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Does anyone have any info on starting a thru-hike in January? Anything would be helpful, books and such. Any first-hand accounts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
bigcranky
06-13-2008, 11:29
There are several journals on trailjournals.com from hikers who've started Jan 1. It's chilly. Try Rocket's journal as an example:
http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=24851
MAny people have started Jan 1st (going NoBo).
I do not remember the names off hand, but if you go to trailjournals.com, you'll find some for sure.
Yep. check the journals. There's a lot of additional challenges that come with a winter hike, not the least of which is knowing when it's wise to get off the trail and let weather go past. Also, you'll carry more weight in the winter, obviously.
Tipi Walter
06-13-2008, 14:02
Here are some questions to consider:
Do I need to bring a lightweight pair of crampons?
Do I want to carry the extra weight of a zero bag/decent pad(s)?
Will I need gaitors?
The biggest problem I have with winter backpacking is when I have to fight thru a trail blocked by snow-heavy evergreens and rhododendron. I call them Snowdowns(like blowdowns). Sometimes they can be awful. They hang over the trail almost to the ground but if you're good at duck-walking you'll have no problem.
bigcranky
06-13-2008, 15:22
To add to TW's list:
Snow shoes? (probably)
Gaiters? (definitely)
Lots of extra cash? (Definitely)
Plenty of winter hiking experience? (Yup)
Hiking in January in the southern Appalachians is beautiful. The weather can vary from quite warm to well below zero. It's just a wonderful time to be out there if you are prepared for it.
Have fun.
Oh, and there's usually a good crowd on Springer for New Year's Eve, so you'd get a good send-off.
dessertrat
06-13-2008, 15:23
It would be a serious challenge going Southbound, although at least you could walk across a lot of the streams and rivers without fording them. Then there's the question of permission to climb Katahdin in January.
hammock engineer
06-13-2008, 15:43
I finished up Southboun Jan 20th. I passed about 10 or so headed north in that time. Half seemed to know what they were in for and have done it before, the others were just winging it.
I wouldn't go without a zero deg bag, solid shelter skills, warm clothes, and extra food. I will say that after spending some cold months out, warmth of any type is priceless at any weight.
I want to try something like that some day. I understand winter to be a fairly traditional time for travel. Not so sure about March. I understand March to be the worst in places like Maine and here in New Brunswick. Perhaps not so bad along the coast where I do most of my hiking. I've done January and I've done May, but nothing in between other than day hikes. I suppose the worst month depends on where you are.
If you make it through the Smokies in Winter, won't you arrive in Maine just in time to be eaten alive by black flies?
I've only got until July 1st to finish, so black flies be damned
2Questions
06-13-2008, 17:10
Friend of mine started Jan, ended June. E-mail him at
[email protected]. I'm sure he'd be glad to talk to you about it.
Check out 'The Unknown Hiker' on trailjournals. I met him in March on the trail south of Damascus. He had started in January at Springer, having done two prior SOBO's. His pack was about 40 lbs at that time and now he is down to around 20lbs.
Tennessee Viking
06-13-2008, 18:13
It will be quite cold and very cold wind chills in the higher elevations. Expect frost bite, frozen water and food, and snowy wet shoes.
Damascus is one of the usual spots for equipment switching.
4eyedbuzzard
06-13-2008, 18:20
...Expect frost bite...
A little frostnip perhaps but true frostbite? Gosh, I hope not
It was warm in March when I began hiking, north bound from Watauga Dam, but there was plenty left over snow on the ground along the ridgeline. Another front came in that night and the next day, began raining heavily, temps fell into the 30's, by the second morning everything was covered in ice. Temps all day in the 20's. While a bit uncomfortable it was very refreshing to be in the challenges of the moment. Don't worry about frostbite, just take the usual precautions, gloves, heavy wool socks, waterproof boots, heavy undergarment insulation, etc. You'll do fine. I've always regarded frostbite as completely unavoidable in this part of the world, hypothermia however is a real possibility virtually anywhere.
Blue Jay
06-14-2008, 09:05
Make sure you have a tent that can hold up during a snow storm. I know this sounds obvious but I'm not the only one who has missed this one.:eek:
minnesotasmith
06-14-2008, 09:21
Is getting to the Smokies, and finding out that the snow on the ground is thick enough, that there's not room between the top of the snow and the bottom of the tree branches to walk. That would mean either yellow-blazing the GSNP, or crawling for scores of miles.
double d
06-14-2008, 11:08
Don't forget some other issues about winter hiking: no bugs, less people and no snakes!
waterbottles and filter must be stowed in the bottom of your sleeping bag at night
correction to my above post: "I have always regarded frostbite as completely AVOIDABLE....."
Next time I'll do the 'preview post' thingy.
Tennessee Viking
06-14-2008, 22:54
Is getting to the Smokies, and finding out that the snow on the ground is thick enough, that there's not room between the top of the snow and the bottom of the tree branches to walk. That would mean either yellow-blazing the GSNP, or crawling for scores of miles.
I forgot about that. Expect 6-12 inches of pure ice on trail in the Smokies. 441 to Newfound Gap will more than likely be closed. Depend on how prepared they are in the park.
4eyedbuzzard
06-15-2008, 00:14
correction to my above post: "I have always regarded frostbite as completely AVOIDABLE....."
Next time I'll do the 'preview post' thingy.
Thanks. I was beginning to wonder about you guys who thought frostbite was unavoidable. Definitely wouldn't want to be in your shoes!;):D
fiddlehead
06-15-2008, 03:23
All this talk of next to impossible totally depends on the year. Just like on the PCT and CDT, it depends on the year.
I did the Smokies in January 2001 on our SOBO hike finishing at Springer on Feb 10.
Saw no one, had great weather, one or two icy spots and it was the calmest weather I had ever seen in that area.
So yes, it can get bad but it can be awesome too.
Biggest problem i would worry about is what to do on those 15 hour nights. Bring extra batteries and a book. Also, many hostels, state parks, even motels, are closed during that off-season.
correction to my above post: "I have always regarded frostbite as completely AVOIDABLE....."
Next time I'll do the 'preview post' thingy.
You can become a donating member of Whiteblaze. Donating member's are granted mysterious powers of editing by the Whiteblaze genie. :D
I did GSMNP over 2 weekends this past winter. I encountered ice on the South half & snow with ice on the North half. The park is beautiful in these conditions. Neither trip required crampons. I did run across an ice shelf in the Nantahalas that required going around off trail. You may want to carry 6 point crampons as each trip brings it's own unique challenges. I hiked w/ a SOBO on one of the trips. He told me he froze his @ss in the balds since there is no shelter from the wind.
Frolicking Dinosaurs
06-15-2008, 07:26
I see Tipi Walter is in this thread - he probably knows more about winter hiking than anyone else on this site. My advice is to ask questions and careful listen to what he says. He practically lives in the woods year round.
hammock engineer
06-15-2008, 17:55
I am not a winter expert by any means. All I know is I was in the Smokies for Christmas last year. Not the white death everyone was talking about. I hiked a little sans shirt one day. It was colder before and after I went through. Just watch the weather reports and plan accordingly. Don't be afriad to take days off when needed or change plans on the fly.
4eyedbuzzard
06-15-2008, 17:58
I see Tipi Walter is in this thread - he probably knows more about winter hiking than anyone else on this site...
Wolf - 23000 also.
Bare Bear
06-15-2008, 19:35
It is the same as any hike should be: BE PREPARED.
I cut short a 500 mile section of the PCT when a snow storm closed the passes and I had to go about five miles through 3-5 foot of drift snow to get to the Interstate. I then spent 48 hours in a semi-tractor losing my $38 playing poker with the driver kind enough to let me stay with him until the road re-opened. I survived because I had proper cold weather gear even though the temps had been in the 60sF all week before. It took me six hours to got the 3-5 miles due to no shoeshoes. I would have loved to have a cell tower that worked nearby.
Bare Bear
06-15-2008, 19:36
Sorry, I forgot to put the date JUNE 5th. Snow in Ca. Go figure.
The Solemates
06-15-2008, 22:04
Is getting to the Smokies, and finding out that the snow on the ground is thick enough, that there's not room between the top of the snow and the bottom of the tree branches to walk. That would mean either yellow-blazing the GSNP, or crawling for scores of miles.
thats the biggest bunch of bs ive ever heard. ive hiked hundreds of miles thru the smokies in the dead of winter with snow drifts measured in feet.
The Solemates
06-15-2008, 22:05
Does anyone have any info on starting a thru-hike in January? Anything would be helpful, books and such. Any first-hand accounts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
we started feb 1. if you have specific questions, we'd be glad to answer...
I have a bit of experience with winter hiking in the Whites from a long time ago. It's tough going. Start with short days and long nights. It can be very tricky knowing where the trail is -- many of the visual clues that you take for granted in the summer are hidden under snow. And then of course there's the issue of walking "on" or through the snow (or ice,) with or without snowshoes or crampons. Snowshoes are fine for level ground, but not so much on steeps.
On the plus side, the views can be great, and there are no bugs. Staying warm wasn't the major issue, at least not while hiking.
minnesotasmith
06-16-2008, 09:25
thats the biggest bunch of bs ive ever heard. ive hiked hundreds of miles thru the smokies in the dead of winter with snow drifts measured in feet.
That I heard that people who started from Springer on New Year's Day risked. You started less than 2 weeks before me, in February, after that time.
The Solemates
06-16-2008, 19:21
That I heard that people who started from Springer on New Year's Day risked. You started less than 2 weeks before me, in February, after that time.
regardless of who you heard it from, its bs. I'm not talking only about my thru-hike. as i stated before, I've hiked hundreds of miles in the smokies in the months of Jan, Feb, and March, and this "crawling " phenomenon you mention never happens. the only way it could happen is if a ice storm comes through and bends over a bunch of rhodadendron, but it wouldnt be for "scores of miles" as you say.
I completed a six day hike, 29 Dec 07 thru 3 Jan 08, from Davenport Gap to Fontana Dam; my first winter hike. Two days of sun, two days of rain, and two days of snow(drifted to about 15" deep)were the weather conditions. Temperatures varied from a high of 60 degrees in the daytime to 0 degrees on two nights. I've been told the Smokies are notorious for this type of weather. I wore crampons one day, mainly because I couldn't tell what was under the snow. I used a 20 degree bag and wore extra clothing while sleeping. It was a little uncomfortable, but tolerable. I did not have to crawl under much greenery, but the trail seemed to have more blow downs than normal, probably because work crews probably were waiting for a good stretch of weather. Also, breaking new trail in the snow will definitely slow you down. Expect many days of minimal human contact, winter weather tends to thin the ranks of hikers on the trail. Make a consevative plan and then have fun.
you could always stop at the top of a mountain and then rig a sled up from some downed limbs and your parachord and ride down in style
regardless of who you heard it from, its bs. I'm not talking only about my thru-hike. as i stated before, I've hiked hundreds of miles in the smokies in the months of Jan, Feb, and March, and this "crawling " phenomenon you mention never happens. the only way it could happen is if a ice storm comes through and bends over a bunch of rhodadendron, but it wouldnt be for "scores of miles" as you say.About ten years ago in January on the AT on the ridge between Webster and Jackson I hit a spot where I had to crawl on my hands because the snow was so deep it brought me up to the canopy. But it was only for about a hundred yards. There were times when I had to duck in other places in the Whites, on teh AT and off, but nothing of any significant length like a wuarter mile or anything like that. I certainly can't see "scores of miles" if a score = 20.
A place or two here and there in the Smokies, I'm sure, that would be about it for crawling on hands and knees.
Don't spoil his fun. It sounds GREAT to his buddies on the oil rig.
NorthCountryWoods
06-17-2008, 08:44
No experience in the deep south, but winter section hiked just about everything north of the NY/CT border (minus baxter) and just about all of the Long Trail (minus smugglers notch) and the weather is the biggest variable. It effects everything....speed, comfort, spirit, headlamp batteries, fuel consumption, food consumption,....this tends to make planning tenuous at best. A long stretch of heavy snow and cold will kill your miles and increase your food and fuel consumption. Or a long stretch of good weather will tempt you to cut some weight and send some essentials home.
They say you only burn a few more calories an hour doing the same exercise in the cold, but add to that the increased pack weight, the resistance of walking in snow/ice/wind and an increased appetite in the cold and your food will disappear quick.
If you're prepared, it's a great experience. Good luck!
kayak karl
11-02-2008, 12:01
just wanted to bump up thread, any other warning or advice for a January Thru
I've hiked the Smokies AT in winter on half a dozen occasions. Once I enjoyed sunny days with a high of 60 in mid-January. Another time I had to contend with over a foot of snow just after Christmas.
The real issue, IMO, is ice. Feet pack down the snow, it melts a bit in the direct sun, and freezes to a sheet of solid ice overnight. This can be a real problem and genuine danger. Not from sliding off a cliff (way too many trees for this to be likely) but simply from smashing you body into rock-hard ice every couple of hundred yards.
I've used CMI Instep crampons (http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/CMI-1C001C-Cmi-Instep-Crampon-W-Binding/32884/Cat/156). They were excellent for actual ice, but when you hit rock they can be rough, both for the crampons and your feet. I suffered mild bruising at the arch. But they are definitely the most reliably gripping traction devices I've used in the Smokies.
I've also had good luck with YakTraz Pros (http://www.rei.com/product/760281). The velcro strap over the top helps them stay on much better than regular Yaktrax. I've heard complaints about their wearing out fairly quickly, but I've only hiked maybe 5 total miles with them. I did find that they were easier to wear on a mix of ice, snow, and occasional mud versus the instep crampons. They are only about 4 ounces for the pair in men's 11.
A good in-between might be CMI Ice Cleats (http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/CMI-ICE-CLEATS-Cmi-Ice-Cleats/32883/Cat/156). Not as aggressive long as the instep crampons. Tougher than the Yaktrax I would imagine from looking at the design. But I haven't used them, so I can't say for certain one way or the other.
traildust
11-07-2008, 11:41
I am thinking of leaving on Jan 1. Good prep, the right equipment, the right food in the right quanities and the wisdom to hold up or get off. Know the trail and ever town on the trail from Georgia to Damascus.
I hiked a section each month last winter and there was snow on the ground in some form or another each month (Dec, Jan, Feb, Mar.) The only snow/ice storm I actually hiked in was through the Smokies and it was tough... Especially when I left my car keys, cash and credit card in a shelter and didn't realize it until I had hiked for 2 hours and had to turn around and hike 2 hours back in the sleet to get them. Talk about a drag....
It's can be very tough to see white blazes after a snowfall.
Does anyone have any info on starting a thru-hike in January? Anything would be helpful, books and such. Any first-hand accounts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Just some concerns(not worries or impossibilities) to be prepared for: hiking shorter mile days, hostel/campground store/small grocery store closures, possible access(road) closures, carrying more wt. on your back, expending more energy(more cals. needed, more food wt. carried, particularly if U R blazing trail in snow), more specialized winter gear(if U have to ask about what gear U need U R not yet ready), frozen or less frequently encountered H2O, route finding skills(although the AT is well marked, if U can find the marks), etc. Know when to get off the trail. Be watchfully aware of up to date weather conditions(be able to tune into FM/AM). Be prepared to spend a bit more $(as compared to an AT thru-hiker in fair weather) if U have to stay off the trail for a while in inclement weather. Get more accustomed to the cold before U start on the thru-hike. Upside: greater solitude, experiencing Spring arrive in the northeast, experiencing the beauty of Winter, space at shelters(one of the big pluses of winter hiking on the AT and Long Trl is the shelters, IMO). Yes, U may be able to avoid deep snow or ice for a while, but thinking U will totally avoid it with your starting date is to invite problems, maybe even life threatening problems.
I'll state it again, KNOW WHAT IS TO MOST LIKELY BE ENCOUNTERED, BE ADAPTABLE, and BE PREPARED and U will have a better hike. Enjoy the hike.
Blue Jay
11-24-2008, 14:08
I've hiked the Smokies AT in winter on half a dozen occasions. Once I enjoyed sunny days with a high of 60 in mid-January. Another time I had to contend with over a foot of snow just after Christmas.
The real issue, IMO, is ice. Feet pack down the snow, it melts a bit in the direct sun, and freezes to a sheet of solid ice overnight. This can be a real problem and genuine danger. Not from sliding off a cliff (way too many trees for this to be likely) but simply from smashing you body into rock-hard ice every couple of hundred yards.
I've used CMI Instep crampons (http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/CMI-1C001C-Cmi-Instep-Crampon-W-Binding/32884/Cat/156). They were excellent for actual ice, but when you hit rock they can be rough, both for the crampons and your feet. I suffered mild bruising at the arch. But they are definitely the most reliably gripping traction devices I've used in the Smokies.
I've also had good luck with YakTraz Pros (http://www.rei.com/product/760281). The velcro strap over the top helps them stay on much better than regular Yaktrax. I've heard complaints about their wearing out fairly quickly, but I've only hiked maybe 5 total miles with them. I did find that they were easier to wear on a mix of ice, snow, and occasional mud versus the instep crampons. They are only about 4 ounces for the pair in men's 11.
A good in-between might be CMI Ice Cleats (http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/CMI-ICE-CLEATS-Cmi-Ice-Cleats/32883/Cat/156). Not as aggressive long as the instep crampons. Tougher than the Yaktrax I would imagine from looking at the design. But I haven't used them, so I can't say for certain one way or the other.
YakTrax Pros do wear out quickly, you are luckey to get 5 miles. The rest of your post is excellent.
I forgot about that. Expect 6-12 inches of pure ice on trail in the Smokies. 441 to Newfound Gap will more than likely be closed. Depend on how prepared they are in the park.
IF, when you get to Fontana, you find that Newfound gap is closed or the ice on the AT is WAY too bad, consider taking the BMT: lower elevations, you pass close (5 miles I think) to Cherokee NC instead of being 20+ miles from anywhere at Newfound gap. There is a ranger station at about 1/2 way thru (@ newfound gap road). BUT, be sure to let the people at home know you are changing routes.
Bare Bear
11-26-2008, 16:08
Carry extar fuel,you do not want ot run out in freezing weather.
I also carry the weight of a paperback book and have spent 24 hours in a shelter (in my bag, in my tent in the shelter, lots warmer and it is not like you will need to share) waitng out the really bad weather.
waterbottles and filter must be stowed in the bottom of your sleeping bag at night
I don't us a filter so no problem there. I've found if I expect significant freezing I will fill my cooking pot with water the night before and let it freeze. It doesn't take that much longer to heat it up the next morning, back into the liquid state. No worry about scorching as you have with snow - but do start the process gently.
Another trick for water bottles is to heat water the night before, fill the bottle with hot water, then place in a wool sock. Place the sock in your boot. Generally keeps the water and boot from freezing solid. Always store your water bottles upside down so the opening isn't the first to freeze.
regardless of who you heard it from, its bs. I'm not talking only about my thru-hike. as i stated before, I've hiked hundreds of miles in the smokies in the months of Jan, Feb, and March, and this "crawling " phenomenon you mention never happens. the only way it could happen is if a ice storm comes through and bends over a bunch of rhodadendron, but it wouldnt be for "scores of miles" as you say.
Actually, from my own personal experience, I would not be so certain that it would "never happen". I've been caught out during a blizzard in Nov and had a situation where it was impossible to hike the trail in anything approaching an up-right stance. Granted, this was in SNP not the Smokies, but it was also November, not January or February. Luckily, we had the Skyline drive nearby to use as an alternate route.
Maybe not scores of miles, but the 11 miles or so between Gravel Springs and Tom Floyd Wayside was more than I wished to do in a crouch.
Never say never. All things are possible, and it probably isn't all that unheard of.