leave a car there on the drive up if you have a second car available.

All of this is going to be about 4 hours from Charlotte.

Good luck.

[Theosus]

What about the panthertown trails? It's close to the border with south carolina (lake toxaway). The trails meander all over and reconnect. You could do 4-5 days in there and loop back to the beginning so you don't need to shuttle, and you won't be dealing with the thru-hiker bubble. I'll have some pictures up soon, I'm going this weekend.

[fins1838]

First thing I would do is look at the elevation you may be climbing & type of terrain you'll be walking. Thats the mistake I made on my 1st trip. I looked for convenience in parking & access to trail. When I got to the trail I was faced with a 600 ft steep, rocky climb. Almost quit right there. But now I'm doing week at a time hikes regularly. Just throwing in my 2 cents.

[bebo189]

Thanks @Big Cranky. I saw the Shuttle list posted on the site. I'm wondering if I decide do something not on the AT, if many of the same individuals and companies would do shuttle service around the Asheville area (Pisgah national forest, or Nanthala southward)

@Theosus - Look forward to seeing some pics.

@fins1838 - I hear ya. I've definitely planned out some routes where I knew the elevation changes using trimbleoutdoors.com beforehand (a backpacking trip to the Wind River Range in Wyoming) and the 2nd day of the trip we ended up having to use our alternate route because the terrain was too strenuous. After doing that, I'm thinking in general the Appalachians should be a little more forgiving, if even for the sheer difference in elevation.

I am also hoping to work some waterfalls into the route I end up mapping out.

[MuddyWaters]

My 13yo son and I are looking at the Franklin - Fontana section during that time period too. From a few things Ive seen posted here by others, it sounds like a great section.

If it gets strenuous, you just go slower. I havent encountered anything Id call "too" strenuous yet, anywhere on a marked trail. That includes climbing mountains where it was take 10 steps, stop and rest, take 10 steps, stop and rest, all the way to the top, where you almost were hand-over-hand at points. Eventually, you make it. Those really steep climbs are usually only a couple hundred feet. And the walk down the otherside is soooooo much nicer afterwards.

[aaronthebugbuffet]

The Smokies have hundreds of miles of trails that aren't the AT. You could use the AT as part of a loop but you don't need to focus on it.


The trails in the Appalachians can be as strenuous and rough as the Winds but you wont be dealing with any added stress of the higher elevation. You probably won't be dodging lightning as much either.

[Papa D]

Hire me as a guide - I'm totally serious. I know the AT and tons of wilderness trails in NC. I can also bring a lot of extra gear and help fill-in on your outfitting. I'll cook you gourmet meals and get you acclimated to doing this on your own - I'm serious - private message me.

[MuddyWaters]

It didnt appear a few of your questions were answered:

Would we be running into a lot of Thru-hikers, or have the mostly come through earlier? From what I have read in others trail journals, you will still find quite a few late thru hikers and lots of section hikers in the smokies in late may. Full shelters are possible.

Does the trail through the park run through a lot of areas where tourists and crowds will be or is it somewhat out of range? Quite a few section hikers, and lots of tourists at Clingmans dome, memorial day kicks off the summer season so I would plan to be out of there by then

From what I can tell, the temps will range from the 50s to maybe the 80s during the day. Does this sound about right? Yes, but it could easily be 40 's on high peaks too during the day, or even 30s at night. For a short trip, the weatherman should have a clue though , you shouldnt get surprised.

What about rainfall around that time? You do know the smokies are the 2nd wettest place in the US?? You could have a week of sun, or a week of rain, or anything in between. Thats what sucks about section hiking there, if it rains you cannot shift schedule and get new shelter reservations at last minute.

Also, is there decent access to water for purification? Water no problem , buy the AT guide, tells you where almost all the water sources are on the AT. What it doesnt tell you is when that source is a muddy puddle not fit for a hog to try to drink from.

[neonshaw]

I did a 70 mile section from Erwin to Hot Springs last year. nice part of the trail.

[Pottsalot]

If you want to come back east a little from the smokey mnts, i recommend hiking in and setting upat camp at 1 of the primitive campsites at Harpers creek. Really nice loop sections in that area.

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[sevensixtwo187]

The Smokies are great but as others have pointed out, hiking there has it's "issues". Take a look at Shinning Rock & the Art Loeb trail in Pisgah. We had a wonderful time hiking to Cold Mountain there the fall before last.

[bebo189]

So 10 miles a day is a practical pace?

[Moose2001]

The Smokies are a major PITA to hike, especially for a newbie. You are required to stay in shelters, required to have reservations, and thus required to know exactly how far you will hike each day. Yes, it's a lovely park, bit logistically not so much.

However, there are some terrific hikes both north and south of the Smokies. If I had to recommend just one hike, I would say to park at Fontana Dam, right by the visitor center, and hike southbound on the AT. It's about 55 miles to US 64 at Winding Stair Gap, which makes a decent 5-day hike assuming you can hike all of each day (and aren't constrained by driving time, etc.) Now this is a fairly tough hike through the Nantahala Mountains - you'll get plenty of good climbs and descents, but also some great views from fire towers and bald mountain tops. Halfway through the hike you can resupply at Nantahala Outdoor Center -- either by sending them a mail drop or by leaving a package there on the drive to Fontana Dam. You can also get a great restaurant meal, and stay in their bunkhouse for a nominal charge. Hot showers and cold drinks look pretty good after a couple of days on the trail.

When you get to US 64, you can get a ride back to your car from either Rob Haven in Franklin, NC, or from Jeff and Nancy Hoch from The Hike Inn, back near the dam. Of course you'll need to contact them before the hike to make arrangements for the shuttle, but that's easily done. Or you could leave a car there on the drive up if you have a second car available.

All of this is going to be about 4 hours from Charlotte.

Good luck.

+1 on Big Cranky's suggestion. It's a beautiful section that will give you lots of great views and experiences. Looks like he's got all the logistics figure out for you as well!

[bigcranky]

So 10 miles a day is a practical pace?

Yeah, but like anything else, it depends. It depends on your physical shape, the weight of the pack you are carrying, the terrain, and what sort of hike you want to do. But a range of 8-12 miles per day is a reasonable guess.

[Theosus]

I just did two days here... Nice place, not too strenuous if you don't want it to be. Just plan your route...

http://theosus1.wordpress.com/2012/0...-in-the-woods/

[jbsbestfan]

Check the mileage, but is there really a better section in the NC area than Indian Grave Gap to 19E taking you through the Roan Highlands. Grayson highlands area near Damascus is awesome also. Only problem with the smokies is that you have to stay in shelters.

[Papa D]

So 10 miles a day is a practical pace?

10 miles a day is a fine pace - - that would seem slow to a lot of long-distance AT hikers but for a new group of hikers and (presumably) campers, it might even be ambitious but this all depends on the terrain you choose. Pisgah Ranger District is a nice choice because you can do a loop - or series of loops. The Art Loeb trail will probably be included in most Pisgah Ranger District backpacking trips. The AT might (or might not) be graded easier than some Pisgah RD trails - depending on where you go, but you will have to arrange a shuttle to / from your starting point.

[Whack-a-mole]

There is another nice section right below the one Big Cranky was talking about. Hwy 64 out of Franklin at Winding Stair-head south to Dicks Creek at Hiawassee is a nice 4 day hike. Continue on to Unicoi gap adds two days. Road access is good and good places to park. My wife and I will be doing the short 17mi section from Unicoi up to Dicks that same weekend. This is a beautiful area. The area up around Roan Mtn is spectacular. That's one of the great problems we have is too many choices! One thing to remember about starting out is that it is almost always physically hard. When they cut roads in, they are doing it the easiest and cheapest way. Most -not all-but most roads will go through a gap, and that's where the parking is. Since most of the AT is along ridgetops, the first thing you have to do out of the car is climb hard from the low gap, to the top of the ridge. It can be a real gut check, but once you reach the ridge top, and get your legs under you, the cruising gets a lot better. When we do the section out of Unicoi, it is a double mtn straight out of the parking lot. That will be a low mileage day for us with lots of breaks, but that also means we will have to spend a little more time enjoying the view! Good luck with your hike!

[JaxHiker]

I like the section around Franklin. I have information on Deep Gap to NOC on my blog from last year. Nice hike. It was in your duration range but the exact distance escapes me at the moment.

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