View Full Version : Hawaii Trails
illabelle
12-30-2020, 13:10
Alright Dogwood, if you're hanging around, this is your day. (Or anybody else familiar with Hawaiian trails).
If we took a 10-12 day trip to the Hawaiian Islands, what itinerary would you plan for us? Interested in backcountry, varied landscape, reasonable mileage for "average" hikers. Don't mind climbing, would love to safely see volcanoes, wouldn't mind some picturesque waterfalls. Cultural artifacts are interesting too.
I guess we'd need to acclimate if we went to the higher elevations, and pack for chilly or frigid temperatures.
Or maybe we should just sit on the beach, and go to Mt St Helens for the volcano tour?
colorado_rob
12-30-2020, 14:37
No meaning to jump ahead of DW, but here are my favorite hiking/climbing memories of Hawaii:
1) The Kalalau trail on Kaua'i; 23 miles r/t, I've done it a couple times as a long dayhike, also camped once near the end (11.5 miles). Gorgeous.
2) Climbing both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa (both mid 13ers), both from the saddle; yes you can drive up MK, but we preferred to hike it from the Onizuka visitor center (named after the astronaut who died on challenger).
3) Sleeping in the little cabin on the crater rim on Mauna Loa, you can book this through the Volcano NP rangers. Wow. "My God, it is full of stars". This might be the single most memorable thing in three visits to Hawaii.
4) Hiking all over Haleakala. Literally it seemed like we hiked all of the trails. You can backpack here, but we just did a bunch of day hiking, all from the summit. We tried to see the sunrise from the summit, a very popular thing to do, but alas, it was completely socked in on our reservation day (yes, you have to reserve parking for this!).
Unfortunately, Vol. N.P was essentially closed when we were there, due to high sulphur dioxide air levels, I guess this is not uncommon.
One bit of advice we were given from those who had been many times, max out at 2 islands for a 10-12 day trip; trying to do 3 or more will require rushing and missing out on the best experience.
Overall, I think we liked the Big Island the best over Kauai and Maui, the three I've been to. So many things to do, so many waterfall hikes, etc all over the place. I'll shutup now and let DW do his thing.
blackmagic
12-30-2020, 16:16
1) The Kalalau Trail on Kaua'i; 23 miles r/t, I've done it a couple times as a long dayhike, also camped once near the end (11.5 miles). Gorgeous.
N.b. overnight camping permits for the Kalalau Trail are highly coveted and absolutely required. Plan accordingly.
Odd Man Out
12-30-2020, 22:20
The view from crater rim on the Halemau'u trail on Haleakala is amazing. We just did a day hike to the rim, but the trail continues into the crater from there. Overnight stays are possible with permits. We saw many booming Silverswords and squawking Nene - both very rare flora and fauna. I posted about it here (https://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php/138455-Wild-life-!?p=2277960&viewfull=1#post2277960).
Note the covid travel restrictions, my sister flew all the way out and got turned around because her testing center was not accredited by them. Long flight for nothing.
illabelle
12-31-2020, 07:01
Note the covid travel restrictions, my sister flew all the way out and got turned around because her testing center was not accredited by them. Long flight for nothing.
Good point. I've pretty much already accepted that we won't be going anywhere in 2021 that involves air travel. We flew for 2 trips in 2020, but we had some strong reasons to proceed. 2021 will be different for sure.
illabelle
12-31-2020, 07:10
I can see that I really must invest time in studying a map of the area. All these exotic place names are intriguing, but I have no context for absorbing the suggestions being made. As noted above, this trip isn't likely in the coming year, perhaps in 2022. So I have time to research and plan and dream - which is half the fun!
Looks like I need to learn about reservations and restrictions and permits and island-to-island travel. All the logistical stuff.
Thank you for the recommendations and reports!
colorado_rob
12-31-2020, 08:59
I can see that I really must invest time in studying a map of the area. All these exotic place names are intriguing, but I have no context for absorbing the suggestions being made. As noted above, this trip isn't likely in the coming year, perhaps in 2022. So I have time to research and plan and dream - which is half the fun!
Looks like I need to learn about reservations and restrictions and permits and island-to-island travel. All the logistical stuff.
Thank you for the recommendations and reports!It IS indeed overwhelming, I remember my first visit to Hawaii... One little tip is to look at the "Hawaiian Alphabet" and it's use, basically 12 of the "usual letters" arranges into 2-letter syllables, basically all of the vowels (except Y) and 7 consonants (h,k,l,m,n,p,w). I found once we learned this, reading the names of things became easier plus easier to remember and they made some sense.
One other aspect is the seasonal weather variations; on Kauai, for example, the south end is better in the winter while the north end is better in the summer. Maybe this is a good starting point, when to go; I've only gone in the winter, basically escaping from our cold. Hopefully Dogwood will chime in on the best time to go.
Eye will be watching and taking notes on this thread as I have the same interests and 2022 might be my year as well. ( need to celebrate a hurdle I'll be up and over).
Colorado_ rob , could you elaborate a little more on number 3 please?
Where's that doggone Dogwood when ya need em?
Oh yeah ,HAPPY NEW !!
:clap Good by 2020 :banana !!
illabelle
01-01-2021, 06:54
I sent Dogwood a PM couple o' days ago. Several months ago, he had said he was done with WB, but I still see him posting now and then. Maybe he's on a hike somewhere.
Alright Dogwood, if you're hanging around, this is your day. (Or anybody else familiar with Hawaiian trails).
If we took a 10-12 day trip to the Hawaiian Islands, what itinerary would you plan for us? Interested in backcountry, varied landscape, reasonable mileage for "average" hikers. Don't mind climbing, would love to safely see volcanoes, wouldn't mind some picturesque waterfalls. Cultural artifacts are interesting too.
I guess we'd need to acclimate if we went to the higher elevations, and pack for chilly or frigid temperatures.
Or maybe we should just sit on the beach, and go to Mt St Helens for the volcano tour?
What I'd rec depends on the islands you'll be visiting, how'd you want to break up the 10-12 days, and HI COVID restrictions. Visiting HI so many different awesome activities exist. I suspect it will not be a hiking only 12 days? I know the least about trails on Oahu although when it was legal Stairway to Heaven was awesome for me. I suggest putting day hikes and possibly an overnight hike on the agenda while doing other things. You should get out on and possibly under the water too!
Active volcanoes equals only the Big I. And, there are not always convenient places to see flowing lava when it is flowing.
If it's your first time to HI don't bite off too many hikes. I suggest mixed activities like day hiking to sit on a green, red or black sand beach with rented snorkeling equipment or bicycling(actually you coast almost the entire way) from the Haleakala NP summit(10K +) starting after experiencing sunrise there in what might be near freezing gusty weather going to sea level.
"One bit of advice we were given from those who had been many times, max out at 2 islands for a 10-12 day trip; trying to do 3 or more will require rushing and missing out on the best experience.
Overall, I think we liked the Big Island the best over Kauai and Maui, the three I've been to. So many things to do, so many waterfall hikes, etc all over the place. I'll shutup now and let DW do his thing."
Actually don't shut up. This is all solid advice~!
I read this every week Rob. Ellison grew up in the same town I live.
“Your vision is not limited by what your eyes can see, but by what your mind can imagine. Many things that you take for granted were considered unrealistic dreams by previous generations. If you accept these past accomplishments as commonplace then think of the new horizons that you can explore. From your vantage point, your education and imagination will carry you to places which we won’t believe possible. Make your life count – and the world will be a better place because you tried.”
—Ellison S. Onizuka, June 24, 1946 – January 28, 1986
colorado_rob
01-01-2021, 15:24
I read this every week Rob. Ellison grew up in the same town I live.
“Your vision is not limited by what your eyes can see, but by what your mind can imagine. Many things that you take for granted were considered unrealistic dreams by previous generations. If you accept these past accomplishments as commonplace then think of the new horizons that you can explore. From your vantage point, your education and imagination will carry you to places which we won’t believe possible. Make your life count – and the world will be a better place because you tried.”
—Ellison S. Onizuka, June 24, 1946 – January 28, 1986
Yikes, I just got verclempt..... literally tears welled up.
I would definitely visit the Onizuka visitors center on Mauna Kea, not to be missed.
Quick story: So, we wound up climbing Mauna Kea (on new year's day!) starting at like 1pm from the visitor's center, summitting at sundown (keep in mind, the sun sets early this time of year, maybe 5:30 or so), then hiked back down. IIRC, it's about a 3000' vertical climb.
Anyway, when we got back to the Onizuka center, they were dragging a bunch of telescopes out for a star party, which was super cool. They had a 24" scope, pretty good sized! We even got to see Neptune's disk, plus lots of gorgeous stuff.
So, by then we were exhausted and asked the ranger if we could just sleep in the parking lot, he said sure, just park your car in the very back. We did, stretched out our pads and sleeping bags and went to sleep.... About 3am we heard a MAJOR ruckus... sounded like 100+ people milling about the parking lot. We were behind the vehicle and couldn't see them, tried to get back to sleep, couldn't because of the noise. We finally got up and peered over the car; it was a couple tour busses of Japanese setting up telescopes in the parking lot! Another pre-dawn star party!
Apparently, the Onizuka center is a pilgrimage for Japanese visiting Hawaii, honoring Ellison.
I can see that I really must invest time in studying a map of the area. All these exotic place names are intriguing, but I have no context for absorbing the suggestions being made. As noted above, this trip isn't likely in the coming year, perhaps in 2022. So I have time to research and plan and dream - which is half the fun!
Looks like I need to learn about reservations and restrictions and permits and island-to-island travel. All the logistical stuff.
Thank you for the recommendations and reports!
I'd research books that focus on hikes specific to each island you'll be visiting rather than all of the HI islands. Choose some that appeal. Then ask here. ie; chunk it down. OR, start here. https://hawaiitrails.hawaii.gov/trails/#/
I know Maui, Kauai, the Big I, Lanai and Molokai the most. Maybe if your nice I'll give ya a tour(if I'm on HI at the time of your visit), of the Kona area mac, Avo, and coffee farm I manage.
illabelle
01-01-2021, 18:04
I'd research books that focus on hikes specific to each island you'll be visiting rather than all of the HI islands. Choose some that appeal. Then ask here. ie; chunk it down. OR, start here. https://hawaiitrails.hawaii.gov/trails/#/
I know Maui, Kauai, the Big I, Lanai and Molokai the most. Maybe if your nice I'll give ya a tour(if I'm on HI at the time of your visit), of the Kona area mac, Avo, and coffee farm I manage.
So much to think about Dogwood! And yes, I have to do a lot of research before I can even ask intelligent questions.
Thank you for chiming in. I'll ask more questions as time goes on...
colorado_rob
01-02-2021, 08:35
...
Colorado_ rob , could you elaborate a little more on number 3 please?
Sure... basically you can reserve the "summit" cabin through the volcano National Park (because the cabin is in the park). At the time (8 years ago), it didn't cost anything (I think!), but you do have to reserve a spot. I cannot remember how many people the place holds, 12 or 15 maybe? We owned it when we were there in January 8 years ago. Nothing in the cabin except bunks and a table to cook/eat (bring your own stove!).
I put "summit cabin" in quotes because the true summit is all the way around the crater rim, something like 5 miles away, if making the true summit is important to you.
There are two main routes on Mauna Loa, one from the main volcano NP area, but that route is very long, something like 21-22 miles each way.
The "observatory" route is from the saddle of Mauna Loa/Mauna Kea, and is much shorter, 6-7 miles each way to the cabin. You will hear that rental car companies do not want you to drive the saddle road, not sure why, it is paved and just fine. we drove it anyway. This "rule" means the observatory trail is much less crowded than the long route. We saw precisely two people who shared the cabin with us in two days.
"Cimbing" Mauna Loa is kind of unique because it is so gradual it barely seems like you're going uphill.
Pic of cabin interior:
Thanks for all that rob i do appreciate it.
Funny my minds eye pictured my own cabin with everything and a big deck with my own hot tub and drinking big colorful drinks with cool umbrella. Watching the stars. Or perhaps sipping some of Dogwoods coffee, which I love his descriptions of the beaches and snorkeling, biking and such. That is a trip for me .
Illabelle sorry for hijacking or side tracking. I was actually going to start a thread on this soon myself.
There used to be a time when we used a travel agency for all this, is this still a thing?
illabelle
01-02-2021, 16:39
Thanks for all that rob i do appreciate it.
Funny my minds eye pictured my own cabin with everything and a big deck with my own hot tub and drinking big colorful drinks with cool umbrella. Watching the stars. Or perhaps sipping some of Dogwoods coffee, which I love his descriptions of the beaches and snorkeling, biking and such. That is a trip for me .
Illabelle sorry for hijacking or side tracking. I was actually going to start a thread on this soon myself.
No apology needed. I don't even know yet what questions to ask. I welcome your participation!
"Sure... basically you can reserve the "summit" cabin through the volcano National Park (because the cabin is in the park). At the time (8 years ago), it didn't cost anything (I think!), but you do have to reserve a spot. I cannot remember how many people the place holds, 12 or 15 maybe? We owned it when we were there in January 8 years ago. Nothing in the cabin except bunks and a table to cook/eat (bring your own stove!)."
You need an overnight permit to hike from ML Lookout to the ML Cabin to stay overnight. It's the same if only hiking to Red Hill Cabin along the way to ML Cabin. You don't reserve either cabin. You reserve a spot at the cabin.
"I put "summit cabin" in quotes because the true summit is all the way around the crater rim, something like 5 miles away, if making the true summit is important to you."
Many dont realize this. The RT is time consuming on assorted lava between ML Cabin and the true summit if either coming in from the ML Lookout TH, Observatory Rd TH, or Ainapo TH. There are other ways to ascend ML too but that's much less known.
"There are two main routes on Mauna Loa, one from the main volcano NP area, but that route is very long, something like 21-22 miles each way."
I prefer ascending from the ML Tr from the ML Lookout because 1) There's a roofed gazebo at the ML TH and rain squalls can be common at the TH with ML weather unpredictable. I've been snowed on every summer month on summit bids. 2) This trail is well graded 3) It makes one knowledgeable of how the trail begins with heavy tree cover some with flowers and how all flora disappears as the hike continues to higher elev. 4) It also allows a gradual acclimitization to Red Hill Cabin which can be utilized to break up the hike. a. This is important as nowhere other than if snow is found is H2O found anywhere on the way to the true summit or possibly until either cabin. b. it breaks up the elev. Altitude sickness can certainly be a problem ascending within a few hrs up to a 13K + elev with coming directly from the saddle from a beach front/sea level sleep spot the previous night! FWIW, I've summited ML 9 times. Every time I come across day hikers starting at the Observatory Rd TH that either are short or empty on H2O and showing signs of AS. Three times I've had to assist hiking parties back to the Observatory TH because of AS. ie; not everyone is coming from a possibly higher altitude as one living in CO. 5) This route is the most interesting with deep pits, views, different lava types, paint pots, colors, etc
I prefer descending on unknown routes or the Ainapo Trail. There's a cabin on this trail again with a rain catchment system.
"The "observatory" route is from the saddle of Mauna Loa/Mauna Kea, and is much shorter, 6-7 miles each way to the cabin. You will hear that rental car companies do not want you to drive the saddle road, not sure why, it is paved and just fine. we drove it anyway. This "rule" means the observatory trail is much less crowded than the long route. We saw precisely two people who shared the cabin with us in two days."
The Observatory Route is boring with the other issues discussed. Both the RH and ML Cabin have H2O catchment systems and large H20 receptacles. Recent cabin H2O reports should be ascertained as a pre hike requirement if staying at either cabin. It should also be noted the higher elev of the Ainapo Tr, ML TR and Observatory TR are all in open sun with no shade.
With my 9 summits in 6 different months the ML Tr from the ML Lookout has never had a full cabin. Tenting is allowed outside the cabins.
Last time I summited(2 yrs ago) 2-3 spare sleeping bags each were permanently stocked for emergency at both cabins.
"Cimbing" Mauna Loa is kind of unique because it is so gradual it barely seems like you're going uphill.
Well LOL the Observatory TR is well graded and shortish compared to CO 13ers and 14ers.
I prefer descending on unknown routes or the Ainapo Trail. There's a cabin on this trail again with a rain catchment system.
For those having the time or desire to experience HI Volcanoes NP more extensively or simply want to know what I like to do: I do a big HIVNP Loop starting from the Namakanipao CG (public bus will drop ya off, can be buggy with skeeters) hiking on a trail that parallels ML Rd or running the Rd to the ML Lookout, summit ML and descending on the Ainapo Tr. I connect with the Ka'u Desert Tr at Maunaiki. Stay at the Pepeiao Cabin(never met anyone there, kind cobwebby, it's built like the ML cabin) connecting to the Ka'aha Tr to Hilina Pali Tr to Puna Coast Tr to Chain Of Craters Rd. These trails along the coast are my fav in all of HIV NP with a stay at Halape mandatory(my favorite place to camp in the NP). Stop by the Pu'u Loa Petroglyphs. Connect with the Naulu Tr. Hike the one way back and out on the Kalapana Tr if the lava viewing is good at the end of this trail. This is the East Rift Zone. It is not an area to take lightly! Connect with the Napau Tr with a night at the Napau Crater CS. This place is so sparsely utilized! The CS's are in 10 ft tall fern forests. Pu'u O'o is sometimes active and lava can erupt in a curtain here. Awesome to behold! Come out by Pauahi Crater near the Escape RD passing mostly ignored Makapuhi Crater. Hit up a walk through Turston Lava Tube and catch a public bus back at the Kiluaea vistors Center back to Kona/Kealakekua or Hilo.
This takes me 5 days 4 nights. https://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/maps.htm (https://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/maps.htm)
I could do it faster but like the Sierras there's so much unique wonderful eye candy to behold.
For someone like CR he might like dedicating himself to a hike that starts in Hilo. Summits ML. Then, comes down by the saddle and then summits Mauna Kea and comes out through Forests Rds. No water is found on this hike. It's um rough.
What maps and or books could y'all recommend?
colorado_rob
01-03-2021, 09:44
Thanks for clarifying my poor choice of words on the cabins... yes, you get a permit for a bunk in the cabins... NOt the entire cabin!
The reason I promoted the Observatory trail from the saddle is because of the limited time the OP has (10-12 days), and in fact that's precisely why we did Mauna Loa that way.
I personally would LOVE to do a longer route, spending a couple nights.
BTW, once away from the rather ugly trailhead, the observatory route was gorgeous in its own way, walking on that a'a lava, with Mauna Kea in your face (well, behind you) and that colorful vegetation poking its way through the lava and the multiple bright colors imbedded in the lava.
If I remember correctly, doing the hike up to the cabin, then going around the rim to the true summit and back down to the trailhead was about 16 miles total. We did carry all the water we needed for the hike up, the night and the morning after at the cabin, the summit then the hike down. Probably 5 liters or so.
But of course, given more time, a longer route would be the better choice.
The reason I promoted the Observatory trail from the saddle is because of the limited time the OP has (10-12 days), and in fact that's precisely why we did Mauna Loa that way.
Exactly. I get that. It's our cultural habits. I'm offering the potential cons without just the pros. In our haste to do things fast or perhaps in an inappropriate manner there may be problematic things we're overlooking. For example, I've experienced zero visibility not being able to view my hand in front of my face on ML including in white outs on the Observatory Rd Tr. If you're not going to prepare for a 13er overnighter do a different hike. It's HI with MANY great hikes.
There's another con too! Day hikes require less gear especially in/on the mountains doing a 13K + overnighter. Who wants to ship a winter bag to HI on a HI vacation? For a shorter overnight perhaps one can buy the gear they need in Hilo or Kona at Academy Sports but good hiking outfitters offering cottage UL gear is not the HI norm. One might avoid extensive gear needs if they arrange a hike with Hawaii Forest & Trail at their Kona Headquarters. There're advantages to guided hikes like possible access to land and water only the guides have, culture, geological, flora and fauna knowledge as well as so many other oft forgotten assets a visitor likely does not possess.
Tailwinder
01-03-2021, 20:58
Something else to note when planning hikes in Hawaii is that the conditions are way different than the mainland. Expect many trails to be much narrower, steeper, and more slippery. You can hike on red, sandy clay, and with a bit of rain or mist, you'll feel like it's a slip n' slide, or, just as bad, your shoes will pick up the red slime and it'll feel like you're trying to walk with bricks strapped to your shoes. Some of those narrow trails are very knife-like and exposed if you have any issues with heights.
The other consideration is the amount of crime and break-ins at trailheads. Absolutely don't leave any valuables in your vehicles. I'd say Hawaii TH crime is ten times worse than the lower 48. No showstoppers, but we learned the hard way that it's...different! It's been 10 years since I lived there, though.
"Something else to note when planning hikes in Hawaii is that the conditions are way different than the mainland. Expect many trails to be much narrower, steeper, and more slippery. You can hike on red, sandy clay, and with a bit of rain or mist, you'll feel like it's a slip n' slide, or, just as bad, your shoes will pick up the red slime and it'll feel like you're trying to walk with bricks strapped to your shoes. Some of those narrow trails are very knife-like and exposed if you have any issues with heights."
True. For example, those described conditions exist in Kauai on the Kalalau Tr from the Ke'e TH to about the junction with the unmaintained spur to Hanakapi'ai Falls at Hanakapi'ai Beach(do NOT swim or wade here) can be wet super slick deeply rutted red clay that holds mud and water made worse with all the use as people attempt to pass on the sometimes narrow uneven ground. I've seen it in Wiamea Canyon SP/Ko'kee. When these conditions exist and as I've been starting at the Ke'e TH there are always Tourons returning to the TH to their rental cars covered in what resembles wet slick staining GA red clay from falling in the mud. Many of the waterfall hikes also have such trail conditions, including exposed slippery rocks and roots, and it correlates with people, largely tourists, who have their hurried unfocused minds not so much on safely hiking being injured around HI waterfalls each yr. It's similar to ignoring warnings about not hiking the Vermont Tr during mud season. I've been on unmaintained trails that are nothing more than game trails made by feral pigs that abruptly end at a thickly overgrown precipice. Most of the rock is not good for foot and hand holds in HI either. And, again, if not focused on expecting the unexpected or at least made aware of these possible conditions existing while also having our minds on our next activity...???
However, other very dry conditions exist on HI trails as well that may resemble AZ low desert hiking including cacti, thorny plants, lack of water, cinder subalpine desert, etc. Not only does elevation play a role in conditions. Hiking in the rain shadow dry side of each island or the wet side or someplace in between affects conditions much like east WA state or OR high desert or the west wetter sides of these same states. Dont ignore this as it plays into different weather that not only affects hikes but other activities ie; Hilo Beaches on the Big I are being swept by rain yet Kona area beaches are sunny and dry...and its' a planned beach day. For example Halekala NP contains rain forested as well as DRY SIDE areas past Kipahulu onto Kaupo and Ulupalakua on Hwy 31/Pilani Hwy. Hiking down into Haleakala "crater" from the summit building down the "Sliding Sands Tr", and across it, past Paliku Cabin out Kaupo Gap and down to Pilani Hwy the consequences of variable weather and rain patterns becomes obvious. Expect some thorny plants and plants with needles that stick on shoes and socks much like in Volcanoes NP on the Hilina Pali Tr.
"The other consideration is the amount of crime and break-ins at trailheads. Absolutely don't leave any valuables in your vehicles. I'd say Hawaii TH crime is ten times worse than the lower 48. No showstoppers, but we learned the hard way that it's...different! It's been 10 years since I lived there, though."
IMHO also as Kamaʻāina, True again! It's worse at some TH's like remote one's or in noted unknown haoles or tourons not readily embraced areas. Car rental company's vehicles are obvious to locals and that's what local criminals focus. That's why car rental companies advise leaving cars and glove compartments unlocked and not be left with valuables. Travel companies and the state of HI do a dam good marketing job protecting HI's tourism industry reputation as paradise. This makes economical sense since, last time I checked, 85% of HI's GDP comes from the tourism industry.
One more word about HI vehicle rentals since Colorado Rob mentioned earlier car rental companies don't want their vehicles on the Saddle Rd on the Big I or the dry side of east Maui. They dont want the long ride out there to service break downs OR they attempt to rent a 4WD vehicle that rents for much higher prices saying 4WD vehicles are necessary on roads like Hwy31/Pilani Hwy which unless a storm, tsunami or earthqauke has changed road conditions, isn't needed. IMHO doing a circumference Fig 8 of Maui or circumnavigating the BIG I or doing the "C" sahped road on Kauai on a road trip is a good way to note the differences between dry/leeward vs wet windswept sides that has an affect on pop centers, flora, current weather, wind speed, surface fresh water, wave quality, etc.
illabelle
01-04-2021, 06:23
DW and CR,
This stuff you're telling us about the trail conditions and crime and weather ... is valuable information. I appreciate you taking the time to explain things!
I'm really surprised about the rental car break-in problem. You're right that Hawaii has a reputation as a tourism paradise, a reputation which I'm sure they work hard to maintain. You'd think that the local criminal element would understand that their economy would be terribly crippled without tourism. "Don't bite the hand that feeds you!"
Something that hasn't come up yet that I remember is how the time of year factors into our decisions.
Does the tourist crowd get extra thick during certain months?
Does Hawaii have a real summer and winter, or a dry and rainy season, and does the season affect trail conditions in a significant way?
illabelle
01-04-2021, 07:39
DW and CR,
..... Hawaii has a reputation as a tourism paradise, a reputation which I'm sure they work hard to maintain. ...
So far my information (other than online) has been our Randy McNally 2020 Road Atlas and National Park Guide. It was a little bit funny this morning to read the following on the Haleakala description (emphasis all mine):
"...That all these views can be experienced in the same spot is just one of this park's SPECTACULAR flights of FANCY. Haleakala is a volcanic WONDER of the world that emerged front and center on Maui, one of America's most VERDANT PARADISES. And ascending or descending Haleakala can be just as EXCITING as the view from the summit itself.
"That's not all you can experience here. In another park section, just steps from the ocean at sea level but FAR FROM THE TRAPPINGS OF THE MODERN WORLD, a different NATURAL aesthetic is on view: a TROPICAL PARADISE of LUSH VEGETATION - including BAMBOO FORESTS, BANYAN TREES, and PALM FRONDS - all leading up to MAGNIFICENT WATERFALLS PLUNGING into DAZZLING POOLS."
"Does the tourist crowd get extra thick during certain months?"
Winter time/cold conditions in the Lower 48 brings the tourists to HI just as it may to FL or Bahamas. At this time flights, HI accommodations, car rentals, sometimes food, etc go up. I never book flights at the last minute for winter arrival. Christmas in HI ona palm lined beach is surreal for a mainlander accustomed to cold weather east coast Christmas'.
"Does Hawaii have a real summer and winter, or a dry and rainy season, and does the season affect trail conditions in a significant way?"
YES! but not what you may be accustomed on the east coast. Winter months tend to be rainier but again elev and what side(leeward, windward, or someplace in between) affects these conditions. Big waves tend to hit north shores in winter. Sea kayaking to Kalalau Beach can be on calm like ponds in summer and a washing machine of swift currents, higher surf, etc in winter. Summers at lower elev can be HOT. Remember the HI Islands are remotely located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. When I'm in Kauai I'm closer to Japan than Cali.
"Haleakala is a volcanic WONDER of the world that emerged front and center on Maui, one of America's most VERDANT PARADISES. And ascending or descending Haleakala can be just as EXCITING as the view from the summit itself."
Yes. For someone on a more broader HI vacation than hiking if Maui is a destination descending the Sliding Sands Tr to Kapaloa or Paliku Cabin and out to the Hosmer Grove or Halemau'U(?) TH makes for a short mileage over nighter. Utilizing cabins or shelters in both Haleakala and Volcanoes NP's equals less gear to fly to HI. Astronomical clarity is usually awesome at these cabins or from the summit building which is why the summit of Halekala also has observatories much like Mauna Kea on teh Big I.
"That's not all you can experience here. In another park section, just steps from the ocean at sea level but FAR FROM THE TRAPPINGS OF THE MODERN WORLD, a different NATURAL aesthetic is on view: a TROPICAL PARADISE of LUSH VEGETATION - including BAMBOO FORESTS, BANYAN TREES, and PALM FRONDS - all leading up to MAGNIFICENT WATERFALLS PLUNGING into DAZZLING POOLS."
This is referring to areas like Oheo Gulch, the tourist labeled 7 sacred pools, and hiking to Waimoku Falls via the gorgeous but well traveled Pipiwai Tr(great bamboo forest rivaling that in Cherokee NC at Oconaluftee Island Park)
with the TH accessed by paved road usually from Hana within a short walk from a NP CG that are quite a driving distance away from the summit area yet still in H NP. You used to be able to hike to the crest of 200' Makahiku Falls on a .5 mile spur but death after death of tourists being swept over the falls this spur is closed. I almost drowned here at the base of a different waterfall north of Makahiku Falls on Oheo Gulch Stream. BTW driving the Road to Hana from Kipahulu there's an abundance of day hikes. Might even glance a celebrity or two or 20.
https://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/hiking.htm
https://santorinidave.com/best-time-to-visit-hawaii
Maui Rhino
01-10-2021, 06:36
Please remember to check on current Covid restrictions as you get closer to your trip. Currently, campgrounds and overnight Wilderness permits are closed at both Haleakala National Park and the Hawaii State Parks.
illabelle
01-10-2021, 07:38
Please remember to check on current Covid restrictions as you get closer to your trip. Currently, campgrounds and overnight Wilderness permits are closed at both Haleakala National Park and the Hawaii State Parks.
Indeed. This trip is not likely until 2022 or later. Just researching and dreaming at this stage.
Odd Man Out
01-10-2021, 14:58
I did the hike to the waterfall at the lower section of Haleakala NP as well as the 7 pools area. Very nice. Waianapanapa State park just before Hana is also nice. I did some rock scrambling on the coast there with inadequate foot protection and got a nasty sunburn on my ankles that almost ruined my trip. The whole trip to Hana and beyond is pretty spectacular. One interesting thing about HI is with the prevailing winds coming from the North, the north sides of the islands tend to have lots of rain and rough seas, which is not a good place for a 5 star resort since tourist want to relax in the sun on the beach and swim in calm seas. This you find on the rain shadow of the mountains which is why you find most of the big resorts on the south side. But the tourists also want the lush tropical atmosphere of the North. The solution is to build the big resorts on the south side, irrigate the landscaping all night, and build a big wall so you don't see the cactus covered lava outside the resort. It all seems very artificial, but that what big resorts are all about. The drive to Hana on the north side is a lot more genuine. If you do get to Hana, be sure to go to the Red Sand Beach. It is small, but still the most spectacular beach I've seen. Getting there is a bit dicey. Google it for current conditions.
Also, this thread got me reading about other backpacking options. For more adventure, I read about a couple of unmaintained trails starting from the Paliku Cabin in the Haleakala crater. One is the Lau'ulu Trail to the Kalapawili Ridge (out and back day hike from the cabin/campground). The other is the Kaupo trail that goes from the crater rim to the ocean ( down only unless you want to hike back up a 10,000 foot valcano. I've not done either but they sound pretty epic from the trip reports I've read. Being unofficial unmaintained trails, you'd have to do your homework and go at your own risk.
illabelle
01-11-2021, 07:09
The solution is to build the big resorts on the south side, irrigate the landscaping all night, and build a big wall so you don't see the cactus covered lava outside the resort. It all seems very artificial, but that what big resorts are all about.
Remind me to stay away from the big resorts.
Something I've neglected to mention is Pearl Harbor. I definitely want to visit. Much sacrifice, much respect.
Odd Man Out
01-12-2021, 00:55
Remind me to stay away from the big resorts.
Something I've neglected to mention is Pearl Harbor. I definitely want to visit. Much sacrifice, much respect.
The resorts are fun for what they are. My wife and I went to a cocktail lounge in a resort lobby and ordered a rediculous drink overflowing with fruit and little umbrellas while watching the tiki torch lighting ceremony. It was fun.
One other aspect of Hawaii travel I didn't anticipate is sunset. Due to its proximity to the equator, summer days aren't much longer than winter days an the sun drops straight down rather than lingering on the horizon. The result is it gets dark very early and very fast. One day we went into a convenience store to buy some sunscreen and when we came out it was dark. It was like someone just turned out the lights. I thought what good is all this beautiful weather when it's dark half the day.
"The solution is to build the big resorts on the south side, irrigate the landscaping all night, and build a big wall so you don't see the cactus covered lava outside the resort. It all seems very artificial, but that what big resorts are all about. The drive to Hana on the north side is a lot more genuine."
LOL. I guess you've never been to the high end resorts on the west side of west Maui stretching between Lahaina and Kapalua. Kaanapali is world famous gorgeous. One of the most memorable sunsets I ever saw was looking west to Japan from a Kaanaapli beach at the time of the yr when the sun set between Lahaina and Molokai. Lahaina sunsets near the marina are fairly awesome as well made better with breaching whales and Spinner dolphins. There's a public accessed concrete and gravel path along the Kaanaapli beach that goes through the resorts sometimes referred to as the Kaanaapli Tr. Further on is the Kapalua Coastal Tr.
https://www.westmauicondos.com/things-to-do/hiking-in-maui/kaanapali-beach-boardwalk
Odd Man Out
01-12-2021, 16:56
LOL. I guess you've never been to the high end resorts on the west side of west Maui stretching between Lahaina and Kapalua. Kaanapali is world famous gorgeous. One of the most memorable sunsets I ever saw was looking west to Japan from a Kaanaapli beach at the time of the yr when the sun set between Lahaina and Molokai. Lahaina sunsets near the marina are fairly awesome as well made better with breaching whales and Spinner dolphins. There's a public accessed concrete and gravel path along the Kaanaapli beach that goes through the resorts sometimes referred to as the Kaanaapli Tr. Further on is the Kapalua Coastal Tr. https://www.westmauicondos.com/things-to-do/hiking-in-maui/kaanapali-beach-boardwalk
We were further south on the Maui coast, down by Wailea. Perhaps the difference there is more stark as Haleakala has a bigger rain shadow than the mountain on the north side. This Google Maps image shows pretty clearly the difference between what's irrigated and what isn't. We did enjoy a day at Lahina (I think we did the glass-bottom boat tour from there), but didn't stop at the Kaanaapali resort strip. One thing I observed is that while in the rainy areas it would rain almost every day, it was in brief scattered showers. I also noticed that the locals didn't seem to care about the rain. They would drive around in convertibles with the top down through the rain. We were there for two weeks and saw more rainbows than I would see in a year at home.
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