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I've got about 500 AT miles under my boots. My hiking buddy keeps talking about going out west for a week sometime this year. I'm addicted to the AT, but I've never been out west, so I'm open to expanding my horizons a little bit. The question is: If you had one week to hike, and could do that week on the CDT, what hike would you do? We handle 10-15 southern AT miles a day easily. What do we want to see? High tops, wildlife, wilderness (the good stuff). Sightseeing trail towns is not an important factor. Thanks!
I've got about 500 AT miles under my boots. My hiking buddy keeps talking about going out west for a week sometime this year. I'm addicted to the AT, but I've never been out west, so I'm open to expanding my horizons a little bit. The question is: If you had one week to hike, and could do that week on the CDT, what hike would you do? We handle 10-15 southern AT miles a day easily. What do we want to see? High tops, wildlife, wilderness (the good stuff). Sightseeing trail towns is not an important factor. Thanks!
If you only have a week, Glacier NP would probably be best. You're guaranteed to see what you're looking for. The only negative is that you need permits and they cost money, but it's well worth it.
http://www.nps.gov/glac/
eragon921
12-30-2007, 19:21
Depends on when you plan to hike. If it's late summer, DON'T do Montana, it's usually burning. If it's mid June to early August then you picked the perfect time for Glacier. The Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall Wilderness south of Glacier is also awesome.
The Gila Wilderness in NM is also an excellent choice, if you go durring the cooler time of the year. The Winds in Wyoming are also a perfect summer choice to rival the views in Glacier.
Seth "Osprey" Schumacher
AT 2007
CDT MT-WY 2006
Instead of the CDT, instead head out to the PCT. There isn't anywhere in the US that can best the Sierra Nevada. It blows away anything that I've seen on the CDT, and that includes Glacier and the Bob. Ok, so it rained or snowed on me the whole time I was in Glacier, and the Bob was a muddy swamp, so I may be biased.
But, the Sierra is really, really amazing. It is a large area with much to see and do. If you've got a week, think about places like the Thousand Island Lake (Ansel Adams) area (easy transport in and out) or, even better, the southern Sierra in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. The South Sierra sees less traffic that the northern parts.
See http://www.pierce.ctc.edu/faculty/cwillett/shr/index.html
for a trip that did down there.
Also, see any PCT hiker's trailjournal at http://www.trailjournals.com for their Sierra experience (starting around early-mid June).
Lastly, if you don't want to deal with any permits (other than trailhead sign in), consider coming up to Washington. Skip the Wonderland trail. Instead, jump on the PCT from Snoqualmie Pass (I-90) and hike through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness to Stevens Pass (US2). This is about 75 miles. You'll need a car shuttle to get back, but you can probably arrange that through the PCT-L.
Or, even better, head up to the Pasayten Wilderness (just south of Canada), where you can put together an unbelievable loop including the PCT and getting to scramble some peaks. The Pasayten is one of my favorite places in the state. Just make sure you don't head out until July to give the snow some time to melt.
ChinMusic
12-31-2007, 16:21
I did Glacier NP in mid August in 2007 and it was heaven, perfect temps, NO BUGS, and the views, oh the views.
Instead of the CDT, instead head out to the PCT. There isn't anywhere in the US that can best the Sierra Nevada. It blows away anything that I've seen on the CDT, and that includes Glacier and the Bob.
That wasn't the question and of course it's a matter of opinion.. I'd say the Winds are equal to the Sierras. Chris you didn't make it that far did you? ;)
The reason I suggested Glacier rather than the Winds is easier access and more wildlife. Not only is it drop jaw gorgeous, no where I've hiked beats Glacier for wildlife. It's incredible.
My son & I are planning ~3-4 nights in Glacier on the CDT ~2nd - 3rd week in June 08. We can avg 15+ mpd w/o too much effort. Where are the best trailheads for in and out? Do you have any leads on shuttles, or other advice? I presume a 20* bag & a tarp is adequate for that time of year?
Thanks,
Egads
If he's never been out west, seems like an appropriate thing to give him other options. I've got bad memories of Glacier, but good memories of the Sierra and Cascades!
I stopped at the southern edge of Yellowstone. But, I've hiked in the Winds before, spending a nice 4 days there before being driven out by a wild fire. They are pretty grand and the lack of permits helps a lot. Getting in and out of Elkhart Park is easy, but only if you have a car. I want to go climbing there very badly, but none of my usual partners can manage that amount of time off.
My son & I are planning ~3-4 nights in Glacier on the CDT ~2nd - 3rd week in June 08. We can avg 15+ mpd w/o too much effort. Where are the best trailheads for in and out? Do you have any leads on shuttles, or other advice? I presume a 20* bag & a tarp is adequate for that time of year?
Thanks,
Egads
Egads, I'd wait for the 3rd week, there'll be that much less snow. You're probably best starting at Two Medicine, where you can get your permits. Once you're there you can figure out the mileage and available space in the campsites that are open. It's better this, than getting a non refundable advanced reservation that cost an extra $30. If it's a good day, make sure to take the Dawson Pass alternative.
You'll be able to leave your car at Two Medicine and get a schedule shuttle bus back. I don't have my book in front of me but you should be able to make it to St Mary. If need be you could do the hike in reverse north to south.
Of course there are other hikes and since they have shuttles, it shouldn't be difficult to plan on the spot. The rangers will help.
The Winds are perhaps the most spectacular range in the American Rockies.
If you get off the CDT, you can spend A LOT of time there.
If you want something really off the beaten path and is extremely spectacular, then the Lawrence Basin is awesome.
The "trails" are hardly used and overgrown..but you are near the Continental Divide. Hardly anyone goes there. A true WILDERNESS experience.
The only bad side is that a permit is required to access the area and you can only access it from one place w/o a guide:
http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/171223/wind-river-range.html
It is expensive permit ($80 pp!), but so worth it..
The entire west side is managed by the Bridger-Teton National Forest (http://www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf).
A large portion of the range east of the Continental Divide is privately owned by the Wind River Indian Reservation (Shoshone and Arapaho tribes). The only Reservation trailhead accessible to the public without a native guide is at Saint Lawrence Basin. For peaks or approaches anywhere on the Reservation a fishing permit must first be obtained from the tribes. It can be purchased at various stores in Lander, Fort Washakie, Dubois or Riverton.
Fees are:
Resident Annual - $40.00
Resident 7 Day - $35.00
Resident Senior - $30.00
Resident Junior - $10.00
Non-Resident Annual - $80.00
Non-Resident 7 Day - $60.00
Non-Resident Senior - $55.00
Non-Resident Junior - $25.00
North and south of the Reservation the mountains east of the Continental Divide are managed by Shoshone National Forest (http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/districts/windriver.htm).
We summited one mountain that has a register from 1972!
Photos: http://www.pmags.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=36&g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=15627
The San Juans in Colorado are also spectacular, if a bit more popular...but also more accessible. Again, if you off the beaten path (Vallecito Valley comes to mind) you will not see as many people.
wilconow
01-02-2008, 12:47
Instead of the CDT, instead head out to the PCT. Th
Lastly, if you don't want to deal with any permits (other than trailhead sign in), consider coming up to Washington. Skip the Wonderland trail. Instead, jump on the PCT from Snoqualmie Pass (I-90) and hike through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness to Stevens Pass (US2). This is about 75 miles. You'll need a car shuttle to get back, but you can probably arrange that through the PCT-L.
Or, even better, head up to the Pasayten Wilderness (just south of Canada), where you can put together an unbelievable loop including the PCT and getting to scramble some peaks. The Pasayten is one of my favorite places in the state. Just make sure you don't head out until July to give the snow some time to melt.
Why skip the Wonderland? Because of the crowds and permits? Or just because it's just not as nice as the other areas in Washington you mention?
Why skip the Wonderland? Because of the crowds and permits? Or just because it's just not as nice as the other areas in Washington you mention?
Which leads to why skip the Goat Rocks Wilderness. They could get on near Trout Lake and hike to Whites Pass. It's about 75 miles, and fantastic, as seen in my avatar.
I've got bad memories of Glacier, but good memories of the Sierra and Cascades!
That's too bad, I have great memories of all the places I've hiked. :eek:
Spirit Walker
01-02-2008, 13:09
I can't think of a hike I've done that brings bad memories. Some hikes were harder than others, some more or less interesting, but all were good hikes. As long as I'm walking, I'm happy. I enjoyed the CDT much more than the PCT, but I don't regret the PCT. Parts of it I really enjoyed, just not as much as the CDT. But it's all good, if you're out on a trail, up in the mountains, wandering where you will.
As to the question - Glacier is incredibly beautiful, so are the San Juans, so are the Winds, so are the Beartooths, so is the Teton Wilderness, so are parts of Yellowstone, so are the Bitterroots, so is Mt. Zirkel and Holy Cross and Mt. Massive and . . .
Which leads to why skip the Goat Rocks Wilderness. They could get on near Trout Lake and hike to Whites Pass. It's about 75 miles, and fantastic, as seen in my avatar.
I second this. Goat Rocks are great and not too many people, due to limited day access. The next 60 miles north of White Pass was phenomenol too, specifically near Chinook Pass
Why skip the Wonderland? Because of the crowds and permits? Or just because it's just not as nice as the other areas in Washington you mention?
Well, it isn't nearly as scenic as other areas. There are long portions when you are in bland forest (well, bland after the first few miles). You have to deal with permits, which is a pain. The Rain of 2006 destroyed a lot of the trail that has yet to be fixed and part of the "trail" was (in 2007) rerouted along a road.
Which leads to why skip the Goat Rocks Wilderness. They could get on near Trout Lake and hike to Whites Pass. It's about 75 miles, and fantastic, as seen in my avatar.
Well, the good part of the Goat Rocks is pretty small in comparison. Unless you're climbing (and like crumbly rock), you'll exhaust the Goat Rocks pretty fast. If you start back at Cascade Locks to hike to the Goat Rocks, you'll have to deal with many miles of not super great land to get to a few hours of excellent hiking. It isn't easy to get on at other places, though Trout Lake is possible.
Besides, the best places to stay in the Goat Rocks have a camping ban on them. Why not go a bit further north, where you generally don't have those restrictions? And where you can walk for days and days in complete beauty? The Goat Rocks are a great weekend or day hiking spot, but I wouldn't try to spend ten days there.
That's too bad, I have great memories of all the places I've hiked. :eek:
Well, I was breaking up with my girlfriend at the time.
Well, the good part of the Goat Rocks is pretty small in comparison. Unless you're climbing (and like crumbly rock), you'll exhaust the Goat Rocks pretty fast. If you start back at Cascade Locks to hike to the Goat Rocks, you'll have to deal with many miles of not super great land to get to a few hours of excellent hiking. It isn't easy to get on at other places, though Trout Lake is possible.
Besides, the best places to stay in the Goat Rocks have a camping ban on them. Why not go a bit further north, where you generally don't have those restrictions? And where you can walk for days and days in complete beauty? The Goat Rocks are a great weekend or day hiking spot, but I wouldn't try to spend ten days there.
Agreed. I wouldn't recommend anyone starting at Cascade Locks. Thought the section between there and Trout Lake/Mt. Adams area was pretty mundane. Everything north of there is good though.
Glad to see you back around these parts Chris. Hope all is well
wilconow
01-02-2008, 15:51
Well, it isn't nearly as scenic as other areas. There are long portions when you are in bland forest (well, bland after the first few miles). You have to deal with permits, which is a pain. The Rain of 2006 destroyed a lot of the trail that has yet to be fixed and part of the "trail" was (in 2007) rerouted along a road.
Chris, Thanks for the info. I was originally learning towards the Wonderland, but with all the permits and stuff, I'm certainly exploring more options.
I've done some research on the Pasayten Wilderness, and this looks awesome. There are a couple books with loop descriptions; do you have any recommendations for a reference?
These are two books I saw:
Backpacking Washington - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0899974236/
Trekking Washington - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0898869048/
Thanks.
Glad to see you back around these parts Chris. Hope all is well
Yes indeed. Good to see you back. I saw your (Chris') posts on trailforums and wondered if you'd pop up here again.
Welcome back.
I've done some research on the Pasayten Wilderness, and this looks awesome. There are a couple books with loop descriptions; do you have any recommendations for a reference?
These are two books I saw:
Backpacking Washington - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0899974236/
Trekking Washington - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0898869048/
Thanks.
The Pasayten is amazing. Pretty much anything there is going to be good. The further east you go, the flatter and drier it gets. I haven't hiked the Trekking Washington route, but it looks good. It is pretty long, though, at more than 200 miles, and you'd have to do it without a resupply. Personally, I would start at Ross Lake and hike due north along the shore. Cut east over to the PCT and run it south a bit. Cut west at Holman Pass and return via Devils Dome. Plenty of good scrambling to be done in the area. The stretch south of Holman Pass on the PCT, to Windy Pass, is especially scenic, so you might want to incorporate a loop using the PCT from Rainy Pass (WA 20).
Glad to see you back around these parts Chris. Hope all is well
I've been mountaineering and climbing more than hiking for the last two years. I suspect I'll be out on a long trail this summer, at least after glacier season wraps up around here. Glad people remember me.
How dare someone say that the sierra's out beat the CDT??? What ever floats your boat right? I'm not saying that my climb in Denali wasn't like anything else I've experience. Trying to compare it to Mt. Vinson...what ever.
My friend, for a week trip you want to hike the Wind River Range. Yes, it is amazing! Start at Togette Pass, dude! You'll love it. There's this kat on youtube that has serveral vids of his hike of the CDT that you should check out. Make up your mind by what his camera sees, not by the opinions of the crowd.
cheers,
thanks 8kpeaks, and everybody else. Here's the hypothetical scenario that you're looking at... You have a great new friend that's done a fair bit of backpacking on the AT. He/she has never been out west to the CDT or PCT. They say, "Hey, let's go out for 5 or 6 days. I'll pay for everything. You just plan the hike. I want some good tent camping, no scrambling or brushbeating, and some knock-u-on-ur-can views." What would be your trip?
Spirit Walker
01-03-2008, 01:34
Glacier or the Winds or the area around Thousand Island Lake in CA
My friend, for a week trip you want to hike the Wind River Range. Yes, it is amazing! Start at Togette Pass, dude! You'll love it. There's this kat on youtube that has serveral vids of his hike of the CDT that you should check out. Make up your mind by what his camera sees, not by the opinions of the crowd.
Start at Togwotee Pass? That may be OK for a seasoned CDT hiker but it's not the easiest section trail to follow for a newbie. On the contrary, it's about the hardest section to follow on the entire trail.
And 8kPeaks, many of the people posting here have hiked the CDT atleast once, and probably give better advice than a youtube video. :rolleyes:
I'm going to add a few more reasons why I recommend Glacier. It's one the easiest hikes to arrange, the logistics are easier than most other sections of CDT. You can choose one of four ways to get there.
Bus to Kalispel or Whitefish, then shuttle or train to E Glacier.
Train to E Glacier.
Fly into Kalispel, shuttle to E Glacier.
Fly or bus to Helena and rent a car to E Glacier.Make Howser in E Glacier, is a Avis dealer, an owner at one of the motels, stores and restaurants and also a former AT hiker.
There's shuttles, several motels, and two hiker friendly hostels.
There's hikers.
It's Glacier NP!
thanks 8kpeaks, and everybody else. Here's the hypothetical scenario that you're looking at... You have a great new friend that's done a fair bit of backpacking on the AT. He/she has never been out west to the CDT or PCT. They say, "Hey, let's go out for 5 or 6 days. I'll pay for everything. You just plan the hike. I want some good tent camping, no scrambling or brushbeating, and some knock-u-on-ur-can views." What would be your trip?
Easy. Get yourself to Mammoth, CA (fly into Reno, CREST bus south; or drive your car). Take the shuttle bus into Reds Meadows/Devils Postpile. Hike the PCT north and hang around 1000 Island Lake for a few days exploring up some of the passes (no trees, easy walking). Then continue over Donahue Pass and down into Yosemite. To get back hitch from Tuolumne (in Yosemite) down to Lee Vining. Make sure to eat at the cafe in the Mobil station in town: It may have the best food anywhere near the entire PCT. From Lee Vining, catch the CREST back to Mammoth.
For a more scenic trip, but one requiring a longer shuttle. Hike the PCT in Washington from Snoqualmie Pass to Stevens Pass (I-90 to US2) or from Stevens Pass to Stehekin (US2 to the middle of nowhere without a road, you can catch a boat out). You can arrange a shuttle via the PCT-L.
The Winds would have lots of good loop options. One would be to come out of Elkhart Park and head straight for Titcomb Basin. Go out over Knapsack Col and loop back.
Easy. Get yourself to Mammoth, CA (fly into Reno, CREST bus south; or drive your car). Take the shuttle bus into Reds Meadows/Devils Postpile. Hike the PCT north and hang around 1000 Island Lake for a few days exploring up some of the passes (no trees, easy walking). Then continue over Donahue Pass and down into Yosemite. To get back hitch from Tuolumne (in Yosemite) down to Lee Vining. Make sure to eat at the cafe in the Mobil station in town: It may have the best food anywhere near the entire PCT. From Lee Vining, catch the CREST back to Mammoth.
For a more scenic trip, but one requiring a longer shuttle. Hike the PCT in Washington from Snoqualmie Pass to Stevens Pass (I-90 to US2) or from Stevens Pass to Stehekin (US2 to the middle of nowhere without a road, you can catch a boat out). You can arrange a shuttle via the PCT-L.
The Winds would have lots of good loop options. One would be to come out of Elkhart Park and head straight for Titcomb Basin. Go out over Knapsack Col and loop back.
If you decide on the Yosemite option, you can actually take a bus right from Tuolomne to Mammoth (YARTS?). I took it this summer from Mammoth to Tuolomne when I was sick and got dropped off right at the general store (PCT) for like 7 bucks I think.