View Full Version : AT thru-hike in 2x90 days as non-US-citizen 2015 late SOBO ME-PA 2016 late NOBO GA-PA
Somehow it got into my mind that I want to hike the AT.
This is posting is to explain my thoughts on doing so as foreigner, involved logistics and maybe bring a different perspective for the US people planning a (thru-)hike.
I am a male married 31 year old german software engineer, by the way.
The Time
I need six months off work.
I have a nice job and in germany, we like to stay at the same company for decades. Besides quitting the job and then travelling would put you in a world of pain since you'd have to go to the unemployment office in person every month and a million other problems, in short quitting work is out of the question.
What we do have on the other hand is a law on part-time employment which basically states that every worker has the right to reduce hours to part time. So I went to my boss with the idea of working 50% in 2015, full time in the months of Jan,Feb,Mar,Oct,Nov,Dec and not at all in Apr,May,Jun,Jul,Aug,Sep for 50% of the salary throughout the whole year.
He was not amused. I asked my wife about hiking 6 months through the woods and she, too, was not amused and has absolutely no interest to join me.
And finally in order to legally stay in the US for more than 90 days, I'd have to get a 6 months B-2 visitor visa which may be cut short if the immigration officer at the airport CBP does not understand long distance hiking.
All in all, I deemed doing a classic thru-hike unfeasible relatively quickly.
So, if that is not possible, what is?
Well my boss said that three months off for 75% salary throughout the year would be okay, since in the summer where everyone is on vacation (we have 6 weeks of paid vacation anyways)
My wife is still not happy with me being gone for 3 months, but well, we've been together since 2002 I think 3 months apart won't hurt too much. Sometimes a man gotta do what a man's gotta do.
Visa Waiver travel allows for exactly 90 days, so that fits, too.
The question is which is the best plan if you want to hike the Appalachian Trail in 2 x ~85 days?
The Itinerary
While I have plenty of experience in dayhikes in the 15-20mi range, at times hiking each day for a week or two, I have never backpacked.
Its just not really a thing here, hotels, hostels or huts are everywhere, even on mountains in the alps. And there is no place to actually train for it, since it is forbidden pretty much everywhere but in developed campgrounds anyways.
So my initial idea was to go NOBO, start on Springer beginning of April 2015, get to the halfway point (or preferable up to NJ or NY) before my time would run out 90 days later and return 2016 in summer for the second part.
This would put me in the same spot as many other backpacking newbies and the learning curve starting NOBO seems better geared towards me.
Also flying into Atlanta is easy and getting from PA/NJ/NY to a major airport seems doable.
While this is still a valid plan, I started to wonder if there is an alternative that suits my plans better.
I checked the alternative itineraries on the ATC site for tips, but they seem rather complicated from a transportation point of view, but what I learned is that the NOBO thru-hiker basically has few spots where he hikes in optimal weather.
My current favorite is starting SOBO in mid-late July 2015, hoping to reach at least the Hudson, further south is a plus before time runs out first week of oct.
I would book a round-trip airfare to NYC and go to Bangor, ME by bus for the start, and return to NYC from whereever I happen to end up 2 days before my return flight.
Then return late April 2016 NOBO for the rest reaching the point where I left the AT before my starting date in the previous year, which would, per ATC definition:
A thru-hiker is a hiker or backpacker who has completed or is attempting to walk the entire Appalachian Trail in a 12-month period (not necessarily a calendar year)., make me a thru-hiker.
As a bonus, this would free up the holiday-heavy 2015 May (we have 4 public holidays in May) for family activity but it leaves me with the SOBO learning curve and since I'd be pretty late for SOBO (after all I don't have to worry about snow in the south) I think it might get a little lonely. From a stream fording/mud/bug standpoint starting late July seems to be even better than June or early July from a SOBO perspective.
I am happy to hear your thoughts regarding this plan and if there are people having the same idea, speak up!
Regards
octide
First off, :welcome to Whiteblaze.
Many people from Germany in recent years have thru-hiked the AT. I have heard this is partly due to a television program about the Appalachian Trail which aired in Germany a few years ago. I mention this because I'm guessing there must be some hiking oriented web-sites or social media groups in Germany where you could get in touch with people from Germany who have completed thru-hikes. These people could undoubtedly offer a lot of good advice on visas, the logistics of getting to and from various spots on the trail, and on hiking the AT in general.
I agree with you that late July is a good time to begin a southbound 85 day hike from Katahdin. In a typical year the bugs and stream crossings will be less bothersome by then, as you mention. During your first six weeks of hiking, when it might be nicest to have that security blanket of some company on the trail, you should see some fellow SOBOs as well as many thru-hiking NOBOs. And then September has the reputation of being a good time to be in southern New England and into the mid-Atlantic states.
I also think mid to late April is a good time to begin a northbound 85 day hike from Springer. You will have some NOBOs for company but not hordes. In a typical year you will avoid most winter-like weather and won't face the consistent heat of summer until the second half of that hike. And you can always keep the option open of going SOBO again that second year, picking up where you left off the year before. The mid-Atlantic to Springer option also works in that late Spring/early Summer time frame when it comes to weather, though you won't have much company going your same direction.
Finally, the fact that you have experience doing fairly long day hikes for several days in a row is more practical preparation than many undertake before attempting a long AT hike.
I wish you luck.
Slo-go'en
02-05-2015, 00:45
The problem with a SOBO is you start off with the most difficult and most remote sections of the AT right from the start. Not having much experience makes it a lot more difficult then it already is. Not impossible, but the learning curve will definitely slow you down. It takes some practice to get the hang of hiking on New England trails. I would not recommend doing this.
For a 90 day, once in a life time trip, you want to pick the ideal area at the ideal time of year. Which is a spring hike in the south, Georgia, North Carlina, Tennessee and Virginia - April, May, June or a fall hike through New England, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine - July, August, September.
If you can take the early end of summer off (April through June) do the southern hike. This is your best choice. Lots of wild flowers, cool temps, lots of companionship. It will be a good time and all in all, the least expensive.
If you can take the late end of summer off (July through September) do the northern hike. Start in Massachusetts, there are several places you can get to the trail via bus from Boston. Vermont is moderately difficult as a starting point, but lots easier then Maine. This trip will take more planning on getting through New Hampshire, as it is a popular time of year and camping is highly restricted. There will be a pretty even mix of thru hikers and section hikers.
Kaptain Kangaroo
02-05-2015, 02:31
I think your SOBO then NOBO plan sounds fine. Don't be put off by comments about the difficulty of starting in Maine. Yes, there are some hills and some rocks, but it is not really difficult hiking if you have any walking experience.
Before you leave home, practice "camping".
I recommend a tarp or tent much more quickly set up and taken down, than this video, getting everything accomplished (food, etc.) efficiently.
Start at 3:00 minutes: http://youtu.be/vGCZPgC74kA
Notice what he is teaching for selection of site, setting up, etc.
Think it thru. Do better: you will need to be more efficient than that video.
If you are going to do the entire AT you will need to be efficient about getting food and rest.
Since you have not "backpacked" I suggest low weight and low volume efficient gear, practice with your gear: gravity feed filter water for practice, while you get your shelter set up and squared away for the night, for example.
Practice preparing food with the stove and cookware. If cumbersome, if too "fiddly" organize a better "kit".
The first layer is not underwear. Work out effective layers for anticipated weather and conditions; have a first layer top and underwear of quick-dry material for hanging off the backpack or in the mesh pocket washables because you will want to be reasonably fresh and spend as little time in towns as possible.
Plan towns and off-trail efficiently: find advice for "best" and "worst" (read: avoid) right here.
Figure out light weight and low volume calorie dense and nutritional food, to sustain you.
While practicing "camping" find out if you need an 3/4 or full length air mattress, for example, to get good rest. If you can't sleep, get and stay horizontal anyway (the body will thank you) because it will get "rest".
Of course, you can do the entire AT in 180-days. But will you enjoy it?
I have made these suggestions so you have some liesure time because if you are struggling with your gear, your clothing, your camping skills, you will fall into unnecessarily "stress" and "pushing" yourself to meet a schedule.
This is the mental game.
You can "muddle" through as a complete tyro: you will finish, or not, just the same. :)
Hello,
first thank all of your for your opinions!
I'm getting the idea that my plans have a chance to work out, which is nice.
At first I was fiddling with the idea to do what Slo-go'en described here:
...
If you can take the late end of summer off (July through September) do the northern hike. Start in Massachusetts, there are several places you can get to the trail via bus from Boston. Vermont is moderately difficult as a starting point, but lots easier then Maine. This trip will take more planning on getting through New Hampshire, as it is a popular time of year and camping is highly restricted. There will be a pretty even mix of thru hikers and section hikers.
...
It sounds more reasonable to start easier and work my way up north, but how am I to know where to start?
My current plan would call for a round-trip flight FRA->NYC on July 19th and NYC->FRA on October 3rd for ~10 weeks on the trail.
No matter where I'd pick as a starting point (I would choose the lowest point on the AT near Hudson River), I'm basically doomed to either be in a rush to make it to Kathadin or have some days leftover at the end with nothing good to do really.
Going SOBO I get as far as I get.
The second thing that is right on the spot is this advice: "Before you leave home, practice "camping"."
My wife and I have been to the US twice before in '12 and '13, each time for 4 weeks in the southwest and we're planning to do the same again from May 9th to June 12th.
The original plan was to do a long road trip together as we did before, sleeping in motels.
I kind of talked her into camping at least on some nights because of the benefits for my solo hike in July-Oct.
My idea is that first thing we do when we land in may is to get to a REI store in the US and buy all the backpacking equipment that I don't have for the AT trip there, and use it on the trip with my wife.
I thought that when we have a car on the trip in may, a Fly Creek UL2 should be okay to sleep two persons since we can keep all the stuff in the car, and still be light enough for me to take backpacking solo while the space then not used up by my wife will be used by gear on the AT.:D
Together with two sleeping pads, two sleeping bags and a backpack should put my REI bill in the $2000 ballpark.
We will do a lot of dayhikes on this trip too, but no backcountry camping since she's not the outdoorsy type and I don't want to overexpose her to the wild while I am still learning myself. But I plan on carrying the then almost AT worthy pack regardless of the fact that its only a dayhike to train for the weight.
One other issue that really bugs me are bears - not the animals themselves but the precautions to take.
I see how everyone hangs their food in a bag but personally I think I'd prefer to take a bear canister as long as it doubles as a stool / sitting opportunity during the daytime.
Also, I want to hike JMT 2017 after I'm done with the AT so I'd need one anyways.
How many hikers on the AT do use a bear canister? It doesnt seem an excessive weight item compared to other stuff people carry as luxury item and it actually has the use of being sure that your food is still there the next morning, the trade off seems fair to me, why is it so unpopular?
Regards
octide
First off, :welcome to Whiteblaze.
Many people from Germany in recent years have thru-hiked the AT. I have heard this is partly due to a television program about the Appalachian Trail which aired in Germany a few years ago. I mention this because I'm guessing there must be some hiking oriented web-sites or social media groups in Germany where you could get in touch with people from Germany who have completed thru-hikes. These people could undoubtedly offer a lot of good advice on visas, the logistics of getting to and from various spots on the trail, and on hiking the AT in general.
I agree with you that late July is a good time to begin a southbound 85 day hike from Katahdin. In a typical year the bugs and stream crossings will be less bothersome by then, as you mention. During your first six weeks of hiking, when it might be nicest to have that security blanket of some company on the trail, you should see some fellow SOBOs as well as many thru-hiking NOBOs. And then September has the reputation of being a good time to be in southern New England and into the mid-Atlantic states.
I also think mid to late April is a good time to begin a northbound 85 day hike from Springer. You will have some NOBOs for company but not hordes. In a typical year you will avoid most winter-like weather and won't face the consistent heat of summer until the second half of that hike. And you can always keep the option open of going SOBO again that second year, picking up where you left off the year before. The mid-Atlantic to Springer option also works in that late Spring/early Summer time frame when it comes to weather, though you won't have much company going your same direction.
Finally, the fact that you have experience doing fairly long day hikes for several days in a row is more practical preparation than many undertake before attempting a long AT hike.
I wish you luck.
My topic's first reply was mighty map man himself!
Being kind of a data nerd myself, I have spend a lot of time with your articles on hiking rates. They're a very valuable source of information. Thanks for making and updating them!
On the issue of many germans on the trail and german forums: The one thing I don't want is a german hiking buddy for the entire trip. Part of the fun for me will be to meet new people, preferably not germans, not that germans are not nice its just that I already know so many.
bangorme
02-05-2015, 10:50
You won't have any trouble getting six months on your stay from Immigration as long as you come prepared. Bring evidence that your intent is to hike the AT. Bring evidence as to what funds are necessary to do the trip, then bring documentation that you have more than that available (credit cards may not suffice unless you can prove that credit will be available throughout your stay). Bring proof that you plan to return to Germany (e.g. letter from employer that you have a job to return to). Bring proof that you have health insurance in case you get hurt. Have a return ticket.
I'm sure they see vagabonds arriving everyday wanting to do some kind of adventure in the U.S. that don't have a clue and plan to live on love. These people get a quick return flight.
If you are doing the AT hike in two increments of 90-days, could you give us an idea of mileage you hike on your walks? Mountains? Flat terrain?
This would help get information from experienced people of places to get on and off the AT for ideal use of each 90-days.
I am taking a BearVault on the PNT Pacific Northwest Trail, although not a requirement.
I feel the same way about it. I will use it as a seat, at a campsite.
I also want my food protected from mice, chipmunks, racoons and porcupines, if any or all.
Edit: The total weight/volume is important.
I am at 20+ lbs. with food, water, and, fuel. www.geargrams.com/list?id=22273 (http://www.geargrams.com/list?id=22273)
I am working to reduce that weight with more lightweight, yet durable, gear.
I think you have a good selection of tent. Others will have other suggestions.
However, I don't think you can outfit at REI and achieve a low weight and low volume pack. Others will have more to say.
I am thinking you said you have not backpacked.
Well, backpacking is only like a walk if you have a lightweight and comfortable backpack that will not throw you off balance for river and stream crossings or when scrambling over and around boulders. There is also a little climbing, with fixed aids.
I suggest you start a proposed gear list, starting with a "gear library" at geargrams (I donated) and, for example, make proposed AT and JMT lists to invite suggestions from the forum. It think that will be a help.
Just read about your tent option -- Fly Creek UL2. I have this tent and for two people it's tight. It's more of a 1 person with tons of gear sort of tent. If you're only going to spend a night in it with your wife it should be fine but I would think multiple nights in bad weather would be claustrophobic. My son has the Copper Spur UL2 and it seems much better for two people and for one it's a palace. Not too much of a weight penalty vs the Fly Creek.
English Stu
02-05-2015, 12:00
I am in the UK and I have traveled over to hike in the US three times. I do a 100 mile walk ,or similar, finishing a week before I am due to travel.That way you are well on the way to be walking fit otherwise hiking day after day can come as bit of shock. It also gives you experience with all your kit. Oh and make sure your pack is light.
wilsonnickp
02-05-2015, 12:09
Just an opinion here... When I first started, I went to REI and fully outfitted myself for a trip starting at Springer. Just after that one trip, I ditched much of the REI bought stuff and went to lighter thing purchased from smaller companies online. In my current setup, I only use an REI sleeping bag and thermarest, nothing else from there that I can think of. I would suggest doing some research online instead of blindly going to REI and saying "equip me." GoLite backpacks are cheaper and lighter than what you'll get at REI. I currently carry a Gossamer Gear and love it. TarpTent is a great company for shelter. I love mine, though I recently switched to a tarp from ZPacks. Again, these are my opinions based on my experiences and these options aren't for everyone. Just do some research (I do a little too much research usually, ha). If you would like, feel free to send me a message and I'd be glad to help you in any way I can.
Good luck!
Odd Man Out
02-05-2015, 12:27
You said you have looked at alternative hike options. One that is being promoted this year is the the hike that starts in Harpers Ferry in early May and goes NOBO to ME. You then flip back to HF and hike SOBO to GA. There is a group of them with their own thread. The ATC is also organizing a kick-off event for this group.
http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php/107619-Flip-Flop-Class-of-2015-Unite!?highlight=flip+flop
http://www.appalachiantrail.org/who-we-are/events/2015/05/02/default-calendar/flip-flop-kick-off
You could consider doing this, but in two years instead of one. You would be starting out on an easy part of the trail with a small but close knit group of thru hikers. Getting to Harper's Ferry is very easy. Fly to Washington DC (lots of options from FRA). There are three airports (BWI, DCA, and IAD). All have direct bus, subway, or train connections to the main train station in DC which has a train everyday to HF. At HF, the train station is directly on that AT.
Also, I was curious about your comment that people in Europe don't backpack much.
"Its just not really a thing here, hotels, hostels or huts are everywhere, even on mountains in the alps. And there is no place to actually train for it, since it is forbidden pretty much everywhere but in developed campgrounds anyways."
Are you saying that you are required to stay in huts and can't camp on the trails in Europe? I didn't know that. You could go to Scandinavia. Lots of trails, lots of wilderness, and you are allowed to camp on any undeveloped, uncultivated land anywhere, anytime, no questions asked, as long as you use LNT principles.
You said you have looked at alternative hike options. One that is being promoted this year is the the hike that starts in Harpers Ferry in early May and goes NOBO to ME. You then flip back to HF and hike SOBO to GA. There is a group of them with their own thread. The ATC is also organizing a kick-off event for this group...
My 2015 may schedule is already fixed so that won't work for me, and also HF to ME is too far to do in 90 days.
Just an opinion here... When I first started, I went to REI and fully outfitted myself for a trip starting at Springer. Just after that one trip, I ditched much of the REI bought stuff and went to lighter thing purchased from smaller companies online. In my current setup, I only use an REI sleeping bag and thermarest, nothing else from there that I can think of. I would suggest doing some research online instead of blindly going to REI and saying "equip me." GoLite backpacks are cheaper and lighter than what you'll get at REI. I currently carry a Gossamer Gear and love it. TarpTent is a great company for shelter. I love mine, though I recently switched to a tarp from ZPacks. Again, these are my opinions based on my experiences and these options aren't for everyone. Just do some research (I do a little too much research usually, ha). If you would like, feel free to send me a message and I'd be glad to help you in any way I can.
Good luck!
Its all a matter of price and convenience - Gear like the fly creek or a thermarest neoair are in the REI online catalog so I just assumed they would be on stock in the store. Also the smaller specialized businesses have hefty shipping cost to germany and I'd have to pay 19% german VAT on the price at the customs when it arrives.
And all gear that I did check is cheaper in a US retail store than it is in germany ordered online.
I do already own outdoor clothing that I'm comfortable with so I'm basically talking about the big 4.
Just read about your tent option -- Fly Creek UL2. I have this tent and for two people it's tight. It's more of a 1 person with tons of gear sort of tent. If you're only going to spend a night in it with your wife it should be fine but I would think multiple nights in bad weather would be claustrophobic. My son has the Copper Spur UL2 and it seems much better for two people and for one it's a palace. Not too much of a weight penalty vs the Fly Creek.
I read good stuff about that tent a couple of times, I will definetly look at both these tents before making a final decision.
If you are doing the AT hike in two increments of 90-days, could you give us an idea of mileage you hike on your walks? Mountains? Flat terrain?
This would help get information from experienced people of places to get on and off the AT for ideal use of each 90-days.
Well as I live around Frankfurt we do not have mountains like the alps, but we do have hilly terrain elevation ranging from 400ft to 2800ft
Since I actively started training in october I try to dayhike 40km (~25mi) each weekend, on both days or a longer single day, depending on schedule.
My stats say that since october 25th, 2014 I have hiked 328.7km (205mi) of trails with a total elevation gain of 10139m (33264ft).
The weather was around freezing to mit 60s for most hikes with no or moderate rain, no downpour yet.
The trail surface in my area is mostly gravel on forestry roads, a much smaller percentage is actual rugged trail.
When it comes to climbing I did the Angels Landing hike in Zion NP. That is probably the most "dangerous" hike I ever did from a "if you fall, you're dead" perspective, from a rock scrambling point of view I actually found the hike to Druid Arch in Canyonlands NP's needles district more challenging but that may be since its also a longer hike and it was pretty hot on the day I did it.
Also, in Heidelberg I hiked a trail called "Stairway to heaven" which is basically 1600 rugged sandstone steps from the city of Heidelberg in the neckar valley to the summit of "Königstuhl" (king's throne) mountain as part of a longer trail I hiked along the neckar. Google for "Himmelsleiter Heidelberg" images if you want to get an idea what it looks like.
I am taking a BearVault on the PNT Pacific Northwest Trail, although not a requirement.
I feel the same way about it. I will use it as a seat, at a campsite.
I also want my food protected from mice, chipmunks, racoons and porcupines, if any or all.
...
I heard that mice and squirrels can destroy/access a foodbag that is hung is that correct?
Also I'm wondering how to not have the backpack or worse: yourself smell like food after for example eating cheese or salami that stuff smells a lot.
Opsak is odorproof. Highly recommended.
I would put it inside BearVault.
I use it in a food bag. I use it for garbage. I use it for scented products.
Because I live in Montana, the mountains here have grizzley bears. I have Opsak.
I also choose food items that do not have strong odor (example: smoked salmon) so I do not invite bears. I cook away from camp, often preparing my dinner in the mid-day and having a light supper closer to the end of the hiking day. Further on, I make camp.
I don't think you will need all these precautions.
I do it all because I am in the mountains so much.
Or you can just get a 90 visa, hike from Georgia to Maine, skip into Canada and leave for Germany. If you are an illegal alien in this country, stay long enough and you may get citizenship. :)
Or you can just get a 90 visa, hike from Georgia to Maine, skip into Canada and leave for Germany. If you are an illegal alien in this country, stay long enough and you may get citizenship. :)
If I did that I would most likely never again be able to legally travel to the US. Visa overstaying is a no-go.
Since you most likely know that I take your posting as your political opinion on immigration. And I won't talk about politics here.