Section Hiking New Hampshire - Advice

[meditatively613]

Hello Everyone,

I am thinking of section hiking the AT through the state of New Hampshire. Does anyone have any advice? Specifically, how long I should expect to take to complete the trip, recommended gear, etc. For reference, my prior experience consists of dozens of day hikes, and several 7-10 day backpacking trips, mostly in the catskill mountains.

[lumberjaime]

A few years before my thru hike, I attempted a section hike of NH with my father. We hiked SOBO, but had to bail out at Franconia Notch due to heat-related illness.

Piece of advice #1: Don't get heat illness!!

But seriously... Looking back on it, I would do that section hike NOBO. None of the state is "easy" hiking, but starting with smaller and gentler peaks like Smarts and Mt Cube will be a better warm-up. Moosilauke will be your first test, but you'll be carrying very little since you'll likely want to go into Woodstock or Lincoln when you get to the bottom (~5 days). Alternatively, you could start with a heavier pack and push to Franconia Notch (~7 days) before resupplying.

From there, give yourself two days each between the Notches: Franconia, Crawford, Pinkham. You can resupply at each (though not cheap or much variety at Crawford) if you need. I'd recommend skipping the resupply at Crawford. When you come off the Presidentials into Pinkham Notch, head to Gorham or the Wal-Mart to the north of town and stock up. It's your last resupply. Finish the hike at Grafton Notch in Maine, much easier to arrange transportation. Depending on your pace and relevant weather conditions, the whole trip should take 14-16 days.

Read up on Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) shelters, huts, and valley services. Keep in mind relevant regulations. Huts are a great place to get out of the heat/bugs/rain/whatever and tank up. Don't worry about carrying lots of water, there are reliable sources (streams, springs, huts) every few miles even in dry times.

If you're the swimmin' type, I highly recommend a 1/2 day side trip down to 13 Falls, just "trail north" of Mt Garfield.

[lumberjaime]

Oh, and another reason I would go NOBO:
For the most part, you'll be encountering the more difficult terrain when you are about to resupply, so your pack will be generally lighter when going up the notoriously steep ****. There are TWO major exceptions to this rule:

1) Climbing Kinsman Notch after resupplying via NH112 (just north of Mt Moosilauke). It's a short climb, but it ****ing hurts. I descended that on my SOBO thru hike, and my knees still ache with the memory. You can avoid this situation by starting with a heavier pack out of Hanover. You could skip NH112, hike Kinsman Ridge as you finish off your food, then resupply when you hit US 3/I-93 in Franconia Notch.

2) Climbing Wildcat Ridge Trail to Wildcat E after resupplying via NH16 (Pinkham Notch). I believe this is a steeper climb than Kinsman Notch. You might not think it possible after climbing Kinsman, but it is. It's fun, but in a masochistic kind of way. You can avoid this situation by resupplying at Crawford Notch with enough provisions for ~4 days. You'll carry more over the Presidentials, but you can skip NH16, carry less weight through Wildcat and Carter peaks, then resupply at US 2.

[rafe]

"Two days between the notches" might be just a bit speedy for most hikers. Certainly can be done if you're fit and traveling light, but speaking personally I'd give it a bit more time. With a full pack, I average one mile an hour up there. The verticals are intense, and there are few switchbacks. Most of these trails predate the AT.

There are traditional shelters and tent platforms in addition to the AMC huts. There's a lot of hiking on bare, rocky, exposed ridges, and in general you won't find shelters or campsites up there. You really need to pay attention to the weather. Aside from the AMC huts, the shelters and campsites are all below treeline.

Get a set of the AMC maps and familiarize yourself with the road crossings, side trails, etc. Most thru-hikers take advantage of Lincoln/Woodstock and/or Gorham. Gorham is an easy hitch from Rte. 2, but by that point you're almost in Maine. Lincoln/Woodstock is a few miles south of where the AT crosses Rte. 93. It is not an easy hitch, however, since there's no trailhead parking lot at that point.

[peakbagger]

There are two New Hampshire ATs, South of Glencliff and north of Glencliff. Might as well be different states. You probably can go fast and light south of Glencliff as its easier terrain. North of Glencliff is a different story. This contrast leads a lot of thru hikers into underestimating the whites as they cruise through the stretch from Hanover to Glencliff and think the rest of NH is the same (it isn't). The best advice north of Glencliff is plan very conservative on mileage. The logical sections are Glencliff to Kinsman Notch, Kinsman to Crawford, Crawford to Pinkham and Pinkham to Shelburne. The Mahoosucs straddle the Maine border so many folks save them for when they do Maine, otherwise you would end up at Grafton Notch in Maine. You can utilize the AMC shuttles between Crawford Notch and Pinkham Notch for shuttles but realize their schedules may not line up with when you want a ride. There are shuttle firms outside this area but expect to pay more and you will need to schedule them in advance. They can be pricey as driving around the mountains is lot farther than hiking across them.

No matter when you go, the whites will be crowded, there are far more thru hikers angling for work for stays at the AMC huts then there are slots. You really don't need to stay in hut and given the cost I expect you may not want to.

If you have hiked in the Adirondacks, you are pretty well prepped for steep trails, the whites tend to be rockier. The big difference is the length of the above treeline sections. For most folks you will have 3 full days where you are above treeline on the highest part of the ridge. Spectacular when its clear but dangerous in bad weather even if you have the right gear. Some days its extremely dangerous to go out on the ridge so you either need to hang out and wait a day or head down to the road and cut the trip short.

[moldy]

Bug advice...Go before blackfly season or after. Weather advice....If caught in bad weather at high altitude in the Whites never bail off the trail to the East always go West. Packweight....go light, 7 to 10 days is not enough time to do the entire state unless you are experienced and fit. Food...don't bring that much, it's available all along the way.

[Hikingjim]

One thing you should clarify:
Do you have 7-10 days again this time, or more? If you have 7-10 days, then you want to knock off some distance

16 days isn't a bad estimate for the whole thing at 10 mpd. That would still be hard work. Longer hike than your normal, hard mileage for most days after the first few days if going NOBO

The challenge and fantastic scenery are very unique

[DavidNH]

By Hiking the At through NH I assume you mean going from Hanover to Gorham yes? Keep in mind that you can get to Hanover via bus and the trail goes right through town and I think you can get a bus or shuttle back from Gorham, NH. Anyway as far as the actual hiking goes:

1) I'd allow for at least two weeks. You may want to have the flexibility to have a couple non hiking days to wait out bad weather (you don't want to go over the Presies in fog and rain if you can help it!).

2) Plan to make a stop at the hostel in Glenn, NH (that's just before you go over Moosilauke).

3) Definitely plan an over night at Joe Dodge of AMC Pinkham Notch camp. The trail goes right by it (literally to the porch of the dining hall) and you can get a bunk, all you can eat breakfast and dinner, and even hot showers! Just plan to make reservations ahead of time... weeks if not a month or more ahead. They also have a small gear store here if you need to replace some equipment.

4) You may also want to plan a stay at the highland center in Crawford Notch (3 or so miles off trail up rt 302). showers here, comfy lodging, great meals, and like in pinkham notch it ain't cheap.

5) I would not count on work for stay at the huts. That is a courtesy reserved for thru hikers and even there they have to arrive late afternoon and simply get to lay out sleeping bag on the tables. Plus the staff wake you up early.. something like 5:30 am.

6) You can not stay anywhere above treeline except at Lakes or Madison Huts.

7) As already mentioned, it will be crowded especially crowded in July or August. And I mean crowded everywhere mostly with day hikers and weekenders.

8) plan to carry fleece, including hat and gloves, and full top and bottom rain gear and solid footware. Yeah people talk till your blue in the face about lightweight hiking yada yada yada. You don't cut corners up here even in August. Those who do will regret it. Remember, if a hut is full, they have no obligation to give you lodging no matter how awful the weather is. So bring warm clothes. Even if the forecast is for 90 degrees in southern NH or in Boston.. bring warm clothes!

[Cookerhiker]

All good advice above. Won't argue with the advice to hike NOBO, but I hiked the highest parts of the Whites (Pinkham to Franconia) SOBO in sections and did fine. I thought ascending the Presidentials from Pinkham was not as difficult as if I had started at Crawford. Also, I would dread descending Moosialuke NOBO if it was rainy or just wet.

No matter when or which direction you go, being aerobically fit will greatly make a difference as to whether you enjoy the hike or suffer.

[peakbagger]

With respect to no camping above treeline, to be legal there are several trails that drop off the ridge that have rough spots in the woods under cover that usually mean loosing 1000 feet of elevation and about 1 mile off trail. Not all trails are like that.

The prior advice of never bailing out to your right is good one, except on very rare occasions from Franconia Notch to RT2 in Shelburne bailing to the right usually gets you into far nasty terrain much farther from any road crossing. The same applies to camping, if in doubt go left and learn the exceptions which are no camping on the Ammonusuc Ravine trail practically all the wall to the bottom. Once you get in the Northern Presidentials the options get worse but going left is generally far better than going right. Realistically once you get to Mt Jefferson, you need to shoot for the RMC facilities as Caps Ridge and the Castle trail both are long exposed ways to anywhere before you could camp.

By the way, AT goes near but not through Gorham NH which is the logical end of you hike as it has bus service to Boston twice a day. If you are running late, you can also pick up the same bus at Pinkham notch. The normal dividing line between NH and Maine AT sections is RT2 in Shelburne. Its about 4 miles on Rt 2 to Gorham. Hitching is usually reasonable. Get a copy of the AMC shuttle schedule to throw in your pack, it winds around the AMC hut system in the whites and is handy if you need to bail early or skip a section. It connects up to a bus in Lincoln NH via transfer in Concord NH that will also get you to Boston. There usually is a way to get to Hanover by bus but it tends to change frequently. There are zero public transportation options between Hanover and Franconia Notch and hitching to civilization will take some luck and a couple of hitches.

[meditatively613]

One thing you should clarify:
Do you have 7-10 days again this time, or more? If you have 7-10 days, then you want to knock off some distance

16 days isn't a bad estimate for the whole thing at 10 mpd. That would still be hard work. Longer hike than your normal, hard mileage for most days after the first few days if going NOBO




There are two New Hampshire ATs, South of Glencliff and north of Glencliff.

I was planning on devoting 2 weeks or so to this trip, but I was wondering if there might be a section that would be worthwhile to cut out to keep trip length/MpD lower. Based on what peakbagger said, I am now thinking of starting at Glencliff and Hiking NOBO to Grafton State Park.


Bug advice...Go before blackfly season or after.

And when is blackfly season?

[rafe]

I was planning on devoting 2 weeks or so to this trip, but I was wondering if there might be a section that would be worthwhile to cut out to keep trip length/MpD lower. Based on what peakbagger said, I am now thinking of starting at Glencliff and Hiking NOBO to Grafton State Park.

Be aware that those extra 30 miles (between NH. Rte. 2 and Grafton Notch) are some of the hardest miles on the entire AT.


And when is blackfly season?

Late spring, early summer.

[egilbe]

Some say they are the funnest

[peakbagger]

Black flies are the worst between mothers day and fathers day, as the black flies mellow out the mosquitoes move in.

[Hikingjim]

ice/snow into black flies/muck into mosquitoes and tstorms!
Can hike during most months, but I love September right after labour day and August would come a close second (Good weather, no bugs, but busier and more storms than Sept)

[rafe]

Some say they are the funnest

In fair weather, though.

[moldy]

If I were you and had 10 days in New Hampster I would hike what I call the 5 stages of Death hike. Day 1 Up and over Moosilaka to Kinsman. Nat too bad of an accent, god awful decent. Sleep North of Kinsman Notch as far as you can make it.(stage 1). Day 2 and 3 stage 2 up and over Wolf and the Kinsmans as far into the Franconia notch as you can get. Rough sledding, very rough except the last couple of miles. Stage 3, day 4 and 5 Franconia..will take your breath away, in good weather this the best section of the entire AT. Make it to Crawford notch. Stage 4, days 6 and 7 up and past "The Big Guy". Attemp to get past Osgood as far as you can, Pinkham would be best, Stage 5 days 9 and 10, 2 or 3 miles past Carters notch the first then out to Gorham the next.

[meditatively613]

This sounds like a good itinerary thanks. I was planning on devoting more than 10 days, so I may keep going past gorham for a bit. Also gotta keep in mind that I can't hike on Saturdays for religious reasons, so that means at least 1-2 zero days that are pre-programmed. Any advice on good locations for those rest days? Preferably somewhere secluded, though I know the trail will be crowded.

[Slo-go'en]

Also gotta keep in mind that I can't hike on Saturdays for religious reasons, so that means at least 1-2 zero days that are pre-programmed. Any advice on good locations for those rest days? Preferably somewhere secluded, though I know the trail will be crowded.

You'll just have to hole up at what ever designated AMC campsite you happen to end up on Friday night. There is no other real option if you can't travel on Saturday. The campsites are quiet during the day when everyone else is out hiking. Now if you could somehow arrange for a ride to Bethlehem (which is in the area, but not real close to the trail for the most part) there is a large orthodox Jewish community there in the summer.

[pkinnetz]

When is black fly season?

[peakbagger]

Mothers day to Fathers day weekend is typically when they are at their worst depends on the winter snow pack. Black flies are trout food and they like cold clear water so they kick in soon after spring run off.

With respect to places to take a day off, the best suggestion is to try to schedule those days down in the valleys in the hardwoods. Even though the trail may be crowded it doesn't take more than about 300 feet between the trail and a spot in the woods where no one will see you. Most folks hike with their heads down not paying anywhere near the attention they should to what is going on to either side of them. Forget finding a quiet official campsite, there are far too many users who are going to be heading to them.

[meditatively613]

Thanks, I figured that primitive camping would be the way to go for a more secluded experience.