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View Full Version : 2 Weeks Thru Mass and Vermont - Thoughts and Experience



Gambit McCrae
09-18-2018, 12:39
I took the first half of September off from work to do my annual 2 week trip. Last Year was CT, NY, NJ and Northern PA and was a blast. I went with a best friend/ #1 Hiking buddy and we had the time of our lives. Averaged 18.25 MPD with very little problems and really set high expectations for future 2 week trips.

Fast forward a year, #1 hiking buddy has moved, changed careers and has only been able to hike 15 miles with me in 2018. Regardless of expectations or the lack of prep miles we have still talked up a 2 week trip consisting of Northern Mass and all of Vermont. #1 Hiking Buddy explained he only had 1 week of vacation to spare this year and told me to choose when he should use it for the 2 week trip. I told him to meet me half way thru the hike, that it would boost my morale and I assumed that northern Vermont would be much greater then anything in Mass.

So the game plan was to walk from Goose Pond Rd north for 2 weeks and end up in Hanover, NH - Hopefully having enough juice to push on into New Hampshire as far as time would allow.

I flew out solo and got on the trail after a late night pickup in Hartford, CT. Jesse in Sheffield is top notch and I would reference her to anyone needing help in the Sheffield area. A++

Week 1 - I have learned thru hard knocks that I do not like solo hiking. Day 1 Morale is always high. I started off with a 24 mile day to Tom Lavardi in Dalton, MA. Made some hiking friends going to Maine and could keep their pace. By day 4 I was so depressed and discouraged from going further solo that I was ready, as times in the past, to throw in the towel. Fortunately for me I have learned who to call and who to not call at home when discouraged on the trail. I called Ms Gambit, and I called my dad and after a quick pep talk they talked me into getting a room at the catamount Inn in Bennington. I had gone 65 miles in 3.5 days and my brain and body was not working properly any longer. I had had little to eat and felt like my body had taken all it cold without more support then I was giving it. I learned that this is my downfall. Expecting my body to work all day, while putting little to nothing back into it. I got to the inn and started downing liquids and ordered a large meat lovers and 1 lbs of chicken from Bennington Pizza. I ate all of that. I hit Glastenburry at 8am the next morning recharged and ready to hit it hard again. I made it from Bennington to Manchester Center in 2 days, pulling off a 26 the second day during the first phase of hurricane Florence.

Rutland is where I was to meet #1 Hiking buddy and I had arrived a day early, so I got a day of rest!

Week 2 - I awoke at midnight to my buddy poking me, he had finally made it from Albany airport and had arrived at the Green Mountain Hostel. We got to the trail at about 9am and began our hike heading up Bromley. Week 2 was disappointing for both of us. It was disappointing for my buddy because of the effort he had made to join me vs the payoff which we both agreed was very minimal. Lots and lots of up and down, with no views. As well, due to me being conditioned from hiking all year, and then hiking the week before as well as his expectations based on last year's daily miles we started out at 20 mile days which after 2.5 days had more or less really taken its toll on my buddy. We got up and over Killington just as Florence was hitting NE with Phase 2 of storms. We got to the Yellow Deli Hostel(Good Experience) and sat out that night of storms. In town I had a huge gourmet burger, large sweet potato fries, a big bowl of coleslaw and a 16oz ribeye and 1lbs of mashed potatoes....for 1 meal. After the storms we got back on the trail and continued north for the last leg(45 Miles) which proved to be a whole lot of up and down.


After 13 days of walking north we got to the VT/ NH bridge at 7:30 PM on Thursday night. I had 2 shots of Jack left in my trail bottle and I took a double at the bridge in celebration. The hopeful miles into New Hampshire never happened. After the 202 in 13 days we both wanted a break. We had taken no zeros in the past 6 days and I had only taken 1 zero in 13 days. We got a room at the Days inn across from Dartmouth Coach and laid around and drank beer for 2 days, just enjoying not having anything to do until work on Monday. Already as I have been home for 2 days, the trip has soaked in as being over, and another "Grand Adventure" but I have not and won't forget the downfalls of the trip. The heat wave in Mass, the mosquito's so thick they smeared black on the back of my arms, and the relentless up and down pud's of eastern Vermont.

Key Points of Interest and accolades:
Jesse of Sheffield: A+
Staying the Bunks on Mt Greylock: B-
The bunk house on Mt Greylock is $35 but is a hot stuffy room. In little to no way does the lodge really accommodate LDH's. Dinner was $40(I opted for my pasta side) Beers are $6 a piece. Piano playing at dinner along with wine tastings and orderves. Just a real yuppy place.
Green Mountain Hostel in Manchester Center, VT is the cleanest, nicest hostel I have been in thus far. Duffy runs that place like a naval ship and it pays off. Very nice, very clean, A++ rating to this place.
Yellow Deli Hostel: Community bunks, Free, not spectacularly clean but hey it was right in town and we appreciated it. B+
Hanover, NH: People planning to end their trip, OR zero in Hanover need to understand that this is a very yuppy little town with only 1 suitable accommodation for hikers- The Sunset Motor Lodge. <<It was sold out, so we ubered into White River for 2 nights, and then into Lebanon for the last night across the street from the Dartmouth Coach.
Dartmouth Coach bus ride from Lebanon to Boston Int airport (BOS): Key notes on this!!! Seats are actually first come first served even though you punch in what time you wanna take the bus. The $38 ticket I bought is good for 365 days after purchase. This station is also NOT in Hanover but 7-10 miles south in Lebanon, NH. So if you end your hike in Hanover expecting to take the "Hanover" bus to BOS, you need to plan ahead and have a taxi or uber ready to take you to the airport. Best case scenario for you is to get that ride the day before your flight leaves to the Days inn across the street from the bus station, and then walk over the next morning(we left at noon- about a 2.5 hour ride)
Vermont MUD!!! What a sham. I was completely let down by all the hype of Vermont MUD. I didn't feel like there was any more mud, roots or rocks than any other state. I do understand that in certain months of the year, Vermont has a mud season, but hiking it in September that was not a problem, even with some storms moving thru. My 26 mile day in the rain did prove to have some angry mud spots, but it wasn't like it was 26 miles of trudging thru non stop knee high mud bogs.
Wildlife: Day 1 was the big wildlife day - 1 porcupine and 3 bears in Mass. I also got to see a red tail hawk take a squirrel out of a treen right before the Vermont Mass state line, and I saw 2 owls. Saw lots of Moose droppings(6-8 piles total), heard a moose crashing thru the woods just south of Manchester Center, VT. And heard a moose calling all night at Little Rock Pond Shelter.

I must add>> I asked about cold weather gear prior to my trip and I was skeptical of the majority response which was on average: "Pack for late fall hiking".
I took middle of the road. Summer bag, drifit long sleeve and zipoff pants for camp. Light puffy. down beanie.

5 of the nights I was so hot I laid on top of my bag sweating.
3 nights I was comfortably cool(cold front) - Slept 1 night in my puffy but stayed warm.
2 nights were a medium of the other 2 but mainly warm.

Pack weight with 4 days of food, 16 oz of whiskey and 1 liter of water was probably around 21 lbs
4366443665



To be continued with more pictures...

Berserker
09-18-2018, 13:16
So did you have fun? It sounds like you beat the doo doo out of yourself...maybe that's your type of fun?

As for Ver-mud I did VT in June several years ago where it rained the majority of the 10 days I was out there, and let me tell ya it was muddy. Now I don't know if you are one of those "trudge through it" types or if you try to keep your shoes dry, but I try to keep my shoes dry and it was challenging. When I was up in ME this year I almost just gave up and started trudging through it because there's a lot of mud up there too, and the rock hopping just wore me out.

Gambit McCrae
09-18-2018, 14:57
So did you have fun? It sounds like you beat the doo doo out of yourself...maybe that's your type of fun?


My honest answer is no I did not have fun. There was a 3 day window of a cold front, only 60 during the day, windy and low in low 40s at night that I had fun.
The rest? Had very little fun.

cneill13
09-18-2018, 16:46
That was a great trip report. Sorry things didn't go as well as expected. Those, however, are the trips you tend to remember the most.

C4web88
09-18-2018, 17:19
My honest answer is no I did not have fun. There was a 3 day window of a cold front, only 60 during the day, windy and low in low 40s at night that I had fun.
The rest? Had very little fun.

Well reading your trip report was enjoyable at least, sorry to hear it wasn't the best vacation, but I'm sure it beats the hell out of a day at work.

Slo-go'en
09-18-2018, 21:24
Thanks for the report!

The rain you hiked in wasn't from Florence, it was triggered by the cold front which gave us that fall like day or two. Florence passed through Mass and VT last night/today. Otherwise, it has been a fairly dry summer, so not surprised there was little mud.

Sorry you didn't much like the section. The unseasonably warm weather and relatively big miles for the terrain you did was no doubt a factor.

Not much for views, but I find it interesting for different reasons and there are a couple of high lights. The Vermont woods have a primeval feel to them. Too bad you were just a little too early for any color to speak of. It's just starting to show up here in Northern NH, a good 2 weeks late.

I also stayed at Bascom Lodge on top of Greylock. $35 for a night up there is a decent deal. How often do you get to do something like that? I also skipped the $50 dinner. That is a bit steep. But hey, free muffins for breakfast! Also saw one of the best sunsets ever from there. The tower was under renovation at the time though.

The Green Mountain House is a must stay. I always stay at the Inn at the Long Trail - just because.

Miner
09-18-2018, 23:00
Great trip report. Thanks for posting it.

That section would have been more scenic had you started 3 weeks later and hiked the first half of October when the views are drastically improved by the fall colors. Sorry you discovered you didn't like solo hiking. It isn't for everyone, but in my case, I'd rarely go hiking if I didn't go solo, so I've learned how to distract myself from feeling lonely.

Hikingjim
09-19-2018, 11:32
Although a bit later when the leaves are changing is nicer, that's still typically a good time to be in Vermont. You got some bad luck with the heat

I've tried to "push miles" in hot/humid weather before, and it never goes well! Certain places I can go all day in cool weather or dry heat, but the combination of heat and high humidity require adjustments for me to enjoy it

Gambit McCrae
09-19-2018, 12:59
A big part of the "fun" for me in trips is knocking out "new miles" and so from that aspect I had some good fun, because I knocked out 202 more miles off the to do list.

From the more desirable view point of "social fun" I had very little the first week because I walked solo. I met some nice people and on some lonely days I more or less sat down and started conversation with people walking sobo lol

from a "vacation fun" standpoint, it is funny how much I learned that last year thru CT, NY, NJ and PA really spoils a person. from the attractions along the way to the landscape and the eatery options.
Vermont just doesn't have those attributes. Its forest. There are no towns in VT that the trail walks thru(No you can not count West Hartford OR Norwhich as towns the trail goes thru lol




Thanks for the report!
The rain you hiked in wasn't from Florence, it was triggered by the cold front which gave us that fall like day or two. Florence passed through Mass and VT last night/today. Otherwise, it has been a fairly dry summer, so not surprised there was little mud.
because.

We got 3 VERY nice days where it wasn't above 70 and got down into the low 40's at night, really dry air and very comfortable. Everything else for 2 weeks was hot and humid however I only walked in the rain 1 day out of 13 walking days. That is VERY good odds.

Berserker
09-19-2018, 14:31
A big part of the "fun" for me in trips is knocking out "new miles" and so from that aspect I had some good fun, because I knocked out 202 more miles off the to do list.
I hear ya on this one. I've had many good trips, but I have also had some blah trips and some trips that have just down right sucked. I hike because I like to hike and be in the woods. With that said I also have the goal of finishing the AT. So when an AT section hike doesn't turn out to be awesome I always have the satisfaction of having done those miles, and knowing that I'm making more progress towards the bigger goal.

chiefiepoo
09-19-2018, 15:18
Thanks for a great trip report. I have some unfinished business up there to complete VT and part of MA. I started from Hanover after taking a bus from Logan that dropped me off right in Hanover. I took a local para transit route to the Sunset motor inn ($50 ) a little south of town and started south bound the next morning. It was August 2015 and it rained every day. I dropped off at the Inn at Long Trail when the forecast showed little relief. Like you hiking solo I can become depressing and discouraging. There were not a lot of SOBO hikers to keep up with. What was really amazing was that I met two NOBO through hikers I had walked with in NC 4 months previously while I was filling in a short stretch between standing indian and winding stair gap. I encountered them both within 36 hours on my southbound walk. What are the odds of that happening? I could not have recognized them but they seemed to have remembered the old guy with the grey beard. Sadly we did not have time to share stories. I took another local para transit to Rutland, took the train to NYC to kill time and $$.

Dan Roper
09-19-2018, 17:06
Enjoyed reading your report, Gambit. Thanks for posting. I especially enjoyed your comments dealing with the morale of solo section hiking. I think I'm about to transition from section hiking with one or both of my sons the past 11 years to doing it solo. They're in their 20s now and busy with lots of stuff. I enjoy hiking solo - at least day hiking - but hiking with my boys was truly enjoyable. I don't think going solo will be nearly as enjoyable. I think.

Astro
09-22-2018, 18:56
Thanks for the report!

The rain you hiked in wasn't from Florence, it was triggered by the cold front which gave us that fall like day or two. Florence passed through Mass and VT last night/today. Otherwise, it has been a fairly dry summer, so not surprised there was little mud.

Sorry you didn't much like the section. The unseasonably warm weather and relatively big miles for the terrain you did was no doubt a factor.

Not much for views, but I find it interesting for different reasons and there are a couple of high lights. The Vermont woods have a primeval feel to them. Too bad you were just a little too early for any color to speak of. It's just starting to show up here in Northern NH, a good 2 weeks late.

I also stayed at Bascom Lodge on top of Greylock. $35 for a night up there is a decent deal. How often do you get to do something like that? I also skipped the $50 dinner. That is a bit steep. But hey, free muffins for breakfast! Also saw one of the best sunsets ever from there. The tower was under renovation at the time though.

The Green Mountain House is a must stay. I always stay at the Inn at the Long Trail - just because.

Strongly agree with Green Mountain House and the Inn at the Long Trail. Had similar experience at Bascom Lodge, was greateul for being out of the rain and the muffins at breakfast, but regret the tower was under renovation at my time also. Look forward to seeing it again in the future.

QuietStorm
09-25-2018, 12:33
I just complete Vermont as well--from 9/8-20. I didn't try to do as many miles per day. One of my goals was to not rush through the hike as I usually do. Here was my final tally--


Total miles hiked: 156
Favorite camping spot: by Sargent Brook
Favorite shelter: Stratton Pond (Goddard was a close second)
Best-tasting water: Stony Brook
# bears: 1
# porcupines: 1
# deer: 2
# grouse that scare the crap out of you when you walk by: 254
# freaking Chipmunks: 3,456, including the bastard who chewed into my food bag and ate my Dove chocolate
# falls--6, including 1 in mud, 1 in water, and 2 sideways--all using trekking poles. I started just carrying the poles the second week and didn't fall once.

Astro
09-25-2018, 20:41
I just complete Vermont as well--from 9/8-20. I didn't try to do as many miles per day. One of my goals was to not rush through the hike as I usually do. Here was my final tally--


Total miles hiked: 156
Favorite camping spot: by Sargent Brook
Favorite shelter: Stratton Pond (Goddard was a close second)
Best-tasting water: Stony Brook
# bears: 1
# porcupines: 1
# deer: 2
# grouse that scare the crap out of you when you walk by: 254
# freaking Chipmunks: 3,456, including the bastard who chewed into my food bag and ate my Dove chocolate
# falls--6, including 1 in mud, 1 in water, and 2 sideways--all using trekking poles. I started just carrying the poles the second week and didn't fall once.

Where was your food bag when the chipmunk got it?

QuietStorm
09-26-2018, 12:05
Where was your food bag when the chipmunk got it?

Hanging in a tree. Not the best hang, but the best I could do with what I had.