View Full Version : Jmt
Bear Cables
06-14-2008, 17:20
I know this is an AT forum, but can someone give me some good links about the JMT? Thinking a west hike may be in the future as well as the AT after retirement.
I know this is an AT forum, but can someone give me some good links about the JMT? Thinking a west hike may be in the future as well as the AT after retirement.
Start here - http://alumnus.caltech.edu/~rbell/JohnMuirTrail.html.gz
You'll also find quite a bit in the "Other Trails" forum about the JMT.
Bear Cables
06-15-2008, 11:48
Take a space blanket
Tell me more?
Tell me more?Sun is your biggest problem / enemy on the JMT! With the altitudes and relentless sun, you must be creative in protecting your skin: sun block, space blanket, umbrella, white nylon hooded wind shirt are some of the options. Think long and hard about how you will deal with protecting your skin without adding to the heat problem between 10 am and 5 pm everyday! You'll boil in the daytime and freeze at night! Carry a 20 degree sleeping bag and a good layered cold weather clothing system, even in the middle of summer.
If possible, acclimate to altitude slowly, especially if you start at Whitney Portal. I would personally recommend doing it SOBO.
On the AT you might have a bear encounter. On the JMT you WILL have bear encounters. Plan your food protection system. I'd recommend a Ursac or bear vault.
Sun is your biggest problem / enemy on the JMT! With the altitudes and relentless sun, you must be creative in protecting your skin: sun block, space blanket, umbrella, white nylon hooded wind shirt are some of the options. Think long and hard about how you will deal with protecting your skin without adding to the heat problem between 10 am and 5 pm everyday! You'll boil in the daytime and freeze at night! Carry a 20 degree sleeping bag and a good layered cold weather clothing system, even in the middle of summer.
If possible, acclimate to altitude slowly, especially if you start at Whitney Portal. I would personally recommend doing it SOBO.
SOBO is the way I did it in '06. I wore a wide brim hat and lathered up with sunscreen every AM. I wore long pants the duration of my hike, as much for protection from bugs as from the sun.
I carried a 40 degree bag, but I used a 4 season tent (Stephensons Warmlite) which added perhaps 10 degrees. I also sleep warm. My daughter will carry a 30 degree bag next month when we hit the JMT again.
I don't care for space blankets myself. They are too noisy for my taste. And I like eating baked potatoes - not dressing up like one. ;)
Our main strategy in 2006 was to wake at 5 AM and be hiking at6 AM (first light). We positioned ourselves each day so that we could climb the days pass before it got too hot. Climbing a pass in the middle of the day can be murderously hot. I also tried to take a nice nap after lunch each day.
What did I learn from my last hike? I'll try and swim more this time. We'll try and hit the hot springs by Muir Trail Ranch. We'll take the shuttle into Mammoth this time and shop at Vons instead of sending a drop to Reds. We're starting at Tuolumne Meadows this time instead of in the valley. That'll avoid some of the crowds. I hope to fish more - and eat more fish. I only ate 2 in '06. I'm going lighter weight this time. I ditched my 2 pound flyrod case for a 6 ounce case I bought at Backpackinglite. I'm also carrying my 2 pound REI pack instead of my 6 pound Dana Designs behemoth.
Lastly, we'll try and take public transit from Bishop to LAX. Our shuttle in '06 was $250 - and that's when gas was $2/gallon. And that was only from Lone Pine to Mojave!
What an awesome trail! Can't wait to hit the Sierra again!
fiddlehead
06-15-2008, 20:57
Now wait. I've hiked the JMT 5 times now. Saw one bear. (i like to camp up high in a spot with a view and don't go to the popular campsites with the masses and THAT's where the bears go for their dinner) It is a rule now thought that you must carry a bear canister i believe.
Didn't get sunburnt, Didn't carry sun block or emergency blanket.
Best time to go is in September (as with most any trail) after Labor Day the crowds are greatly diminished.
It's a beautiful trail. Enjoy it.
I'll be out in Yosemite the 5th-8th of August. Plan on day hiking some of the JMT.
Wish I could backpack though, unfortunately the people I'm going with don't want to:(
It is a rule now thought that you must carry a bear canister i believe.
Yes, it's required.
Didn't get sunburnt, Didn't carry sun block or emergency blanket.
I saw a few people that looked like lobsters. I got burnt too much as a kid, so I'm trying to avoid further damage. My mother and grandfather both had brushes with skin cancer.
Best time to go is in September (as with most any trail) after Labor Day the crowds are greatly diminished.
Wish I could go then. But my kid is in college, and we're going during the break.
Don't mean to hijack the thread... but... any opinions on using a 45 degree bag up in northern CA on the PCT in early August? (PCT section P.) How's the treadway? Running shoes OK?
fiddlehead
06-15-2008, 22:35
Don't mean to hijack the thread... but... any opinions on using a 45 degree bag up in northern CA on the PCT in early August? (PCT section P.) How's the treadway? Running shoes OK?
I sleep cold so would never be without at least a 30deg. bag. Isn't there some altitude in that section? 8000-9,000 feet ? ( I'd rather leave behind my raingear than my "hummingbird" by FF. )
Runnin shoes are fine the whole PCT.
Is that the Etna section? I remember one dry stretch just north of Etna. Otherwise it's easy to follow and good tread (sandy) most of the way. Easy hiking and very beautiful.
But yes, you definitely hi-jacked the thread and it is in straight forward too. (Hey, if you fall and need surgery, flights are a lot cheaper from the west coast. )
Thanks, FH. I didn't want to start a whole new thread w/ my questions... BTW, I considered doing a piece of the JMT for this hike but logistically, it just doesn't work; no simple on/off, and time is limited. Some day!!! Yes, Sec. P is the one with Etna at the north end.
BEsides the excellent link posted by Mowgli, check out:
http://www.pcta.org/about_trail/muir/over.asp
Bear Cables
06-16-2008, 10:38
Don't mean to hijack the thread... but... any opinions on using a 45 degree bag up in northern CA on the PCT in early August? (PCT section P.) How's the treadway? Running shoes OK?
Since I started this thread I would welcome any input on experience on the JMT if that's okay with the forum. Maybe move this to general. I'll let the monitors decide that.
Probably the most difficult thing about this trail is getting home from the southern terminus. Seems like public transit is best geared to get folks to Reno, NV.
Folks do the trail anywhere between 10-24 days. PCT thru-hikers can tear off that section fairly quickly because they already have their legs.
The trail really has everything. Amazing views. BIG mountains. High mountain passes. Amazing wildflowers. Fantastic fishing. And scenery that never quits.
It can get a bit busy during the summer. As Fiddlehead said, if you could hike later in the season, there are fewer people (and bugs).
Bear Cables
06-16-2008, 12:27
Probably the most difficult thing about this trail is getting home from the southern terminus. Seems like public transit is best geared to get folks to Reno, NV.
Folks do the trail anywhere between 10-24 days. PCT thru-hikers can tear off that section fairly quickly because they already have their legs.
The trail really has everything. Amazing views. BIG mountains. High mountain passes. Amazing wildflowers. Fantastic fishing. And scenery that never quits.
It can get a bit busy during the summer. As Fiddlehead said, if you could hike later in the season, there are fewer people (and bugs).
If I hiked in , say Sept., where would a good start and stop place for for a section of it. Maybe a 35-40 miler.
If I hiked in , say Sept., where would a good start and stop place for for a section of it. Maybe a 35-40 miler.
Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite to Reds Meadow is about 35 miles. That's an incredible stretch of alpine wonderland.
Pick up Elizabeth Wenk's book at Amazon. It's entitled John Muir Trail, and is published by Wilderness Press.
fiddlehead
06-16-2008, 21:18
Did my first thru of the JMT in '90 or '91 and we had just gotten our permit for 25 days to enter at Yosemite Valley when the next day, they closed the park to all with the exception of anyone who had a backcountry permit. (fires weren't really threatening much of the park but had closed 2 of the 3 roads in the park so they decided to close) We couldn't even get a ride down from Tuolumme to the valley but got one halfway and hiked down the north dome trail to the valley which was empty of people.
Just before we started the hike, a park ranger saw us and immedietly slammed on his brakes and did a 180 and sped over to us to say: What are you guys doing here, this park is closed. We pulled out our back country permits, he got on his radio and then let us go.
It was a great hike with only a few people on the trail and no one in the valley or nearby at those 2 big waterfalls (Nevada? and one that starts with a V?) I've done it 4 more times and the worst part was always comparing those crowds down there to that first year.
The last time i did it, we speed hiked it in 5 1/2 days and when i got to the end, we went to an all you can eat and they came up to me twice to check my reciept as they thought i was a homeless dude or something. (I have dreads and was quite tired as we just finished a 75 mile day by 6 pm)
anyway, good luck. Just thought i'd throw in some stories from the trail.
The last time i did it, we speed hiked it in 5 1/2 days and when i got to the end, we went to an all you can eat and they came up to me twice to check my reciept as they thought i was a homeless dude or something. (I have dreads and was quite tired as we just finished a 75 mile day by 6 pm)
anyway, good luck. Just thought i'd throw in some stories from the trail.
That's amazing. I can't imagine doing Mather Pass, Pinchot Pass, Glen Pass, Forester Pass and Then Mt Whitney in one continuous stretch! Wow!! How heavy was your pack?
The last time i did it, we speed hiked it in 5 1/2 days and when i got to the end, we went to an all you can eat and they came up to me twice to check my reciept as they thought i was a homeless dude or something. (I have dreads and was quite tired as we just finished a 75 mile day by 6 pm)
It boggles the mind. Well, mine anyway.
we just finished a 75 mile day by 6 pmLet's see . . . if you started at 5 am you would have had to average about 8 mph or 7.5 min. mile pace? That's a pretty decent running speed! You sure about that? Surely that's a typo and you meant "25 mile day." :-?
The "V falls" would be Vernal Falls.
Bear Cables
06-17-2008, 00:05
Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite to Reds Meadow is about 35 miles. That's an incredible stretch of alpine wonderland.
Pick up Elizabeth Wenk's book at Amazon. It's entitled John Muir Trail, and is published by Wilderness Press.
I'll check that out. Thanks.
fiddlehead
06-17-2008, 04:40
We did it northbound finishing at Yosemite.
We wanted to finish before dark on our 6th day so started hiking around 1 AM. After about 3 hours sleep. (my friend kept saying: Sleep dep is good for you)
My pack was around 10 and his was 4. He took no stove, and only a lightweight poly top. We cached food at one place and bought at Red's. The guy i did it with wins 100 mile races.
I trained for that hike by running up to 24 mpd on soft sand here in Thailand. My feet were tough anyway. Then i went and hiked the trail SOBO to acclimate and refresh my memory with turns as i knew we would need to make some in the dark.
It's mostly downhill after Tuollume and us ultra runners love downhills.
Bear Cables
06-17-2008, 10:31
We did it northbound finishing at Yosemite.
We wanted to finish before dark on our 6th day so started hiking around 1 AM. After about 3 hours sleep. (my friend kept saying: Sleep dep is good for you)
.
To each his own...but when I do get out west to hike I'm taking it slow and enjoying the views!
fiddlehead
06-17-2008, 10:41
Enjoy! It is a great trail.
Time To Fly 97
06-17-2008, 11:56
The JMT is beautiful and it is nearly impossible to take a bad picture. Get ready for a great time!
I went with very thin nylon wind pants, SPF 30 vented hiking shirt with a wide brimmed hat and was very comfortable during the days. Even though wind pants sounds hot, it is so windy all the time that this was fine. Wearing a fleece vest that you could zip up or down quickly was important too up in the higher elevations. I still am amazed at how the sun would cook everything and then it would instantly turn chilly when the clouds covered the sun (10 minutes hot, 10 minutes chilly - for hours sometimes). Clothing combinations that allow for quick adjustments in temperature will be what you evolve quickly to.
Space blanket or mylar in general is great for a siesta on the desert section of the PCT (southern). These can cut 15 degrees from the hot desert temps. Didn't need this on the JMT. You absolutely need good sunglasses though.
Definitely get up early and hike late sometimes - the mountains completely change color throughout the day with the sun.
Happy hiking!
TTF
Time To Fly 97
06-17-2008, 12:42
Just read Fiddlehead's entries. That is impressive! I have a great memory of you. In '97 on the AT, I banged out a 33 mile day into Trail Days to arrive one day early on Thursday (I had Quincy's pizza-itis). After eating and having a few beers, I walked over to the bonfire and remember some extremely cool guy with a hawk inviting me to relax on a beach chair around the fire, passing me this and that...and then...you and some buddies started playing Fearlesspink floyd on accoustic guitars. I remember thinking heaven can't get much better than this. You are a rock star in my book FH.
Happy hiking!
TTF
Cookerhiker
06-17-2008, 13:18
I hiked most of the JMT in '06 - didn't finish because I ran out of food and time largely because I miscalculated the mileage I could make. Read about it here (http://www.trailjournals.com/cookerhikerjmt).
There's lots of good info on this thread for you as well as other WB threads covering the JMT. My .02:
1. I have a detailed spreadsheet of mileages and elevations which I garnerd from the (IMO inadequate) guidebook and the map set. I've sent it to other WBers so e-mail me if you'd like it.
2. Dryness - also a blessing & curse. Not having the Eastern humidity is refreshing. Your body, clothes, gear, utensils - everything dries quickly. Water is plentiful on the JMT so you don't have long dry stretches. But the dryness afffects your eyes, lips, nostrils, lungs, and skin. I was prepared with eyedrops, sunblock and lip balm but I wish I had brought nasal spray and lotion or powder to alleviate chafing. My nostrils were totally dry & uncomfortable; I felt like I had to blow my nose but nothing was there. And after about 10 days, my inner thighs were chafing, becoming raw and painful.
Bear Cables
06-17-2008, 13:28
Would you say it is drier than hiking in the rockies or northern NM? What could I expect rain wise in the late summer (sept) early fall?
You can probably expect a few afternoon showers but they shouldn't last more than a hour or so.
Would you say it is drier than hiking in the rockies or northern NM? What could I expect rain wise in the late summer (sept) early fall?
You can probably expect a few afternoon showers but they shouldn't last more than a hour or so.
I had no rain in 15 days in August in '06. Not a drop. In fact, most days there were no clouds in the sky.
That's one difference between the Colorado Trail and the JMT. :sun
Of course, things could be completely different this year or next.
You absolutely need good sunglasses though.
TTFGood catch! Completely forgot about them. I used snow goggles and was very glad I did as regular sunglasses would have been near useless on the large snowfields I had to traverse. The sun angles off the snow and will blind you from the side. If you hike late summer when there's likely to be less or no snow, then still consider sunglasses that wrap around the sides a bit.
One thing I'll never forget is hygiene upkeep is fabulous on the JMT. You have no excuse not to lay claim to your own personal and private lake or stream campsite every night. I would remove my boots/socks and walk into the water with my clothes on. A couple of dashes in and out of the water until I could handle the coldness, and then I removed my clothing and rinsed and wrung them out and tossed them on the rocks. After a swim I would put on my dry set and hang the set I just rinsed on a rope clothes line. Even with the sun low and the heat of the day gone, the dryness of the air would result in my clothes being completely dry the next morning. No days on end of funkyness like we have to endure on the AT. ;)
I would reach the campsite exhausted but after this bathing ritual, would feel completely rejuvenated and energized. It's great! Enjoy!
Bear Cables
06-17-2008, 19:28
It just sounds so fabulous! I've haven't been up there since the 70's and really want to go back.
fiddlehead
06-17-2008, 20:21
Talking about rain, when we did that speed hike i mentioned, i first did the whole trail to acclimate and it did not rain at all. So we decided not to carry any tent or shelter of anykind. THen when we did the speed hike, it rained about 2 days. That's another reason we got up at 1 AM that last night, sleeping in the woods with no shelter in the rain isn't the best night sleep. So we decided to get up and finish.
I certainly don't want to hijack this thread with my feats. But wanted to tell you that you should be prepared for rain or snow (not like us)
I agree, it is very dry air and lip balm is a good thing to have. And yes, swimming and washing clothes is easy and fast drying.
Cookerhiker
06-17-2008, 21:05
I had no rain in 15 days in August in '06. Not a drop. In fact, most days there were no clouds in the sky.
That's one difference between the Colorado Trail and the JMT. :sun
Of course, things could be completely different this year or next.
Same here - not surprising since I hiked about 2 weeks you did.
Back in the early 90s, I did a 3 day August backpack in the High Sierra starting at Tuolumne and hiking towards McClure Lakes. I had rain - more than just a passing shower.