View Full Version : Toughest Climbs Between Smokys & Shanandoah?
JumpMaster Blaster
06-06-2014, 09:01
As I'm planning my next section hike somewhere between Hot Springs & Roan Mountain, I'm wondering what were the most challenging climbs in the stretch between Davenport Gap & Pearisburg. Looking at the profiles, it seems that the hike from Hughes Gap up to Roan is a butt-kicker.
Last time I talked to thru hikers, they said coming out of Fontana NOBO was pretty tough.
ChinMusic
06-06-2014, 09:08
The climb up Roan is pretty tame with the new switchbacks. The NOBO climb up Pond Flats has new switchbacks too.
I don't recall any climbs that stand out on their own. Any climb late in the day, when you are running low on energy, or just plain hot will be challenging. Conditions make the climbs.
Kerosene
06-06-2014, 09:59
It's all relative, and you're going to have to make the climb regardless if you want to cover the distance! Don't fixate on the elevation maps.
That said:
You've got a long climb from Davenport Gap to the summit of Snowbird that would best be done in the cool of the morning.
The climb out of Hot Springs isn't overly steep for the most part, but it does stretch on for quite a while.
I was SOBO over Big Bald, but I recall some steeper stuff that was covered in downed leaves when I went through (or was that Unaka?).
The trail to the summit of Roan has a lot more switchbacks than it used to, but you still need to ascend to over 6,000 feet.
You will have a pair of good climbs approaching Chestnut Mountain north of Atkins.
The climb up Peters Mountain north of Pearisburg is a good one, but then you have 15+ miles of (fairly dry) ridge walking on a lovely trail.
The climb out of Daleville is pretty well switch-backed but you have to get all the way back up to the ridgeline.
The climb north from US-60 outside of Buena Vista is long with a lot of switchbacks.
Those are ones that I recall, but again, I wouldn't worry about them too much other than to recognize you're going to have to climb them. The New England ascents are much, much more rigorous than down South.
bigcranky
06-06-2014, 10:08
Conditions make the climbs.
Exactly. I've talked with hikers who go on and on about some terrible climb, and I didn't remember it at all. Then I'll start in on what I thought was tough, and the other hiker thought it was easy. The classic case is Sassafras
How much you've had to eat or drink, time of day, how well you slept the night before, the weather conditions -- all of these contribute more to the difficulty of a climb than the, um, difficulty of the climb...
Exactly. I've talked with hikers who go on and on about some terrible climb, and I didn't remember it at all. Then I'll start in on what I thought was tough, and the other hiker thought it was easy. The classic case is Sassafras
How much you've had to eat or drink, time of day, how well you slept the night before, the weather conditions -- all of these contribute more to the difficulty of a climb than the, um, difficulty of the climb...
+1 on all that. I remember some allegedly hard climbs that turned out to be no sweat, and vice versa. It ends up being all about attitude, conditions, the last night's sleep, the last day's miles, etc.
The only climb that actually stands out in my mind between Davenport Gap and Pearisburg, is the climb up from Watuga Lake Dam to Vandeventer shelter other than that, that section is pretty tame, and i agree with everyone else your Attitude is 50% of the physicality of the trail.
JumpMaster Blaster
06-06-2014, 10:54
Appreciate the input. My very first hike was from VA 311 to McAfee Knob. By the time I got to Campbell shelter to camp, my legs were wobbly and I was dead tired. Could barely walk the next day on the return trip down. In my defense, it was my FIRST climb, and I was carrying a 33+ pound pack (never again).
That being said, I'm just trying to decide how to break up my hike so I'm not dragging myself back to my truck after 3 good days of walking ;). Oh well, it's all uphill anyway.
Almost There
06-06-2014, 11:42
Agree with the above. I hated the climb up to Wind Rock, but it was hot, late in the day. The climb out of Pearisburg was rough on me too, but my knee was bothering me. Any long climb at the end of the day sucks. Climbs in the morning are always better.
FarmerChef
06-06-2014, 12:24
I remember the Priest SOBO that was a slog. I would imagine 3 ridges coming NOBO would be similar. Still, not that bad. Now the Wildcats - that's a different story...
ChinMusic
06-06-2014, 12:26
3 Ridges was a slog. But a NOBO thru tends to forget about those after doing the north.
Tuckahoe
06-06-2014, 12:43
It's all relative, and you're going to have to make the climb regardless if you want to cover the distance! Don't fixate on the elevation maps.
That said:
You've got a long climb from Davenport Gap to the summit of Snowbird that would best be done in the cool of the morning.
The climb out of Hot Springs isn't overly steep for the most part, but it does stretch on for quite a while.
I was SOBO over Big Bald, but I recall some steeper stuff that was covered in downed leaves when I went through (or was that Unaka?).
The trail to the summit of Roan has a lot more switchbacks than it used to, but you still need to ascend to over 6,000 feet.
You will have a pair of good climbs approaching Chestnut Mountain north of Atkins.
The climb up Peters Mountain north of Pearisburg is a good one, but then you have 15+ miles of (fairly dry) ridge walking on a lovely trail.
The climb out of Daleville is pretty well switch-backed but you have to get all the way back up to the ridgeline.
The climb north from US-66 outside of Buena Vista is long with a lot of switchbacks.
Those are ones that I recall, but again, I wouldn't worry about them too much other than to recognize you're going to have to climb them. The New England ascents are much, much more rigorous than down South.
Isnt that I-64 or Rt 60, rather than I-66? I-66 is north of Front Royal.
Studlintsean
06-06-2014, 12:47
Appreciate the input. My very first hike was from VA 311 to McAfee Knob. By the time I got to Campbell shelter to camp, my legs were wobbly and I was dead tired. Could barely walk the next day on the return trip down. In my defense, it was my FIRST climb, and I was carrying a 33+ pound pack (never again).
That being said, I'm just trying to decide how to break up my hike so I'm not dragging myself back to my truck after 3 good days of walking ;). Oh well, it's all uphill anyway.
I just did the hike through Roan Mountain area in 2.5 days and it was an awesome hike. Not real easy but not too challenging either. If it helps at all, PM me an email address and ill send you a short trip report I wrote up to send to my brothers.
bigcranky
06-06-2014, 14:55
I remember the Priest SOBO that was a slog.
Yeah, that was tough. Long climb, but good views on the way up and the top.
I remember the Priest SOBO that was a slog. I would imagine 3 ridges coming NOBO would be similar. Still, not that bad. Now the Wildcats - that's a different story...
See, that's what I was thinking as I approached it (heading sobo)... but when it finally happened, it was no big deal. I really enjoyed the three ridges neighborhood, for some odd reason.
Climbs I remember as being rude... the climb out of Sweetwater Gap, Roan, Chestnut Knob, the climb out of Pearisburg (all nobo.) Common denominator for most of these was bad attitude. Of course none of these climbs compare to a "normal" day in the Whites or southern Maine.
Slo-go'en
06-06-2014, 17:06
There were a few descents between Partnership and Daleville (which I just came back from doings, so are fresh in my mind) I would not have liked to have climbed SOBO - like the decent off of Dragons tooth. That one is probably in the top 10 worst descents on the AT. Of course, I'm sure some of the climbs I did going NOBO through that section would have seemed like bad descents going SOBO. It really is all relative.
jimmyjam
06-06-2014, 18:25
That climb north out of Pearisburg was the first time I stepped on the AT. It was 37 years ago OMG. But I remember it well it was late April and I was a VT freshman and hiked up there with the guys on the hall. We were beat by the time we got to the shelter near Kelly's Knob. We drank the beer we brought and cowboy camped around the fire ring in front of the shelter. It snowed while we slept and when we woke we were all covered with +1" of snow!!! I was hooked from that weekend, thanks "Ydean" for getting me hooked.
Lone Wolf
06-06-2014, 19:55
As I'm planning my next section hike somewhere between Hot Springs & Roan Mountain, I'm wondering what were the most challenging climbs in the stretch between Davenport Gap & Pearisburg. Looking at the profiles, it seems that the hike from Hughes Gap up to Roan is a butt-kicker.
Last time I talked to thru hikers, they said coming out of Fontana NOBO was pretty tough.those climbs are tame now. there are no tough climbs till you hit northern NH. even then they're just slow goin'. i never found any of the AT physically challenging
ChinMusic
06-06-2014, 20:29
i never found any of the AT physically challenging
I think you should post that on ALL your future posts. It would help the reader.
Lone Wolf
06-06-2014, 20:35
I think you should post that on ALL your future posts. It would help the reader.
well, unlike most i was physically prepped before any of my LD hikes. i enjoyed climbs. i'm a Marine. we love that stuff! :cool:
Cookerhiker
06-06-2014, 20:59
I remember the Priest SOBO that was a slog. I would imagine 3 ridges coming NOBO would be similar. Still, not that bad. Now the Wildcats - that's a different story...
I also did The Priest SOBO on a section hike over 25 years ago. For the OP, the climb up 3 Ridges from the Tye River after he descends The Priest is a long one.
johnnybgood
06-06-2014, 22:09
I still prefer climbing to going downhill on any of the above mentioned mainly because the knees take such a pounding , especially with a loaded pack .
Totally agree with the last few miles at the end of the day when you're physically spent.
The climb up Roan is pretty tame with the new switchbacks. The NOBO climb up Pond Flats has new switchbacks too.
I don't recall any climbs that stand out on their own. Any climb late in the day, when you are running low on energy, or just plain hot will be challenging. Conditions make the climbs.
+1 on the new switchbacks up Roan. After looking at the profile, I was pleasantly surprised by them. Near the top they run out (at least they did last summer) and then you are going straight up over rocks and roots, and you appreciate them even more. CM, also makes a great point on the other factors (time of day, energy level, temperature, humidity) and the impact it has on your perspective. I always try ot plan a Snickers or Power Bar break before doing a long climb.
The only climb that actually stands out in my mind between Davenport Gap and Pearisburg, is the climb up from Watuga Lake Dam to Vandeventer shelter other than that, that section is pretty tame, and i agree with everyone else your Attitude is 50% of the physicality of the trail.
What I will probably always remember is the climb back up to Vandeventer shelter from the water source after a long day of all the other climbs. It was "on the way" NOBO so I did it with my pack on at the end of the day. Not a fond memory.
3 Ridges was a slog. But a NOBO thru tends to forget about those after doing the north.
CM, looks like your experience lines up with the "when you get to NH & ME, you have done 80% of the miles with 20% of the effort, with the last 20% of the miles requiring 80% of the effort" (NOBO that is).
Kerosene
06-07-2014, 17:27
I modified to US-60. Thanks Tuckahoe.
mr.rainmaker
06-10-2014, 10:25
+1 on the new switchbacks up Roan. After looking at the profile, I was pleasantly surprised by them. Near the top they run out (at least they did last summer) and then you are going straight up over rocks and roots, and you appreciate them even more. CM, also makes a great point on the other factors (time of day, energy level, temperature, humidity) and the impact it has on your perspective. I always try ot plan a Snickers or Power Bar break before doing a long climb.
+2 About 2 weeks ago we went up Roan on the new switchbacks the trail crew was actually out cutting out some of the new trail still, very nice grade. I did not get a chance to hike the old trail but did see where it started up and it looked brutal compared to the new trail. One of the guys on the trail crew told me that they had added about 2 miles to the climb.
I Prefered the old AT route up Roan MT i tried the new route I don't like switch backs i prefer the trail go straight up and over.
ChinMusic
06-10-2014, 12:10
The old AT route up Roan was VERY heavily eroded. I remember worrying about my dog's safety with the tangle of roots. I didn't want him to break a leg.
The new route should be much more resistant to erosion and last for many, many years.
I also did The Priest SOBO on a section hike over 25 years ago. For the OP, the climb up 3 Ridges from the Tye River after he descends The Priest is a long one.
Don't be tricked into thinking the Mau-Har trail is a "shortcut". That's a tough climb there.
The Priest got my full attention, but I was going Southbound.
Pedaling Fool
06-10-2014, 15:11
The Priest got my full attention, but I was going Southbound.The Priest is kind of like Blood Mountain; totally different mountain in the SOBO direction.
hikernutcasey
06-13-2014, 09:07
The old AT route up Roan was VERY heavily eroded. I remember worrying about my dog's safety with the tangle of roots. I didn't want him to break a leg.
The new route should be much more resistant to erosion and last for many, many years.
I just sectioned through Roan this past weekend and talked with some local folks who said the final switchbacks at the top were completed near the end of May. The relo is now complete. I can tell you that they did a super job with this. The climb didn't seem that bad at all compared to what it could have been looking at the old trail. Like Chin said, it was super eroded and straight up the hill.
Tennessee Viking
06-13-2014, 15:39
The only thing that makes climbs difficult (at any elevation) is heat, humidity and rocks.
A lot of the trail in the South is now being diverted to switchbacks. It may take longer, buts its easier on the legs and knees.
Haven't made the climb out of Hot Springs, but its looks more long than steep.
Big Bald isn't too bad as long as you go NOBO. Going SOBO is a pain because you are making the climb up Little Bald almost immediately.
The climb up Jones Branch Hollow to Indian Grave is about the steepest thing now.
I climbed Roan from Hughes Gap before the current relos were put in. Once you got to Ash Gap, it really wasn't that hard.
The climb up Hump Mtn and Bishop Hollow is only bad during the heat.
Pond Mtn is only bad for its rocks.
The new Watauga Lake to Iron Mtn ridgeline is really easy now.
MuddyWaters
06-14-2014, 08:12
The AT is what you make it. Its just a trail in the woods. Pack weight, condition, time of day, etc. Two different people, will have two different opinions about any climb depending. One will think its hard, one will think no big deal.
My diary entry for the Roan climb....
Got thoroughly depressed this morning, at the thought of having to climb Roan Mtn. The depression sort of peaked when I arrived at Clyde Smith shelter. [..] But the break (a LONG one) helped a lot, as has this view. At the shelter, I heated water & had tea, and a small hot meal. Then heated some more H2O and gave myself a warm sponge bath. Left a rather heavy entry in the register, along with a verse from “Fish and Whistle,” by John Prine. That long break made the climb to this spot easier. Looking out over these hills has lifted my spirits considerably.
Perhaps I should take some pride & give myself a pat on the back for having come this far – from a place far, far beyond even this vast horizon before me. Oh well, all things must pass. Hate to leave this gorgeous spot, but it would be nice to make another mile or two today. Gotta go...
Here's a pic from where I wrote that diary entry, and a pic of my not-so-stealth camp that evening, right smack on the trail. In the morning I discovered that I'd camped about 15 minutes shy of the summit.
It's all in yer head.
joshuasdad
06-14-2014, 09:40
I watched some NOBOs really suffer on that steep climb just north of Damascus on a hot day. Full packs affer a zero or two may make that the toughest NOBO climb in that section.
Dragon's Tooth was the worst because I hated the scramble-y descent.
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jimmyjam
06-16-2014, 22:16
Don't be tricked into thinking the Mau-Har trail is a "shortcut". That's a tough climb there.
You are so right. I did it one hot summer day while it rained on and off and the gnats and skeeters attacked me the whole way. The trail is pretty much a rock scramble over rocks. Like climbing dragons tooth sobo 4 or 5 times .
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Shuckstack out of Fontana was a grind for me. Three ridges NOBO was as well. Didn't have too much trouble coming out of RT 60 at Buena Vista or with Snowbird. All depends on time of day, weather, atitude etc... All of it is doable, often the challenge is more internal as opposed to external.
The AT is what you make it. Its just a trail in the woods. Pack weight, condition, time of day, etc. Two different people, will have two different opinions about any climb depending. One will think its hard, one will think no big deal.
So true, but often two hikers will have three or more opinions on just about anything!!!:)
SawnieRobertson
06-30-2014, 11:25
The climb up Roan is pretty tame with the new switchbacks. The NOBO climb up Pond Flats has new switchbacks too.
I don't recall any climbs that stand out on their own. Any climb late in the day, when you are running low on energy, or just plain hot will be challenging. Conditions make the climbs.
Hear, hear! Plan to camp just before big climbs (whatever they are to you) so that you can do them early on (like first thing) in the mornings. Somehow that way they are nuthin' at all. Of course, the amount of stuff that has crept into your pack during a town visit can have the same effect as hot, humid, difficult, miserably uncomfortable on your shoulders and back. But enjoy the challenge and be grateful for the opportunity.
SawnieRobertson
06-30-2014, 11:31
Exactly. I've talked with hikers who go on and on about some terrible climb, and I didn't remember it at all. Then I'll start in on what I thought was tough, and the other hiker thought it was easy. The classic case is Sassafras.
Cursed Sassafras, but I was walking SOBO at the time with negligible water, and Wingfoot never mentioned it in his Handbook.
turtle fast
06-30-2014, 14:07
The Priest going SOBO even on a slack-pack from The Dutch House B&B on a NOBO hike really sticks out for me as it was really hot and even sacking it was a brutal sweaty climb to where not anywhere on you was dry. Ended up on an overlook to lay on the rocks to dry out and drink gaterade.
The Priest going SOBO
Yeah, it was tough, but it was good hiking.
Don't tell me you didn't love being there every second, especially the moment when you reached the rocks and the view.
Studlintsean
06-30-2014, 16:05
I just did the Priest SOBO last week and it was a doozy.