View Full Version : Back from the Smokies
I just got back tonight from hiking the Smokies. I went into Davenport Gap Monday morning at 8:00 AM and walked over Fontana Dam this morning (Friday) at 10:38 AM.
The trip was wild weather wise. Monday, the sun was out but there was still 4"-12" of snow to slog through. It poured down rain/sleet all day Tuesday and the trail was literally a running creek in long stretches and long sheets of ice covering the rocks making walking treacherous. I fell 4 or 5 times. Ouch... 6 other people who started at Davenport Gap bailed out at Newfound Gap, one guy had to be brought out by the rangers (don't know the details about that) and I saw one guy who sprained his ankle badly - looked like a baseball. That really sucked. Today it sleeted and rained on me as I walked the last 10 miles out from Mollies Ridge shelter.
Speaking of shelters, because the weather no one was wherer they were supposed to be and the night it poured down rain there were 14 of us in Pecks Shelter which has a limit of 12, the roof leaked and the floor was a mud pit. Bad night....
Overall, it was a great hike and had some high points but having to stay at a shelter isn't my cup of tea though the night it rained so bad I would have anyway. The other nights I would have rather tented.
Chaco Taco
03-08-2008, 09:56
sounds like you had fun:sun
as you know 10-K I was out there too headed Northbound. I've never seen a trail serve as a funnel for water and ice before. The conditions heading down Clingman's was unreal. Icewater pouring like a river over icy rocks. I took a couple spills as well and took a real bad one and hit my hip on a rock. I was limping all day Wednesday and had to hitch into Gatlinburg to rest and take some ibuprofren. Crazy conditions, but an absolutely memorable hike.
As far as the shelters go, I never had any problems. There were only a couple people heading Northbound and every one I know bailed at Newfound.
Max Power
03-12-2008, 20:55
The worser the conditions, the better the memories.
KevinAce
03-13-2008, 10:22
Wow and I thought I had it bad with a little rain at Mount Rogers! We were debating Smokies vs MR and had to go with MR because the shelters were all booked up in the Smokies. The trails were doubling as creeks in VA as well...but no ice & snow thank goodness.
Get a chance to snap any pictures?
Tipi Walter
03-13-2008, 10:38
Glad to hear about yourn trip, sounds like you got to see some of Miss Nature's best condtions. Do you think crampons would've helped?
I went out on a short 5 day backpacking trip on March 6 and ran into that winter snowstorm a few days later but it was nothing like what you saw in the Smokies.
I wonder what the Rangers must think of all those Wheeled Tourists and newbs they have to extract on a regular basis? I bet they look forward to the end of winter.
skinny minnie
03-13-2008, 12:24
I just got back tonight from hiking the Smokies. I went into Davenport Gap Monday morning at 8:00 AM and walked over Fontana Dam this morning (Friday) at 10:38 AM.
The trip was wild weather wise. Monday, the sun was out but there was still 4"-12" of snow to slog through. It poured down rain/sleet all day Tuesday and the trail was literally a running creek in long stretches and long sheets of ice covering the rocks making walking treacherous. I fell 4 or 5 times. Ouch... 6 other people who started at Davenport Gap bailed out at Newfound Gap, one guy had to be brought out by the rangers (don't know the details about that) and I saw one guy who sprained his ankle badly - looked like a baseball. That really sucked. Today it sleeted and rained on me as I walked the last 10 miles out from Mollies Ridge shelter.
Speaking of shelters, because the weather no one was wherer they were supposed to be and the night it poured down rain there were 14 of us in Pecks Shelter which has a limit of 12, the roof leaked and the floor was a mud pit. Bad night....
Overall, it was a great hike and had some high points but having to stay at a shelter isn't my cup of tea though the night it rained so bad I would have anyway. The other nights I would have rather tented.
Did you meet a thru-hiker from MA named Andy? I talked to him on Sunday night for the first time and he was at Davenport Gap. And when I asked how miserable the weather had been lately his response was "There's been a few nice days." Sounds like that is looking on the bright side of things! Sheesh.
nctalley
03-13-2008, 13:03
Hi 10-K....sounds like quite an interesting hike considering the conditions. I certainly hope you have drier days ahead!
I have a questions about hiking Davenport Gap heading North. I'll be making that trek in May for about a month with a dog and my brother, who isn't that skilled of a hiker, though he will be doing some training from now until then, and I'm wondering (aside from the flooding issue) how easy / difficult the trail is. Does it seem dog friendly, as far as not having to climb? Does it seem as if an intermediate hiker could do this? Thanks in advance for your reply! I haven't hiked that area and would like a little feedback on it before I head into it.
I was at Icewater Springs shelter on Friday the 7th. Unbelievable rain from about 7:30pm to 5 or 6am. Then snow from then on. Newfound Gap was like a wind tunnel. Blizzard like weather..crazy.
Nctalley: Are you talking about hiking the Smokies? B/c dogs are not allowed on trails in the smokies.
nctalley
03-13-2008, 19:46
I'm actually talking about starting just outside of the Smokies at Davenport Gap. I've heard about the no dog rule and was planning for that. Thanks though ~ better to hear the rules too many times than to not know them at all! Any insight on the terrain from DG heading North?
jeremiah j
03-13-2008, 20:02
Hiked it with my dog from davenport to irwin. Terrain wise no problem for a dog,just the normal considerations of people,heat, and water.
Hi 10-K....sounds like quite an interesting hike considering the conditions. I certainly hope you have drier days ahead!
I have a questions about hiking Davenport Gap heading North. I'll be making that trek in May for about a month with a dog and my brother, who isn't that skilled of a hiker, though he will be doing some training from now until then, and I'm wondering (aside from the flooding issue) how easy / difficult the trail is. Does it seem dog friendly, as far as not having to climb? Does it seem as if an intermediate hiker could do this? Thanks in advance for your reply! I haven't hiked that area and would like a little feedback on it before I head into it.
The actual trail through the Smokies didn't strike me as terribly difficult - I don't think that there is anything about this stretch that someone in reasonable shape couldn't handle, especially if you had time to take it at a relaxed pace. The biggest factor in hiking through there would be monitoring the weather situation.
Did you meet a thru-hiker from MA named Andy? I talked to him on Sunday night for the first time and he was at Davenport Gap. And when I asked how miserable the weather had been lately his response was "There's been a few nice days." Sounds like that is looking on the bright side of things! Sheesh.
Doesn't ring a bell... if he were NOBO and at Davenport Gap on Sunday we just missed each other. I started at Davenport Gap on Monday morning going south.
Glad to hear about yourn trip, sounds like you got to see some of Miss Nature's best condtions. Do you think crampons would've helped?
I went out on a short 5 day backpacking trip on March 6 and ran into that winter snowstorm a few days later but it was nothing like what you saw in the Smokies.
I wonder what the Rangers must think of all those Wheeled Tourists and newbs they have to extract on a regular basis? I bet they look forward to the end of winter.
If I had brought crampons there were definitely places they would have been handy - most notably Clingman's Dome and between Icewater Springs Shelter and Newfound Gap. As it was, I fell down several times but actually did pretty good considering the conditions.
I did wear gaitors this trip which turned out to be one of my better purchase decisions. After slogging through all that snow and walking through long-long stretches of running water I was very surprised and pleased that the tops of my boots, socks and pants were still dry.