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What is a good lightweight saw for trail maintenance?
I have a bow saw, but want something lighter and easier to pack.
What is a good lightweight saw for trail maintenance?
I have a bow saw, but want something lighter and easier to pack.
Tried and true. http://www.svensaw.com/
mweinstone
02-18-2006, 00:03
dont need any other
What is a good lightweight saw for trail maintenance?
I have a bow saw, but want something lighter and easier to pack.
In my experience, for serious trail work, there is nothing any better than a small, any hardware store on sale, bow saw. A couple of extra blades are also useful.
Yeah, anything works for an occasional weekend. But a bow saw has withstood the test of time. Sawyers with a chain saw tend to do most of the big clearing in Maine.
FWIW: Everyone likes a giant and noisy chainsaw. But the most important trail work is done by maintainers yielding clippers. Few are willing to do this easy (and boring) stuff, like clipping. (Mostly clipping bushes and seedlings intruding into the trail.)
But someone has to. Why not you and me? Buy the lightest clippers you can find. The best have coupound gears that ease the cut.
Weary
What is a good lightweight saw for trail maintenance?
I have a bow saw, but want something lighter and easier to pack.
I think the best saw for general blowdown work is a backless pruning saw such as the 21 inch Corona Pro (http://www.benmeadows.com/store/product_group.asp?dept_id=1825&parent_id=7300) . Its my preferred saw since it can handle up to 12 inch hardwood and 18 inch soft wood when used with a wedge. It also can reach into a tangle of branches easily because it does not have a back to get in the way. It packs well in its sheath - my day pack has slots for skis and the sheath slides into one of these slots for a very easy carry. Note however it is probably about the same weight as a bow saw or possibly a little heavier.
For pruning work I use a pair of short handled (light) loppers - mainly so I don't have to bend over as far for the low branches and they handle up to an inch easily.
Frolicking Dinosaurs
02-18-2006, 08:10
I helped maintain before I injured my hip and leg. It's hard to beat the Svensaw for cutting. For clipping, I carried a swing blade with an aluminum handle - fairly light, no bending over and no touching poison ivy.
Tha Wookie
02-18-2006, 13:29
Tried and true. http://www.svensaw.com/
I secind the notion. The only problem with it is that it is not a deep bow, so larger diameter logs are not easily cut.
I carry that kind when I maintain the Cook's Trail in Athens.
I use a Gerber or Fiskars retractable saw, 3ozs. or go with the folding one a little heavier. Can cut 3" dia stuff.
Mr. Clean
02-18-2006, 15:42
I just bought the Trailblazer saw from Ben Meadows. It's a 24" bow saw that folds up into an aluminum tube. It looks pretty cool; I got mine for trail maintenance and can't wait till Spring to try it out.
I also bought a Mcleod fire tool a few years ago from them for doing drainages. It has a 10" hoe on one side, and if you spin it 180 degrees it has a heavy duty rake. Pretty nice for lots of drainages, but it is a bit heavy and pricey.
Tried and true. http://www.svensaw.com/
Nice saw, I bookmarked it. It I ever need a new one, I think I'll go with this one.
Panzer
I helped maintain before I injured my hip and leg. It's hard to beat the Svensaw for cutting. For clipping, I carried a swing blade with an aluminum handle - fairly light, no bending over and no touching poison ivy.
Some folks calls it a swing blade.
I calls it a Kaiser blade.
Hmmmnn.
The svensaw is a great saw, several thru hikers carried them as they are light and fit nicely into a pack, When I go out to maintain my section the first trip in the spring a carry a fairly small Stihl chainsaw, a quart of fuel and a half pint of bar and chain oil, a file and a chainsaw tool, one extra sparkplug, and a very small timber crusers ax. I am miles from the nearest road and I always have many large blowdowns to deal with. After the trail is clear on other trips I carry my svensaw, the small ax, a hand pick for clearing waterbars and some small brushclippers. I also carry a small jar of white exterior latex paint and a small brush to replace any blazes on trees that have beeen blown down. In place of painted blazes I also cut a white bleach bottle into 2 by 6 inch strips and tack them to trees with bark too rough to paint with nice square edges.
The svensaw is a great saw, several thru hikers carried them as they are light and fit nicely into a pack, When I go out to maintain my section the first trip in the spring a carry a fairly small Stihl chainsaw, a quart of fuel and a half pint of bar and chain oil, a file and a chainsaw tool, one extra sparkplug, and a very small timber crusers ax. I am miles from the nearest road and I always have many large blowdowns to deal with. After the trail is clear on other trips I carry my svensaw, the small ax, a hand pick for clearing waterbars and some small brushclippers. I also carry a small jar of white exterior latex paint and a small brush to replace any blazes on trees that have beeen blown down. In place of painted blazes I also cut a white bleach bottle into 2 by 6 inch strips and tack them to trees with bark too rough to paint with nice square edges.
Disposable foam brushes are ideal for blazing the AT. Though the "official" blaze is 2 inches wide, I always start with a one inch foam brush. That way I can work gently out to the 2 inch width and keep unsightly runs to a minimum.
Weary
this should work for ya..............
http://www.silkysaws.com/
I have a Sven-Saw "knockoff" I got at Big Lots. A wonderful saw, and if as I suspect the "real" Sven is better than my knock off: WOW! RUSH OUT & BUY ONE NOW!
Doctari.
SGTdirtman
02-20-2006, 21:30
At the risk of sounding dumb, Whats the policy on "trail Maitanence"?
Me and my buddies usually pack saws, axes, and alot of other useless military tools we never really use and will pass over fallen trees blocking the trail or overgrown sections but usually just go by the "leave no trace policy" so no one yells at us for cutting up stuff on the trail... the only time I've ever tampered with any obstructions on the trail was a time a log had fallen and there were several rattlesnakes under it, I decided to leave it be untill i saw a group of young (14-15 years old) day hikers coming the other direction so me and my group turned around and moved the log and snakes off the trail so the kids or the snakes didnt get hurt...
TJ aka Teej
02-20-2006, 21:58
What is a good lightweight saw for trail maintenance?
I have a bow saw, but want something lighter and easier to pack.
Here's a real good light folding saw, Deb:
http://www.benmeadows.com/store/product_group.asp?dept_id=12410&parent_id=387
At the risk of sounding dumb, Whats the policy on "trail Maitanence"?
Me and my buddies usually pack saws, axes, and alot of other useless military tools we never really use and will pass over fallen trees blocking the trail or overgrown sections but usually just go by the "leave no trace policy" so no one yells at us for cutting up stuff on the trail... the only time I've ever tampered with any obstructions on the trail was a time a log had fallen and there were several rattlesnakes under it, I decided to leave it be untill i saw a group of young (14-15 years old) day hikers coming the other direction so me and my group turned around and moved the log and snakes off the trail so the kids or the snakes didnt get hurt...
All I can say is what was my policy as an independent trail maintainer - I would cut and move any blowdown on the trail that could cause a problem for a backpacker - in practice I would cut/move any blowdown that was not flat on the trail - the ones flat on the trail I regarded as ad hoc water bars. Once I had cut the blowdowns I would try to contact someone in the trail maintaining organization that covers the area where I worked to tell them of the blowdowns that I removed so that someone would not waste time going out to cut something I had already done. WRT to other trail maintenance I would generally leave it to the clubs to do - a trail would have to be really brushed in before I would start trimming the brush to reduce the car wash effect for example. Blazes should never be touched / added by anyone not in the trail maintenance organization - ditto for adding water bars and check dams. I would rarely clean out any water bars.
WRT leave no trace - I would cut the blowdowns to keep the hikers from creating new trails walking around the blowdowns - thus I feel I was helping promote LNT.
LIhikers
02-21-2006, 09:12
Keep in mind that bow saws come in sizes. My wife and I have 3 or 4 different sizes to maintain our piece of trail.
Cut out the Sawvivor, only 9.5 ozs. and unlike the sven cuts full width. Plus you can use both hands without one being pinched.
http://www.tesco-shopping.com/trailblazerproducts.htm
I like that one a lot, Sly. Full cut, 9.5 oz., foam handle, easy to carry.
icemanat95
02-21-2006, 11:57
Building and maintaining trails through my own property for my kids and myself, I've found a basic bowsaw to be damned near ideal. A good sharp blade will power through even small tree trunks. Keep a wedge handyto prevent the wood from pinching down on the sawblade and you are good to go. Of the various folding saws, the small prning saws/hunter's saws are good for branches up to maybe 2 inches in diameter. The Sven Saw is limited by the triangular shape that makes cutting with the tip of the blade impossible. Thus you'll wear out the inner teeth real fast and work too damned hard to get the job done. The Sawvivor gives you full use of the blade teeth, but the blade isn't very long (only 15 inches), giving you about the same useful cutting area as the larger Sven Saw and better cutting area than the small Sven.
There are a number of professional arborist saws from Silky that would work and the Ben Meadows saw is interesting as well. Most of these backless saws are not rigid enough to cope with larger diameter wood, best kept for saplings and similar sized branches a couple four inches.
For intruding new growth creeping into the trail another option is an old-time sickle. Keep it sharp with a fine round file and it'll do a number on the skinny little shoots that creep into the trail (especially that nasty stinging nettle.) Weighs less than a pound with the file. Spray it down with gold metallic paint and play druid at night.
Cutting thick wood with any sort of saw, including chain saws, pretty much demands access to som chainsaw wedges to keep the saw kerf open while sawing, otherwise the blade will get pinched and bind. You can make these on the spot by cutting a hardwood sapling at a steep angle and then cutting off the wedge. Pound it into the kerf behind the blade to open the cut. They can also help direct the fall of upright deadwoods that pose a danger of deadfall onto the trail during high winds.
Cut out the Sawvivor, only 9.5 ozs. and unlike the sven cuts full width. Plus you can use both hands without one being pinched.
http://www.tesco-shopping.com/trailblazerproducts.htm
Sly, have you actually tried this saw? I tried it and found the frame too flexible, resulting in poor performance. Worked OK with 2 people so that every stroke was a pull, but that's silly for such a short saw. I love my Sven Saw. And my 3.5 foot crosscut.
timhines
02-21-2006, 14:31
Columbia Sportswear Timber Ridge Folding Camp Saw
$10 on sierra trading post. Not sure the quality though...or how it would hold up against some big items.
Replacement blades available
Opens to stable triangle
High carbon steel blade
ABS handle
Saw blade:20"
Closed:22-½"
Weight: 14 oz.
I love my Sven Saw. And my 3.5 foot crosscut.
DebW - are you required to be crosscut certified to be able to officially use that crosscut saw? It's a requirement around here anyways if you are working on gummit land. Its one of the reasons I mostly used the 21 inch pruning saw although I did occassionally break out the heavy iron (5 ft. felling crosscut saw, etc.) for the big stuff.
DebW - are you required to be crosscut certified to be able to officially use that crosscut saw? It's a requirement around here anyways if you are working on gummit land. Its one of the reasons I mostly used the 21 inch pruning saw although I did occassionally break out the heavy iron (5 ft. felling crosscut saw, etc.) for the big stuff.
You have to be certified for a crosscut saw of 4 ft or longer. Mine is 3.5 ft. Handles well for either one or two people.
Sly, have you actually tried this saw? I tried it and found the frame too flexible, resulting in poor performance. Worked OK with 2 people so that every stroke was a pull, but that's silly for such a short saw. I love my Sven Saw. And my 3.5 foot crosscut.
No, can't say that I have, but someone recommended it. I'm looking though, next next trip I'm supposed to carry a chainsaw!
jhedrick
02-24-2006, 09:58
As the Ridgerunner in the Shenandoah National Park I carried a 13 inch Corona saw that was good up to about a 6 inch limb or small tree. It has received extensive use and is still sharp. I have also carried a 21 inch Corona that can do a good job on a 12 inch tree. The Park Rangers use the Corona saws.
Web Breaker
SideWedge
02-24-2006, 16:03
At least in my experience, if you're out doing trail maintenance weight isn't the biggest issue. You're going to be a lot better off carrying a slightly heavier bow saw that works way better than a lighter saw which can't cut everything you need to. You'll end up exerting more energy trying to use that small saw than you'll save by carrying it. And I've never had an issue carrying bow saws, just make sure you have a guard that stays on well.
About the "do your own" maintenance--I would be pretty careful, especiallly depending on what part of the trail you're on. By incorrectly clearing a drainage, for example, you can actually cause more damage than you avoid. If you want to get more involved, contact your local club or section, and adopt a section of trail. All the clubs involved in trail maintenance are always looking for volunteers, on weekend work hikes and longer term volunteers. Not only will these clubs train you, but they'll give you all the necessary equipment as well.
trippclark
02-24-2006, 16:26
Tried and true. http://www.svensaw.com/
Agreed. I have had one for 20 years.
At the risk of sounding dumb, Whats the policy on "trail Maitanence"?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,...
On USFS lands you can get into a heap of trouble. You suppose to get permission, in writing, from the Rangers office the land is in. ALL RED TAPE.
Then, if a chainsaw is involved, A LOT OF RED TAPE. I know, I've done the RED TAPE, its almost not worth it, especially for chainsaw use. I've done the chainsaw certification courses-2 days(good for 3 yrs). Red Cross First Aid (good for 3yrs). Red Cross CPR(good for 1 yr), both took one whole day. Then you have a ton of equipment, helmets, ear plugs, safety glasses, certified chaps, boots, long sleeve shirts, gloves, first aid kit. You also have to have an assistant at ALL times when operating a chainsaw. The papers you are given interpret that each and every tree you clear must be approved prior to doing anything, This is the one I draw the line at. If I have to do this each and every time which = 2 trips, one to find the downed tree the other to go and clear it. I'll quit first. The USFS Law Enforcement do not take kindly to unauthorized trail maintainers. The rules for cutting firewood with a permit are not even in the same realm as clearing a trail. You don't have to have the equipment or the training to cut the firewood. Go figure.