beginer ice climbing

[pawlinghiker]

I was interested in trying some easy ice climbing ( if there is such a thing ) . Do you always needs ropes ?

I dont have any real experience with harnesses or tying off etc...

Are there any local places in the NY/CT area ?

[MuddyWaters]

google ice climbing schools in the desire area and you will probably find some, Alpine Endeavors comes right up, in the catskills.

I did it in Colorado many yrs ago. Instruction is always a good way to start.

[Slo-go'en]

Ice climbing takes some specialized equipment. Best to hire an instructer/guide and rent gear to start, they often come as a package. Some friends of mine used to climb a lot in "The Gunks", which is somewhere in NY I belive. I did a big 20 foot climb once. It was fun, but ice climbing is a pretty expensive sport to really get into. Can be dangerous too.

As for difficulty, it comes in all grades. Easy to ultra extrem.

[4eyedbuzzard]

You might want to (or be required to) start with a basic alpine climbing school to learn belaying, self arrest, glacier travel first. Often you'll need those skills to get to and from where you're doing actual ice climbing.

[garlic08]

Yeah, vertical water ice is a specialized thing. Even here in Colorado, I've heard of "The Gunks," a real classic area.

"Ice climbing" can mean different things. It can be as "easy" as steep frozen snow on an alpine hike, where hinged twelve-point crampons and one ice axe are sufficient (that's all I've ever done). You're probably visualizing rigid crampons, plastic boots, two ice tools, harness, rope, and screws--very expensive and difficult, and dangerous (and not for me).

[colorado_rob]

Yes, on the "ropes" question, though there is plenty of extreme ice climbing with unroped free soloing... Yikes! Anyway, I taught here in CO, and I'm only familiar with what goes on here, sorry, but there are actual indoor ice instruction places these days to get you the basics. You can certainly get the basics of top-roped climbing in gyms, really no different in many of the procedures between ice and wall/rock top-roping. The equipment is rather expensive, but can be rented. Ice climbing is really fun and not particularly dangerous if all safety measures taken. In many ways EASIER than rock because on good ice you make your on holds pretty much where ever you want. Biggest unique danger is falling ice in crowded park, like Ouray. My wife took a hit on her shoulder a few yeas ago.

[JAK]

I would start by climbing warm waterfalls, then progress to colder and colder waterfalls.

[Slo-go'en]

I would start by climbing warm waterfalls, then progress to colder and colder waterfalls.

Actually, it is a lot easier to climb a very cold waterfall then a warm one. Not quite as wet for one thing :)

[Toolshed]

I agree with hitting a climbing gym first and learning the basics of climbing - knots, belaying, holds and such.. get comfortable smearing and edging and using your legs to climb (not your arms) , keeping your hips in,...etc. Get comfortable with heights. Learn about rope types harnesses and hardware. Once you are fully vetted on the basics of climbing , then consider going on a few daytrips with experienced and licensed outfitters. to learn ice climbing. also pick up the book "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills" and read it. It will offer some guiance, though not so much about big wall or ice climbing as much as common sense information about backcountry equipment, travel and first aid.

[pawlinghiker]

i was thinking rather flat type climbing, one axe type, maybe tied in to be safe but def not vertical

Ive been reading and dont think Im there physically

[Another Kevin]

pawlinghiker: How are you with snowshoes and spikes? Our part of the world has lots of terrific winter hiking that involves ice and snow but is reasonably non-technical - spikes or 10-point crampons and poles is the order of the day for most people. It's possible to do the whole Catskill 35 in the winter without an ice axe if you wait for favorable weather. I'm always looking for partners, because soloing in the winter is beyond my personal level of risk tolerance, particularly on bushwhacks. And winter is the best season for bushwhacking - the nettles have died back, the leaves are down so you can see where you're going, and you can cruise on snowshoes over stuff that in the summer threatens to roll an ankle with every step. For me, that sort of "technical hiking" is more fun than real climbing is.

I'm busy for the next few weeks because my daughter will be in town, but maybe after that, we can head over to the Catskills and try a winter ascent or three? Slow pace and short miles will be the order of the day because that's all I do. And no more than a day trip or overnighter, because I'm not really geared up for surprises from the weather. If it's forecast 20F and goes down to 0F, I'm fine. If it's forecast 5F and goes down to -15F, I might be in trouble. The peaks can be capricious sometimes and I treat them with respect.

[pawlinghiker]

that sounds awesome

I have a pair of snow shoes I was also looking to maybe camp one not so frigid night.

PM me to set something up.

[garlic08]

i was thinking rather flat type climbing, one axe type, maybe tied in to be safe but def not vertical

Ive been reading and dont think Im there physically

In that case, getting in shape and hiking with friends is probably your best bet. I picked up tips from the book mentioned in post #9, and practiced on safe slopes with experienced friends and other climbers I met along the way. Pay attention to crampon safety.

But most important, get out there and have fun! Snow introduces some difficulties, but like AK says, reduces many others. A good snowpack can make a horrible summer scree slope lots of fun, for instance.

[jred321]

EMS runs some intro courses around NY and New England http://www.emsoutdoors.com/ice-climbing-mountaineering/

[Starvin Marvin]

Hey Pawling, you can also check out Rock and Snow, located in New Paltz, near the Gunks. They should be able to steer you in the right direction.

AK...I would be up for some winter Catskill backpacking. My SO and I have done 24/35 plus the 4 winter trails so far. Maybe you can shoot me a PM when you have your plans figured out, and i'll see if we are available. I agree, it is easier with snow on the ground.

[James GAME2009]

I am a fairly serious ice climber and have climbed extensively in NY, both the Catskills and Adirondacks. You're in a pretty decent place to be an ice climber and the season is on! It sounds like you're interested in lower-angle, more mountaineering type ice climbing, rather than long vertical ice. The Catskills hold a number of amazing ravine climbs that are perfect for the overall mountaineering type experience. They are suitable for a beginner, as long as the beginner is with someone experienced. I would highly recommend Buttermilk Falls.

In the Adirondacks are a number of slides, most notably Trap Dike and the new Cascade Slide. The North Face of the Gothics is a traditional mountaineering alpine type outing as well. My recommendation would be Trap Dike or the Cascade Slide first. The Cascade Slide has a five minute approach while Trap Dike has a five mile approach. All of these options will require technical know-how and technical gear. Ice climbing is not as safe as rock climbing. There is always some element of danger, which can be managed quite well with experience, training, and guidance.

You may find that you love the movement and challenge of ice climbing and choose to pursue steeper, more challenging objectives over time. Absolutely do not go out and buy the gear you need. It is tremendously expensive and figuring out what to buy can be very challenging with so many options on the market. Go out for a guided day or weekend. In the Catskills I would recommend Alpine Endeavors and in the Adirondacks I would recommend Rock and River. These guide services will provide you with all the necessary equipment, keep you safe, and provide a fun, informational outing.

As for what people are saying about the Gunks - the Gunks are an amazing rock climbing destination but do not hold much ice. They get a lot of sun and it takes prolonged, very cold temperatures for the few ice climbs there to form. Have fun out there!