View Full Version : First time Hot Springs to Erwin section
wolfywolfy
05-17-2019, 07:15
I have other sections but I am about to do Hot Springs to Erwin for the first time. Anyone have any good tips for this area? Side trails I should not miss or best places to tent etc...
Thanks in advance
Did that section in March...loved it. Firescald Knob has terrific views between Hot Spings and Devils Fork Gap...rock scramble beforehand. Couple small open fields up high as well. Big Bald between Devils Fork Gap and Erwin is nice..also a nice rock scramble beforehand.
Most of the water sources are springs in that section.
Just did that section a week ago. Your climb out of Hot Springs will be a doozy if you're loaded down with enough food to last you until Erwin. Kept the first day short at about 8 miles. There is a good tent site about 0.25mi down from the fire tower - which is a great stop btw, with awesome views and recently renovated. There is also a good spring just before the tent site. There are plenty of shelters and accompanying tent sites, and decent enough water along this whole stretch. Big Bald was my favorite part of that section. I had it all to myself just before dusk, it was glorious. If you're looking for a bed for a night, Nature's Inn Hostel - run by Taft and his wife, was a great stop and they can come get you from Devil's Fork/Sam's/Spivey Gaps. The house with private rooms has a massage chair you won't want to get out of. Definitely stop in at Uncle Johnny's when you get to Erwin, place has a ton of character. If you need shuttle information, lmk.
There is a grave marker right next to the trail North of Big Butt Bypass of a former thru hiker who had his ashes spread on that spot. It was really touching seeing the impact the trail must have had on this man's life.
MuddyWaters
05-17-2019, 10:51
I remember the 1st day out of HS to spring mtn shelter being harder than i expected for some reason. Had a late start, but by the shelter area i was ready to call it a day.
I remember the 1st day out of HS to spring mtn shelter being harder than i expected for some reason. Had a late start, but by the shelter area i was ready to call it a day.
It kicked a lot of folks' a$$. I thought I was going to be alone camping just 8 miles in from Hot Springs, but when a number of thru's also decided to setup with me, I didn't feel so bad.
Dan Roper
05-17-2019, 15:23
Hot Springs to Erwin is great fun. I enjoyed the climb from HS to the top of Rich Mountain (the fire tower) around 2014, but we met a retired law enforcement officer was a bit freaked out. It was his first day backpacking since his Boy Scout years. He was solo. Between HS and U.S. Hwy. 25 (maybe 5 miles?) he had three encounters: (1) a big rattler stretched across the trail; (2) a man parked on a gravel road, old car with doors open, interior filled with trash, slovenly and dirty hygiene, and a big bandage on his face; he took the bandage off, revealing a gaping wound, and asked, "Does this look bad?" (3) near the Hwy. 25 exit, a young couple openly copulating on the hood of their car.
Hot Springs to Erwin is great fun. I enjoyed the climb from HS to the top of Rich Mountain (the fire tower) around 2014, but we met a retired law enforcement officer was a bit freaked out. It was his first day backpacking since his Boy Scout years. He was solo. Between HS and U.S. Hwy. 25 (maybe 5 miles?) he had three encounters: (1) a big rattler stretched across the trail; (2) a man parked on a gravel road, old car with doors open, interior filled with trash, slovenly and dirty hygiene, and a big bandage on his face; he took the bandage off, revealing a gaping wound, and asked, "Does this look bad?" (3) near the Hwy. 25 exit, a young couple openly copulating on the hood of their car.
well at least it ended on a positive note.
all kidding aside, rock scrambles...? 8 miles per day.....??
this is TN/NC we're talking about right, not New Hampshire?
I hope this thread is being hyperbolic. Anything I've read previously suggests it is. I'll find out for myself soon enough.
i mean i was planning on hot springs to allen gap. 14.7 miles, 4720 ascent, 3800 descent. sounds like an easy run. am i missing something?
Puddlefish
05-17-2019, 17:36
I left Hot Springs on 4 hours sleep, because Elmer's was noisy as hell all night, so only made about 11 miles that day. Then my journal shows 16, a 9 mile planned NERO, 12, 14, 10 to a secluded hill that was just too pretty to pass up, 13, 13, 13, planned 8 mile NERO, 13 and blew out my knee, so my miles after were lame.
So you can make miles if you want, it was just average difficulty, and I was just getting into trail shape. I absolutely loved Firescald Ridge, at the base it was all trails winding through mossy rainforest, at the top there was a stretch of exposed big rocks to scramble over, but the views were amazing, and it was a relatively short stretch, didn't actually slow me down for long.
I left Hot Springs on 4 hours sleep, because Elmer's was noisy as hell all night, so only made about 11 miles that day. Then my journal shows 16, a 9 mile planned NERO, 12, 14, 10 to a secluded hill that was just too pretty to pass up, 13, 13, 13, planned 8 mile NERO, 13 .
again, i'll say those sound like NH/ME miles. what sort of miles did you pull through the smokies? (for frame of reference as Ive done the smokies). My mileage from fontana to hot springs went something like 17, 19, 21, roughly 18, roughly 16 (pained me to stop so early but it made sense due to various logistics of finishing on time and in place) and then 18 to finish.
are similar miles harder to do north of hot springs? i don't think i've ever heard it suggested that it was prior to this thread.
Puddlefish
05-17-2019, 18:23
again, i'll say those sound like NH/ME miles. what sort of miles did you pull through the smokies? (for frame of reference as Ive done the smokies). My mileage from fontana to hot springs went something like 17, 19, 21, roughly 18, roughly 16 (pained me to stop so early but it made sense due to various logistics of finishing on time and in place) and then 18 to finish.
are similar miles harder to do north of hot springs? i don't think i've ever heard it suggested that it was prior to this thread.
It was the same basic difficulty from Springer to Bland, VA as far as I'm concerned. The only mileage differences were because of my conditioning. I spent three nights in the Smokies, four days of hiking to get from Fontana to Standing Bear Farm. I wasn't rushing, I suspect you can do the same kind of miles north of Hot Springs if you wish to.
MuddyWaters
05-17-2019, 18:39
all kidding aside, rock scrambles...? 8 miles per day.....??
this is TN/NC we're talking about right, not New Hampshire?
I hope this thread is being hyperbolic. Anything I've read previously suggests it is. I'll find out for myself soon enough.
I left HS @ 930 am. Stopped at the shelter area at 430. 7 hrs, 11 miles.
I normally hike 17-25 in a full day. I remember wondering *** was wrong with me. It was getting warm thent too. I felt like stopping ...unusual for me . Ive hiked more than that leaving town at 1 pm.....
Not difficult, but a lot of uphill i guess. Full pack, etc.
It was the same basic difficulty from Springer to Bland, VA as far as I'm concerned. The only mileage differences were because of my conditioning. I spent three nights in the Smokies, four days of hiking to get from Fontana to Standing Bear Farm. I wasn't rushing, I suspect you can do the same kind of miles north of Hot Springs if you wish to.
sounds like our mileage across the smokies was basically identical, so why do you think it dropped off so sharply north of hot springs?
I left HS @ 930 am. Stopped at the shelter area at 430. 7 hrs, 11 miles.
I normally hike 17-25 in a full day. I remember wondering *** was wrong with me. It was getting warm thentoo. I felt like stopping ...unusual for me . Ive hiked more than that leaving town at 1 pm.....
thats disconcerting to hear.
Most people are carrying a full food supply to last until Erwin. And it's all up out of Hot Springs. Combined with a short layoff from hiking just made it tough. Judging by your past miles, you'll be fine. I was averaging 16 mpd after a few days.
Puddlefish
05-17-2019, 19:27
sounds like our mileage across the smokies was basically identical, so why do you think it dropped off so sharply north of hot springs?
Upon further review, I hurt my knee about four days earlier, so those string of 13s were taking it easy, but I really wouldn't have gone much further uninjured.
It was basically at my convenience, where there's a tentsite I liked, a hostel I wanted to visit, want to spend time with friends met on the trail, some nights I feel anti-social and just stop and pull up short of a shelter and stealth camp. I put more miles in through the Smokies, because that's how far the shelters were spaced, and I hate shelters, and it snowed half way through, I probably rushed a bit through the Smokies as a result. I was doing 12-15 a day immediately south of Fontana as well. I also had no time constrictions whatever, so I rarely made any attempt at big miles.
Upon further review, I hurt my knee about four days earlier, so those string of 13s were taking it easy, but I really wouldn't have gone much further uninjured.
It was basically at my convenience, where there's a tentsite I liked, a hostel I wanted to visit, want to spend time with friends met on the trail, some nights I feel anti-social and just stop and pull up short of a shelter and stealth camp. I put more miles in through the Smokies, because that's how far the shelters were spaced, and I hate shelters, and it snowed half way through, I probably rushed a bit through the Smokies as a result. I was doing 12-15 a day immediately south of Fontana as well. I also had no time constrictions whatever, so I rarely made any attempt at big miles.
got it, thanks.
hoping to do hot springs to damascus in 11-12 days. a couple of the posts here almost had me worried.
LittleRock
05-20-2019, 12:24
are similar miles harder to do north of hot springs? i don't think i've ever heard it suggested that it was prior to this thread.
HS to Damascus is no more difficult than the Smokies or anywhere else on the southern AT. Though I wish I'd gone a bit slower just to enjoy it more - HS to 19E gets my vote for the most beautiful part of the southern AT.
HS to Damascus is no more difficult than the Smokies or anywhere else on the southern AT. Though I wish I'd gone a bit slower just to enjoy it more - HS to 19E gets my vote for the most beautiful part of the southern AT.
haha yeah my one big concern even before this thread was falling into too much lallygagging to get the miles done.
i mean i'm all for stopping to take in the view but as enjoyable as it might be wasting away 4 hour chunks of time repeatedly isnt my ideal way to spend a week or so.
Tennessee Viking
05-20-2019, 14:42
Bald Mtn Range -
Rich Mtn Firetower above Hot Springs
Side trails to Jones Meadows and Blackstack Cliffs
Be sure to follow the exposed trail
Not sure how the trail goes now between Big Butt and Flint Gap. But visit the Shelton Laurel graves.
Nice overlook before getting to Spivey Gap.
Roan area -
If the Rodos on Roan are blooming, you may want to do a quick trip through the Gardens.
Grassy Ridge is awesome. The side trail to Grassy Ridge is rocky but fairly easy. There is a marker at the summit. A faint trail and bushwhack lead to a set up cliffs.
Definitely stay at Overmountain Barn. The valley view is worth it.
NB of US19E-
Mountain Harbour is a awesome stay.
Take the side trail to Jones Falls.
Coon Den Falls Trail (old AT route) is a steep descent next to a small set of falls out to Dennis Cove Road next to Black Bear Resort. Its ok. Nothing big.
There is a narrow cliff line right before the Laurel Falls steps to what is called Potato Top. The top has a large view of the Laurel Fork Gorge.
Definitely hit up Laurel Fork Falls.
After Watauga Lake there nothing of interest till Damascus.
Seatbelt
05-20-2019, 16:30
got it, thanks.
hoping to do hot springs to damascus in 11-12 days. a couple of the posts here almost had me worried.
You'll be fine, I did it in 11 days going fairly slow (I'm old) and I took in all the side views, towers, etc.
You'll be fine, I did it in 11 days going fairly slow (I'm old) and I took in all the side views, towers, etc.
thanks. i wasn't really doubting it but when 2 or 3 people all echo the same thing about it being harder than they thought it does give pause.
Seatbelt
05-20-2019, 16:40
thanks. i wasn't really doubting it but when 2 or 3 people all echo the same thing about it being harder than they thought it does give pause.
I thought the second day out of HS was harder than the first, just me.
wolfywolfy
05-21-2019, 20:01
Just did that section a week ago. Your climb out of Hot Springs will be a doozy if you're loaded down with enough food to last you until Erwin. Kept the first day short at about 8 miles. There is a good tent site about 0.25mi down from the fire tower - which is a great stop btw, with awesome views and recently renovated. There is also a good spring just before the tent site. There are plenty of shelters and accompanying tent sites, and decent enough water along this whole stretch. Big Bald was my favorite part of that section. I had it all to myself just before dusk, it was glorious. If you're looking for a bed for a night, Nature's Inn Hostel - run by Taft and his wife, was a great stop and they can come get you from Devil's Fork/Sam's/Spivey Gaps. The house with private rooms has a massage chair you won't want to get out of. Definitely stop in at Uncle Johnny's when you get to Erwin, place has a ton of character. If you need shuttle information, lmk.
There is a grave marker right next to the trail North of Big Butt Bypass of a former thru hiker who had his ashes spread on that spot. It was really touching seeing the impact the trail must have had on this man's life.
Thank you I will be looking for the tent area's you mention above. Did you see a homeless guy? I heard today there is a homeless guy and a hurt dog in the area and that the homeless guy walks around in a robe.
iceaxe56
05-22-2019, 19:00
Watch for rattlesnakes.Seems like that area has the most I have ever seen on a trail
so indeed hot springs to about tanyard gap had me doubting myself, but past that it was as expected, made it in 12 days, last day ending before 10 am, with one other day only being 9 miles.
the trail really changes at 19E, dramatically. people always mention damascus as one of the big points where the trail changes but i think 19E is the spot. a couple miles past 10E and you're essentially in VA as far as how the trail feels and what the hiking is like.