PDA

View Full Version : Looking for NH advice



Yiddo
06-19-2016, 22:04
Hello all - A buddy and I are looking to do a 7-10 day trip in NH, as I have to be up there for a wedding. I'd ideally like to do the presidential range, or atleast Mt. Washington. Does anyone have any tips or is familiar with this area to give suggestions for a 7-10 day backpacking trip in that area? All info and recommendations help

colorado_rob
06-19-2016, 22:08
Two tips: get in shape and carry but adequate gear!

colorado_rob
06-19-2016, 22:09
Fantastic place, our favorite on entire AT

colorado_rob
06-19-2016, 22:10
Two tips: get in shape and carry light but adequate gear!this is what I meant

Venchka
06-19-2016, 22:39
Watch the weather.
Watch the weather.

Wayne


Old. Slow. "Smarter than the average bear."

Yiddo
06-20-2016, 00:02
looking for tips more on places to start/stop, accesibility, and stuff of the like

DLANOIE
06-20-2016, 01:07
How about the Hut to Hut traverse.

peakbagger
06-20-2016, 07:05
You are asking a very broad question, we need more info like how old are you, what is your hiking background, what is your general level of conditioning, and how big is your checkbook. These all factor in.

The "easy" way to the do the whites, is to make reservations in the AMC mountain huts (outdoors.org). They are not cheap (approx. $150 a night) but are located right along the AT a days hiking apart. These are not hotels, they are mountain huts that hold 36 to 96 guests, they serve breakfast and lunch. They don't have showers. They are very popular and its doubtful you can get string of reservations at this late date.

Alternatively you can backpack the AT, there are USFS and AMC campsites along most of the route but they are very popular. There is one long section of the AT from Crawford Notch to Mt Madison where camping options are very limited along the AT, along some areas you have to drop off the ridgeline a mile or so and 1000 feet of elevation to find a flat spot. This requires a lot of planning.

If you just want to backpack and not fixed on the Whites, the Long Trail in VT is set up better for backpacking with numerous club run shelters and campsites along the way. If you stick to the northern end, the crowds are far less than the southern section that is shared with the AT. There are also several nice backpacks in the whites that skip the AT. These requite more planning and stringing together 7 to 10 days would be tough I would suggest breaking the trip into 2 or three shorter sections with break in between. If you want a more remote experience, the Coos trail starts in the Whites and runs tot he Canadian border, the logistics are difficult as it runs through remote territory with not a lot of chance to resupply.

As commented before, unless you are in shape and used to the terrain, you could get beat up an spit out by the whites. Many folks come with ambitious plans and have to either quite or scale back. This includes northbound AT thruhikers who frequently hit the whites and have to halve their daily mileage.

There is lot to be said to set up at a campsite and day hike. There are some limited lesser known legal free camping spots hidden away in the National forest. No facilities but you can set up and use them for a base camp. There are hundreds of day hikes that will get you to all the summits and depending on you condition you can cover a lot more territory without a pack.

A key resource which is the only guide you need is the AMC White Mountain Guide. It has all the trail descriptions and all the maps you need. Its overkill for a strictly an AT hike but essential for car camping and day hiking.

LIhikers
06-20-2016, 09:59
My wife and I did the Presidential traverse and we aren't in great shape, although we are experienced hikers.
We were able to make it from campsite to campsite every day.
I'm going to guess, as my memory isn't great, but I think it was 5 days of hiking and 1 zero day due to weather.

Yiddo
06-20-2016, 16:10
I'm unfamiliar with the area. I don't think the huts are in my budget really. Did you use them or what did you do?

Slo-go'en
06-20-2016, 18:04
I'm unfamiliar with the area. I don't think the huts are in my budget really. Did you use them or what did you do?

With good planning and a little luck, most of the huts can be avoided, but this can result in some very long and difficult days. Hiking NH and through the Whites is not a trivial matter. This is why there is at least one rescue a week and the occasional death, typically 2-3 a year.

There are a couple of on going threads about camping in NH going on right now that you should read.

LIhikers
06-20-2016, 18:50
We didn't stay at any huts, we used our tent in legal campsites.
The first night and the zero day were at the campground near the Mizpah hut.
The next campsite was at a shelter northbound from Mt. Washington, I don't recall the name.
It was built by some other organization other than the AMC.
Next was Valley Way campsite, down hill from Madison Hut.
Then Osgood campsite for a night.
Finished at the AMC center, the name escapes me, near Gorham.

Slo-go'en
06-20-2016, 20:13
We didn't stay at any huts, we used our tent in legal campsites.
The first night and the zero day were at the campground near the Mizpah hut.
The next campsite was at a shelter northbound from Mt. Washington, I don't recall the name.
It was built by some other organization other than the AMC.
Next was Valley Way campsite, down hill from Madison Hut.
Then Osgood campsite for a night.
Finished at the AMC center, the name escapes me, near Gorham.

Nauman tent site by Mitzpah
The Perch, (or if you go a little farther, the Gray Knob cabin or Crag Camp) which are RMC (Randolph Mt Club) facilities.
Valley way tent site.
Osgood campsite.
Pinkham Notch.

Nauman to the Perch is one long, hard day going NOBO, but that's the sequence of events one has to do for the Presidential traverse if you don't want to use the huts.

rafe
06-20-2016, 20:21
Nauman to Perch is the bugaboo for me. Could maybe do it on a perfect day, with a light pack and a very early start...

From Perch to Pinkham shouldn't be too hard for a day's hiking.

rickb
06-20-2016, 21:01
Hello all - A buddy and I are looking to do a 7-10 day trip in NH, as I have to be up there for a wedding. I'd ideally like to do the presidential range, or atleast Mt. Washington. Does anyone have any tips or is familiar with this area to give suggestions for a 7-10 day backpacking trip in that area? All info and recommendations help

You could always park at the base of Mt Washington and take the train or stage coach (a van) up to the summit and walk south. I am serious-- if the reception was any good you sure won't want to kill yourself on day one, right?

If you hike a decent pace you wil have time left by the time you reach Franconia notch (where there is an AMC shuttle, I think) so you keep moving until you reach Kinsman Notch, where you hitch to or get picked up by the owners of the Notch Hostel.

You then recuperate or take a bike into North Wodstock to drink and eat. You sign up at the hostel to be dropped off in Franconia Notch the next morning where the AMC shuttle arrives to take you back to your car.

When you post pitcures on your blog you use words like "summited Mount Washington" rather than climbed-- no one will be the wiser.

No hut stays are needed or recommended for this.

nsherry61
06-20-2016, 22:44
Geez. You guys make the Whites out to be a great scary beast of an area. Yeah, if you're used to hiking 20 miles per day out west, you will be doing 10-15 in the Whites. If you do 10 miles per day in most other places, you'll probably do 5-7 in the Whites. Yeah, it's very rugged, with endless rock hopping and a complete lack of switchbacks, so you are often climbing straight up washed out trails/stream beds. But, there are lots of beautiful areas and with a little creativity, planning, and not expecting high miles, the Whites are great!! Yes, camp sights along the ridge lines are often scarce, but they are plentiful off the ridge lines, and even along the ridges, they aren't non-existent, they just require some planning and/or "campsite" flexibility.

As for weather, in the summer, they're mountains. Storms can happen. Walking ridge lines in storms can be either fun or a bad idea depending on the situation. So, make sure you have planned out alternatives to ridge walks if a storm blows in. And, there are generally many, many ways down off most of the ridges in the Whites. It's a friggen spider web of trails in most places. And, in the summer, although storms do happen, they are not all that likely in any given week.

Discussing the dangers of the Whites to New Englanders is a lot like discussing the dangers of bears or rattle snakes to outdoor people in general. They just aren't as big an issue as many people make them out to be, especially if you walk in prepared with basic knowledge and behave with reasonable common sense.

DLANOIE
06-20-2016, 22:54
I didnt realize the huts prices were that high. Last time I went through there it was still under a hundred dollars a night. I have never stayed at any of the Huts myself. The food is good though.

rafe
06-20-2016, 23:38
I'm unfamiliar with the area. I don't think the huts are in my budget really. Did you use them or what did you do?

Get the AMC guide book, or at least the map set. Or get a detailed map that includes all of the White Mountains, not just the AT. You can easily piece together a blue blaze loop of almost any length that will lead you to the AT. There are dozens of trailheads on the Kancamagus Highway (Rte. 112) that lead into the Pemi Wilderness, and almost any of those can be followed up to the AT at some point.

Also consider some of the trails and peaks south of the Kanc. Very rugged, several shelters and camp opportunities, and awesome views looking south to Lake Winnipesaukee, or in any direction, really.

Staying mostly on the blue blazes has tons of advantages -- plenty of water, camping opportunities, no crowds, no overt AMC presence. Like hiking/camping ought to be.

The only real problem is the one that thru-hikers face: following the AT over long distances in the White Mountains. For sure, the AT has most of the best views -- miles of bare ridgeline with 360 degree views -- but following it like a thru-hiker is a logistically pain in the derriere.

MuddyWaters
06-21-2016, 03:49
Hello all - A buddy and I are looking to do a 7-10 day trip in NH, as I have to be up there for a wedding. I'd ideally like to do the presidential range, or atleast Mt. Washington. Does anyone have any tips or is familiar with this area to give suggestions for a 7-10 day backpacking trip in that area? All info and recommendations help

Bring a map!

The whites are criss crossed with dozens of trails. Maybe hundreds.

The White Mountains waterproof map by Steve Bushey is better than the AMC ones.

http://www.mapadventures.com/collections/new-hampshire/products/white-mountains-waterproof-trail-map

Also available on amazon.com.

Most people do 2/3 - 3/4 of normal mileage. Half is a bit low to assume, but is conservative for planning. People that overestimate their capability, and underestimate weather, get into trouble....or worse.

hikernutcasey
06-21-2016, 09:46
My buddy and I did the Whites (Franconia to Pinkham) last August. I had asked a lot of questions and received a lot of good advice from folks on the forum. Take from it what you will but here is my trip report:

I thought I would share some thoughts about my trip now that I have returned. First of all, I just want to say that no matter what you think you know about the Whites, until you hike them you have no idea. I did my homework and still came away astonished at the difficulty of the hiking up there. It's just punishing. To all of you who gave me advice about the daily mileages I appreciate it. The trip went great and even though the days were long the mileage we did each day worked out great. Here is a summary of the trip:

Day 1: Franconia Notch to Garfield campsite: Yes, we made the campsite on the first day! It was not easy and was probably one of the most physically demanding days I've ever had on the trail. It was sunny and warm and the views were spectacular. We made it to Garfield by 6:00 in the evening and were beat. An unbelievable first day in the Whites to kick things off.

Day 2: Garfield campsite to Ethan pond: at 14 miles this was our longest day but it was doable due to the stretch from Zealand Hut over to the pond. It was still a very long day and the climb up south twin was steep! Again it was hot but sunny and more views to be had.

Day 3: Ethan pond to Naumen campsite: We sent ourselves a food re-supply to the Wiley house in Crawford Notch so this added 2 miles of road walking to this day. Again it was really hot this day and the climb up to Webster almost killed us with heavier packs from the re-supply and having to carry plenty of water. Especially the stretch from Webster cliffs over to the peak was brutal. You are exposed and it was 80+ degrees having to climb up all those rock faces right before the top. That was really, really tough.

Day 4: Nauman to the Perch: We got up at 5:00 and were out by 6:00 and got to hike towards the sunrise towards Washington up the southern Presidentials. This was my favorite part of the hike. It was really clear out and the wind was completely still. I have to imagine this was one in a hundred type of day. On top of Washington when we arrived it was 62 degrees and the wind was blowing 3 mph. Unreal. The afternoon walk over to the Perch was just as spectacular. Views of the Northern Prezis were magnificent. It was a long difficult day but again, doable.

Day 5: Perch to Osgood: Since we made Garfield on the first day we had kind of a buffer day to play with but since the weather was so good every day we really didn't need it. So instead we just relaxed and took it easy. I left my pack with my buddy and summited Mt. Adams and we hung out at Madison hut for a couple hours just eating baked goods and relaxing. The trip up Madison was our first run in with any kind of weather. The clouds had rolled in and coming off the other side all the way to treeline the wind was howling. It was easily blowing 30+ with much higher gusts. It was hard to walk in but since the temps were so mild it didn't even really feel cold.

Day 6: Osgood to Pinkham Notch: The other half of the buffer day allowed us to get to our reservations we had at Joe Dodge Lodge. Again an easy, lazy day. We got the lodge before the only rain of the trip hit so that was good. Food, shower and a bed to sleep on and we were good to go for the rest of the trip.

Day 7: Pinkham to Zeta Pass: We couldn't make it to Imp. It was just too far for us. We stealthed near Zeta with a couple thru hikers, one of whose trail journal I had been following (Airlock) so that was really cool. Again, great weather and the views from Wildcat and Mt. Height were awesome!

Day 8: Zeta Pass to Gorham: Great weather again, and the views were starting to deteriorate as rain was forecast for the evening but we did get some good ones first thing in the morning. At this point we were tired and just ready to get to White Mountain hostel.

So an unbelievable 8 days of hiking in the Whites without getting rained on at all and we got pretty much every single view you could ask for. It could not have worked out any better. It was truly the trip of a lifetime for us. Thanks again for all the advice and help in planning on this thread and the others I posted over the previous few months.

Slo-go'en
06-21-2016, 09:47
Geez. You guys make the Whites out to be a great scary beast of an area. .

Well it is. People "from away" get in trouble up here all the time by overestimating their ability and underestimating the difficulties and hazards.


Yes, camp sights along the ridge lines are often scarce, but they are plentiful off the ridge lines, and even along the ridges, they aren't non-existent, they just require some planning and/or "campsite" flexibility.


Since much of the AT in NH is along ridge lines above tree line, there are no camping allowed. It is both illegal and dangerous to do so. Again, suggesting it is possible to camp along ridge lines along the AT in NH is irresponsible. To camp "off the ridge line" often means losing 1000 or more feet of elevation and going a mile or more out of your way. And if you pick the wrong trail to drop off the ridge line on, you can really get in trouble. And if there isn't a trail leading off the ridge line, it's not possible to do so.


They just aren't as big an issue as many people make them out to be, especially if you walk in prepared with basic knowledge and behave with reasonable common sense.

Unfortunately, many people leave their brains and common sense at home when they travel up here. The number of rescues performed here in a year is proof enough of that.

hikernutcasey
06-21-2016, 09:59
Sorry for the double post but I will add that the two hardest days were day 1 trying to make it across Franconia and over to Garfield campsite and day 4 going from Naumen/Mizpah over the Presidentials to the Perch. If you were considering a hut I would suggest it during these two days. We made it but had perfect weather. It would have been quite the test to make the mileage on either one of those days if the weather was bad. For reference we usually do 16 - 18 mile days most of the time and all of our time in the Whites with the exception of the flat stretch from Zealand to Ethan Pond our mileage was cut to 10 - 12.

PM me if you have any questions and I'll be glad to help any way I can.

hikernutcasey
06-21-2016, 10:06
Well it is. People "from away" get in trouble up here all the time by overestimating their ability and underestimating the difficulties and hazards.



Since much of the AT in NH is along ridge lines above tree line, there are no camping allowed. It is both illegal and dangerous to do so. Again, suggesting it is possible to camp along ridge lines along the AT in NH is irresponsible. To camp "off the ridge line" often means losing 1000 or more feet of elevation and going a mile or more out of your way. And if you pick the wrong trail to drop off the ridge line on, you can really get in trouble. And if there isn't a trail leading off the ridge line, it's not possible to do so.



Unfortunately, many people leave their brains and common sense at home when they travel up here. The number of rescues performed here in a year is proof enough of that.I agree with Slo-go-en. It is irresponsible to tell people the difficulty of the Whites is overblown. Most people have never experienced anything remotely close to what they will face up there and therefore need to be forewarned. Even if the warnings are somewhat excessive and over the top what's the harm? I would rather them be over prepared when they arrive and ready for the worst instead of the alternative of getting in over their heads and winding up in a life or death situation because of the inaccurate advice they received on an internet forum.

Yiddo
06-21-2016, 10:07
Thanks for this trip report, this is exactly what i was looking for!!

rafe
06-21-2016, 10:25
Excellent trip report, Casey. It is possible to skip the huts, if you're fit and plan well, and if the weather cooperates. Those would be long-ish days for me.

Newbs are well advised to heed the warnings and be prepared for some strenuous hiking. Be safe.

Scrum
06-21-2016, 21:02
Most of the responses have been about the AT (which makes sense since this is an AT forum), but the OP seems to be asking a more general question about a week or more of hiking in NH. It is a great opportunity to get off of the beaten path (literally) and check out some of the more remote but beautiful areas in the Whites. Evans Notch and the Cold River Vally have great hiking, camping, and some of the best swimming holes around (fantastic map available from the Chatham Trails Association - http://chathamtrails.org/index.html - send and email to ask how to get it). The mountains are not as high, but the views are great and trails are less crowded - Bald Face Circle is outstanding.

Drop down from Evans Notch into the Wild River Wilderness area, ending up over on the AT near Carter Notch.

Head into the Pemi for a few days.

Try the AMC Mt. Cardigan Lodge, well south of the White mountains.

If you want to stay in a cabin and do day hikes, while having your meals cooked and handing out with a bunch of other hikers (ages 4 to 70) see if the AMC Cold River Camp has space left for a one week stay. http://www.amccoldrivercamp.org/ - a really special place.

Lots of great ways to work in Mt. Washington from directions other than the AT.

Have a blast.

rafe
06-21-2016, 21:08
Hiked a loop over Baldface many years ago and had a blast. Tried it again a couple years back and found the trail horribly neglected and overgrown.

But yeah, there's plenty of hiking in the White Mtns. that isn't the AT. And the best camping opportunities, for sure, are off the AT.

egilbe
06-21-2016, 21:15
Hiked a loop over Baldface many years ago and had a blast. Tried it again a couple years back and found the trail horribly neglected and overgrown.

But yeah, there's plenty of hiking in the White Mtns. that isn't the AT. And the best camping opportunities, for sure, are off the AT.

Baldface Mtn? Or The Baldfaces? The Baldfaces are comparable to Francinia ridge for open summits and ridgewalking. My gf and I hiked it Easter weekend this year and thought the trails were pretty decent, if icy. It was snowing until we got above the clouds and it warmed up in the Sunshine.

Wild River area is beautiful. The Royces make a nice dayhike, but you can string a bunch of trails together to make your own weeklong trip.

rafe
06-21-2016, 21:28
^^ Speaking in general of the trailheads off Rte. 113.

The more recent hike, within the last few years, was up to the summit of Royce, then Basin Rim trail, then Basin Trail down to Wilderness River.

The older hike, I forget which trail we took up, but I know we took Eagle Link down to the Wilderness River that time.

egilbe
06-22-2016, 05:38
I still want to do the Basin Rim trail and Mt Meader trail. Gf and I walked from Basin Pond to the Wild River and that trail is absolutely stunning following that little River down to Wild River campground. Only bad trail I can recall in Evans Notch was laughing Lion. It was pretty badly eroded.

Scrum
07-13-2016, 13:00
I did the Baldface Circle and another hike on the Basin Rim last week. We also hiked Speckled and Blueberry mountains. Swimming at Emerald and Rattlesnake pools at the end of hikes was great. The trails were all in good shape. Very dry - water at the shelter below South Baldface ledges was just a muddy trickle. Blueberries are out! A wonderful trip to Evans Notch!

illabelle
07-13-2016, 15:40
I didnt realize the huts prices were that high. Last time I went through there it was still under a hundred dollars a night. I have never stayed at any of the Huts myself. The food is good though.

We did hut-to-hut from Pinkham to Franconia earlier this month. We learned on an earlier trip that the Whites are much more difficult than anything in our area, so we planned on using the huts as a somewhat gentle way to enjoy the trip. We stayed in 6 huts, plus Joe Dodge Lodge and the Highland Center, and used the AMC shuttle bus twice. With the member discount and the multi-night discount, our bill for two people was just under $1500 before tax. The typical discount hut price was $87.

Del Q
07-13-2016, 18:31
NH kicked my butt, had to come off the AT due to taking 2 bad steps of like 125,000............hyper-extended achilles then twisted my ankle at the top of Wildcat Mountain.

BRUTAL - boulder city, scaling rock walls, my average from GA to I93 is about 13 miles per day, did 10 in NH but it took me all day!!!

Honestly, after I complete the AT I do not ever see voluntarily backpacking North of I93

Maybe head South to Lonesome Lake - much better trail & foot tread there to Hanover.

egilbe
07-13-2016, 18:38
People ive talked to this year tell me the trails are much better once you get north of ME26.

rafe
07-13-2016, 19:03
NH kicked my butt, had to come off the AT due to taking 2 bad steps of like 125,000............hyper-extended achilles then twisted my ankle at the top of Wildcat Mountain.

BRUTAL - boulder city, scaling rock walls, my average from GA to I93 is about 13 miles per day, did 10 in NH but it took me all day!!!

Honestly, after I complete the AT I do not ever see voluntarily backpacking North of I93.

I've always figured 1 mile per hour in the White Mountains.

It was 1 mph as a 25 year old with a 50 lb. pack. It's still 1 mph but now as a 63 year old with a 25 lb. pack.

Maybe a bit more on day hikes with a very light pack.

Avoid the trail north of I-93? Crazy. You'd miss some of the coolest miles on the AT.

Vegan Packer
07-13-2016, 23:50
Mount Kearsarge.
354593546035461