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greenaisles
02-03-2014, 00:30
Hey all,

Looking to do this loop (http://www.backpacker.com/destinations/hikes/247305) with three others from March 2-6. We have a lot of experience backpacking in New England but none of us have been to the Smokies. We've been doing research on what to expect but it is always good to hear from people who have firsthand experience. What will the trails be like this time of year? Any tips regarding the itinerary? Anything is appreciated.

Thanks.

George
02-03-2014, 03:39
wide variety of possible weather (10-75) but almost for sure some precipitation in a 4 day period that time of year - newfound gap road has frequent closures so do not rely on access

HooKooDooKu
02-03-2014, 03:49
Thought provoking itinerary. In some ways, very interesting, yet in other ways... not.

The single biggest comment to make is that the mountains will be brown (or white if you get snow). The park doesn't begin to wake from its winter slumber until sometime in April. This itinerary takes you to some of the highest elevations in the park at a time of year where the AVERAGE hi/lo temps at upper elevations is 40º/20º where the actual weather could be +/- 20º.

I'm very familiar with the trails on LeConte. I'm not familiar with the area once you leave LeConte until you get back on the AT heading towards New Found Gap.

General comments:
Alum Cave is a great trail. Arch Rock and Alum Cave will be great to see. The trail gets VERY steep after that.

I don't know if the hike all the way down to Rainbow Falls and back up is worth it. Most the times I've been by it, the flow has been just a trickle. The water falls claim to fame is that it has the single longest drop of any falls in the park. But like I said, it generally hasn't been that great of a waterfall to see (exception... might be when weather is right and the falls freeze).

Did the loop talk about watching sunset from Cliff Tops? Located about due west from the LeConte Shelters, a trail should be marked (not sure exactly where, I always go to Cliff Tops from LeConte Lodge).

Did the loop talk about watching sunrise from Myrtle Point? To get to Myrtle Point, go to the top of Mt. LeConte (High Point) and then head down Boulevard trail for about 0.15 miles. A trail intersection should be labelled taking you to the right.

Did the loop talk about "The Jump Off"? This is a trail located within 0.1 miles from the intersection of The Boulevard and the AT. It will be off to the left and is a dead-end trail about 2/3 of a mile long. It takes you to a cliff where it feels like you're looking form a 1,000' drop.

I don't know how interesting the day going out to Mt. Collins (after crossing 441) is going to be. I've hiked from New Found Gap to the intersection you finally head down at Road Prong Trail and don't recall anything remarkable about it. It also seems a shame that you would hike all the way out to Mt. Collins without going further out to see Clingman's Dome. But then again, if you hike on to the Dome, then you're committed to hiking on to Double Spring Gap to camp.

Now that leads to another interesting question, especially since it looks like the loop has you hike down to Rainbow Falls and back up... exactly what nights are you staying at what campsites/shelters? The reason I ask is because you can not stay at LeConte shelter, hike down to Rainbow Falls and back up and stay at LeConte shelter a second night. You are not allowed to camp at the same shelter two nights in a row. That is why you can't stay at Mt.Collins and hike out to Clingman's Dome without committing to Double Springs or some other campsite. That means the day you hike to Rainbow Falls, you're going to have to put in over 15 miles on some hilly terrain.

I do love the ending of this loop as it takes you to Chimney Tops. IMHO, the best view of the whole park is found there. I think it's because you hike out to this mountain peninsula right in the middle of the mountains. Where as LeConte and Clingman's dome take you to mountain tops... other than seeing the vast expanse in front of you, there is nothing to see because all the other mountains are miles and miles away. But at Chimney Tops, the mountains surround you and seem to be right in your face. Mt. LeConte itself will be only 3 miles on the other side of the valley. However, the down side of Chimney Tops is that what used to be the "easy" way to get out on the rocks at the some to see the view has been closed because too much vegetation was getting pulled off and eroded off the mountain. So now to see the view, you have to climb up an exposed rock face that is on a 45º to 60º angle. I tried it once with camera gear strapped on my back, and felt too much off balance. Can't see doing it with heavy back packs. But then I've been amazed to see what I would consider "kids" that parents have taken them up there.

Like I say, I don't know much once the trail takes you towards Charlie's Bunion... but it seems to me, given the distances you want to cover... there are perhaps better hikes you could do than this itinerary.

Now I must say, I've never looked at a 60 mile trip (my trips are usually 3 day trips). But like I said, you're missing out on Clingman's Dome... and several other things. If I were planning out this trip... especially since it takes you back to the road and into the woods again, you might want to think about breaking the trip into two. Unless someone has some great things to say about what lies beyond Charlie's Bunion, I would suggest after spending the night at Ice Water Springs Shelter, you hike out to see Charlie's Bunion and do a U-Turn back out to 441 (skipping everything past the Bunion). Once you get to 441, I would suggest either hopping in a car and heading out to Cades Cove and do a 2nd loop that takes you over Gregory Bald... or perhaps even better, try this "loop":

Park a car at the Gregory Ridge Trail Head. Drive a 2nd car to start your hike at Alum Cave Trail Head. Hike up to LeConte Shelter for your 1st night. The Jump Off will allow you to see similar mountains that Charlie's Bunion will (you just don't get to see the Bunion), so head to Mount Collins for your 2nd night. Move on to Derrick Knob for the 3rd night after crossing over Clingman's Dome. The 4th day will take you over Thunderhead Mountain and spend your next night at Mollies Ridge. The 5th day will take you over Gregory Bald and campsite #13. 6th day, hike down Gregory Ridge trail to pickup your 2nd car. Drive back to Alum Cave for the 1st car, but stop at the trail head for Chimney Tops that you can finish off as a day hike. The only thing that might make THAT trip better would be to wait until Late April to Late May when temperatures will stay above freezing and you'll get some views of flowers.

HooKooDooKu
02-03-2014, 04:07
Can't believe after all that rambling, I forgot to warn you about the Alum Cave Trail. The upper sections are pretty wet... with several seeps coming off the side of the mountain. Nothing much to concern yourself with in 3-season weather. But in early March, that water can very well be frozen. There's cables in the rock to hold onto at the most treacherous parts. But that's just designed to keep you from sliding off the side of the mountain. Never done that trail in winter, so I can't say exactly how bad it may or may not be... but it's something to concern yourself with... ask others, as well as call the Back Country office and get there input on a trip like this for that time of the year.

gollwoods
02-05-2014, 17:22
going east to pecks and down to bradley fork is ok but turning right and going up and down over to kephart then back to A T seems excessive. I'd look at just going on to smokemont then to newton bald and either up to the road and newfound gap or maybe a trip up deep creek still a long walk

Slo-go'en
02-05-2014, 17:35
I think the trip your planning would be best done in May, not the beginning of March. Those side trails coming off the ridge line are really steep and if they have ice/snow on them which is very likely, it will be a tough climb. If you do go March 2/3 be ready to call it off due to weather. You don't want to be caught in a late winter storm there, which can dump a couple of feet of wet snow in 24 hours.

madgoat
02-05-2014, 18:19
We used to do our smokies backpacking trips in early to mid march on our college spring breaks. Even after we graduated, we kept going down in early spring.... but we got tired of the variability in the weather. Now we shoot for May or October.

If you go in early March, be prepared for lows in the 20's, be prepared for rain, be prepared for snow. I have had several great Smokies backpacking trips during that time of year, just be prepared for the conditions.

moldy
02-05-2014, 20:23
Check this page out then the 3 days later.
http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=395671

Ox97GaMe
02-05-2014, 20:47
A couple things to think about....
- Early March you are likely to still have snow, or encounter snow during your trip, especially at the higher elevations.
- March and April are the rainy season in the park. On average, the park gets 5 rainy days per week. Expect to see precipitation of some sort. Be prepared for cold, wet weather (Hyperthermia type weather)
- Earlly March may be before the thru hiker season in the park, but you may still have the spring break crowd. March is VERY busy in the park, especially on the popular trails such as the AT, LeConte, and Cades Cove area. Less popular areas would be around Gregory Bald, Mauldron Bald, High Rocks, and Balsam Mtn.