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View Full Version : Fires Creek/Chunky Gal trip report



generoll
03-21-2008, 21:26
I just finished a hike using the Fires Creek Rim Trail and the Chunky Gal Trail. Those of you at Soruck 2008 may recall a presentation my Jeff Hunter (Mowgli) concerning these trails so I though this might be of interest to some of you. This isn't about great feats of hiking, just my impressions and experience on these two trails.

Day 1:

My daughter and son in law accompanied me to the Fires Creek Rim area near Hayesville, NC and joined me as far as the first creek crossing the trail up from Leatherwood Falls. This small meadow and creek is about 2.3 miles from the parking lot and made a nice stopping point for lunch. After lunch they headed back down and I hiked on to Will King Gap which is where a connecting trail comes up from the basin. The mileage is listed as 5.3 miles in John Rays guide and all mileages are taken from that guide. The altitude gain is about 2200 feet in the first 4 miles and the trail is rugged. The trail is well blazed and shows signs of old maintenance, but nothing too recent. As this is a rim trail available water is limited and determined campsites for me. I hate dry camping and will lengthen, or more often shorten a hike to camp by water.

Day 2:

Will King Gap to County Corners. 8.8 miles and an overall gain of about 1000 feet. The aggregate gain felt about 10 times that as every knob, named or not gets a visit. Blowdowns are a fact of life as is an excellent view north over Andrews, NC to the Snowbird Mountains and other points of interest. The campsite at County Corners was the nicest I saw on my trip and had the nicest spring. Level ground for tents (rare on this trail) and not overly trashed. An old bunker and firetower base (not visited) are on this section and I regret not taking the time to snoop around.

Day 3:

County Corners to campsite past Bob Allison Campground. (est 5.4 miles) This day was done in a dripping fog and although spectacular views are mentioned in the guide, this was not the day for them. A possible campsite atop Tusquitee Bald would be great for star gazing in clear weather, but you would need to carry your water from one of the sites along the trail. This trail, which combines sections of the Fires Creek Rim and Chunky Gal trails includes a 2000 foot altitude loss in a little over 3 miles. That along with the distance to the next dependable water had me stopping a short distance beyond Bob Allison to camp for the night. There are several tributaries for Big Tuni Creek and I camped near one of them. This was the only section of the trail where I actually saw wildlife. Heard would be more accurate as I scared up two grouse (who returned the favor) on the descent for Tusquitee. Bob Allison is a campground in desperate need of a cleanup as trash is everywhere. It's accessible by car, but has no trash recepticles which doesn't seen to inconvenience the campers. They just leave it for the next guy. The guide doesn't recommend camping there for good reason.

Day 4:

Campsite near Bob Allison to assumed headwaters of Barnard Creek. (est 9.7 miles) This day was done in a driving rain and was basically just more of the same. The rain did break by late afternoon and some of the promised views occured. I could see what was the western end of Nantahala Lake as well as Wayah and Winespring Balds. Or at least I think that was what I was seeing. Other then knowing I was on the Chunky Gal Trail I was never absolutely certain where along the trail I was. The campsite I chose had a nice collection of quartzite in the creek, which I first mistook for a trash dump full of chunks of styrofoam. I was puzzled as to how that could have happened, but once I put my glasses on and went for water the mystery was solved. Ron Haven says those rocks are known locally as moonstone and when I told him I had hiked the Chunky Gal he wanted to know if I'd seen gemstones. Frankly, all I saw were dead leaves for the most part. Obviously this needs to be hiked by someone more attentive.

Day 5: Headwaters of Barnard Creek to hwy 64. (3.3 miles) The temp dropped and I awoke to snow, frozen boots and underware. My original plan had been to complete the Chunky Gal to the AT and then down Kimsey Creek to Standing Indian Camprground, but a hot shower and dry clothes won the toss and once I got to the highway it was two short hitches and I was at the outfitter in Franklin. A phone call from them and my ride to Rons was on the way. This was the only section of the trail where I actually misplaced the trail. The guide warns of a short (.5 mile) walk on a seeded road with an easy to miss ladder. I missed it and once I figured it out had to backtrack about 1/4 of a mile. This was probably the only place on the trail where a turn wasn't double blazed. Guess I got spoiled.

generoll
03-21-2008, 21:35
Impressions:

This was a tough hike for me given the terrain and number of blowdowns I had to deal with. My initial thought was of the character from Greek Mythology that had to push a rock up the mountain each day to have it tumble down each night. There may be a few knobs in the area that aren't crossed, but it's not for want of trying. Think Kelly Knob, all day over and over again. The weather conspired to dampen my enthusiasm for this hike and I'm sure made me miss a lot that I should have appreciated. The trail is very well blazed and the guide is an excellent resource. I wouldn't have wanted to do the hike without it. The lack of recent upkeep is the responsibility of all hikers and is just a fact of life.

This is a good place for solitude. I saw no one from start to finish and probably talked a bit too much once I got back in polite society. There's another connecting trail from County Corners that goes all the way to Cheoah Bald using among other things the NC Bartram Trail.

Again, I consider the guide invaluable. I just wish it were preinted on waterproof paper.

Tipi Walter
03-22-2008, 08:53
I'm glad you got to backpack this area and put in a trip report. Any fotogs? Sorry I couldn't join you as I've often wondered about those trails near the Snowbird wilderness. There's a sidetrail that leaves the BMT up on Whiggs Meadow that ties into the Snowbird area and I wonder if a connection to Snowbird from the Chunky Gal could be made? Or the Bartram to Chunky Gal? Gotta check my maps.

Anyway, thanks for the input.

troglobil
03-22-2008, 09:00
what guide book did you use?

generoll
03-22-2008, 09:06
There's a trail from County Corners called Old Road Gap trail that connects with the NC Bartram Trail. That's the one I mentioned that ultimately connects with Cheoah Bald.

The guide book is by John Ray and is available online. I just did a google and got a huge URL. use Fires Creek and John Ray and you'll find the guide. He has a set of three guides that include all of the Bartram Trail as well as Fires Creek and Chunky Gal and other connecting trails. My only quibble with them is the size. They are on 8.5x11 paper and are hard to reference as you are hiking, especially when it's raining. Given my miniscule memory (too little RAM at my age) I need to constantly refer back to them.

troglobil
03-22-2008, 12:48
thanks Gene

generoll
03-22-2008, 14:05
by the way, the National Geographic map #784, "Fontana & Hiawassee Lakes" covers this area and gives you a good overview of how the trails all connect. The scale might be a bit large for actual day to day hiking, but it was easier to read for me then the monochrome maps in the guide.

Tipi Walter
03-22-2008, 21:39
by the way, the National Geographic map #784, "Fontana & Hiawassee Lakes" covers this area and gives you a good overview of how the trails all connect. The scale might be a bit large for actual day to day hiking, but it was easier to read for me then the monochrome maps in the guide.

Yeah, I have the map, I'm just too lazy to get off my butt and look thru my boxes to find it.

Marta
03-24-2008, 08:27
Well, we're back. We had planned to spend three days out, hiking short-long-short miles, but we ended up hiking halfway around on Saturday, so we finished up by the end of Day Two, and drove on back to Charlotte.

It is a very nice loop hike, and you get a lot of bang for your buck with elevation change. There are some very steep ups and downs. While it is a developed, marked trail, is it not maintained and used to the same level as the AT. Since this is what I was looking for, that was a good thing, as far as I was concerned.

1) Even on a perfect weather, holiday weekend, we only saw two small groups of people the whole time we were out.
2) There's a lot more scope for map reading (using NG #784), using it to figure out likely water sources, etc.
3) Don't wear shorts unless you want to emerge with your legs looking as if you had waded into a maelstrom of fighting cats. (There are lots and lots of briars growing over the trail. A machete would have been useful in places.)
4) Don't go in a large group. Tent sites are few and far between, and mostly dry. OTOH, it's a great place to find an isolated site. On Sat. night, Jim was ahead of us and pressed on to County Corners. David and I found a little nook on an old logging road just below the ridge, a few hundred feet above the source of a creek. (Somewhere around mile 12.5-13.) There was not one single light visible below us. The silence was complete. Lovely.
5) It would be a great place to go exploring. There are plenty of side trails, creeks, old homesites, the site of an airplane crash, and fantastic views from the ridge.

As we were passing through Winding Stair Gap on our way there, Ron Haven was there, so I hopped out to say hi. Ron mentioned that the Fires Creek area abounded in emeralds. None of us found any, unfortunately. Maybe next time.

CBSSTony
04-24-2008, 17:37
I have geocached in that area and it is pretty well secluded. Briars and such are the norm. Didn't know about the guide, sounds interesting.