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kgilby
08-30-2006, 00:58
My wife and I are going to do a 1 or 2 night hike this fall on the AT and neither of us has ever backpacked. We are both in average shape for our age - I'm 50, she's 49. I was considering the Newfound Gap/Clingmans Dome area but hoped to get some suggestions here for a section that will be a good intro to the AT - something that isn't too difficult that has some nice views, to be sure this isn't our 1st and last hike together. Also, any input on Trails.com would be great as I got an email from them for a 1/2 off subscription offer the other day, good until 8/31. If I'm in the wrong place somebody please point me in the right direction.

ffstenger
08-30-2006, 05:12
:welcome to White Blaze!
The Smokys is a great introduction to hiking the AT, but it can be a bit difficult for beginners. The area from Clingmans Dome to Newfound Gap
would be a good overninght with a stay at Mt. Collins shelter. Be sure to make shelter reservations before you go, and pick up a back country permit
before you enter the park. As far as scenery gos, with the Smokys or the whole AT, you take what you get..... The best of views can be lost to bad weather:( Have you aquired gear yet??? Lots of good advice on WB as to what to carry, check out the gear review threads. I'm doing a repeat section hike in the Smokys the end of Sept, looking foreward to that. Hope you have a good Hike! Show-me

Gray Blazer
08-30-2006, 07:21
Welcome to WB. I started backpacking again after a 30 yr hiatus and I was ready to give up on the 1st steep uphill. Make sure you lighten your load as much as possible. I'm not sure you have any hills in Chicago. If you can get into Soldier Field or any other stadium, you can climb the stadium steps a few times to see what going up the mountains is like. The Newfound Gap area would be great for beginning as you are not going to be making any extended steep ascents. Have fun. Be Careful, you may get addicted to hiking like me.

joec
08-30-2006, 09:07
My wife and I went on a overnite last yr and I started something that she loves and it gets her to go with me more often. We get a shuttle out of town and hike back into town, where she gets a massage and a little pampering. Started this by hiking into Damascus and staying at a bed and breakfast and then on into Ashville for the massage. Last spring it was starting at Max Patch and into Hot Springs for hot tubs and massage. It will do wonders for your wife if she is less than happy with the uphills.

Gray Blazer
08-30-2006, 09:32
My wife and I went on a overnite last yr and I started something that she loves and it gets her to go with me more often. We get a shuttle out of town and hike back into town, where she gets a massage and a little pampering. Started this by hiking into Damascus and staying at a bed and breakfast and then on into Ashville for the massage. Last spring it was starting at Max Patch and into Hot Springs for hot tubs and massage. It will do wonders for your wife if she is less than happy with the uphills.

Man, you're making the rest of us look bad.:rolleyes:

sliderule
08-30-2006, 09:33
In my opinion, the best two night trip in the Smokies (hands down) is to start at Newfound Gap, take the AT north to Icewater Springs shelter. (Visit Charlies Bunion on day one.) Next day take the Boulevard Trail to Mt. Leconte shelter for the second night. On day three, hike down the Alum Cave Trail to Hwy 441.

As short shuttle or hitch is involved. I usually drop my gear and companion(s) at Newfound Gap, then drop the car at the Alum Cave trailhead before starting to hike. Hitching a ride back up to Newfound Gap has always been easy.

This hike might be described as more "moderate" than easy. But with only 5 miles to cover per day, you can take your time.

Ewker
08-30-2006, 09:35
In my opinion, the best two night trip in the Smokies (hands down) is to start at Newfound Gap, take the AT north to Icewater Springs shelter. (Visit Charlies Bunion on day one.) Next day take the Boulevard Trail to Mt. Leconte shelter for the second night. On day three, hike down the Alum Cave Trail to Hwy 441.

As short shuttle or hitch is involved. I usually drop my gear and companion(s) at Newfound Gap, then drop the car at the Alum Cave trailhead before starting to hike. Hitching a ride back up to Newfound Gap has always been easy.

This hike might be described as more "moderate" than easy. But with only 5 miles to cover per day, you can take your time.

I have a friend who hasn't hiked in the Smokies before and this is the hike we will de doing in Oct

sliderule
08-30-2006, 09:38
pick up a back country permit
before you enter the park.

It's a lot easier to find one inside the park!!!

kgilby
08-30-2006, 13:10
Thanks for the suggested routes, they definitely look to be doable for either 1 or 2 nights. I spoke with someone this morning who does shuttling in the area and he suggested avoiding the Mt. LeConte shelter. The main reason he gave was that if, after getting a permit, the shelter is full when we arrive, we would not be able to pitch the tent, especially since Rangers seem to frequent the LeConte area. I was/am leaning toward the Newfound Gap/Icewater Spring/LeConte 2 night trip, as Ewker suggests, but would hate to be faced with having to hike the 5 add'l. miles to 441 from LeConte if it is full. Is this a common thing?
Thanks again for your posts.

Ewker
08-30-2006, 13:32
the times I have been there the shelter wasn't full. Usually no permits will be given out after the shelter reaches its max capacity of 12 people. If there is more people than 12 there that means that someone is there without a permit. The ranger has always stopped by when I was there to check permits.
Just remember you need to call 30 days in advance to get a permit.

sliderule
08-30-2006, 14:12
I spoke with someone this morning who does shuttling in the area and he suggested avoiding the Mt. LeConte shelter. The main reason he gave was that if, after getting a permit, the shelter is full when we arrive, we would not be able to pitch the tent, especially since Rangers seem to frequent the LeConte area.

That's nonsense. A permit for a shelter is essentially a reservation. It entitles the holder to a space in the shelter. Since LeConte is not on the AT, everyone there should have a reservation. (It is not first come, first served.) If they don't, then they are the ones who need to sleep outside or hike down the mountain. (That's when you want a ranger to show up!!)

In over 30 years of hiking in the Smokies, there has never been a time when I was not able to stay in a shelter that I had a permit for. Yes, there were a couple of times when I have had to move some noncompliant hikers out who did not have permits, but so be it.

Typically, there are more people who have reservations and don't show up than those who do the opposite.

kgilby
08-30-2006, 14:48
I'm glad to hear that this is a rare happening. I just don't want to be in a position of turning a day of hiking into a day+ an evening of hiking.
Thanks.

MOWGLI
08-30-2006, 14:55
Gilby:

The Smokies are a great place to hike. Especially in October. I would suggest Shenandoah NP for beginners however. The area you're looking at is over 5000' in elevation. The weather can be very unpredictable up high. Shenandoah is fairly gentle terrain, lower in elevation, and closer to Chicago. It is also a beautiful place to hike.

Whatever you choose to do - enjoy yourselves and be safe.

Creek Dancer
08-30-2006, 15:02
I have a friend who hasn't hiked in the Smokies before and this is the hike we will de doing in Oct

That's funny. I have friend who is taking me on a this trip in October. :banana

kgilby
08-30-2006, 16:40
[quote=MOWGLI16]Gilby:

I would suggest Shenandoah NP for beginners however.
quote]

MOWGLI16,
I'm certainly open to any section of the trail - if you have suggestions for any particular sections of the trail in Shenandoah, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

LIhikers
08-30-2006, 17:06
You might want to consider western New Jersey. It's surprisingly nice and it's an easy hike. You'll have enough to get used to with this being your first backpacking trip without picking someplace that's a difficult hike. It might also be the easiest section of trail for you to get to, if that matters.

MOWGLI
08-30-2006, 20:15
MOWGLI16,
I'm certainly open to any section of the trail - if you have suggestions for any particular sections of the trail in Shenandoah, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

You know - I blew through there in 4.5 days in 2000, and only recently went back to hike off of the AT. I'm sure folks here could help out - or you could simply get the guidebook and maps and design a loop hike using the AT.

Anybody else have any suggestions for a weekend trip in Shenandoah?

TIDE-HSV
08-30-2006, 20:35
close to the loop my wife and I are doing, starting 9/18. However, we're starting at 441, hiking into the Kephart Shelter, then up Sweat Heifer to Icewater Spgs and then over to LeConte. We have shelter reservations, but, if a cancellation pops up at the Lodge, we'll home in there for someone else to cook for us. BTW, Ewker, I looked at your Boulevard trip pics from last year on Webshots. Awesome...

sliderule
08-30-2006, 21:11
close to the loop my wife and I are doing, starting 9/18. However, we're starting at 441, hiking into the Kephart Shelter, then up Sweat Heifer to Icewater Spgs and then over to LeConte.

The scenery is better if you take the Grassy Branch and Dry Sluice Gap Trail up to the AT from the Kephart Shelter.

Ewker
08-30-2006, 21:29
That's funny. I have friend who is taking me on a this trip in October. :banana

that is very nice of your friend to do that for you :sun

TIDE-HSV
08-30-2006, 21:34
at that, Slide. We were re-creating our first BP together 22 years ago. She reminded me that, on that hike, we didn't stop at Icewater, we continued on across Blvd to LeConte. I'll look it up, but do you remember the mileage off-hand?

TIDE-HSV
08-30-2006, 21:46
My wife informs me that she's certain that on that long ago hike, we took Grassy Branch and Richland Mtn, rather than Sweat Heifer, and I know better than to disagree with her...:)

kgilby
08-30-2006, 22:39
close to the loop my wife and I are doing, starting 9/18. However, we're starting at 441, hiking into the Kephart Shelter, then up Sweat Heifer to Icewater Spgs and then over to LeConte. We have shelter reservations, but, if a cancellation pops up at the Lodge, we'll home in there for someone else to cook for us. BTW, Ewker, I looked at your Boulevard trip pics from last year on Webshots. Awesome...

Sounds like a nice route - good luck with the LeConte Lodge, too, that would be a nice way to cap it off.

Ewker
08-30-2006, 22:55
BTW, Ewker, I looked at your Boulevard trip pics from last year on Webshots. Awesome...


Tide, glad you liked them. I have this bad problem of taking to many pics when I go to the Smokies. Seems like around every turn a photo op is waiting.

Hey by any chance do you know MDShiker or bitpusher. They live in the Huntsville area

sliderule
08-30-2006, 23:21
at that, Slide. We were re-creating our first BP together 22 years ago. She reminded me that, on that hike, we didn't stop at Icewater, we continued on across Blvd to LeConte. I'll look it up, but do you remember the mileage off-hand?

It's a little less than 5 miles either way, Kephart Shelter to Icewater Springs Shelter.

TIDE-HSV
08-31-2006, 00:06
I found it. It's just a little more indirect route, but she's right - it's the one we took. Ewker, I don't know these guys by trailnames, but I may know them otherwise. The last time we did Blvd, several years, we crossed in a severe thunderstorm, crouching under rocks and making a run for it when things calmed down temporarily. I'm hoping this one erases that, given the number of times we've hiked it in peaceful weather. The couple we were with had been hit by lightning years earlier near Stratton Meadows, and, later, hiking with them near Vail, CO, we had to take shelter from lightning. You'd think we'd learn not to hike with lightning rods...

hiker2139
08-31-2006, 20:50
Welcome to the world of backpacking! I went on my first backpacking trip on the AT. It was an overnighter right around Roan Mountain. There's a parking lot/trailhead on Hwy 19 right on the NC/TN border. The stretch that I'm thinking of is about 3.5-4 miles that goes up and over about three balds. Towards the top of the final bald, the AT branches off to the left, but if you keep going straight, you will pass a small momument and past that there are several spots to camp on top of a bald along the next half mile or so. You will be completely spoiled up there because there are lots of rhododendrons bushes (of course it's better in june when they are blooming), views on either side, and a nice water source. The water source is well hidden, but I can give you more info on where it is if you are interested.

This stretch is not too strenuous and would be a great intro to backpacking. Best of luck!

kgilby
08-31-2006, 22:51
Welcome to the world of backpacking! I went on my first backpacking trip on the AT.

This stretch is not too strenuous and would be a great intro to backpacking. Best of luck!

Thanks hiker2139, that's the level of hike I think we should start with. I think I'm going to try and include some fly fishing in this hike as there seems to be some great trout streams in the park, too.

MOWGLI
08-31-2006, 22:59
Thanks hiker2139, that's the level of hike I think we should start with. I think I'm going to try and include some fly fishing in this hike as there seems to be some great trout streams in the park, too.

There are virtually no trout streams along the AT in GSMNP. The AT is a ridge trail - and the section north of Newfound Gap is over 5000' in elevation for miles.

In order to get into fishable water - you'll have to wander off of the AT. That's not too difficult with 900 miles of trails in the park.

kgilby
09-01-2006, 09:17
In order to get into fishable water - you'll have to wander off of the AT. That's not too difficult with 900 miles of trails in the park.

Uh, thanks, MOWGLI16, I heard the Little river or Pigeon river hold a variety of trout. Have you fished either of these?

MOWGLI
09-01-2006, 09:29
Uh, thanks, MOWGLI16, I heard the Little river or Pigeon river hold a variety of trout. Have you fished either of these?


I haven't. The AT crosses the Pigeon on a road bridge just north of GSMNP. Better trout fishing could be had in the remoter areas of the park. The NPS has a brochure about fishing in the park. I suggest you pick one up or talk to a Ranger about it when you visit the park. Good luck.

hiker2139
09-01-2006, 15:22
Hi kgilby,
Glad that you liked my trail idea...it looks like you are interested in visiting the Smokies. This section is a couple of hours north of the Smokies. Not sure if it matters, but thought that you might want to know...

kgilby
09-01-2006, 15:45
Hi kgilby,
Glad that you liked my trail idea...it looks like you are interested in visiting the Smokies. This section is a couple of hours north of the Smokies. Not sure if it matters, but thought that you might want to know...

Sorry, I didn't realize you were referring to another area of the state. I had read something in an overnight hike guide about Roan Mtn., but just assumed it was in the park. I would be interested in knowing more about that trail, as we haven't made any definite plans on exactly where we'll hike, as long as part our walk includes the AT. Thanks.

kgilby
09-01-2006, 15:47
The NPS has a brochure about fishing in the park. I suggest you pick one up or talk to a Ranger about it when you visit the park. Good luck.

Thanks MOWGLI16, I'll see if I can get my hands on that brochure.

TIDE-HSV
09-01-2006, 18:33
this link: http://www.gsmnp.com/pages/fishing.html

kgilby
09-01-2006, 19:03
this link: http://www.gsmnp.com/pages/fishing.html

Thanks, I'd seen that page earlier, but it doesn't list any of the individual streams in the park. I waited too long to call the park - I'll have to call Monday.

TIDE-HSV
09-01-2006, 20:32
a little more here, if you haven't seen it...

http://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/fishing.htm

kgilby
09-04-2006, 17:50
a little more here, if you haven't seen it...

http://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/fishing.htm

Thanks, TIDE-HSV, that's good stuff. I was out of town for the holiday weekend and will call the park tomorrow to see if they have more detailed info.