Looking for trail suggestions...

[YankeeDude]

Hello all, I'm new to the forum and very happy to have found it.

I plan on visiting the area in the fall with a buddy of mine and I'm trying to decide on which trail(s) to tackle.

We will likely fly into Greenville/Spartanburg on a Wednesday and fly back out on Saturday. This is my current, loosely formed plan:


Wednesday: Fly in, get rental car, drive to the Clingman's Dome Visitior Center and knock out the 1.3 mile out and back trail. Next, drive to the Newfound Pass parking area and start the hike to Charlie's Bunion. We wouldn't have time that first day to complete it, so I figured on sleeping along the trail.


Thursday: Complete whatever remains of the 8.7 miles that we didn't do on Wednesday.


Friday: We would have time for another hike - wide open to ideas. I'm thinking under ten miles, maybe closer to 5. Then drive back to Greenville or maybe Asheville to spend the night.


Saturday: Fly out

I'm wide open to ideas on trails, etc. We're primarily looking for great trails and great views.

Thank you in advance for any responses!

[soumodeler]

Just a reminder that you must have reservations for a specific shelter or campsite for each night in the Smokies. You must make the reservations ahead of time and you are only allowed to be where your reservations are for.

[YankeeDude]

@soumodeler Thank you for that, I wasn't aware. If memory serves me correctly, Virginia, where I've done some hiking, didn't have that stipulation. So, good to know - thank you.

[soumodeler]

This is just for inside the boundaries of Great Smoky Mountains National Park

[illabelle]

YankeeDude,
I'd suggest maybe saving Clingman's Dome and the rest of the Smokies for a later trip after you're more familiar with the AT. The Smokies have a lot of rules that can be tough for a newcomer to navigate. For example "sleeping along the trail" is a no-no in the Smokies.

A couple of places with fantastic views would be Max Patch (just north of the Smokies), and near Roan Mountain (Carver's Gap to Elk Park). You could do both. Carver's Gap to Elk Park is 14.8 miles (http://www.atdist.com). Max Patch is a day hike easily accessible from I-40. If these interest you, let us know, and we'll help you figure it out.

[YankeeDude]

Gotchya, thank you. That definitely sheds new light on everything.

I had also thought about flying into Atlanta and starting the AT at the beginning and just getting as much done as we could.

Again, wide open to ideas.

[YankeeDude]

Thank you, illabelle. You may be right. Most of the hiking I have done in that 'general' area of the country has been further North in Virginia (Grayson Highlands, Mount Rodgers...).

I did come across Max Patch while looking around on All Trails. I'll look into Carver's Gap. I assume these are both outside of the Smokies and less stringent on sleeping along the trail (I wouldn't do that....I would sleep at least a couple hundred feet in)?

[soumodeler]

Yes both of those options are outside GSMNP. You can actually sleep on the summit of Max Patch

[illabelle]

Thank you, illabelle. You may be right. Most of the hiking I have done in that 'general' area of the country has been further North in Virginia (Grayson Highlands, Mount Rodgers...).

I did come across Max Patch while looking around on All Trails. I'll look into Carver's Gap. I assume these are both outside of the Smokies and less stringent on sleeping along the trail (I wouldn't do that....I would sleep at least a couple hundred feet in)?
I should have been more clear. In the Smokies, you can only camp at shelters or designated campsites, both of which require reservations, a permit, and a small fee. But yes, outside the Smokies you can usually camp wherever you want. Both Max Patch and Carver's Gap are on the NC/TN line north of the Smokies. You can explore the trail online with this tool (http://www.appalachiantrail.org/home/explore-the-trail). Lots of other information about the trail on the same site. The other site I linked above "Carver's Gap to Elk Park is 14.8 miles (http://www.atdist.com/)" is a handy tool to calculate distances between shelters, road crossings, etc.

[YankeeDude]

Thank you both very much, I appreciate it!

In the interest of keeping things simple, we'll likely steer clear of anything involving an overnight stay in the Smokies.

So any suggesting in addition to those given are appreciated!

So current criteria are: outside the Smokies, great views and the less people the better. I live and work in the City, so not seeing hoards of people would be great...

[Rain Man]

So current criteria are: outside the Smokies, great views and the less people the better. I live and work in the City, so not seeing hoards of people would be great...

Hike The Foothills Trail in SC.

[YankeeDude]

Hike The Foothills Trail in SC.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Looks like a great trail but we wouldn't be able to complete that in the time we have.

[Uncle Joe]

Why not somewhere further south in NC? You can do a ton of hiking around Standing Indian Campground and the Backcountry Kiosk and make several loops that incorporate the AT. Include Standing Indian Mountain and Albert Mountain and you get you views.

[YankeeDude]

Thanks for the suggestions, Uncle Joe. I'll definitely look into them...that might be a good option.

[HooKooDooKu]

In the interest of keeping things simple, we'll likely steer clear of anything involving an overnight stay in the Smokies.
Don't let the 'rules' of the Smokies scare you. Camping in GSMNP is easy, you're just don't have as many options on where you camp as you do outside of the National Park.

As others have already pointed out, the way GSMNP limits our collective impact on the park is that they only allow you to camp at designated camp sites and they only allow a certain number of people per campsite per night.
The down side is that you must use this website to obtain and pay (https://smokiespermits.nps.gov/index.cfm?BCPermitTypeID=1) ($4/night/person) for camp site reservations. But on the plus side, every designated camp site has bear cables, so keeping your food safe from bears (actually... keeping bears safe from your food) is a no-brainer.

Along your proposed path is Icewater Springs shelter. It's located about 3 miles from New Found Gap and about 1 mile before Charlies Bunion. However, because of its proximity to the road, it is a rather popular site.
You don't say WHEN you're planning this trip. You can book reservations up to a month in advance. At the moment, there are not enough Wed or Thur night spots left if you were to be there on June 14th,15th,28th, or 29th. But there's currently spots open for June 21st, and 22nd, and July 5th and 6th.

The only other major rules you MIGHT need to be aware of is that if you camp at a shelter, you are required to be IN the shelter. You won't be allowed to setup a tent or a hammock at a shelter. You also can not spend two consecutive nights at shelters. Pretty much all the campsites along the AT in GSMNP are shelters, most all other campsites are general back-country sites where you can setup a tent or hammock.

If your primary focus is to just go out and see some views and if the timing is right that you can get a reservation for Icewater Spring shelter, then this is what I would suggest:
Do your proposed hike to Clingman's Dome. Return to Newfound Gap and hike out to Icewater Spring shelter to stay for the night. Next day, head out to Charlies Bunion and then return to your car.
In addition, on either your way IN or your way OUT (which ever you have the better time for) you will pass by The Boulevard Trail on the way to Icewater Springs. Turn down that trial and in less than 1/10th of a mile will be a marker for a small 3/4 mile long side trail that is NOT included on the map. This trail will take you to another view known as 'The Jumpoff'.

If you would like your primary focus to be 'camping' (and you're NOT going this week), then what I would suggest for GSMNP would be to skip Clingman's Dome and instead try Gregory Bald.
There's main options that I think fit with your plans:
1. Drive thru Cades Cove and see the scenery (and the traffic) Cades Cove has to offer. Then head to the end of 'Forge Creek Road' and hike the 2 miles along Gregory Ridge trail to campsite #12. The next day, continue up Gregory Ridge Trail to Gregory Bald Trail and on to campsite #13. Along the way, you will cross over Gregory Bald with great views. While in the afternoon, the bald might have several day hikers. But if you return to the bald at dinner time, you MIGHT have the bald all to yourself (I often simply carry my stove and food up to the bald to make dinner). If you would rather NOT back-track down Gregory Ridge, you can make a loop by continuing down Gregory Bald trail to Parson Branch Road. The road is a one-lane gravel road that is currently closed to vehicle traffic. From Gregory Bald trail head, it is a 3 mile walk along the road back to your car.

[Edited Addition]
Heading out to Charlies Bunion, you will likely not actually go to Charlies Bunion. You will likely take the side trail that leads to a great view to the north short of the Bunion.
The real Bunion lies about a quarter mile past this view. There is a step narrow trail that will take you to the top of the real Bunion, but the view isn't different enough to bother climbing this side trail. However, as you approach the real Bunion, the trees open up with a view to the South that's worth the extra steps to go see.
[Edit End]

2. If you want to avoid the crowds of Cades Cove, drive to Twentymile Ranger Station on the NC side of GSMNP. Hike up Twentymile trail where you can camp the 1st night at either #93 or #92. The 2nd day, climb Long Hungary Ridge to access campsite #13. The final day, follow Wolf Ridge back to the ranger station.

[TNhiker]

Don't let the 'rules' of the Smokies scare you. Camping in GSMNP is easy,




agreed....

i dont know why people make following the rules out to be harder than they actually are.........

its pretty simple to be honest....

[YankeeDude]

Thank you both for the information. I agree about the 'rules'. I'm the new guy here so I'm not going to come on and argue with someone first rattle out of the bag. That being said, I don't want to be tied to a schedule, so for that reason alone, I'm taking GSMNP off the list.

After more consideration, cost of flights, etc., it looks like I may change it 180 degrees and go up to Colorado.

I sincerely appreciate all of the feedback!

[Venchka]

Thank you both for the information. I agree about the 'rules'. I'm the new guy here so I'm not going to come on and argue with someone first rattle out of the bag. That being said, I don't want to be tied to a schedule, so for that reason alone, I'm taking GSMNP off the list.

After more consideration, cost of flights, etc., it looks like I may change it 180 degrees and go up to Colorado.

I sincerely appreciate all of the feedback!

A good choice. I'm heading there later this summer.
Have a great trip.
Wayne


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[YankeeDude]

Thank you, Venchka. The trip, wherever it is, will likely be in September. There are some amazing hikes up there...

[HooKooDooKu]

If you are free to go anywhere, I would think the Grand Canyon would be a great place to go.

While day time temperatures in the inner canyon are still hot, September is beyond the 'danger' months of Jun, Jul, & Aug.
October would seem to be the ideal time to hike in the canyon. Night time lows on the South Rim still average above freezing, while daytime highs at the river average in the 80's.
November would seem like the ideal time if you like cooler temperatures. The South Rim will likely have nighttime lows below freezing, but the inner canyon temperatures seem ideal.
https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/weather-condition.htm

Permits for GCNP (https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry-permit.htm) are a bit different than GSMNP. If you want to hike along the 'Corridor' trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab, North Kaibab), you're limited to three designated campsites.
However, you've already missed the "lottery" for campsites in October. Apply at the end of this month to enter the lottery for campsites in November.
Other trails in GC permit "at large" camping... however the permit process limits the number of people in a given area.

[YankeeDude]

Thanks for the reply, HooKooDooKu. I've been to the Grand Canyon but time kept me from doing much. I'm going to Sedona (and up to GC) in September but again, won't have the time to hike at the GC since it's more of a 'stop along the way' type deal. One of these days, though....! I will do a bunch of hiking around Sedona though.

And yes, I much prefer cooler/cold to warm/hot when hiking.

[Berserker]

Don't let the 'rules' of the Smokies scare you. Camping in GSMNP is easy, you're just don't have as many options on where you camp as you do outside of the National Park.
Totally agree with this statement. The reservations are annoying, but not that big of a deal...certainly not as bad as trying to "win the lottery" to get a permit for the JMT for example.


If your primary focus is to just go out and see some views and if the timing is right that you can get a reservation for Icewater Spring shelter, then this is what I would suggest:
Do your proposed hike to Clingman's Dome. Return to Newfound Gap and hike out to Icewater Spring shelter to stay for the night. Next day, head out to Charlies Bunion and then return to your car.
In addition, on either your way IN or your way OUT (which ever you have the better time for) you will pass by The Boulevard Trail on the way to Icewater Springs. Turn down that trial and in less than 1/10th of a mile will be a marker for a small 3/4 mile long side trail that is NOT included on the map. This trail will take you to another view known as 'The Jumpoff'.
If you do go back to thinking about GSMNP instead of CO or something else, this is a good suggestion. I have done most of the AT and really do not like shelters. As a matter of fact I have stayed in 3 total before the 5 nights I had to stay in shelters in the smokys on a recent trip in almost 1,700 miles on the AT, and have to say that the shelters weren't that big of deal. The area suggested above is one of the most scenic that I have seen along the AT in my travels thus far, so totally worth it.

[YankeeDude]

Good deal, thank you for the response Berserker.

I've posted up my gear list in the Gear section if any of you obviously much more experienced hikers care to take a look and offer your opinions.

Thanks again, all.

[Tennessee Viking]

If you flying into Greeneville/Spartanburg, drive up US 25 toward Asheville.

1) Foothills Trail and connector trails. Caesars has great views.
2) Mountains to Sea Trail. Takes some careful planning as to not camp within the Parkway right of way, but USFS land is legal to camp.
3) Art Loeb Trail.
4) Go past Asheville to AT trailheads. Either Standing Bear Farm, Hot Springs, Sams Gap
5) Go past Asheville to South Mountain SP.

[Venchka]

Thank you, Venchka. The trip, wherever it is, will likely be in September. There are some amazing hikes up there...
I was in the South San Juan and Weminuche Wilderness Areas last September. Perfect conditions.
Holy Cross and Wind River Range this September.
Good luck!
Wayne

[YankeeDude]

Thanks Viking & Venchka!!