View Full Version : Homemade tarp pitched
Finally made something usable. See link for pictures of the tarp I made in my gallery.
http://www.whiteblaze.net/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/6255 (http://www.whiteblaze.net/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/6255)
justusryans
09-25-2005, 18:18
cool, looks good!
Just Jeff
09-25-2005, 23:54
Aw, come on, bug...you know you can't post something like this without all the details! It's illegal!
7.2 oz is very light...is that with or without seam seal?
Size, material, type of ridgeline seam, etc...all the good stuff!
Very nice looking project.
Just Jeff - You are right! Sorry, I was in a hurry...
Anyways, the tarp is made with 1.1 oz silnylon that I found in the bargain bin at Walmart. There is no seam sealing as of yet - since the tarp is only 5x8, there's no ridgeline seam (an 8x10 caternary curve tarp will be my next big project). The 7.2 oz was measured on the postal scale that we use at work, and includes just the tarp itself - no lines or stakes (I haven't finalized what kind of hardware I'll use yet). The corner tie-out reinforcements are just made of some 2.2 oz ripstop that I had leftover from another project. I further lined the corners with grosgrain ribbon at these reinforcement points. The rest of the perimeter is just a simple hem. The best part - it only cost about $6 in materials. We'll see if it's really waterproof... Thanks for your interest!
Finally made something usable. See link for pictures of the tarp I made in my gallery.
http://www.whiteblaze.net/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/6255 (http://www.whiteblaze.net/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/6255)
Nice job! Light too! Wish I could ldo stuff like that. :)
hey, believe me - if I can do this, ANYONE can do it. I have a $50 sewing machine and 0 experience.
Great work, bugbomb. It looks great. You mentioned making a bigger one in the future. What will this one be mostly used for?
I've made and used a couple of tarps and have never seam-sealed them. Water would much, much rather just run down the side than work into some pinhole beneath three layers of fabric. A pack-cover or something with more places to pool water and to have material contacting it underneath needs it, but I've always found that you can get away with anything with a tarp.
Tarps are about the simplest things you can make, but they sure can be a pain. Cutting and hemming ten-foot seams with slippery material like silnylon can be a real challenge. My first tarp worked like a champ, but had seams only a mother could love.
I'm considering making a tarp with caternary-cut sides myself. Be sure to let us know how that works out and to post any tips or tricks you find along the way.
Austexs, he's right. I'm starting to get better, but when I started making outdoor stuff, I had zero sewing experience and screwed up constantly, but was still able to make very useable stuff right from the start.
Great job, again. Thanks for the pictures.
titanium_hiker
09-26-2005, 12:00
ummm... I made the mistake of not seam sealing my tarp (center ridgeline seam) and... it meant I was sleeping inside that night (good thing I wasn't out hiking somewhere when it happened)
looks good bug- kinda small, but I guess you're not living in it, just sleeping in it. :) are those your treking poles or just some random sticks you had lying around? would you plan on using poles on a hike? can it attach to trees? can you vary the pitch and if so, what is your fav? (a frame, sloped down at one end)
titanium
That's interesting, ti. I've never had a problem and I've used it in every kind of weather. Seams maybe? Mine are lap-felled, triple stitched. Maybe I'm just lucky.
People talk about pitching with poles, etc, but I've always easily found trees on the AT. I do a lot of river trips, where we usually camp on rocky beaches. I don't have poles with me then, obviously, but I've never had trouble pitching mine with found wood. Always seems shaky at first, but I've never had one fail.
Again, good job. Keep in mind that if you're cutting the ridge-line catenary you'll be limiting your pitching angles somewhat. I'm making one for my hammock and I plan on cat-cutting the sides, but leaving the ridge flat so I can pitch it anywhere from almost straight out to battened down for storms.
What does everyone do to cut long, straight seams? I've tried folding and cutting along the fold as well as measuring several points along the side and marking it. I thought of using a chalk-line snapper (or whatever they're called). Anyone done this? I've heard a lot of people who use the kitchen tiles. I like the sound of this, but our kitchen is like three feet wide, so I haven't tried it yet.
Patrick - thanks for your feedback. I had not considered the reduced flexibility of putting a cat curve at the ridgeline. Now that I think about it, it would seem that you are exactly right. Most of the tarps that I had looked at that incorporated this design element most successfully were intended for hammocking, where the range of pitches is (and can be!) less varied. Do you think that silnylon's stretchiness would counteract this, and allow a cat curve to benefit in all situations? The other thing that I was very happy about with my tarp was how well it conformed to a general caternary curve even without a ridgeline seam, especially once i staked out the sides. I'm still figuring out the best way to do straight lines - sewing the long straight seams actually proved pretty easy, but cutting them would be nightmarish. In my case, I lucked out since I only really had to cut across the 5-foot side. Making a 10-foot cut would have been less fun. I just marked, connected the dots, held my breath and cut.
Titanium_hiker - I plan to use this as a solo, fair-weather shelter. The sticks are just some bamboo poles that I filched from a local stand. That stuff is seriously strong, given the weight. I need to mess around a bit and see if I can't come up with the right diameter for some ultralight, one-piece, virtually free trekking poles. I can see it now... Ben's $50 ultralight challenge!
As far as the pitch, the configuration that you see seems to be the best if the wind isn't harsh. One modification that I need to make (as soon as this week's exams are done!) is a set of ridgeline tie-outs. This way, I could stake the back end all the way to the ground (into the wind if it gets gusty) and just pull up the back of the ridgeline to give some stability and footroom. Tie-outs weight practically nothing, so, other than the fact that I'll be forced to seal them, there's really no downside to adding more than I'll use. I already have 9, and will probably add 3-6 more as I see fit. It could attach to trees very easily, which is good, since up to this point I have hiked without poles of any kind.
No problem. I'm only parroting what smarter people have already said.
I think there's still a good variation in hammock tarps. One way I've found I like that I never did on the groud is lee side up high and wind side down low or even both sides tied to the windward side.
I agree that if you have a good cut, the seams aren't hard. One thing that really tripped me up early was thinking I could get away with a raggedy cut and then tighten it up in the seams when I sewed. That way lies madness. Cut well and you'll save yourself a world of trouble. Also, pins have become my very best friend. I even use them when making the smallest stuff sacks. I like everything to be as no-brainy as possible.
I don't think silnylon's stretchiness is going to help you. It might do the reverse and cause lines along the ridge. My Hennessy hammock tarp does that no matter how I pitch it and several people said it's because of the bias of the material -- it's a diamond tarp with a rectangular heart.
You might want to consider adding a "beak" to the rear of the tarp if you're looking for that extra storm protection. I did that with a tarp and it gave very good coverage for very little weight. If the foot end of your tarp is narrower (and it looks like it is), you only need a small amount of material to do it. You can either sew them together or add Velcro down the middle and allow them to be rolled up. That's what I did on mine and it was very easy and provided great protection. You can also get creative with a jacket or other rain gear. I hike with a small umbrella and it's worked well as a wind/rain block on the foot end in the past. Just be sure whatever you use is anchored very well.
I won't be the last person to suggest you look for used ski poles, which can be had for way less than $50. Also, why not use the bamboo you have? You could drill holes for the straps and make some type of strap adjuster with ladder-locks or the like. One thing I think a lot of people who are using homemade poles neglect is how well the straps bear your weight. If you're just gripping the poles, you're not getting nearly as much out of them. The straps really work. I have girly wrists and have never had even a hint of a problem from the poles.
Patrick - again, thanks so much for the comments! I had contemplated adding a beak. My tarp is the same width at each end, as much for simplicity as anything - I didn't feel like making a straight diagonal cut on each side! If I did beaks, I might even make them at each end just for added insurance. I'm kind of waiting to see how well I can stay dry in wind/wet with the foot end anchored all the way down. I like your idea of having velcro at the center of the beak.
I have used pins a TON with other projects, but didn't find myself using them much on this one. I experimented a bit with some .8 oz non-sil ripstop material before working with the silnylon - what a nightmare! It was so feathery that it wouldn't go straight for anything. The relative crispness of new silnylon made the hems on this tarp seem like a breeze!
I'm definitely going to play with the bamboo I have. I had thought about the ski pole idea, but am not sure about the weight. I can deal with a little heavier if it = free! In any case, I'll be working out a good strap design first. I have carried my dad's trekking poles for a few miles, and know that the index/thumb grip is all that should be necessary if the straps are in the right place.
bugbomb,
No problem. I think using the tarp a bunch before adding the beaks is an excellent idea. I added beaks and netting to mine and I think it was a big mistake. I don't know what I was thinking with the netting. A small, drawstring netting "bag" is absolutely the way to go (I have a thread on here somewhere with pictures and instructions for one that's less than five ounces). I don't think I'd do a front beak again, either. Just more complication and fuss. I rarely need the beaks and when I do, I think just the rear to point into the storm is enough. Staking directly to the ground is maybe an even better idea. I'm curious to know how it works out.
I didn't realize ski poles were heavier (never been skiing). Mess with the bamboo. I think bamboo poles would be awesome and would look really cool. I was thinking that you could either cut slots in them and put a tri-glide or ladderlock or something on the front for strap for adjustibility or maybe have two sets of slots that would provide enough resistance to work.
Now you've got me thinking about this...
titanium_hiker
09-30-2005, 20:55
the only issue with bamboo is that the ends tend to splinter shatter and break due to the thud thud of hitting the ground.
titanium
justusryans
09-30-2005, 21:28
the only issue with bamboo is that the ends tend to splinter shatter and break due to the thud thud of hitting the ground.
titanium
Wrap the end with duct tape or masking tape, it helps a lot with splintering.
Just Jeff
09-30-2005, 21:47
Get a rubber tip, like the ones on the ends of crutches. Or wrap a plastic zip-tie just above the tip, maybe. Duct tape would help, like justusryans said. Or find a way to attach a real hiking pole tip and basket.
I'm sure there are other ideas out there if you google it!
peter_pan
09-30-2005, 22:12
The rubber crutch bottoms are generally available in hardware stores...they come in about 6 sizes ... pretty in expensive...look in a bin down low normally...best part is that you can buy just one.
Pan
Very nice, looks almost exactly like my Integral Designs 5x8 silnylon tarp, and that one weighs out at 7oz. You did an excellent job.
Thanks for the kind comments, all. It's a good thing that my wife didn't take any up-close pictures of the seams/reinforcements, otherwise you'd see how sloppy my sewing really is. Like Patrick said, even an ugly stitch can get the job done.
As far as the bamboo - I took a 8-9 mile hike on Saturday with one bamboo stick. I just tied on a cord to use as a strap - I'm guessing it was about 5 or 6 oz, though I didn't weigh it. It was pretty nice, but I'm still not sure about the idea of carrying poles of any kind. I guess that this south Texas flatlander needs to get to the hills and try them out for sure.
Bamboo is very rigid, but will collapse easily if stepped on - it doesn't take pressure from that direction very well. However, this thin piece supported my weight without much difficulty. I would suggest cutting it just below the joint for the "foot" part, then wrapping the section above the joint with duct tape. This will provide it some additional strength - as long as those lateral fibers stay together, it's stiff - as well as giving you a nice place to store some extra duct tape. The rubber foot would be a bombproof way to keep the thing together. I would also suggest wrapping some duct tape around the top. The pole that I used didn't have a "joint" at the very top, and it had a crack in it. Talk about an annoying noise - had to listen to it splinter and crackle every time it hit the ground!
What does everyone do to cut long, straight seams? I've tried folding and cutting along the fold as well as measuring several points along the side and marking it. I thought of using a chalk-line snapper (or whatever they're called). Anyone done this? I've heard a lot of people who use the kitchen tiles. I like the sound of this, but our kitchen is like three feet wide, so I haven't tried it yet.
I'd say that the chalk line method would be the best and easiest, all you need to do is wipe off the chalk when you are done.
12hrsN2AT
10-03-2005, 17:36
Tey make a great tool for cutting straight fabric, it looks like a pizza wheel, I think Penny has pic here:
http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com/tips/tools.asp
I have used a chalk line. It works, but it is easier just to use string or line tied to a chair leg or other weight to hold it in place. Just cut along the string. Tape masking tape to a bare floor works as well. Sil-nylon is transparent. (translucent) Be careful if you use a magic marker to draw a line on the material. The ink can pass right through to the surface underneath. This will not be popular with your spouse when the living room carpet is underneath. Remember, too, the cut line does not have to be perfectly straight either. A serge sewing machine cuts the edge as it goes, wow! I also use sharp scissors that cost around $50 which I had to purchase when I worked for a sailmaker. They are well worth it. For a catenary cut go to the Six Moon Designs web site and look for their pattern for their tarptent.
Tape together newspaper, measure out their plan. Draw the lines with magic marker, place your material on top and cut. As mentioned above the cat cut will limit the way you set up a tarp. In an 8x10 tarp, consider sewing in a re-enforcement patch in the center and add a tie-out line of some sort. Use your hiking pole as a center pole. Works great to iliminate center sagging. Yes, seam seal those seams. Look in Ray Jardin's books for beak patterns and they also have a clearly explained way of sewing felled seams.