View Full Version : how hard is the hiking on Isle Royale really?
i know this is a random shot in the dark but figured it was worth a try.
i'm contemplating a trip to isle royale and several times now i have happened upon admonishments that say things like "experienced backpackers should plan no more than 8-10 miles a day."
to me this means one of two things- the NPS be trippin' or the hiking here is on the level of hiking in the whites.
i suppose the trails could be similarly rugged to the whites, but given the lack of any serious elevation, i still have a tough time taking their advice as something that should be heeded.
i wish the NPS was more consistent about these things. they seem to on one hand make all sorts of hyperbolic warnings of imminent doom for doing some rather innocuous things, while on the other (though less commonly) telling people "yeah sure, take a 25 mile day hike over 2 mountain passes, you can do it! no problem!"
it seems like the deciding factor is the gloom and doom is often done in places where unwitting travellers are present in droves and arguably need to be saved from themselves. (ex- the grand canyon)
applying that concept here, i don't see isle royale as likely to be a place that some hapless soul will decide to venture to and bite off way more than they can chew. so maybe the hiking there is really THAT tough? but i digress...
so is hiking here really that hard? if i plan on doing even 12 or 14 miles in a day i'm going to fall over unable to continue at the 9 or 10 mile mark for some reason? is doing 12 miles here somehow harder than doing say.... franconia notch to galehead in 1 day? or grafton notch south for 10 or so miles? or kinsman notch to franconia notch?
thanks for any insight.
http://switchbackkids.com/three-days-42-miles-backpacking-across-isle-royale-national-park/
I've read reports like the above with mud slowing folks down... also camping is like the smokies where you are staying at set intervals. If the mud is as bad as they say I could see it being tough to hoy 20 mpd to get to next site.
I believe all designated sites are 8 to 10 miles apart.
steve_zavocki
06-15-2017, 10:15
My wife and I hiked across it in 2004. It is comparable the AT in difficulty and I don't mean the Whites, but an avearage section in say Georgia. We did about 15 a day on average. It is rocky like the PA AT in places but not loose rocks. Parts are similar to the ridge walking in Kitteney Ridge in NJ. You should go for it. You will see moose and the biggest island on the biggest lake on the biggest island on the biggest lake in North America. We took the boat from Grand Portage and started in Windigo. We went the long way around the south part of the island and then on the ridge to the Rock Harbor Lodge. From there we took the boat around the island then back to GP.
My wife and I hiked across it in 2004. It is comparable the AT in difficulty and I don't mean the Whites, but an avearage section in say Georgia. We did about 15 a day on average. It is rocky like the PA AT in places but not loose rocks. Parts are similar to the ridge walking in Kitteney Ridge in NJ. You should go for it. You will see moose and the biggest island on the biggest lake on the biggest island on the biggest lake in North America. We took the boat from Grand Portage and started in Windigo. We went the long way around the south part of the island and then on the ridge to the Rock Harbor Lodge. From there we took the boat around the island then back to GP.
awesome, thanks. thats what i was looking for.
definitely going to go for it (well, pending the weather) but just more getting an idea of how far i can go in how many days.
http://switchbackkids.com/three-days-42-miles-backpacking-across-isle-royale-national-park/
I've read reports like the above with mud slowing folks down... also camping is like the smokies where you are staying at set intervals. If the mud is as bad as they say I could see it being tough to hoy 20 mpd to get to next site.
I believe all designated sites are 8 to 10 miles apart.
i am aware of the camping restrictions. the thing about the sites also though is they arent all on a linear trail and im not necessarily planning on just straight line hiking the island end to end, so theres possibly (havent examined it to closely) spots where hopping from trail to trail will get you from shelter A to shelter B in 12 or 13 miles.
I have hiked Isle Royale on several occasions over the past 20 years.
I took the whole family when my youngest was just 9 yo. Even with the 9 yo and many breaks to pick blue berries, we still managed to easily cover 8-10 miles/day.
The Minong Ridge trail, advertised as the "most difficult trail in Michigan" is not so difficult that a motivated hiker cannot cover 12-15 miles and still have plenty of daylight left to spend around camp. I am a middle aged man but have managed several 15+ miles days on Isle Royale.
One couple I met on the ferry from Grand Portage stepped off the ferry at Windigo Tuesday AM with a nothing but a few gallons of water and an itinerary to hike the entirety of the Greenstone Ridge trail and catch the same ferry at Rock Harbor for a Wednesday 9:00 AM departure to return to Grand Portage ( roughly 35 miles in less than 24 hours).
So, no. The hiking on Isle Royale is not hard. Also, Summer days are pretty long on Isle Royale. You could hike by ambient light until nearly 10PM. However, Isle Royale is breathtakingly beautiful. It is common to stop hiking just because you'll want to enjoy 'this one spot" for a while. And you might ask yourself, "Is it more important to cover 2 miles or fill my Smartwater bottle with blue berries?" You'll chose: Hike an additional 4 miles or swim in the clearest water you've ever seen? Hike an additional 6 miles or, lie on a rock and be simultaneously warmed my the sun and chilled by the breeze off Lake Superior.
Keep in mind, you are not bound to the itinerary on Isle Royale. If you plan 10 mile days but, decide you want to hike 20, that is OK.
Good Luck, Enjoy your trip to IRNP
I have hiked Isle Royale on several occasions over the past 20 years.
I took the whole family when my youngest was just 9 yo. Even with the 9 yo and many breaks to pick blue berries, we still managed to easily cover 8-10 miles/day.
The Minong Ridge trail, advertised as the "most difficult trail in Michigan" is not so difficult that a motivated hiker cannot cover 12-15 miles and still have plenty of daylight left to spend around camp. I am a middle aged man but have managed several 15+ miles days on Isle Royale.
One couple I met on the ferry from Grand Portage stepped off the ferry at Windigo Tuesday AM with a nothing but a few gallons of water and an itinerary to hike the entirety of the Greenstone Ridge trail and catch the same ferry at Rock Harbor for a Wednesday 9:00 AM departure to return to Grand Portage ( roughly 35 miles in less than 24 hours).
So, no. The hiking on Isle Royale is not hard. Also, Summer days are pretty long on Isle Royale. You could hike by ambient light until nearly 10PM. However, Isle Royale is breathtakingly beautiful. It is common to stop hiking just because you'll want to enjoy 'this one spot" for a while. And you might ask yourself, "Is it more important to cover 2 miles or fill my Smartwater bottle with blue berries?" You'll chose: Hike an additional 4 miles or swim in the clearest water you've ever seen? Hike an additional 6 miles or, lie on a rock and be simultaneously warmed my the sun and chilled by the breeze off Lake Superior.
Keep in mind, you are not bound to the itinerary on Isle Royale. If you plan 10 mile days but, decide you want to hike 20, that is OK.
Good Luck, Enjoy your trip to IRNP
awesome thanks.
i hear you about stopping and not rushing, and its good to know i'm not bound by a set itinerary (didnt think i was, but wasnt sure).
really just trying to get a sense of what i was potentially getting myself into as far as that ominous sounding NPS warning. especially when it comes time to make it back to the ferry and get off the island at the right time.
mankind117
06-15-2017, 13:42
I've hiked the Minong Ridge trail from McCargo cove to windigo. Back when I did it like 11 years ago, I was not a frequent hiker and found it hard. Now that I hike a lot, looking back the trails were not that hard, at least on the minong ridge (that's all I've done), a bit difficult to follow at times and overgrown but nothing too crazy. If you can hike 10 miles without problem in AT in New Jersey or PA and certainly if you are a comfortable in the whites Isle royal will be a piece of cake.
mankind117
06-15-2017, 13:43
I will also say, if you can go in August or September, that might be a better time. We went in June and the mosquito's were horrid, especially when you were inland.
The NPS regulates for the lowest common denominator.
Wayne
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The NPS regulates for the lowest common denominator.
Wayne
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
in general, perhaps even 80% of the time, thats true. but not universally. if it was, i'd disregard such warnings.
ive been to places, mostly the parks in the rockies, where they are much more encouraging (there is a 25 mile hike with a shuttle back to the start that is encouraged in glacier, for instance, as a dayhike).
and sometimes even in places where a lot of handholding goes on (grand canyon) some of the warnings arent just being overly cautious (nankoweap, from all i've heard and read, for example).
being isle royale isnt a heavily visited park i wouldnt have thought they felt the need to think in terms of saving the ultra foolhardy from themselves, so i figured it was worth checking.
You can definitely do more than 8-10 miles a day. Some up and down but not that much vertical rise/drop at a time. Agree with those who said go later in the season to reduce bugs - but don't leave the headnet at home even in September.
when I did it 40 yrs ago 8-10 a day was good planning, made a nice 5 day trip end to end
when I did it 40 yrs ago 8-10 a day was good planning, made a nice 5 day trip end to end
different strokes my friend...
to me, 8-10 miles if the terrain is not very difficult means a lot of sitting around twiddling thumbs and so forth. if thats your idea of a fun time more power to you. it isnt mine. i go hiking to hike, not sit.
getting more into specific planning and thought i'd toss this idea out there for those whove been to the island-
if one gets off the ferry at rock harbor at 2 or 3 or whenever it lands, heads out at lets say 4pm (and the sun is up until 10! no joke, sunset next week is listed as 9:59pm) having the rest of that day, followed by 4 full days, followed by a short day back into rock harbor to make the 3pm ferry departure, that makes basically 4 full days of hiking and 2 days that are almost, we'll call them 2/3rd days, do you think taking greenstone ridge to windigo and then looping back on minong ridge is possible?
just doing the raw numbers, thats about 80 miles at most in 4 full days plus parts of 2 others. and with the sun being up until 10pm that feels like a no brainer.
and yet, even reading some dedicated isle royale hiking forums, it feels like a lot of people would say that was impossibly hard. i found a thread speculating on weather it was possible to hike the minong ridge in 2 days and the answers are mostly on the order of "well.... i mean, it might be POSSIBLE." its 30 miles of trail. if that cant be done in 2 days it basically means its the mahoosucs. i cant see how that can be, i think maybe theyre all a bunch of wusses.
rocketsocks
06-17-2017, 10:19
I think "Odd Man Out" may have hiked there, hit him up.
I do not recall the trail being especially challenging - less so than say the GA section of the AT - and yeah, I have a hard time hacking short hours/ miles to the point where I do not hike with my younger kids like I did the older ones
IMO - with the expense/ logistics for Isle Royal, 5-6 on island would be the min
plenty of options/ loops to fit daily milage for most
different strokes my friend...
to me, 8-10 miles if the terrain is not very difficult means a lot of sitting around twiddling thumbs and so forth. if thats your idea of a fun time more power to you. it isnt mine. i go hiking to hike, not sit.
oh, and you really missed the point of my post- the NPS is basically giving out 40 yo info
Tdoczi you mentioned other forums that discussed Isle Royale backpacking. Can you share the websites? Isle Royale sounds like a trip I'd like to try.
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I have hiked Isle Royale on several occasions over the past 20 years.
I took the whole family when my youngest was just 9 yo. Even with the 9 yo and many breaks to pick blue berries, we still managed to easily cover 8-10 miles/day.
The Minong Ridge trail, advertised as the "most difficult trail in Michigan" is not so difficult that a motivated hiker cannot cover 12-15 miles and still have plenty of daylight left to spend around camp. I am a middle aged man but have managed several 15+ miles days on Isle Royale.
One couple I met on the ferry from Grand Portage stepped off the ferry at Windigo Tuesday AM with a nothing but a few gallons of water and an itinerary to hike the entirety of the Greenstone Ridge trail and catch the same ferry at Rock Harbor for a Wednesday 9:00 AM departure to return to Grand Portage ( roughly 35 miles in less than 24 hours).
So, no. The hiking on Isle Royale is not hard. Also, Summer days are pretty long on Isle Royale. You could hike by ambient light until nearly 10PM. However, Isle Royale is breathtakingly beautiful. It is common to stop hiking just because you'll want to enjoy 'this one spot" for a while. And you might ask yourself, "Is it more important to cover 2 miles or fill my Smartwater bottle with blue berries?" You'll chose: Hike an additional 4 miles or swim in the clearest water you've ever seen? Hike an additional 6 miles or, lie on a rock and be simultaneously warmed my the sun and chilled by the breeze off Lake Superior.
Keep in mind, you are not bound to the itinerary on Isle Royale. If you plan 10 mile days but, decide you want to hike 20, that is OK.
Good Luck, Enjoy your trip to IRNP
I'd rate the Minong Ridge Tr as one of the harder trails on IRNP with its rocky ascents and some scrambling but it's not steep or necessarily as long as say climbing to the top of Blood Mt in GA on the AT. Tdoczi, you can probably find write ups in various internet places including the NPS IRNP site on individual trail difficulty. There are no huge or incredibly steep ascent/descents though. I find the Greenstone Ridge, Feldtmann Ridge, and from Rock Harbor past Daisy Farm CS(crowded, sometimes mucky, often buggy in summer) to Lake LeSage or Richie to be very tame trails. Getting up to the Greenstone Ridge from this latter trail is relatively short and not that hard considering, I'm guesstimating, the greatest ascent is like 250 ft on any one trail.
Agree that CS's are spaced nicely apart for various itineraries.
As far as mosquitos several sites are more notorious for the vampires BUT Tdoczi HERE THIS, there are screened in elevated roofed individual party shelters available at SOME CS areas that you could avail yourself. Also, IF going during skeeter, gnat, and fly high season some of the CS's on the coast may very well offer a nice breeze cutting down on the aerial attacks.
The CS's near Rock Harbor and Windigo get the most use.
With the ferries making several stops to pick up and discharge people AND kayaks/canoes BEYOND Rock Harbor and just Windigo including some paddling prearranging some rentals is a GREAT way to mix it up on an IRNP hike and paddling excursion! Three NP's in the lower 48 that IMO one should definitely consider throwi ng some paddling into the backpacking mix are: Channel Islands, Everglades, and Isle Royale. It truly brings another dimension to experiencing these NP's!
Odd Man Out
06-27-2017, 21:35
I think "Odd Man Out" may have hiked there, hit him up.
I was there about 33 years ago but that was before backpacking days. We (newlywed wife and I) stayed at one of the cabins and day hiked. We canoed across Tobin harbor and up hiked up to the overlooked on the ridge. That was great. Would love to get back for some real hiking. I doubt it is as difficult as the official advice suggests. The trails and campgrounds in the central part of the island form a network so many loops can be planed. Down south there are long linear trails. There are also a number dead end trails that offer isolated campgrounds on out and back hikes. I did backpack pictured rocks a couple of years ago. There is nothing quite like Lake Superior.
Odd Man Out
06-27-2017, 21:55
...With the ferries making several stops to pick up and discharge people AND kayaks/canoes BEYOND Rock Harbor and just Windigo including some paddling prearranging some rentals is a GREAT way to mix it up on an IRNP hike and paddling excursion! Three NP's in the lower 48 that IMO one should definitely consider throwi ng some paddling into the backpacking mix are: Channel Islands, Everglades, and Isle Royale. It truly brings another dimension to experiencing these NP's!
We rented the canoe for a date trip on Tobin Harbor. Had loons and moose swim by. In the middle I had one of my most memorable outdoor experiences. We stopped paddling just to enjoy the view. It was dead calm and no clouds. I looked over the edge an I could see down to the bottom where there are giant water logged trees on the bottom. It is very deep, but the water was so clear it was like there was no water and I suddenly had the feeling I was floating in air 100 feet above the ground. I panicked at the feeling I was about to plunge to my death. I grabbed the sides of the canoe to brace myself. The disturbance in the water destroyed the illusion and I was "saved". On the other side we hiked to the overlook where you can see the NW sode. The canoeing there would be amazing with many coves and islands. The sky was light blue. The lake was dark blue, the islands we bright green, and in the middle was a couple in this bright canary yellow canoe. So cool. The other great place for longer canoe trips is the middle of the island where a chain of inland lakes are connected by portages. However, don't plan on canoeing on large unprotected stretches of the big lake.
We rented the canoe for a date trip on Tobin Harbor. Had loons and moose swim by. In the middle I had one of my most memorable outdoor experiences. We stopped paddling just to enjoy the view. It was dead calm and no clouds. I looked over the edge an I could see down to the bottom where there are giant water logged trees on the bottom. It is very deep, but the water was so clear it was like there was no water and I suddenly had the feeling I was floating in air 100 feet above the ground. I panicked at the feeling I was about to plunge to my death. I grabbed the sides of the canoe to brace myself. The disturbance in the water destroyed the illusion and I was "saved". On the other side we hiked to the overlook where you can see the NW sode. The canoeing there would be amazing with many coves and islands. The sky was light blue. The lake was dark blue, the islands we bright green, and in the middle was a couple in this bright canary yellow canoe. So cool. The other great place for longer canoe trips is the middle of the island where a chain of inland lakes are connected by portages. However, don't plan on canoeing on large unprotected stretches of the big lake.
That's a pretty cool description of your experiences. WOW. Also a BIG WOW since you're one of the few on WB that have shared mixing in a IRNP paddling experience to the hike. Very nice.
If you head out to Lookout Louise, Mt Franklin, or paddle out to one of the paddle in only CS's like Amydgloid, Belle Isle, Birch etc or even station your party at Todd Harbor*for a day with canoe or kayaks having one of the ferries pick them up for you and experiencing the rest of the journey on foot I find the IRNP experience to be so much more. Of course weather has to be considered while planning an itineary
Sure beat hanging around the ports with all the day tourons.
chiefiepoo
06-27-2017, 22:51
Three trips to Isle Royale since 2010. None of it is hard, nowhere near as difficult as the GA mountains. Because of the glacial weight on the land form, getting up to the ridge is a series of sawtooth climbs. Up 200" , down 100'. Up another 200" down 50'.So you get tired of gaining altitude and then giving it back. In between the folds of the ascending ridges, you'll find bogs and small lakes whose water sources are not attractive. the most difficult part of walking the high ridges is lack of water sources. My last trip in August 2014 was hot and dry. Temps in the mid 90"s. I'm a Floridian and accustomed to hight heat and humidity but 3 L of water did not last long. Age may be my weakness but hiking on the ridge with no shade is hard.
I think part of the confusion is that the term "experienced backpacker" is rather ambiguous. I am 57, started backpacking four years ago, and have completed many overnights and about a half dozen multiday trips, longest being 5 nights. I suspect the NPS would say I am an "experienced backpacker", while in the OP's world, I would be in the category of "noob". I walked from Rock Harbor to Windigo June 3-9, 2017, averaging about 11-12 miles per day. Could I have gone farther? Certainly; I finished each day by mid-afternoon, and was not exhausted. My lungs could have done more, but by mid-afternoon, my feet told me it was time to call it a day. Not really blisters, just sore. Someone who's feet are used to long-distance hiking, with long days, on strenuous, rocky trails will have no problem with 15+ miles per day on Isle Royale. I think the NPS suggestion is for people who look at the topo map, and think "it's the Midwest; must be a piece of cake".
Re the heat on the ridge tops: I too was surprised how hot it could feel, even with 70's temps, with the sun reflecting off the rocks. My one suggestion is take more water than you think you will need.
wow, funnily enough this thread really took off while i was out doing the hiking!
i'm back, great trip overall, enjoyed the island in general very much, had amazing weather.
but the minong ridge trail.... blech. isle royale i'll go back to. that trail though? no thank you. and not cause it was hard, i banged it out in a day and a half as planned. and no, please dont tell me moving that "fast" is why i didnt like it. especially since you pretty much have to do N desor to windigo in one haul no matter what.
i dont have the time to go through everything posted since i left nor give a really full rundown on the trip, but i looped from RH to windigo using all of minong, most of the part of the greenstone that is between those 2 places, all of rock harbor, all of tobin harbor, and parts or all of the trails necessary to connect them up.
it was mostly easy hiking with brief (VERY BRIEF, like 5 minutes brief) hard spots that were very spaced out.
Tdoczi you mentioned other forums that discussed Isle Royale backpacking. Can you share the websites? Isle Royale sounds like a trip I'd like to try.
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isleroyaleforums.com
its not as busy a place as this is but i through up my same OP question there and got a useful handful of replies to it.
oh, and you really missed the point of my post- the NPS is basically giving out 40 yo info
ahh lol gotcha. sorry for the misread.
they do seem big on trying to warn people off there. has people getting lost or otherwise into trouble there really ever been an issue?
seems most of the people there just stay within a few miles of RH and windigo (or theyre boat people) and the only people who venture further are the ones who really know what theyre doing.
I think part of the confusion is that the term "experienced backpacker" is rather ambiguous. I am 57, started backpacking four years ago, and have completed many overnights and about a half dozen multiday trips, longest being 5 nights. I suspect the NPS would say I am an "experienced backpacker", while in the OP's world, I would be in the category of "noob". I walked from Rock Harbor to Windigo June 3-9, 2017, averaging about 11-12 miles per day. Could I have gone farther? Certainly; I finished each day by mid-afternoon, and was not exhausted. My lungs could have done more, but by mid-afternoon, my feet told me it was time to call it a day. Not really blisters, just sore. Someone who's feet are used to long-distance hiking, with long days, on strenuous, rocky trails will have no problem with 15+ miles per day on Isle Royale. I think the NPS suggestion is for people who look at the topo map, and think "it's the Midwest; must be a piece of cake".
Re the heat on the ridge tops: I too was surprised how hot it could feel, even with 70's temps, with the sun reflecting off the rocks. My one suggestion is take more water than you think you will need.
i dont think i'm THAT much more experienced than you are. i'd say maybe twice or three times as much experience, but in a 2x2 is 4 sort of way, not a 1000x2 is 2000 sort of way.
i think the issue is more about preference/physical capabilities and maybe the problem is the NPS thinking all "experienced backpackers" are the same.
Odd Man Out
06-28-2017, 14:01
Sure beat hanging around the ports with all the day tourons.
Can be entertaining though. We were at the dock at Rock Harbor. There were a flock of ducks at the water edge being stalked by a fox on the bushes. Just then a large group came out of the dining hall and walked town the path to the dock. Just as the crowd was between the fox and the ducks, the fox pounced, through the legs of the people going for the ducks. The people screamed and scattered thinking they were under attack. The ducks squawked and took took the air and the poor fox looked bewildered and come away empty handed, all while we watched from maybe just 10 yards away. It was a great show.
Hikingjim
06-28-2017, 15:13
Almost all short trails (less than ~70 miles) in Canada I've done advertise ridiculously low mileage estimates
"this rugged trail will take you 7-10 days!!". Sure, if you hike 2-4 hours a day then sit around the fire for 10 hours and burn all the wood in the forest
Odd Man Out
06-28-2017, 15:20
Almost all short trails (less than ~70 miles) in Canada I've done advertise ridiculously low mileage estimates
"this rugged trail will take you 7-10 days!!". Sure, if you hike 2-4 hours a day then sit around the fire for 10 hours and burn all the wood in the forest
Yes, I was looking at the shoreline trail 9n Lake Superior PP and their description was along those lines.
Yes, I was looking at the shoreline trail 9n Lake Superior PP and their description was along those lines.
Recently looking at the same trail. Sounds interesting.
Hikingjim
06-28-2017, 20:34
Yes, I was looking at the shoreline trail 9n Lake Superior PP and their description was along those lines.
Are you talking about the coastal trail?
I have done that one and combined it with the pukaskwa coastal hiking trail which is a couple hours away from that
Typically went about 12-15 mpd on those, which is less than when I'm on moderate AT sections. But was enjoying the scenery and there are sections where you go a bit slower with rocks, etc, but definitely not crazy hard!
Not huge elevation, but enough crap to get in the way and great scenery to relax at. The loop at killarney provincial park is the 3rd nice hike in that region, although it's a bit far from the others. Elevation adds up a bit more there, and often pretty steep
I pass a lot of hikers that go on one trip a year and have 50 lb packs for the "8 day trek". they are typically having a blast regardless!
Odd Man Out
06-29-2017, 12:46
Are you talking about the coastal trail?
I have done that one and combined it with the pukaskwa coastal hiking trail which is a couple hours away from that
Typically went about 12-15 mpd on those, which is less than when I'm on moderate AT sections. But was enjoying the scenery and there are sections where you go a bit slower with rocks, etc, but definitely not crazy hard!
Not huge elevation, but enough crap to get in the way and great scenery to relax at. The loop at killarney provincial park is the 3rd nice hike in that region, although it's a bit far from the others. Elevation adds up a bit more there, and often pretty steep
I pass a lot of hikers that go on one trip a year and have 50 lb packs for the "8 day trek". they are typically having a blast regardless!
Yes, I've looked at both of those. Closer than IRNP for me. I was at Lake Superior PP a few years ago, but just on a day trip while car camping down at Pancake Bay. Didn't get further north than that. Definitely want to go back.