View Full Version : 18 Days in the Jacks River Furnace
Tipi Walter
08-04-2017, 09:24
I sort of planned not to go out backpacking in July during the summer heat but then I got the itch and Miss Nature called my name. So I loaded up my pack and got shuttled to Thunder Rock campground on the Ocoee River in TN and took the Benton MacKaye trail south thru the Big Frog wilderness and down into the Cohutta wilderness of Georgia. It was hot, boys.
To see all trip pics go here---
https://tipiwalter.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/
TRIP 184
July 14-31, 2017
HIGHLIGHTS
** TRAILWORKING WEST FORK 303 TRAIL
** TRAILWORKING ROUGH CREEK TRAIL #70
** 3 BACKPACKERS WITH STUFFED DAYPACKS COMING OFF THE FROG
** 67TH BIRTHDAY ON FROG MOUNTAIN
** RATTLESNAKE ON HEMP TOP TRAIL
** 8 CREEK SWIMS
** 5 DAYS ON JACKS RIVER
** 49 JACKS RIVER CROSSINGS
** JOURNEY UP AND DOWN THE JACKS
** BLUE BLAZE TO JACKS RIVER FALLS
** DAYS 8-9-10 MY HOTTEST MOST MISERABLE DAYS
** BLACK BEAR IN THE WILDERNESS
** DAY 15 RAIN AFTER 14 DAYS OF DROUGHT
** BACKPACKING GRASSY GAP TRAIL TWICE
TRAILS
Entrance at Thunder Rock Campground
BMT South (305/330/303 West Fork)
**West Fork Camp**
West Fork 303 Trail
Rough Creek 70 Trail
**Frog Pond**
Big Frog Trail 64
**Low Gap**
Big Frog Trail 64
**Big Frog Mt Camp 2**
BMT South Hemp Top Trail
Peniteniary Trail
Jacks River
**Jacks Penal Camp**
Jacks River 18 Crossings Upstream
**Bear Creek Camp**
Jacks River 2 Crossings Downstream
**Tarp Camp**
Jacks River 16 Crossings Downstream
**Jacks Penal One Crossing Up Camp**
Jacks River Sidetrip to Jacks River Falls
Beech Bottom Trail
**Beech Creek Camp**
Beech Bottom Trail
FS Road 62
Chestnut Mt Trail
**Nut Jct Camp**
Wolf Ridge
Frog Mt/Big Frog Trail
**Frog Tongue Camp**(2)
Big Frog Trail
Fork Ridge
Rough Creek Middle 70
**West Fork Crossing 3 Camp**
Rough Creek Trail 70 Going West
Big Frog Trail
**Low Gap**
Grassy Gap Trail Southwest
Wolf Ridge Up
**Curbow High Camp**
Wolf Ridge Down
Grassy Gap Trail Northeast
Low Gap
Big Frog Trail
**Frog Pond Camp**
Rough Creek Trail 70
West Fork 303 Trail
**West Fork Camp**
BMT North (303/330/305) and OUT
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-ssbhLJM/0/260082d2/XL/Trip%20184%20%2821%29-XL.jpg
My trip starts at this bulletin board in Thunder Rock campground where the BMT passes thru on a steep climb away from Ocoee River on a series of switchbacks.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-27XrKz4/0/f87b0314/XL/Trip%20184%20%2822%29-XL.jpg
Here is the trailhead for the BMT leaving the campground. This is low ground right next to Ocoee River (and the loud blasted Highway 64) and I usually see copperheads in this section.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-tg6xQkz/0/573a4c55/XL/Trip%20184%20%2835%29-XL.jpg
Here is Uncle Fungus making his way into the Big Frog wilderness on the BMT heading south from Ocoee River. It's hot, the bugs are bad but I have an 80 lb pack with enough food and fuel and books to get me thru 18 days w/o interruption.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-GMrVTJC/0/baf7748b/XL/Trip%20184%20%2848%29-XL.jpg
I enter Frog wilderness and get to cross Rough Creek twice before leaving the BMT and taking Trail 70 west to the Frog Pond and the Big Frog Mt trail jct.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-TcnTCWc/0/985de161/XL/Trip%20184%20%2890%29-XL.jpg
By Day 4 I'm on top of Frog Mt and I set up camp to celebrate my 67th birthday. Yippee, back on the mighty Amphibian! There are only two ways to hike into Georgia and the Cohutta from Thunder Rock---go up and over the Frog to Hemp Top trail---or get on Grassy Gap trail and use Wolf Ridge to Chestnut Mt and a 2 mile roadwalk to Beech Bottom trail down to Jacks River. The second way is how I return to Frog Mt later in the trip.
Tipi Walter
08-04-2017, 09:38
40012
For some reason this pic won't load in full screen---But anyway, the top spring on Frog Mt (called Elderberry Spring) is dry so I bushwack down to my "secret" spring and get all-important water. I call it Dingleberry Spring.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-nnRrwgk/0/f910c8b5/XL/Trip%20184%20%28129%29-XL.jpg
After I leave Big Frog mountain I descend hard to Double Spring Gap (thousand foot drop in 1 mile) and pass over Hemp Top Mt and run into my buddy Cohut Johnny sunning himself in the trail and we talk. He's excited to see me but wonders about the refrigerator strapped to my back.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-dKbdHTx/0/11575d9b/XL/Trip%20184%20%28136%29-XL.jpg
After hanging out with Johnny for awhile, I keep hiking and reach Penitentiary trail which in 4+ miles takes me down to Jacks River, the goal of my trip. It's a long hot slog.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-bNKs3MB/0/d88a9ba6/XL/Trip%20184%20%28150%29-XL.jpg
I finally make it down to Jacks River and set up camp right next to this crossing so in the morning I head up-river and pull 18 crossings.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-ScqHpcD/0/5ec4f280/XL/Trip%20184%20%28159%29-XL.jpg
Since I have to pull dozens of Jacks crossings (a total of 49), I whittle up a second hiking pole for easier fords. This pic shows some old blaze paint on a tree on the Jacks trail.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-ssCZ377/0/d871592e/XL/Trip%20184%20%28210%29-XL.jpg
One section of the Jacks goes thru this mini gorge so I set up camp nearby and go swimming.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-CH6DVKr/0/f1937563/XL/Trip%20184%20%28218%29-XL.jpg
On Day 6 of the trip I pull 18 crossings of the Jacks up to Dally Gap. On Day 7 I backtrack and pull two crossings down and camp. And so here I am on Day 8 preparing to pull 16 crossings back down the Jacks and visit Jacks River Falls.
Tipi Walter
08-04-2017, 09:48
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-kL973Lp/0/2ced0cb8/XL/Trip%20184%20%28225%29-XL.jpg
Here's a pretty view of the Jacks as I head downstream to the Falls.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-53zcRph/0/c90b6786/XL/Trip%20184%20%28262%29-XL.jpg
I see a few backpackers on the trek and catch these two crossing the Jacks near my campsite.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-ftCzmHW/0/1f2fb39f/XL/Trip%20184%20%28291%29-XL.jpg
After 6 days on the Jacks I decide it's time to return to the Frog but first I make a side trip to Jacks River Falls and watch the activity. The Falls is a giant tourist attraction and is best avoided if you like solitude---plus hikers tend to squirt out turds everywhere like on the trail and don't bother to dig catholes.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-dChMkgB/0/b8de208c/XL/Trip%20184%20%28300%29-XL.jpg
More kids wanting to jump off the Falls rock.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-QXGhPHt/0/53eee1ba/XL/Trip%20184%20%28322%29-XL.jpg
I finally leave the Falls clustermuck and take the Beech Bottom trail 4+ miles out of the wilderness to tie back into the Frog. This is the Beech Bottom trailhead.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-gPVwg9P/0/dd689c17/XL/Trip%20184%20%28378%29-XL.jpg
As I make my way back into the Frog I dump the pack and take a break and get to meet my new friend Jimmy who casually hikes up the trail. This was during the hottest part of the trip and we're both dragging bad.
Tipi Walter
08-04-2017, 09:55
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-dPWxQJ4/0/57bcf3a0/XL/Trip%20184%20%28396%29-XL.jpg
I finally make it into the Frog and set up camp here in Low Gap and after 14 days without rain it finally rains on Day 15.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-wSjXWCh/0/2c58f39b/XL/Trip%20184%20%28409%29-XL.jpg
On Day 15 I leave Low Gap in an all-day rainstorm and take Grassy Gap trail 5 miles to this spot where I stop for a break. I get soaked but when you're in a July furnace getting soaked is wonderful.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-DZm96vJ/0/c27976af/XL/Trip%20184%20%28411%29-XL.jpg
Here are the trailsigns in Grassy Gap. I take Wolf Ridge up the mountain for a couple miles and set up camp in the rain.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-SgdMT6z/0/9f32a19c/XL/Trip%20184%20%28469%29-XL.jpg
On Day 16 I leave a high camp on Wolf Ridge and backtrack the Grassy Gap trail 5 miles and reach Low Gap and return to the BMT on Rough Creek and by Day 18 I'm ready to return to Thunder Truck campground and meet my ride out.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-J3r627M/0/9ad8ebae/XL/Trip%20184%20%28480%29-XL.jpg
And so on Day 18 I reach my exit point at the campground where all this madness started. This was perhaps my hardest trip in years because of the constant 90-95F temps, the humidity, and the hateful bugs. But I made it.
Time Zone
08-04-2017, 11:01
By Day 4 I'm on top of Frog Mt and I set up camp to celebrate my 67th birthday.
Happy belated birthday! You rock.
Ashepabst
08-04-2017, 11:40
happy birthday! I've camped near that gnarly tree on Wolf Ridge where there's a nice overlook. I actually got a phone call from the wife at that campsite which scared the snot out of me... usually have it airplane mode in the backcountry. On that same trip I came in from near the Ocoee and hooked up to Grassy Gap Tr to Wolf Ridge. Grassy Gap was so overgrown it was almost intolerable.
Tipi Walter
08-04-2017, 12:03
Happy belated birthday! You rock.
Happy Birthday Tipi!!!!
Thanks!
happy birthday! I've camped near that gnarly tree on Wolf Ridge where there's a nice overlook. I actually got a phone call from the wife at that campsite which scared the snot out of me... usually have it airplane mode in the backcountry. On that same trip I came in from near the Ocoee and hooked up to Grassy Gap Tr to Wolf Ridge. Grassy Gap was so overgrown it was almost intolerable.
I spent considerable time on this trip clearing Grassy Gap---cutting blowdowns with my folding saw---and it's in great shape and probably the most remote and rugged trail in the Big Frog---although for tent campers it only has a couple campsites---one near the beginning out of Low Gap and one below the Penitentiary Creek crossing (the Penitentiary trail in the Frog and not to be confused with the Penal in the Cohut). Of course as you say it has a campsite at its end on Wolf Ridge (Grassy Gap) and one at its beginning in Low Gap.
Here's a pretty tree on the Grassy Gap trail---
https://photos.smugmug.com/Backpack-2017-Trips-79/18-Days-in-the-Jacks-River-Furnace/i-cjWXVNX/0/7723fc93/XL/Trip%20184%20%28437%29-XL.jpg
TwoSpirits
08-04-2017, 16:36
I always get excited when I see that you've posted a trip report. I really enjoy seeing and hearing about these different trails, and your photos of Jimmy and Johnny are always great. But one of the best things I've learned from your posts is how to keep the notes brief & simple (bullet points) that I can expand on later. Using what I call "Tipi Notes" has really helped me to keep a better travel journal. So thanks for that...and happy birthday!
Tipi Walter
08-05-2017, 10:46
I always get excited when I see that you've posted a trip report. I really enjoy seeing and hearing about these different trails, and your photos of Jimmy and Johnny are always great. But one of the best things I've learned from your posts is how to keep the notes brief & simple (bullet points) that I can expand on later. Using what I call "Tipi Notes" has really helped me to keep a better travel journal. So thanks for that...and happy birthday!
Thanks for the input. Keeping an exhaustive trip report gives me something to do during a long trip---although much of it is the minutiae of trails hiked and map info and routes planned---Boring except for those who want to repeat the experience in the same exact area.
18 days AND trail work? No wonder you haul supersized packs. Now I know why, although I still don't know HOW.
Tipi Walter
08-05-2017, 17:02
The HOW is simple---pull short mile days.
Thanks for sharing and happy late birthday.
Happy birthday, Walter!
Your reports are absolutely great and very inspiring.
Rain Man
08-06-2017, 09:59
Another great trip report, Tipi! Thanks for sharing.
Also, Happy Birthday, Old Man! You're way older than I am! By almost a year. LOL
BTW, Vermont was far cooler in July. ;)
double d
08-08-2017, 08:03
Once again Tipi-another great trip report-love the Bear and Rattler pictures as well!!!
Tipi Walter
08-08-2017, 10:30
Thanks for sharing and happy late birthday.
Happy birthday, Walter!
Your reports are absolutely great and very inspiring.
Thanks.
Another great trip report, Tipi! Thanks for sharing.
Also, Happy Birthday, Old Man! You're way older than I am! By almost a year. LOL
BTW, Vermont was far cooler in July. ;)
We're getting old. If these Southeast heatwaves keep coming I may have to move to Vermont.
Once again Tipi-another great trip report-love the Bear and Rattler pictures as well!!!
I rarely see a bear who gives me enough time to pull out the camera---luckily I was sitting and resting against my pack when Big Jimmy hiked up the trail to me.
saltysack
08-09-2017, 08:32
Looks like another great trip! I bet it was hot inside that "Bomb Shelter"[emoji38]. Curious what the note said on the tree next to the derelict camp site? I just can't get excited to hike in the summer heat....damn I can't wait for fall/winter! Awesome pics thx for sharing...
PS got the exact same patagoochie capeline T...comfy but can't get the hiker stink out! My wife keeps trying to throw it away...[emoji51]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tipi Walter
08-09-2017, 09:47
Looks like another great trip! I bet it was hot inside that "Bomb Shelter"[emoji38]. Curious what the note said on the tree next to the derelict camp site? I just can't get excited to hike in the summer heat....damn I can't wait for fall/winter! Awesome pics thx for sharing...
PS got the exact same patagoochie capeline T...comfy but can't get the hiker stink out! My wife keeps trying to throw it away...[emoji51]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The note on the tree was actually a roll of toilet paper in a ziploc pinned to the tree. And yes, camping in the July heatwave sukked!! Luckily I can open up both doors on my bomb tent and turn it into a Tarp which greatly increases ventilation.
I stumbled on some remarkable t-shirts last year and I'm real particular about backpacking Tees. Not patagoochia but North Face! Called Reaxion---
https://images.thenorthface.com/is/image/TheNorthFace/A9HS_W8B_hero?$60x70$
https://www.thenorthface.com/shop/mens-short-sleeve-reaxion-amp-crew
They are light and COOL---as many poly tees are hot. I liked them so much I got 5 in yellow and red and blue and green etc.