View Full Version : Hole Cutting Question for Ion stove
jasonklass
01-02-2006, 18:11
After reading the thread about the wedding tins, I went out and bought some to build an Ion stove. My question is what do you use to cut the 1" diameter center hole? Everything at the hardware store looked like it would rip the little tin to shreds! I ended up buying a circle cutter but when I got it home I realized it wouldn't work either--also it's for a drill press not a hand-held drill. What do you use? I was thinking of something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42828 or this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38425 although the teeth look too big for such soft aluminum.
I was also considering some of these: http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2 F&fkr=1&from=R8&satitle=circle+cutter&category0=
Also, what do you use to cut the top section off? I first tried turning it around with a utility knife but since the walls are thicker than soda cans it took forever. I gave up and used scissors which warped the shape. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please keep in mind I don't really have a decent work space--just my kitchen.
SGT Rock
01-02-2006, 18:40
What I use now is a drill to make a pilot hole, then finish the cut with a chasis punch: http://cgi.ebay.com/Greenlee-Radio-Chassis-Punch-NOS-NO-Reserve_W0QQitemZ7577800127QQcategoryZ73118QQssPag eNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I also used at one time a 1" paddle bit for cutting woden holes - just go slow:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6024484438&category=50384
From my experience those hole saws will tear up the lid and not work well.
An alternate idea is to simply mark a 1" diameter hole on the metal and then scribe cut the hole out with a knife tip - this is the field expediant way I made them for a long time.
MisterSweetie
01-02-2006, 18:44
I did the second method, rock. Made a 1" mark (actually used a quarter for this, which seemed to be right), then scribed it with the utility knife. I was making this with v8 cans, so it might be different with the tins.
The scribing works.
It was the smaller holes I had a problem with.
SGT Rock
01-02-2006, 18:56
For the smaller holes I jost eyeballed 6 for the top on original models, then later I made a guide that had a 1" dowel rod in the center - it just slips in and guides me while I make the outside smaller holes with a drill.
I recently made a design change for the stands that improves efficiency a little and makes the stove where you can leave it together when you store it instead of having to set it up every time (unless you want to). I just ordered a batch from a metal cutting shop to see how well they can make them for me while I am gone. I hope to get a diagram up before I leave.
jasonklass
01-02-2006, 19:16
What I use now is a drill to make a pilot hole, then finish the cut with a chasis punch: http://cgi.ebay.com/Greenlee-Radio-Chassis-Punch-NOS-NO-Reserve_W0QQitemZ7577800127QQcategoryZ73118QQssPag eNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I also used at one time a 1" paddle bit for cutting woden holes - just go slow:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6024484438&category=50384
From my experience those hole saws will tear up the lid and not work well.
An alternate idea is to simply mark a 1" diameter hole on the metal and then scribe cut the hole out with a knife tip - this is the field expediant way I made them for a long time.
Thanks Sarge! Can you explain to me how the chassis punch works? I also might try out the paddle bit.
Skidsteer
01-02-2006, 19:23
A uni-bit or step-bit of the proper size also does a nice job.
jasonklass
01-02-2006, 19:41
A uni-bit or step-bit of the proper size also does a nice job.
Is there a Unibit that goes to 1"? I couldn't find one.
Skidsteer
01-02-2006, 20:37
Is there a Unibit that goes to 1"? I couldn't find one.
You can find them in electrical supply stores. Not cheap, though.
SGT Rock
01-02-2006, 21:44
With a chasis punch you make a pilot hole that can be a little "ragged" with a standard drill, then you use the punch which basically is a screw down punch to cut the hole the diameter you use, you can probably find a good deal on on at ebay - I got mine free from my father who used it back when he was an engineer.
RockyTrail
01-02-2006, 23:08
Jason:
The tool Sgt Rock mentioned is called a chassis punch or commonly called "Greenlee punch," the name Greenlee is a specific manufacturer. They are used to punch clean-edged holes in sheet metal. They used to be a lot more common in the tube-radio days when you used them to punch out holes in an aluminum radio chassis to install a tube socket.
If you look at the picture of the one on ebay, it works by compressing the two large metal cups together by means of a nut and bolt. The cups have sharp edges and bite through the metal slowly as you tighten down the bolt. Makes a clean cut without tearing.
The downside is that the last time I priced one of these (1970's?) I remember something like $30-$40 new...a used one could be much less. You could search ebay or ask any machinist friends, or find a well-stocked harware store, they will know what a Greenlee punch is. I never purchased one (because of price) but borrowed quite a few. Don't buy the one shown above on ebay, it's only 15/32 diameter and also has a keyhole cutout notch on the side, you probably want a standard round one. They make several sizes...Oh well, probably more than you wanted to know!:sun
jasonklass
01-02-2006, 23:21
Thanks-
Unfortunately, eBay didn't have any that were 1". I'm going to keep my eye out for one.
jasonklass
01-03-2006, 00:34
Jason:
The tool Sgt Rock mentioned is called a chassis punch or commonly called "Greenlee punch," the name Greenlee is a specific manufacturer. They are used to punch clean-edged holes in sheet metal. They used to be a lot more common in the tube-radio days when you used them to punch out holes in an aluminum radio chassis to install a tube socket.
If you look at the picture of the one on ebay, it works by compressing the two large metal cups together by means of a nut and bolt. The cups have sharp edges and bite through the metal slowly as you tighten down the bolt. Makes a clean cut without tearing.
The downside is that the last time I priced one of these (1970's?) I remember something like $30-$40 new...a used one could be much less. You could search ebay or ask any machinist friends, or find a well-stocked harware store, they will know what a Greenlee punch is. I never purchased one (because of price) but borrowed quite a few. Don't buy the one shown above on ebay, it's only 15/32 diameter and also has a keyhole cutout notch on the side, you probably want a standard round one. They make several sizes...Oh well, probably more than you wanted to know!:sun
Thanks for the info. I do want just a round one. And, one inch. By the way, what does the keyhole cutout do? I guess I'll just have to wait until the right one shows up on eBay.............................................. .................................................. .........................I'm waiting........................................... .................................................. ...........
RockyTrail
01-03-2006, 12:34
A standard Greenlee punch will simply make a large round hole in sheet metal.
The keyhole cutout version makes a large round hole with a small notch cutout extended off one side of the large hole (kinda looks like a keyhole on an old-timey doorlock). This type of hole is used to install toggle switches (an on/off switch,etc). When installed, a part of the switch fits into the notch so that the switch cannot rotate in the hole. Otherwise the switch can rotate and come loose, not good...
jasonklass
01-03-2006, 21:45
A standard Greenlee punch will simply make a large round hole in sheet metal.
The keyhole cutout version makes a large round hole with a small notch cutout extended off one side of the large hole (kinda looks like a keyhole on an old-timey doorlock). This type of hole is used to install toggle switches (an on/off switch,etc). When installed, a part of the switch fits into the notch so that the switch cannot rotate in the hole. Otherwise the switch can rotate and come loose, not good...
Got it. Thanks for the info. Anyone have a round Greenlee chassis punch they'd sell me?
Animal Man
01-03-2006, 23:27
Multi tooth hole saw will cut light metals very well if you run them in reverse. just clamp everything down. hole saw for metal only have one or two carbide teeth on them. just go at a slow speed.
I use a cutting bit in my Dremel. Emits a horrendous shrieking noise that sounds like cat love, but cuts wedding tins fine.
Big Dawg
01-04-2006, 21:53
Got it. Thanks for the info. Anyone have a round Greenlee chassis punch they'd sell me?
No, I want to keep mine, but I got my chasis/greenlee punch ("manual knockout punch kit") to make the 1" center hole & the "hand punch" to make the smaller holes, both bought from from www.harborfreight.com. My Ion stove turned out great!!
jasonklass
01-04-2006, 22:26
No, I want to keep mine, but I got my chasis/greenlee punch ("manual knockout punch kit") to make the 1" center hole & the "hand punch" to make the smaller holes, both bought from from www.harborfreight.com (http://www.harborfreight.com). My Ion stove turned out great!!
OK for 20 bucks, I might buy the kit. I'll probably get a lot of use out of it since I like to try out different designs. But before I buy it--you just drill a pilot hole, put the pieces together with the threaded part going through the pilot hole and turn the nut with pliers until it punches out the hole. Is this correct?
Skidsteer
01-04-2006, 22:44
OK for 20 bucks, I might buy the kit. I'll probably get a lot of use out of it since I like to try out different designs. But before I buy it--you just drill a pilot hole, put the pieces together with the threaded part going through the pilot hole and turn the nut with pliers until it punches out the hole. Is this correct?
Yes; Pliers or the appropriate sized wrench, socket, etc.