View Full Version : hiking the AT through Shanandoha Nat'l Park
Well..
I have been checking out the 2005 data book and it looks like in Shanandoha Nat'l Park in Virginia.. if one uses shelters as markers..one can do around 5-10 miles per day or 20+ per day and not much in between. For example..going North bound..first shelter is 7 miles in, second is 20 miles in. First too short, second too far.
How is the terrain in this park? is it fairly easy? one flies along..or challenging?
Can one just tent in woods between shelters? does the park have specific regs?
I watched the movie trek and in it they said that the park is not hiker friendly due to the infamous skyline drive that brings all the tourists in. The guys in this film blew through the park in 5 days!
So how has your experience been hiking through Shan. Natl park? any comments suggestions?
DavidNH
regs: http://www.patc.net/hiking/destinations/snpbackcountryregs.html
wrt to camping "anywhere" the biggest problems are getting 1/4 mile away from Skyline Drive and finding water close to where you want to camp - since it is mainly just a ridge walk the water sources are not overly plentiful
if you know where the old shelter sites are they often make good camping sites - ex Sawmill Run and Shaver Hollow - unfortunately you need to _know_ how to find these sites since they are not marked - the spring at Sawmill Run site is questionable in that it dries up in dry weather but the spring at Shaver Hollow is usually good - both of these sites are about 3 tenths from the AT
Sawmill Run site : http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=17&n=4220843&e=693835&s=50&size=s&datum=nad83&layer=DRG25
Shaver Hollow site : http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=17&n=4277731&e=730436&s=50&size=s&datum=nad83&layer=DRG25
TAMBOURINE
12-28-2005, 08:18
I have hiked all thru the Snp to get me ready for the trail this comming up summer .You are right about the shelters i have never had a problem with water source there at all the shelters are a little far apart and as far as friendly?Never had a problem out there i was a trail angel for many many hikers this yr .If i ((don't)) do my thru hike this yr i ((will)) be at big meadows again almost every weekend also usually right around the At so stop for dinner i usually bring pleanty of power bars and poweraid for yall.
The AT in Shenandoah National Park basically follows the ridge. And the ridge does not have a lot of ups and downs. So, it's easy to make miles. Along the way you will find bootleg camp sites that are legal to camp at in addition to the established shelter sites (huts). Biggest restriction is no camping within 1/4 mile of Skyline Drive that parallels the AT, and no camping at day use shelters (Bird's Nests).
Spirit Walker
12-28-2005, 10:24
One option that we used - there are also the formal campgrounds available. We stayed at several along the way. We even stayed at a cabin in Skyland. With four thruhikers, the cost is minimal, there are showers, laundry, meals, beer, music . . .
And yes, the trail is relatively easy. We were doing 20-25 mile days every day from Pearisburg to Del. Water Gap.
Well..
I have been checking out the 2005 data book and it looks like in Shanandoha Nat'l Park in Virginia.. if one uses shelters as markers..one can do around 5-10 miles per day or 20+ per day and not much in between. For example..going North bound..first shelter is 7 miles in, second is 20 miles in. First too short, second too far.
How is the terrain in this park? is it fairly easy? one flies along..or challenging?
Can one just tent in woods between shelters? does the park have specific regs?
I watched the movie trek and in it they said that the park is not hiker friendly due to the infamous skyline drive that brings all the tourists in. The guys in this film blew through the park in 5 days!
So how has your experience been hiking through Shan. Natl park? any comments suggestions?
DavidNH
yeah carry a hammock with a tarp like this,i love stealth camping:cool: neo
http://whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/showimage.php?i=9410&catid=member&imageuser=3462
Well..
I have been checking out the 2005 data book and it looks like in Shanandoha Nat'l Park in Virginia.. if one uses shelters as markers..one can do around 5-10 miles per day or 20+ per day and not much in between. For example..going North bound..first shelter is 7 miles in, second is 20 miles in. First too short, second too far.
How is the terrain in this park? is it fairly easy? one flies along..or challenging?
Can one just tent in woods between shelters? does the park have specific regs?
I watched the movie trek and in it they said that the park is not hiker friendly due to the infamous skyline drive that brings all the tourists in. The guys in this film blew through the park in 5 days!
So how has your experience been hiking through Shan. Natl park? any comments suggestions?
DavidNH
who needs shelters anyway:cool: neo
http://whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/showimage.php?i=9410&catid=member&imageuser=3462
Blissful
12-28-2005, 23:13
We sectioned hiked SNP this spring and fall and had a great time with super views, easy hiking, food, and fun! But finding campsites outside of the shelter area is an extreme challenge as the trail runs along a ridge line. And the rules are pretty stiff for backcountry camping. We saw some hikers get a $70 fine this fall - but they were camping right by a parking lot off the Drive and were still there at 10 AM (like duh, the ranger is gonna bust you!).
Usually, though, by the time thru hikers make it to SNP, the park is a breeze as you're in good shape. So 20 miles is not out of line. We did 14 miles and we were NOT in shape.
anneandbenhike
12-29-2005, 00:46
We hiked through the entire Shennies in October of this year and found that the first shelter (7 miles in from the beginning of the Skyline Drive) was perfect since we had to do some resupplying in Waynesboro. By the time we ate, did laundry and shopped it was good to have only 7 miles to go. The rest of the shelters are fairly well spaced, especially if you hike to any waysides which are as much as a mile from the trail. There is very little camping around some of the shelters if they are full. We did stealth camp a couple times without any problem except for the water. Just stay filled up and you will be fine. It is a rolling hike but you can make the miles easily and enjoy the side hikes if the weather is good...the views are awesome. There are lots of places to eat..we highly recommend breakfast at Skyland!! You will definitely not be in wilderness there. We had rain for all seven days we were in the park and there were very few cars on the parkway because of the rain, thus very quiet. We have heard that it can be quite noisy in the spring and fall which are good times to hike. You will be close to the parkway all the time you are there.
Old Hickory MH
12-29-2005, 01:16
Did the park the last week of Sept. Only problem was the lack of water the first few days, after that the only thing to gripe about was the constant motorcycle and sport car noise. The trail in the park is well maintained and graded nicely, wildlife walk up to you and the people we encountered were curious about what we were doing and helpful most of the time. Going shelter to shelter with stops at the waysides and siteseeing side trails was the norm. We tented 2 of our 8 day trip with no problems, although some of the tent sites at the shelters left something to be desired. SKYLAND BREAKFAST, a must!
Old Hickory....I'd rather die living life, than live life dying.
The Solemates
12-29-2005, 11:20
shenandoah is a cake walk. easily done in 3-4 days if you are feeling up to it. the trail is flat, wide, and well traveled. but there is a great temptation to spend several hours at the waysides and campgrounds along the way as well. if you are wanting to spend a week or so hiking it, dont worry about the shelters. stay at the ones you find yourself naturally stopping at, and bring a tent along and camp whenever you cant reach the next one. you will figure it out. you'll do fine. SNP is forgiving.
Kerosene
12-29-2005, 11:32
I seem to recall that you'll be doing a thru-hike, DavidNH. If so, you should be in good enough shape by then that you should be able to string together a week of 20-milers through SNP if you choose to do so. The terrain and footpath is relatively easy and the days should be pretty long by then. You should also realize that whatever plans you make this winter will be out the window by the time you get to SNP and your body forces you to stop at every roadside feed to refuel. For mileage planning purposes I suggest you estimate 15-20 mile days, perhaps with a day off at Skyland or Matthews Arm.
We sectioned hiked SNP this spring and fall and had a great time with super views, easy hiking, food, and fun! But finding campsites outside of the shelter area is an extreme challenge as the trail runs along a ridge line. And the rules are pretty stiff for backcountry camping. We saw some hikers get a $70 fine this fall - but they were camping right by a parking lot off the Drive and were still there at 10 AM (like duh, the ranger is gonna bust you!).
Usually, though, by the time thru hikers make it to SNP, the park is a breeze as you're in good shape. So 20 miles is not out of line. We did 14 miles and we were NOT in shape.
the key to stealthing SNP is to keep out of sight of the roads and fee camping areas / picnic areas - the main way people get caught is if they can be seen by a Ranger while the Ranger drives by - if you also keep out of sight of the trails you are golden since on rare occasions a Ranger may also be hiking a trail- I agree however with neo - its a heck of a lot easier to stealth SNP in a hammock - it really expands you options as to where to camp
LongIslandBob
12-31-2005, 11:36
David,
Switching to trailrunners from boots in VA (Damascus or Pearisburg, depending on how early in the season) will help you cover more miles easier, particularly in SNP. PA can be a little tough with them, so maybe switch back then for the remainder of the trail, although you get used to the lighter weight shoes. SOunds like you've got it pretty well dialed though, and you're asking the right questions, getting the righ equipment. Good luck! Bob
Blue Jay
12-31-2005, 17:08
Relax, you worry to much. SNP is one of the most beautiful places on earth. By the time you get there it will be a walk in the park.
Alligator
01-02-2006, 16:20
Any information about hiking through the park in January? Does skyline drive close frequently?
LostInSpace
01-02-2006, 16:42
Any information about hiking through the park in January? Does skyline drive close frequently?
If there is snow on Skyline Drive, then it is likely closed. The NPS does not plow or salt Skyline Drive.
"Portions of the Skyline Drive, the famed mountain road through Shenandoah National Park, will be closed at night during hunting season, Park Superintendent Chas Cartwright announced today. He noted that this is the twenty-seventh year that this closure has been undertaken and stressed its importance at reducing illegal hunting activity within the park, a sanctuary for wildlife, during the Commonwealth's hunting season outside the park.
From November 14, 2005, through January 7, 2006, the Skyline Drive between Front Royal (Mile 0 at U.S. Highway 340) and Thornton Gap (Mile 31 at U.S. Highway 211), and between Swift Run Gap (Mile 65 at U.S. Highway 33) and Rockfish Gap (Mile 105 at U.S. Highway 250), will be closed daily between 5:00 p.m. and 8:00 a.m. The central portion of the Drive, between Thornton Gap and Swift Run Gap, will remain open for overnight access to Skyland Resort and Big Meadows Campground until those facilities close on November 27. Then, beginning November 28, 2005, through January 7, 2006, the entire length of the Skyline Drive will be closed daily from 5:00 p.m. until 8:00 a.m."
Any information about hiking through the park in January? Does skyline drive close frequently?
i just returned from the shenny. skyline drive was open only in the central portion of the park. the a.t. was snow- and ice-covered. you could hike it but it wasn't easy.
Alligator
01-02-2006, 17:29
i just returned from the shenny. skyline drive was open only in the central portion of the park. the a.t. was snow- and ice-covered. you could hike it but it wasn't easy.
That's what the phone messages said too. They were expecting temps in the 40's, I am hoping it melts. I can be prepared for snow and ice, but not having our drop car locked behind the gates. I won't be leaving until 2-3 weeks. Do you think there was enough snow for snowshoes? Icy enough to warrant crampons?
a few notes:
1.) Skyline drive is plowed but only during normal maintenance worked hours day shift weekdays - they also will "sand" it (lately looks like small pea gravel but anyways
2.) the NPS staff will close the drive even on a forecast of snow/ice - the snow does not need to be on the ground
3.) if you get locked in you can just call the park emergency number from the payphones near the gate or from your cellphone if you get lucky on the service - I think all gates have a payphone within walking distance (up to 0.2 miles) - they will tell you what to do from there (probably wait for the on call ranger to come and let you out)
4.) wrt to snowshoes - highly likely you won't need them but it has happened at least once in the last four years that ther was enough snow for me to use my snowshoes so ... and crampons are probably a good idea for Jan IMO - you may not need them but I would bring mine for that type of a hike
teachergal
01-02-2006, 22:02
You can on to the AT from Chester Gap in the North District of SNP w/o going on Skyline Drive - Terrapin Station Hostel is right there too... Check out a detailed map of VA - the roads should be on there - I know you take 522 out of Front Royal - I'm not being vague to discourage anyone I just don't have a map in front of me. Chester Gap appears to be safe place to park a car - it's a quiet mountainside neighborhood - also you might be allowed to park at the hostel although I'd call 1st because I believe the hostel is only open during thru-hiking season. The road into Chester Gap is quite windy although it is paved most of the way - not sure how well it gets treated after a storm although there are enough houses back up in there that I imagine it gets some kind of treatment...use caution.
You can also access the AT in the central district from rt 211 at Thorton Gap - you can park in the old Panorama parking area - the lower part. If you are heading west on 211 you have to pass under Skyline Drive then turn left into the parking area. 211 is a main highway so should be plowed/salted.
Lost Soul
01-02-2006, 22:25
Beware the rock slides in the park as the rocks tend to rock. In June 97' I was hiking behind a another hiker doing her through hike and a the second to last rock pivoted under her foot and even though she was using a pair of lekis she fell face forward onto the last rock. Her forward momentum kept her sliding forward and rather than breaking her teeth she gound them down about 1/2 way. Imagine a file scraping across them and you'll get hte picture. Nothing left but a white powder on the rock surface. Fortunately the roads are close and we stopped a car about 10 minutes after it happened. A nice day off in town to have her teeth capped and see the stalagtite organ in the cave near town, kinda cool. Unfortunately she left the trail about a month later to persue another adventure. There can be benifits to having that road right there.
Alligator
01-03-2006, 01:58
Thanks everyone for the information so far. I just pulled out the Gazetteer and took a look at the Central section. It looks like Rt 33 also is an access point. The central portion of the park between these two points is 35 miles, a good three day winter hike.
I got stuck up on the Blue Ridge Parkway once in the parking area of Mt. Mitchell. The rangers there came and let me out, so that's good to know HOI. I'll skip the snowshoes and consider crampons.
Cookerhiker
01-03-2006, 10:33
Thanks everyone for the information so far. I just pulled out the Gazetteer and took a look at the Central section. It looks like Rt 33 also is an access point. The central portion of the park between these two points is 35 miles, a good three day winter hike.
I got stuck up on the Blue Ridge Parkway once in the parking area of Mt. Mitchell. The rangers there came and let me out, so that's good to know HOI. I'll skip the snowshoes and consider crampons.
Gator, I did a day hike in the Southern section in early December when snow and ice closed Skyline Drive south of Rt. 33. The rangers allowed me to park outside the gate on the narrow Skyline Drive shoulder. If you're going to leave a car there for your hike, you may want to park outside the gate either on the Drive or by the entrance station so that you're not trapped behind a closed gate.
I'm heading up there again on Thursday and will check it out.
That's what the phone messages said too. They were expecting temps in the 40's, I am hoping it melts. I can be prepared for snow and ice, but not having our drop car locked behind the gates. I won't be leaving until 2-3 weeks. Do you think there was enough snow for snowshoes? Icy enough to warrant crampons?
there's not enough snow for snowshoes but you could definitely use crampons. i needed some saturday. i slipped on some damn ice and busted my knee pretty good. i managed to make it to rock spring hut for the evening but had to hobble out of there the next day.
Alligator
01-03-2006, 17:38
there's not enough snow for snowshoes but you could definitely use crampons. i needed some saturday. i slipped on some damn ice and busted my knee pretty good. i managed to make it to rock spring hut for the evening but had to hobble out of there the next day.
I've decided to bring a 6 pt. pair of crampons.
Any idea how cold it was? Any water issues? I was reading that the park was particularly dry this year. My greatest concerns are Bearfence Mt. and Rock Spring Huts.
... Any water issues? I was reading that the park was particularly dry this year. My greatest concerns are Bearfence Mt. and Rock Spring Huts.
My wife and I spent the night at Bearfence Mt. hut in late November. The spring there normally has a fairly robust and reliable flow, but it wasn't moving too swiftly when we were there. The weather over the past couple months has been quite a bit wetter than it was during the summer/fall so I would imagine that the water situation, at Bearfence anyway, has gotten better.
I've decided to bring a 6 pt. pair of crampons.
Any idea how cold it was? Any water issues? I was reading that the park was particularly dry this year. My greatest concerns are Bearfence Mt. and Rock Spring Huts.
i don't think you'll have any water problems. rock spring is gushing. black rock hut's spring sometimes has issues but i think it's ok now.
Cookerhiker
01-20-2006, 20:46
I just returned from SNP doing trail maintenance. Removed 2 blowdowns only using my 30" bowsaw - got a good workout!
Anyway, the unseasonably warm weather even reached SNP at the crest of HighTop where my section is. Temps in the mid-50s have melted all the snow and the only ice on the trail was extremely thin pieces at the top. However, I also saw ice from Skyline Drive clinging to northern exposure rocks. Skyline Drive is completely open.
Another point: in my 2.2 mile section, I encountered 3 springs which I hadn't seen previously since I took over the section last April. They're obviously ephemeral but I infer that all designated water sources in the park should be flush. The spring at the crest of High Top was flowing liberally.
Should be great hiking now. If I wasn't taking off for Florida Monday, I'd hit the trail.
Alligator
01-20-2006, 21:39
My buddy and I were there last weekend. We hiked the north district. The wind was howling through there, with the snow blowing sideways on Sat. Lows around 27. The blowdowns weren't bad really though, but I think there were a couple fresh ones. It was windy Sunday too, with the wind dying down on Monday morning. There were a couple of people in the park, but they closed Skyline on Sunday I think, maybe Sat. too. Great time to go, no people and great views with the leaves off.
aqua blaze. shenandoah river from waynesboro (outfitter is located in elk garden i think) to harpers ferry. 106 miles, bout 6 days, class II water max. there are several dams that you have to portage, and it's an awesome trip. i can't remember the name of the canoeing outfitter that rented us the boats, but it was the only one nearby. there was only one designated campsite at about half way. the rest of it you are on your own. got some strange looks and some questions from some farmers, but other than that, no problems. every bridge is a possible re-supply, for ice and beer.
Cookerhiker
01-21-2006, 18:12
aqua blaze. shenandoah river from waynesboro (outfitter is located in elk garden i think) to harpers ferry. 106 miles, bout 6 days, class II water max. there are several dams that you have to portage, and it's an awesome trip. i can't remember the name of the canoeing outfitter that rented us the boats, but it was the only one nearby. there was only one designated campsite at about half way. the rest of it you are on your own. got some strange looks and some questions from some farmers, but other than that, no problems. every bridge is a possible re-supply, for ice and beer.
I didn't research this before posting but I recall 3 long-time outfitters serving the Shenandoah:
Shenandoah River Outfitters
Downriver Canoe Co.
340 OutfittersPerhaps they have websites - do a search.
Ok I am really silly here but I am section hiking Shenandoahs this summer...while planning I also noticed the distance between huts. What book/resources did you all use to find the campgrounds, eating places etc? I do not have a current AT companion. 20 mpd is a little much for me. Is all the info in the companion?
v
Cookerhiker
01-21-2006, 21:34
Ok I am really silly here but I am section hiking Shenandoahs this summer...while planning I also noticed the distance between huts. What book/resources did you all use to find the campgrounds, eating places etc? I do not have a current AT companion. 20 mpd is a little much for me. Is all the info in the companion?
v
They're in the Companion but in addition, visit the NPS website for SNP at http://www.nps.gov/shen/home.htm for a description of the park facilities and their operating hours. Everything should be open in summer.
I didn't research this before posting but I recall 3 long-time outfitters serving the Shenandoah:
Shenandoah River Outfitters
Downriver Canoe Co.
340 OutfittersPerhaps they have websites - do a search.
Downriver sounds like who we used. great trip. we couldn't go all the way to harpers ferry, but they picked us up at the VA/WV state line and drove us to harpers ferry.