UL tent Condensation?

[Farfyter]

Who has a 2 pound range UL tent that does not have much condensation problems? Been looking at the BA Flycreek 2 and reading about cond. problems .

[Venchka]

It's not the tent weight that causes condensation problems. Site choice, weather conditions, ventilation features of the tent, a polycryo gound sheet, etc. can reduce condensation.
If you need a 2 person tent, a tent that two REAL people can sleep in, The Flycreek doesn't qualify. Compare the floor size & shape, sloping walls & single front door to any tent with two doors on the long side, a rectangular floor, vertical walls and useful vestibles. The folks at TarpTent offer several models that provide significant increases in live able sheltered space for modest increases in total weight. An unliveable two pound tent is a burden compared to a 2 1/2-3 pound very comfortable tent.

Wayne

[Sandy of PA]

No problems with Z-packs tents, just don't pitch it on tall grass.

[HooKooDooKu]

I'm not sure what it is, but I've noticed an increase in condensation since I moved to Big Agnes tents.

For years I used a Kelty Vortex 2 for 2-man camping (the Gunnisson line replaced the old Vortex line), and more recently the Kelty Gunnisson 3.1 for 3-man camping. I camp primarily in GSMNP, and hardly experienced much condensation with either of these tents.

But when I replaced the Kelty Vortex 2 with a Big Agnes Lynx Pass 2, I immediately noticed an uptick in the amount and frequency of condensation.
I also had condensation issues with a Big Agnes Flycreek UL1 a friend let me borrow.
I now use a Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 as my 1-man tent. I'm not getting as much condensation in the Copper Spur UL2 as I did in the Flycreek UL1 or the Lynx Pass 2, but it's still more than I used to get in the Vortex2 or Gunnisson 3.1.

[Hosh]

Part of it might be the addition of more no-see-um lower on the tent body and a subsequent lowering of the fly to protect from rain. I have a UL3 & 4 and we do the same as you, 3 people in the 4, 2 people in the 3. If there is condensation, I normally backpack in the semi arid west, it usually is only on the inside of the rain fly. I also have a Lynx Pass 2 and use it in the late fall during elk season, it tends to condensate more, but it's only got a single door and the solid fabric goes pretty high on the tent body. The FlyCreek has it's tapered body, less volume and I don't think there's a fish eye vent on the back.

I think humans exhale like a liter of water overnight, so unless there's a lot of flow through breeze, it's got to go somewhere.

[Venchka]

Based on the info @ the Big Agnes web pages, their fabrics are Kleenex thin. Might have something to do with increased condensation. Definitely has a lot to do with diminished durability.
Compare the B.A. 10D & 15D fabric with TarpTent's 30D fabric throughout. B.A. products may be on every corner, but I'm not impressed the corner cutting in size & materials to try to compete with the Cottage Industry folks.
However, I did see my first B.A. Copper Spur 2 set up at REI last night. I could see how I might be very comfy in one of those. If I were ALONE! Then I got to thinking about the more liveable space in the StratoSpires, Rainbows, Moments & Scarps from TarpTent. I got over the Copper Spur in a hurry.

Wayne

[Puddlefish]

There's no such thing as condensation proof fabric. Short of some thick insulated material, unsuitable for a tent, the thickness doesn't matter at all. It's all about cold one side, warm the other with humidity. Ventilation is the easiest thing to change both the temp and/or the humidity. Not much you can do to affect it without a breeze to help even things out.

[Ktaadn]

I have a few BA tents. I don't have any issue with them.

[The Cleaner]

TarpTent Moment DW, it only happens sometimes but the inner tent wall is DWR coated and it eliminates the problem.Also much warmer in cooler,windy weather.

[Farfyter]

I am currently using a North Face Stormbreak1. It is just me and I wanted the extra room of the FC2 and the 2 pound weight range. You have to take all reviews with a grain of salt but there is a whole lot of cond. talk concerning the FC2.

[MuddyWaters]

There's no such thing as condensation proof fabric. Short of some thick insulated material, unsuitable for a tent, the thickness doesn't matter at all. It's all about cold one side, warm the other with humidity. Ventilation is the easiest thing to change both the temp and/or the humidity. Not much you can do to affect it without a breeze to help even things out.

But ventillation design certainly affects condensation tendency, as does the emissivity of the canopy material. The canopy texture and material and pitch can affect whether droplets build until fall off, or run down roof and walls to a safe area and not onto floor. There can be large differences in ability of shelters to manage condensation, as design is always compromise between competing aspects of a shelter.

[Puddlefish]

But ventillation design certainly affects condensation tendency, as does the emissivity of the canopy material. The canopy texture and material and pitch can affect whether droplets build until fall off, or run down roof and walls to a safe area and not onto floor. There can be large differences in ability of shelters to manage condensation, as design is always compromise between competing aspects of a shelter.

Agreed, my point was that thickness of material isn't a deciding factor.

[swisscross]

Condensation is more of the location and environment than the then itself.

Last trip..
BA CS UL1
Set up low next to creek, 25 degrees out, vestibule door fully opened. Bad condensation.
Next night, set up on ridge line, 29 degrees, vestibule closed. No condensation.

[Casey & Gina]

Based on the info @ the Big Agnes web pages, their fabrics are Kleenex thin. Might have something to do with increased condensation. Definitely has a lot to do with diminished durability.
Compare the B.A. 10D & 15D fabric with TarpTent's 30D fabric throughout. B.A. products may be on every corner, but I'm not impressed the corner cutting in size & materials to try to compete with the Cottage Industry folks.
However, I did see my first B.A. Copper Spur 2 set up at REI last night. I could see how I might be very comfy in one of those. If I were ALONE! Then I got to thinking about the more liveable space in the StratoSpires, Rainbows, Moments & Scarps from TarpTent. I got over the Copper Spur in a hurry.

Wayne

There is more money in making a lighterweight, less durable product. People will pay more for reduced weight, and will buy replacements more often. The Big Agnes Scout has a rectangular footprint, 54" wide, and long enough (7'4") for a very tall person or for putting all your gear down at the foot end. Beware the Scout Plus though, in order to compensate for the added weight of adding vestibule fabric, they reduced the width of the foot end. :(

In the 2016 model they also shortened the foot end of the regular Scout - the 2015 model was much better in my opinion as it was full height on the foot end and had an extra 2 inches of length. The only downside is that it weighed...wait for it...1 ounce more. Seriously, they significantly reduced the comfort and usability of the tent to save just ONE OUNCE. Popular business these days is reducing comfort in favor of a few grams. You can still get the 2015 model at a 33% discount for a few more days here: http://www.steepandcheap.com/gear-cache/big-agnes-collection/BAG3024-GRA

Stupid as it is, it's a customer-driven change. The only difference between the Fly Creek UL2 and Fly Creek 2 Platinum is 5 ounces and $200, yet customers will happily shell out the $40 per reduced ounce enough for them to keep producing it. But the Scout is an ounce lighter than the Platinum, and $250 less. :-?

As for condensation, it did get a lot of it in certain conditions, but it wasn't really a problem since it would never get down to the floor and gear - if it did run down at all it would have ended up going through to the outside thanks to the design. A quick wipe down with a camp towel in the morning took care of that, and if you didn't, your head would get a little wet when you brushed against it. That seems an acceptable tradeoff for a simple single-wall design.

Be careful with the zippers though - that ultra-thin fabric LOVES to snag in them.

[burger]

Tarp + inner net. Tarp + inner net. Tarp + inner net. (sorry, I get repetitive sometimes when the answer is so obvious)

Just get a tarp with an inner net. ideally, something with two entrances that can be pitched with the sides rolled up for maximum ventilation. We have a Six Moon Designs Haven + inner net that is perfect for this. There are many other models from SMD, Tarptent, Mountain Laurel Designs, and others). Compared to any regular tent, this option is going to give you more space and more pitching options while weighing less and having less condensation than a regular tent.

(Another really great thing about a tarp + inner is that you can leave the netting home if it's not going to be buggy and save half the weight.)

[Heliotrope]

Tarp + inner net. Tarp + inner net. Tarp + inner net. (sorry, I get repetitive sometimes when the answer is so obvious)

Just get a tarp with an inner net. ideally, something with two entrances that can be pitched with the sides rolled up for maximum ventilation. We have a Six Moon Designs Haven + inner net that is perfect for this. There are many other models from SMD, Tarptent, Mountain Laurel Designs, and others). Compared to any regular tent, this option is going to give you more space and more pitching options while weighing less and having less condensation than a regular tent.

(Another really great thing about a tarp + inner is that you can leave the netting home if it's not going to be buggy and save half the weight.)

Agreed! I use a ray way tarp and spitfire bug net. Raise and lower tarp as conditions warrant. No condensation issues. Tents without this variability and lack of ventilation can really get wet inside. I have had numerous experiences in tents where my bag was significantly wet from touching tent walls.



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