View Full Version : Snowshoe Recommendations?
Any experience/recommendations for showshoes to hike on the AT through the GSMNP in late Jan./Feb. where snow can be two or three feet deep?
I have never backpacked with snowshoes; so, I need some pointers. Currently looking at the MSR brand or Tubbs.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
no snow shoes needed. just crampons and tall gaiters, and maybe some hiking poles.
virtualfrog
11-04-2006, 21:51
Can anybody w/ experience using the MSR Denali/Ascents offer input on those vs. the normal Tubbs-type showshoes for use in northern Vermont...do they work as nicely as they look like they would on slopes?
Got all that, and have used it for years. Crampons do not help when postholeing (i.e. stepping into, out of, and over three feet of snow; this sucks).
There are several good quality snowshoe brands on the market today. A couple have been mentioned. I bought 2 pairs of the ATLAS brand and have been satisfied with the quality and performance. Aluminun frames with neoprene webbing, ratchet type harness and toe/heel cleats...for those crusty/icy conditions. One pair is 2' by 8" which I use for packed snow conditions, the other pair are 2'6" by 9" which I use for heavy fresh snow .
I would recommend going with the smaller of the two as those are what I've used most and are most comfortable on a long trek. The brand being your choice.
Wanderingson
11-05-2006, 09:08
I was a winter mountian guide in Northern Japan. My shoe of preference for moderate terrain is the MSR Denali Classic. Not sure they produce them any more. The MSR Evo is also a pretty sweet ride. I bought my wife (she believes they are hers) a set of MSR Denali Ascents--these are great for steep terrain because of the built in televator.
I love my MSRs because of the lashing system. Very easy to put on, adjust, and take off--even with a gloved hand. The only drawback I have with the MSR design is the crunch (noise) factor due to the molded composite construction. The onboard crampons and traction bars are a wonder. Large boot holes accomodate any boot I have tried.
My vote is the MSR line--I have logged many miles on mine and love them
Can anybody w/ experience using the MSR Denali/Ascents offer input on those vs. the normal Tubbs-type showshoes for use in northern Vermont...do they work as nicely as they look like they would on slopes?
MSR's have a good reputation in Northern New England. Ask your question at Views from the Top.
BlackCloud
11-06-2006, 10:24
Things to consider when pruchasing snowshoes:
1. lashing system - easy to get in/out of while wearing mittens?
2. decking - neoprene decking sheds snow better then plastic decking when wet.
3. Weight - your weight * the snowshoes weight for when YOU are carrying them on your back
4. Crampon - if doing steep terrain, some shoes have better underneath cleats then others
5. How deckingis attached to frame - some expensive models' decking is lashed to frame with a continuous leather strap. Cut that strap through wear or in an accident (rock, torn tree branch, whatever) the entire decking will unravel and become unattached. Leather can become brittle (like everyhting else) when below 0.
6. I'm sure there's more.......
Since many of us like to support smaller "cottage" manufacturers, allow me to suggest that you also check out the Havlick Snowshoe Company (http://www.havlicksnowshoe.com/) in Mayfield, N.Y.
100% handmade in the USA, and reasonably priced.
I own two pairs of their shoes and am very pleased.
Footslogger
11-06-2006, 11:24
They're relatively expensive but I use the Tubbs brand snowshoe out here in Wyoming. They are made in Stowe VT. Have comfortable bindings that are easy to get in/out of. We do a considerable amount of shoeing out here and I've seen a lot of different brands and still swear by the Tubbs.
'Slogger
Good post by Blackcloud, lots to take into consideration. While you are comparing brands and prices, google ATLAS SNOWSHOE COMPANY made in USA. My 2' model are under 2lbs each. paid 125.00 10 years ago. If you want quiet, you may want to avoid the molded composites .
vipahman
11-06-2006, 13:21
What about the Northern Lites Brand. I'm quite light myself at 150lbs and UL winter camping weight of 25 lbs. Would the Elite model make sense for winter hiking/camping or is it best left for it's intended use of trail running.
what about these things, i don't know if there is another name for them but i've seen them called traction devices
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=81380&memberId=12500226
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=39159454&memberId=12500226
are they any good? i'm not going to try to climb everest, but just some winter hiking in nc/tn/southern va.
what about these things, i don't know if there is another name for them but i've seen them called traction devices
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=81380&memberId=12500226
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=39159454&memberId=12500226
are they any good? i'm not going to try to climb everest, but just some winter hiking in nc/tn/southern va.
Here in New England (including White Mountains) we think that YakTrax are fine for walking the dog, but not appropriate for mountaineering. That is, when the terrain is fairly level, then YakTrax work just fine. But, when there is ice covered climbs involved, then you want something more agressive.
LIhikers
11-07-2006, 17:16
For snow shoes the wife and I have Atlas's 1200 series (I think) We got them at a very good price a few years back. For the little we geet to use them they are just fine.
For traction devices I like Stabilicers www.32north.com/prod_stab.htm (http://www.32north.com/prod_stab.htm) but stay away from the "sport" version at all costs. The "sport" version came off my hiking boots every few steps, what a PITA.
Mr. Clean
11-08-2006, 05:05
I own two pair of Atlas 'shoes, 8x33's and 10x30's. I love 'em, but others around here insist on different kinds. When you go to look at shoes, check the bindings and crampons. Length of crampons, though, is directly proportional to cost. So, I don't know if you can rent snowshoes down there or not, but that's the advice I usually give to folk here in Maine. Try out some different ones and decide what you like and what works for you. Bindings are important, crampon length is important; if there's alot of really steep stuff, you'll need longer crampons. FWIW, I have found the Atlas 8x33's fine for most hiking, but they will tend to make me slide backwards on steep, steep slopes.
If you are only using them sporadically, possibly the cheaper MSR's will be fine for you. As for length, it all depends on what type of snow you anticipate being out in. In the Smokeys I'd assume you'll have heavy wet snow, so shorter shoes will work fine.
Northernlites.com
Along the AT you will not be snowshoeing on steep slopes that need agressive snowshoe crampons. Plus, they will be on your back most of the time! Northernlites (Backcountry Rescue Model) have worked well for me even when slogging alongside others with MSR Models. I did replace the binding system with just one straight piece of webbing. It was about a 5 minute project. NB I live in New England.
Toolshed
11-29-2006, 20:40
I have been using my Sherpa with Tucker Bindings for the last 20 some years in the Daks, Greens and Whites, but for just shucking along the AT, I would be much more apt to go with the MSR Evos due to the lightness of the shoe. they are loud, though.
I would go with a smaller shoe ~25" (unless you and your gear are well over 225#), since much of the snow is wetter and packs easier. The smaller shoes enable easier walking than the 30" or 36" shoes.
I have used Yaktrax/Stabilicers and insteps over the years in the Daks and Whites in early and late season climbs. Yaks & Stabs are great when 10 points are overkill. Especially in November and April when the trails are packed and slightly icy due to freeze-thaw.
But I agree about postholing. Odds are you will pull a groin muscle if you end up postholing through 2' of snow for more than a few hours.
bigcranky
11-29-2006, 22:36
Somebody mentioned the MSR Denali Classic snowshoes. I was wandering through Campmor's web site and found them on sale:
http://tinyurl.com/yhp6l2
MedicineMan
11-30-2006, 07:56
http://northernlites.com/elite.php
we had 3 miles of 2.5-3 feet of snow...they are light enough to not regret carrying them if you fear a big dump or know that the higher elavations have but the lower elavations dont....I'm 15 pounds over their stated load capacity but it wasn't a problem for them or me.
Cookerhiker
01-07-2008, 20:24
Getting ready to finally buy my first snowshoes, I'm resurrecting this old thread. There's lots of good info here but does anyone have any other perspectives? Thanks.
snowsurfer
01-08-2008, 16:25
In northern Vermont the msr's won't keep you afloat as well as the full sized tubbs. The bigger the shoe the better you stay ontop of the deep stuff. MSR's are good for lighter weight people and and a harder more packed snow.
Jim Adams
01-08-2008, 19:22
can't go wrong with Tubbs or Atlas but I prefer the Tubbs.
geek
NorthCountryWoods
01-14-2008, 07:29
can't go wrong with Tubbs or Atlas but I prefer the Tubbs.
geek
x2. I have Atlas, my wife has Tubbs. Hers are newer and have better bindings and side crampons than mine, but think the newer Atlas have them too. They are best for an actual snowshoe trip in deep snow.
The MSR plastic ones are lighter and better for occasional use while backpacking or when they spend most of the time on your pack, but they don't float as well.
fiddlehead
01-14-2008, 08:05
I carried the MSR Denali's for probably about 300 miles. Used them less than 5 miles.
UNless it's deep fresh snow, or after 3 pm when the sun has melted through the deep stuff that you can't walk on top, i carried them on my back.
Even did a 20,000' peak in the himalayas in mostly all snow from 15,000' up and didn't even think about snow shoes. Wore my running shoes with super gaiters, an extra pair of fleece socks in the pack and an ice ax.
Had em available on my winter hike of the AT in 2001/2002 (van supported trip) but never used them (did later on the trails out west a little bit but wouldn't carry them again)
Sold em 2 years ago. If i lived out west near the rockies or sierras, i probably would've kept em.
Getting ready to finally buy my first snowshoes, I'm resurrecting this old thread. There's lots of good info here but does anyone have any other perspectives? Thanks.
Another bump.
What did you wish that you had done differently or looked for in your 1st pair?
I am actually considering them. I have several pair of ancient pickrel shoes, so I am 40 years behind.
What do I want to avoid in the new, light snowshoes?
I am leery of aluminum cleats, is this valid?
What not to do is more functional for me.
Anyone vouching for Dion?
Thanks.
I have some field experience, mostly local here in Michigan, so not a lot of concern for steep terrain. I use Sherpa Mountaineering snowshoes, but they are out of business. The things I like about them:
- Large enough to carry me and a loaded pack
- Easy binding system
- Decking is laced on - this makes field repairs easy as opposed to decking that is rivited on. Plus the lacing adds to the traction in all directions.
- No spring-type bindings. I find the bindings that spring the tail of the shoes up, to make backing up easier also flip snow onto the backs of your legs when you start moving out.
What I don't like about them:
- bigger than needed when not backpacking (if I weren't so cheap, I'd just buy another pair of smaller shoes)
- relatively heavy compared to some others
- can't think of anything else I don't like
I have tried MSR shoes a couple of times. My biggest complaint about them is how noisy they are, particularly in cold, crunchy snow. The plasticy (is that a word?) sound with each step annoys me.
I'm no expert, so take my opinions for what they're worth. I just offer them to point out some considerations in making your own selections.
What do I want to avoid in the new, light snowshoes?
I am leery of aluminum cleats, is this valid?
Anyone vouching for Dion?
Thanks.
Avoid plastic....noisy
alum. is good, invalid concern IMO
Dion?
Try some out if you can,
Lots to choose from:
http://www.trailspace.com/gear/snowshoes/?sort=highest-rated
I use the tubbs out in here in Wa and Ak. They work great for me on steep and uneven terrian. They can be a pain to get out of. I use my oppisite hand to unbuckle. i see al ot of msr and Atlas also.. but, Tubbs seem more durable. Atlas has great custonmer service though.. excellent point about size of YOU and size of shoe you want... also, what kinda snow you are gonna be moving thru.
http://www.dionsnowshoes.com/
I tripped across these. I was searching cleat types. I was worried about AL cleats and ice/granite.
Thanks for the opinions and link.
There are many choices, but they can be broken down into three basic categories:
Racing Snowshoes - Very light, not much of a crampon for a grip. Meant more for snowshoe runs on well packed trails. Most people into snowshoeing from a hiking background can probably skip this type
Day Use snowshoes - Generally ~8"x25" (or similar size +/-) and holds up to 200 lbs of person AND gear. The most useful, all around size. Good for all but the deepest "fluffy" powder and with the crampons found on most of these, can go up all but the steepest slopes
Backpacking Snowshoes - About 9"x30" +/- and can hold up to 250 lbs of person AND gear. If you winter backpack, are a heavier person or going into very deep "fluffy" powder, you may need to use these snowshoes. There are even larger ones available. These snowshoes are typically much heavier and awkward to use then the day use ones
Note: The weight bearing load is approx. It depends upon the manufacturer and the type of snow conditions. Always read the suggested weight max that is usually listed with most snowshoes.
Oh yeah..what about wooden versus aluminum ones? There is lovely debate about this issue (odd....but true) (http://camping.lovetoknow.com/Wooden_Snowshoe) For the average person, though, the modern aluminum snowshoes are easier to maintain, lighter and less expensive than the older wooden ones. YMMV.
If you live in an area where you can use snowshoes regularly (northern New England, the PNW, the Rockies, etc.) there is a good chance many of the outdoor stores will rent snowshoes for a reasonable fee. Good way to try out different varieties and types without plunking down a lot of money. Many of these places that also rent snowshoes will often apply part (or all) of the rental fees towards a pair for purchase as well.
My pair of wooden Pickerel snowshoes adorn my balcony wall. Good for flat country mostly.
First i've heard of Dion snowshoes but haven't shopped around for any in a decade .
Custom shoes for a custom price.
Most of the snowshoe talk out there puts people on 24-25" snowshoes for the majority of hiking.
I rarely use my 9x30s except for the occasional western powder dump like we had recently.
Today, after the snow has settled a few days , took the 8x24s out and they were adequate . At 4 lbs a pair , they be my favorites.
Most of the snowshoe talk out there puts people on 24-25" snowshoes for the majority of hiking.
Indeed. If I had to own one pair of snowshoes, the 8x25 are the ones to go for. Very useful for all types of snow and conditions. If you don't go terribly heavy (and you are not terribly heavy yourself! :D), could easily work well for an overnighter on packed trail or non-deep and fluffy powder.
I do own 9x30s, but that is from when I use to winter backpack more in CO...
If you are really heavy and take EVERYTHING including he kitchen sink, try these puppies.
http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___38064
Only 6+ lbs a pair. :O
I have Atlas 1033 shoes. They are, not surprisingly, 10x33 inches. They float very well, given that I average around 215 lbs. and don't usually go ultralight in the winter in the mountains (low elevation AT is an exception). They are built like tanks but are a bit on the heavy side (I got the "Expedition" I believe -can't remember exactly) model with heavier gauge aluminum and stainless cleat. The shoe also has a heel cleat - very helpful on icy downhills. The cleat and binding are mounted on a wide, thick neoprene strap which goes across the shoe. The deck is neoprene. The binding has been redesigned since I got mine. I find that my binding is a bit difficult to tighten with gloves on.
They are bombproof, but heavy - float well, but pick up snow (mostly in powder conditions) on large decking surface which you have to pick up with the next step or kick off. The directional control is superb. The bindings rotate on the strap so the tail does not drag excessively or "wag"). This makes them fairly easy to lift over downed trees. I would recommend the next size down due to the easier maneuverability, lower snow load carried on the decking, and ability to place the shoe in smaller spots between rocks and other obstacles - I would have bought the next size down even with my higher than average weight.
My AL concern was in regard to the durability of the crampon.
How critical are side "crampon ridges" or side "bars," or rear crampons?
OK. Plastic is noisy. What other materials are crunchy, squeaky, noisy?
The rental idea is a good one. Probably only have the LL Bean options around here. I will check a local store, but they are geared up for visitors that will buy stuff like this on a whim, to be able to say they went shoeing in Acadia.
Can't blame them, I might too, if I were in that tax bracket.
Blue Jay
12-27-2008, 08:25
I have Atlas 1033 shoes. They are, not surprisingly, 10x33 inches. They float very well, given that I average around 215 lbs. and don't usually go ultralight in the winter in the mountains (low elevation AT is an exception). They are built like tanks but are a bit on the heavy side (I got the "Expedition" I believe -can't remember exactly) model with heavier gauge aluminum and stainless cleat. The shoe also has a heel cleat - very helpful on icy downhills. The cleat and binding are mounted on a wide, thick neoprene strap which goes across the shoe. The deck is neoprene. The binding has been redesigned since I got mine. I find that my binding is a bit difficult to tighten with gloves on.
They are bombproof, but heavy - float well, but pick up snow (mostly in powder conditions) on large decking surface which you have to pick up with the next step or kick off. The directional control is superb. The bindings rotate on the strap so the tail does not drag excessively or "wag"). This makes them fairly easy to lift over downed trees. I would recommend the next size down due to the easier maneuverability, lower snow load carried on the decking, and ability to place the shoe in smaller spots between rocks and other obstacles - I would have bought the next size down even with my higher than average weight.
I was going to write but this guy nailed it first.
There has been some chatter over @ VFTT (http://www.viewsfromthetop.com/index-vftt.html) on snowshoes.
Don't know if you've seen it MH
Q&A new england forum
1st page
title: snowshoe advice, FWIW
BTW, Have had no probs with my alum cleats, beat em pretty good on rock and ice.
Most shoes today have a flexible neoprene type webbing, not noisy like plastic.