View Full Version : Adjusting type leash?
desdemona
01-31-2008, 01:22
Hi,
YES I WALK WITH MY DOG ON A LEASH. There is no debate here supposedly.
Ok but the question I had is this. I see an advantage to a leash that would give you a really quick control of getting more leash really fast or a shorter leash fast. It wouldn't have to be instant.
The situation might be like this. I am going up a gorge, and have to get up there and help her get up a rock. I either put her up first or I go up first, but it might require that I would need a bit more leash. The opposite. We are going thru a tricky area full of nasty chollas (this is a cactus I am sure you don't actually deal with there-- but as i said I am a refugee here) but I am sure there are similar type situations.
Anyone know of a good product here? (I also think hands free is a good option to have.)
--des
mweinstone
01-31-2008, 01:31
your talking about being on belay with your dog. you need a static leash. not a dynamic one. the safty implications are far reaching and require a demontrated knowlage of climbing. or walking. use a static leash and save your dog and yourself the tangle. the lack of brakes and the foolishness of overeaching for control of a dog. 8 feet of sewn tubeular one ince webbing with no metle or buckle or collar. just a waterknot on a seperate collar leangth .and a carabiner handle. its my favorite and the most humane. tags are still worn with this system. in flee conditions, i stuff the collar with brewers yeast and fill a flea powder bottle with it too. its safer than flea stuff. and put it in the food!
warraghiyagey
01-31-2008, 01:31
http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/ad/dog.gifhttp://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/ad/whip.gif
gsingjane
01-31-2008, 08:48
You can take this FWIW... a good friend of mine is a professional dogwalker/pet care person, and I help her out with her "extra" clients pretty much every weekend. Neither of us care for the retractables, primarily because it makes it way too easy for the dog to surge off someplace after a critter, food or a scent. Depending on your size, and the dog's size, at the least this can result in a nasty jerk... at worst, I have had dogs dash into traffic before I can hit the button. I would think there would be many opportunities in the woods for dogs to dash off, and especially given the length of some of these leashes, you may not find that workable.
Jane in CT
Alligator
01-31-2008, 10:37
Jane, didn't your retractables lock? I don't have a dog anymore but I seem to remember being able to lock them.
I had 40 lb dog (about) and when I took her hiking I had a retractable leash. I liked that the slack didn't drag and get caught. Your pace and the dog's pace aren't always in synch.
Hi,
YES I WALK WITH MY DOG ON A LEASH. There is no debate here supposedly.
Ok but the question I had is this. I see an advantage to a leash that would give you a really quick control of getting more leash really fast or a shorter leash fast. It wouldn't have to be instant.
Anyone know of a good product here? (I also think hands free is a good option to have.)
--des
A quick check on google shows a lot of different hands-free leashes for dogs, depending on what style and price you want there are plenty of options. This site looked great, http://www.buddysys.com
I've never used the hands-free (my dog Romie is on a cheap nylon leash but always stays right by my side) but I remember seeing posts on here of hikers you have used them. Hopefully someone can give good recommendations.
On a side note, I lived in New Mexico for 5 yrs and hiked the Sandia Mts and used to run races in ABQ-- miss it a lot! The most beautiful blue skies and gorgeous sunsets in the world. I envy you.
Good luck with your dog and the leash.
your talking about being on belay with your dog. you need a static leash. not a dynamic one. the safty implications are far reaching and require a demontrated knowlage of climbing. or walking. use a static leash and save your dog and yourself the tangle. the lack of brakes and the foolishness of overeaching for control of a dog. 8 feet of sewn tubeular one ince webbing with no metle or buckle or collar. just a waterknot on a seperate collar leangth .and a carabiner handle. its my favorite and the most humane. tags are still worn with this system. in flee conditions, i stuff the collar with brewers yeast and fill a flea powder bottle with it too. its safer than flea stuff. and put it in the food!
mweinstone, do you have a link or pic of this type of leash? Or is this homemade? Sounds like something I'd like to try. And good tip on the brewers yeast, I've never heard of that. Thanks.
desdemona
01-31-2008, 16:47
your talking about being on belay with your dog. you need a static leash. not a dynamic one. the safty implications are far reaching and require a demontrated knowlage of climbing. or walking. use a static leash and save your dog and yourself the tangle. the lack of brakes and the foolishness of overeaching for control of a dog. 8 feet of sewn tubeular one ince webbing with no metle or buckle or collar. just a waterknot on a seperate collar leangth .and a carabiner handle. its my favorite and the most humane. tags are still worn with this system. in flee conditions, i stuff the collar with brewers yeast and fill a flea powder bottle with it too. its safer than flea stuff. and put it in the food!
Amen about the pictures!! This sounds very good but I don't have any kind of visual image in my head for it. (I am totally a visual person and can't do anything without a visual image. A nice photo posted here would be great!!)
BTW, it isn't technically belaying. But the idea of one climbing before the other is the thing. Or else the dog actually not climbing but being picked up (that's why the buddy--see below). This also is not really technical climbing. What's going on is basically scrambling on a rating system something from 1-3 with no serious exposures (I am not sure how familar you would be with rating-- but we are talking, use of hands part of the time--no exposures where a fall would be dangerous or life threatening). No equipment. But I still see your safety point for a non-flexible leash.
In clarification though, I wasn't really talking flexi. I would not use a flexi on a trail (and only do in the park and around the blocks near my house). I would not hike any kind of challenging trail (I have hiked easy trails alone) without a buddy. So basically I am talking about a leash that would help my buddy and i with the dog. He has an extension on his dog's leash, but I don't like that as it is kind of a permanent extension, not so good for the prickly pear. :-) (Actually Torie is MUCH better on the trail than his dog who pulls on the leash a lot, but he is a lot better handling the dogs!!)
BTW, Flexis DO lock. The lock is difficult to manuever for me, but some people find them acceptable. I don't care for them and feel that they are dangerous in a lot of situations. The thin flexible part of the leash can cause burns, supposedly even amputate a finger-- though I don't actually feel they are usually THAT dangerous. Torie is fine on a Flexi but only in familar situations. The locks on flexis jam at times and then don't unlock.
MY idea was a leash that would allow basically a standard mode (say 6 feet), a short mode (say 2-3 feet) and a long mode (say 8-10 feet). That the leash could move easily-- I didn't mean really flexi sense from mode to mode. For instance, I have seen a leash with two modes. It has a handle down on a 6 foot leash right towards the head. You can grab the handle at times. I suppose you could have a three handled leash, but all the handles might be difficult. I do think the stable leash makes sense though I am not sure I would like to hold a carbiner, but I think that maybe mweinstone is thinking this is more serious climbing than it is. But I still like the idea and think it has great merit.
Yes, to answer Tazie. I am crazy about NM! The Sandias are wonderful. There are some beautiful climbs right within city limits kind of. The goat heads, not so much. ;)
Sorry for the length. But there are a lot of points to this very good discussion!!
--des
wrongway_08
01-31-2008, 17:52
Dont use an adjustable leash, Most important is that a adjustable leash teaches the dog that there are no set bounderiers. Plus they are not as strong as a regular leash.
Use a 6 or 8 foot fixed leash, the dog will have plenty of room to explore and still has his set bounderiers (sp?). When you decide on a leash, keep that as his normal leash.
desdemona
02-01-2008, 00:31
Dont use an adjustable leash, Most important is that a adjustable leash teaches the dog that there are no set bounderiers. Plus they are not as strong as a regular leash.
Use a 6 or 8 foot fixed leash, the dog will have plenty of room to explore and still has his set bounderiers (sp?). When you decide on a leash, keep that as his normal leash.
I would never use a Flexi on a trail. I love the flexi for walks/runs in the neighborhood as she gets double the exercise she might ordinarily get. I don't agree with all the Caesar's way type stuff. I'm a clicker trainer.
--des
Around the city I use a 4 ft leash, but when hiking I've tried a couple other types...
My first go was with a flexi type leash. They do work great in general, and do lock... I did not like it because i
1) t's less comfortable to carry on long hikes than a soft nylon leash
Around the city I use a 4 ft leash, but when hiking I've tried a couple other types...
I'll mention some leashes below, but when I encounter a tough rock or climb, I decide what order we're going to go up... and then this is the one time I'll let her off leash. She has a good stay, and while her recall isn't perfect I don't like either one of us to be restricted by the leash in anyway if it's going to make climbing up something more risky.
My first go was with a flexi type leash. They do work great in general, and do lock... I did not like it because i
1) A flexi type leash is less comfortable to carry on long hikes than a soft nylon leash.
2) Sometimes I want to tie my dog to a tree for a minute while I do something, and a flexi rips easily if I do this and the dog pulls even a little.
3) If you accidentally drop the flexi, it retracts onto your dogs back so there's no second chance to grab at it if your dog is too distracted to come when called.
Now I use a 16 ft Ruffwear elastic leash. It is made from fairly strong tubular webbing so can be used to tie my dog up as needed. It has a plastic clip to wrap around your waste for hands free walking... but I only use this feature to clip the dog around a tree.
Why I like it:
1) Soft and comfortable to hold on to.
2) The elastic feature prevents all 16 ft of leash from dragging everywhere making it slightly easier to manage (nothing as effective as the flexi though in this area)
3) Strong enough to tie the dog up.
I like the ruffwear better than anything else I've found, but here's what I don't like:
1) The clip from the leash to the dog collar broke off... I replaced it with a keychain caribiner now, but I was disappointed in the shotty workmanship on the original clip.
2) I have to manage quite a bit of leash to keep off the ground... it's second nature once you get used to it and not as inconvenient as it sounds... but if there was something better I'd check it out.
mweinstone
02-01-2008, 14:43
she was a lab i got to walk alot but moved to california. her leash allways got remarks. its light and strong and has a loop for tags . the waterknot or ringbend is its magic. the biner is only on with a half hitch. the webbing has her name and address on it. actually, two men on a rope is the technical name for dogwalking. but its belaying on the trails steeper slopes.
mweinstone
02-01-2008, 14:56
the biner goes to the dog and a proper loop for wrist is made with a knot of your choosing. no! dont clip, tie or otherwise leave dog outside store unattended. i hate that. dont know why. cant find a logical reason not to but i hate it all the same. allthough i do enjoy petting the dogs abbandoned by others to the storecurb.
pic of garys dog pepper who has about two thrus.pepper didnt carry his pack on this trip me and gary took to wind gap cause it was during the recall and he didnt have dogfood with him for a month. pepper ate people food that month. better sick than dead.it was sad. he had heartburn and we would have to not feed him for a day or two, going back to risking poisoned food from the stores. then more people food and mildheartburn. pepper is lucky to have such an owner as gary.
cowboy nichols
02-01-2008, 15:00
I carry two leashes on the trail. One is a long line I also use this for training when hiking and wanting close contact, I use a 10 ft. lead. both can be attach to the side of my backpack. I also teach a follow comand an off sit comand and sit stay. I'm training a young dog now and the woods trail we walk is also a bike trail so teaching her to move off the trail and to sit works well and will work on trails like the AT when meeting or having other hikers pass. My Ger. shep had this down pat, she would move off and sit long before I even knew anyone was near . Hope you have a great hike
Wise Old Owl
02-01-2008, 16:18
Dynamic stretch leash
http://www.stretchleash.com/pages/products.html
This has boundries! as the dog gets too far the tug increases.
mweinstone
02-01-2008, 16:32
i took the previous poster to mean more than phisical boundrys. i think he ment mental boundrys. the dog may not be able to go further than the leash, and the person may be in control of a lock, but it is a far greater level of mental control that tells the dog WHEN to move. not just how far.
desdemona
02-02-2008, 03:48
she was a lab i got to walk alot but moved to california. her leash allways got remarks. its light and strong and has a loop for tags . the waterknot or ringbend is its magic. the biner is only on with a half hitch. the webbing has her name and address on it. actually, two men on a rope is the technical name for dogwalking. but its belaying on the trails steeper slopes.
I would have to try and figure out the picture-- but it looks like a great idea. You seem to have some climber skills, etc. The climbing I do is strictly amateur stuff and I have no skills. (Just do stuff I feel safe doing and not exceed that.)
I also think the Ruff wear--too bad re: the shoddy clip-- and bungie leash have merit. I like the ruff wear having give but also having a "control handle" and being able to attach to a waist or a tree. I don't think any of us are advocating tie-outs with the person not around.
I understand the concept of "boundaries" but I think it is a rather old-school dog training concept. OTOH, there are times when some of the old school concepts are useful.
--des
superman
02-02-2008, 09:06
I have used a standard non-adjusting leash on Winter all her life. The leash is 10' long. I've never needed more than that. Winter is a white German Shepard and learned right away to not pull on the leash. Actually, all I have to do is point to where I want her to be and she goes there. She will walk at the side of my left leg or maintain a ten-foot lead with no leash on as I indicate to her. I still carry the leash and even use it some times. These days the leash is only used for the comfort of non-dog people.
shelterbuilder
02-02-2008, 16:39
I've never liked flexi-leashes for one reason - I like to put my wrist through the leashes' loop, and I can't do that with a flexi. When we walk, I put my wrist through the loop and hold the flat part of the 6 foot leash in my hand. If I want the dog closer to me, I just short up on the amount of leash running to the dog (and let a larger amount dangle between my hand and wrist); if there's an obstacle that the dog has to jump over and then wait for me to get past, I can let all of the leash out (so that neither of us is being jerked and pulled). And with my wrist through the loop, if for any reason the dog pulls the leash out of my hand, the loop is caught around my wrist and he still can't get away.
I also have 'biner-type hardware attached to the loop so that I can easily tether off to trees or poles. And for "in-camp", I made a 15 foot lead with a clip on one end and no loop on the other - this is just for tying to a tree in the evening while I'm doing camp chores. (The dog and I are tethered together at night with a leash around my wrist.)
Wise Old Owl
02-04-2008, 01:29
[quote=shelterbuilder;521501]I've never liked flexi-leashes for one reason - I like to put my wrist through the leashes' loop, and I can't do that with a flexi. When we walk, I put my wrist through the loop and hold the flat part of the 6 foot leash in my hand. If I want the dog closer to me, I just short up on the amount of leash running to the dog (and let a larger amount dangle between my hand and wrist); if there's an obstacle that the dog has to jump over and then wait for me to get past, I can let all of the leash out (so that neither of us is being jerked and pulled). And with my wrist through the loop, if for any reason the dog pulls the leash out of my hand, the loop is caught around my wrist and he still can't get away.
I also have 'biner-type hardware attached to the loop [quote]
Ok that is what I do to, (I have several leashes) Some dogs respond better to that, The retractable is heavy for long distance hiking and bulky as well. It can get in the way of hiking poles and the dog gets tangled around dog unidentifiable objects. I went back and thought about the original post at the top of the thread and realized that the best answer is not a leash at all, perhaps you might be more comfortable when scrambling with a harness and a codura handle.
see this picture for an idea, I am not recommending it, there are better systems out there, just look at the picture.
http://www.amazon.com/Mountainsmith-Dog-Pack-Small-Backpack/dp/B0007KJL94
Dog trainers never use retractables. SAR never uses retractables. They are unreliable and in fact dangerous. I have seen a photo of the end of a fingered amputated by the cord of a retractable. Complete control of your dog is not possible with a retractable.
If your dog is trained, take it off leash for obstacles and then hook her back up.
JUST MHO,
Frau (Lois)
I meant to add that you should use a 3/8 or 1/2 inch leather lead, 6 ft. long with split and twisted ends.
Frau
mweinstone
02-04-2008, 10:21
in life, there will be dogs.
desdemona
02-04-2008, 15:30
I might think about getting a slightly longer leash (i.e. 8-10 feet) with a small handle near the head for control should she get into some situation (i.e cacti) when that might be useful. I also like the bungies, but I haven't seen one with an attachment to the belt (i.e. waist leash).
MWeinstone?
I sure like the idea with the carbiner, but I tried to copy the file to take a little better look and it was tiny. (I gather there what is basically a nylon leash. You cut it up (or use a collar of similar material. The collar has a twisty knot (ring bend) and the leash just has a carbiner at one end. I don't think I would want to hold a carbiner, but it would work well attached to something. How long is the leash part??
I would not use a retractable on a hike. Never never.
I don't take Torie off leash. She is pretty good now, but has had a history of running away predating when I got her (she was a rescue). Times I have dropped the leash, she stood still... but I still don't quite trust that this problem is over. (We worked on recall for a few years.)
--des
shelterbuilder
02-04-2008, 20:58
I might think about getting a slightly longer leash (i.e. 8-10 feet) with a small handle near the head for control should she get into some situation (i.e cacti) when that might be useful. I also like the bungies, but I haven't seen one with an attachment to the belt (i.e. waist leash).
MWeinstone?
I sure like the idea with the carbiner, but I tried to copy the file to take a little better look and it was tiny. (I gather there what is basically a nylon leash. You cut it up (or use a collar of similar material. The collar has a twisty knot (ring bend) and the leash just has a carbiner at one end. I don't think I would want to hold a carbiner, but it would work well attached to something. How long is the leash part??
I would not use a retractable on a hike. Never never.
I don't take Torie off leash. She is pretty good now, but has had a history of running away predating when I got her (she was a rescue). Times I have dropped the leash, she stood still... but I still don't quite trust that this problem is over. (We worked on recall for a few years.)
--des
If you like the idea of "totally hands-free", look into the possibility of buying a "ski-joring rig". While the people-harness may be overkill for your purposes, the line that runs from the harness to the dog might work for you. Check http://www.sleddogcentral.com - there's a section devoted entirely to skijoring.
desdemona
02-05-2008, 00:39
Thanks for the hands free ideas but I think not. I also don't like the harness only as I don't mostly scramble. This weekend, I did have her new Ruff Wear Approach 2 backpack. I really liked the handle. It was so easy to pick her up and set her somewhere, and she also liked it better. She dislikes being picked up generally but this was just so easy. I may keep it nearly empty, and just use it for this purpose.
If it's a more strenuous scramble, I'm just not taking her. It's too hard to keep both of us safe. But most of my trips involve lifting her over something.
I doubt a sled dog rig is going to fit on a Corgi. :-)
--des
I have a wide variety of leashes. For extra length and hands free I combine 2: the 6 ft. leather AND a working dog lead that has clips on both ends, and numerous D-rings down the length of the lead (it is at least 3/4 inch wide). I can fasten it around my waist or sling it over a shoulder OR fasten it close to one end for a more traditional leash grip.
If you dog never pulls on the lead nylon may do, but I have had a nylon lead burn my hand when yanked by my dogs. They range from 70-90 lbs though. Yours might not take such a toll on you;) .
Frau
desdemona
02-06-2008, 10:34
I have a wide variety of leashes. For extra length and hands free I combine 2: the 6 ft. leather AND a working dog lead that has clips on both ends, and numerous D-rings down the length of the lead (it is at least 3/4 inch wide). I can fasten it around my waist or sling it over a shoulder OR fasten it close to one end for a more traditional leash grip.
If you dog never pulls on the lead nylon may do, but I have had a nylon lead burn my hand when yanked by my dogs. They range from 70-90 lbs though. Yours might not take such a toll on you;) .
Frau
This is a very good idea with some flexibility of use in it! I don't care for nylon but the leather (or even cotton leash attached has merit).
But what are D rings anyway?
--des
Alligator
02-06-2008, 10:38
...
But what are D rings anyway?
--desMetal rings that are shaped like the letter D.
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:7Wjb3hC0WGB_YM:http://img.alibaba.com/photo/50266678/D_Ring.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://img.alibaba.com/photo/50266678/D_Ring.jpg&imgrefurl=http://fangyuanbutton.en.alibaba.com/product/50058793/50266678/D_Rings/D_Ring.html&h=360&w=360&sz=30&hl=en&start=4&um=1&tbnid=7Wjb3hC0WGB_YM:&tbnh=121&tbnw=121&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dd-ring%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN)
LIhikers
02-06-2008, 12:10
My wife and I have been hiking with our 80 pound shephard for years and using a flexi-lead ( www.flexiusa.com (http://www.flexiusa.com) )with no problems. It give you the choice of having your dog on a fixed lead or on a retractable one by how you set the locking mechanism. My wife puts the handle on her belt and then still has both hands free. Of course it helps that the dog is trained to voice commands.
desdemona
02-06-2008, 23:56
Metal rings that are shaped like the letter D.
Duh, but at least you answered the question!!
How do you attach these. I really like this idea!! I'd like to take a 12 foot lead and attach one so it would be a hands free, take another for a longer leash (with hands) and another for regular and yet another for very close in.
This looks like a great workable idea, and easy to diy.
--des
The leather lead with the D-rings can be found at PetSmart still, I believe. The ends of the lead have spring snaps andd can be fastend anywhere the 4 D rings are located up and down the lead.
The unoccupied snap on the other end can be used to snap into the 'handle' end (loop end) of the slim leash. You end up with your 6 or 8 feet, and them several feet on the D-ring lead. Enough leash for thge dog to get infront of you, OR get tangled around most any obstacle;)
Frau
desdemona
02-08-2008, 00:18
The leather lead with the D-rings can be found at PetSmart still, I believe. The ends of the lead have spring snaps andd can be fastend anywhere the 4 D rings are located up and down the lead.
The unoccupied snap on the other end can be used to snap into the 'handle' end (loop end) of the slim leash. You end up with your 6 or 8 feet, and them several feet on the D-ring lead. Enough leash for thge dog to get infront of you, OR get tangled around most any obstacle;)
Frau
Thanks! Torie and I will go take a look.
--des