View Full Version : Hiking the smokies with Crosby shelter closed
speedbump
09-15-2017, 19:34
It seems that in order to hike the Smokies, I will have to do 15.7 and 14.3 days. One of the key shelters is closed for bear activity. My question is this, is that doable ? How is the terrain? I am used to hiking the Whites in NH where a 15 mile day is really hard, but I have hiked in VA where 15 miles is doable.
How does the Smokies compare to VA or NH ?
illabelle
09-15-2017, 19:47
The Smokies are nothing like the Whites, not even close. There's a big climb at each end, but the rest of it is a ridge walk with relatively gentle ups and downs. If 15 in the Whites is hard but doable, 15 in the Smokies will be moderate.
By the way, before you commit to this hike, check with the Park to learn how well the trail has been cleared of blowdowns from Irma. Might not be too bad if your trip isn't immediate.
speedbump
09-15-2017, 19:59
Thank you !
The Smokies are nothing like the Whites, not even close. There's a big climb at each end, but the rest of it is a ridge walk with relatively gentle ups and downs. If 15 in the Whites is hard but doable, 15 in the Smokies will be moderate.
By the way, before you commit to this hike, check with the Park to learn how well the trail has been cleared of blowdowns from Irma. Might not be too bad if your trip isn't immediate.
MuddyWaters
09-15-2017, 20:18
It seems that in order to hike the Smokies, I will have to do 15.7 and 14.3 days. One of the key shelters is closed for bear activity. My question is this, is that doable ? How is the terrain? I am used to hiking the Whites in NH where a 15 mile day is really hard, but I have hiked in VA where 15 miles is doable.
How does the Smokies compare to VA or NH ?
Well, that depends on you.
Most thru hikers or people in good shape will do 4-5 days. lesser shape people with heavy loads will do 7 days.
Your limited by the shelter spacing of course. I recall longest day being 18 miles.
We did:
fontana-mollies ( We was at mollies at 2pm, after lunch break. Easily could go to Russel field.)
mollies-silers bald (probably best to stop at Derricks Knob and not push it)
silers-icewater
icewater-tricorner
tricorner-out the park
I would call it relaxed schedule. The 18 mile day mollies to silers was actually kind of tough.
The hardest part of the park is NOT the climbs, dont be fooled, they are well graded and easy. Its the rocky up-down between thunderhead and Derricks Knob. In either direction its tiring. Continueing to Silers late in the day after a break at Derricks...was actually pretty rough for me. I was probably dehydrated, etc but still, it stands out in my memory.
HooKooDooKu
09-15-2017, 22:20
Here's a really good elevation profile of the AT thru GSMNP (https://tnlandforms.us/at/gsmnpat.html)
Just keep walking. It never bothered me if a shelter was closed, filled to capacity, etc. You'll find a place to rest your head eventually.
15 miles in the whites is tough for me but doable. approx 20 per day through the smokies was only slightly harder than 20 miles a day anywhere else.
i did fontana to spence field, to mt collins (hardest day but mostly due to weather) to tri corner to standing bear.
Berserker
09-19-2017, 11:30
Yep, already said multiple times, but 15 in the Smokys is very easy if comparing it to 15 in the Whites. I actually did the Smokys this year in May in ok shape and had no issue with 11 - 13 mile days. Then I just got back from finishing the Whites (Crawford to Pinkham) and doing the first 60 miles of ME a few weeks ago, and in much better shape 10 miles per day up there about killed me.
Alligator
09-19-2017, 11:51
Have you considered off the AT to adjust your trip? Do you have a specific number of days you have to fit the trip in? If you post your planned route, we might be able to suggest variations.
HooKooDooKu
09-19-2017, 12:30
Have you considered off the AT to adjust your trip? Do you have a specific number of days you have to fit the trip in? If you post your planned route, we might be able to suggest variations.
Which brings up the question of permits...
If you are hiking GSMNP on a Thru hiker permit, you have to start and end your hike 50 outside of GSMNP, and you're limited to camping at the campsite/shelters along the AT.
If you are NOT starting and ending 50 miles outside of GSMNP, then you'll need a General Backpacking permit where you must obtain a reservation for each specific date you plan to be at each campsite. But this also opens you to several alternatives.
Perhaps the most interesting alternative that comes to mind the still preserves MOST of the AT thru GSMNP would be to divert after Tricorner Knob shelter and take Balsam Mtn/Mt Sterling Ridge/Baxter Creek trails. This puts you out at Big Creek Campground. From there, it's either a road walk of a few miles to rejoin the AT, or use Chestnut Branch trail to rejoin the AT just south of Davenport Gap shelter. Along this path the trail is a little rocky, but extremely level for most of the hike until the 4,000' decent along Baxter Creek trail. There are two camping opportunities along the trail: Laurel Gap shelter and CS#38 at the Mt Sterling Fire Tower. It's about 6 miles from Tricorner to Laural Gap, and a little less than another 6 to the fire tower. It's 6 miles down Baxter Creek to Big Creek campground, and a 3/4 mile walk to the Chestnut Branch trail.
Alligator
09-19-2017, 13:01
Good point to mention permits. There are places to drop off the AT and then return too. We used #9 and #26 going through, returning back to the AT. It was a long time ago now but I remember #9 the trail dropped down to the campsite but #26 was kind of easy slope but overgrown. Over by Cosby Knob shelter, sites 29, 36, 37 could provide optional routing. Car camp at Cosby and loop around one day is another idea.
I sometimes consider a half-day hike to shift overnight spacing. We staggered in through the south end on the AT to what is I think now site 113, it was a shelter previously but had recently converted to tent pads when we went through. It's a long cardrop to do the park.
HooKooDooKu
09-19-2017, 15:00
Most campsite in GSMNP that are off the AT are either 5 or more miles away or 2,000' or more in elevation drop.
The only exceptions that I can find:
Gregory Bald & #13 - 3 mile ridge walk (IMHO, the side trip to Gregory Bald is worth it if you have the time),
#26 - 3 mile ridge walk (one of the 1st campsites to run dry when it hasn't been raining),
#29 - 2+ miles and 1,000+ elevation drop
#37 - 2.5 mile and 1,000+ elevation drop (popular with fishermen... and mice)
(You could argue #91 is less than a 2,000' drop, but given it's 2 miles off trail when #113 (old shelter spot on the AT) is only a mile farther up the AT, can't see anyone bothering with #91).
but I remember #9 the trail dropped down to the campsite but #26 was kind of easy slope but overgrown.
that is correct............#9 is a pretty decent downhill to get to...............#26 is not an ideal site..........its on the ridge and with a small spring...........but, its good for a night...
36 is generally a camp for people with stock animals...............
37 is more for backpackers...............theres a good size mice population at this campsite as its the park's most popular....
(You could argue #91 is less than a 2,000' drop, but given it's 2 miles off trail when #113 (old shelter spot on the AT) is only a mile farther up the AT, can't see anyone bothering with #91).
agreed...
getting to 91 is a pretty steep drop.......its worse coming back up....
but 113 is one of the best laid out sites in the park, imo.....