View Full Version : southbound questions
hello everyone,
I'm new to the boards, but I've been reading threads here for a while. I'm planning to start a southbound hike in late may of 2005. (right after I graduate from college) Everyone I know who has hiked the trail has started at springer, and I'm wondering if there are any differences in gear and other logistics that I should know about for going south instead of north. Also, is late may/early june too early a date to start? Is some sort of flip/flop hike a better option for starting that time of year?
Smooth03
02-19-2004, 23:11
I SOBOed this past year starting May 30th. Be carefull how early you start because Katahdin doesn't have a set date to open. This year it opened May 24th. Starting late May early June is a fine time to start a SOBO. You obviously know that if you start in Maine you have to start with enough food for the first 117 miles(although look into re-supplying at WhiteHouse Landing. I know some do this but not many). Don't expect to do high mileage at first. Katahdin is the hardest and longest climb of the whole trail and will utterly kick your ass regardless of what shape you are in. But it'll be worth it.
In terms of gear the only difference from starting in Springer is that you will definately want bug netting for your head and DEET if you use that stuff. You can purchase them at most hikign stores or campmor and I HIGHLY recommend this inexpensive and lightweight gear. It will help you keep your insanity. Do NOT underestimate the bugs in early summer maine.
I loved my SOBO and don't think I would have enjoyed a NOBO or flip-flop as much but it just depends on what type of person you are. Most of the SOBOs I knew were like me, just graduated from college so you will have similar people around you. Good luck on your trip. Feel free to post me any questions.
I started May 15 at Springer. Met several others down there starting at that time, college students and a school teacher. Initially planned to do NOBO, but by the time I reached Damascus, VA I decided the schedule looked a little tight, and I hate worrying about schedules, so decided to flip flop. Once I decided to flip, I did so immediately, so my hike was closer to SOBO than NOBO. The advantages are it is really nice in the southern Appalachians in May and June. Not crowded at all, but enough hikers to enjoy some company, and no nights below freezing. Then by the time it started getting hot in early July, it was time to head to Maine. Got to see the first wave of NOBOs finishing and the last wave of SOBOs starting. Many outstanding swimming holes to enjoy during the Maine summer. I passed thru the mid Atlantic states in late summer/early fall no bugs and thanks to a hurricane plenty of water, and at the end never more than a light snow flurry. The first night cold enough to form ice in my water bottle was in mid November (warm fall that year), a few weeks before I would finish. Mt. Rodgers made a nice destination to focus on during the the SOBO section.
Just sharing with you another option.
I guess I should mention a few cons too. You'll run into hunting season in the fall (wear orange) and towards the end, the majority of SOBOs had passed me, so not too much company from fellow long distance hikers. Perhaps I saw 4 in the last 700 miles I hiked.
One issue is beginning your hike in Baxter State Park, Maine. SOBO's are not supposed to use the thru-hikers' Birches campsite. Since you're not in trail shape at the start of your hike, you probably should try to get reservations to stay at Katahdin Stream Campground which can be difficult. In the past this has meant mailing off a reservation in January, but next year they are changing the reservation system:
http://www.baxterstateparkauthority.com/camping/newres2005.html
I wouldn't plan on Katahdin being open before June 1st if you're making a reservation.
Another common problem I see for SOBO's is underestimating the possiblity of harsh weather in the South in late fall, and the fact that some resupply points are seasonal. The ALDHA Companion has information on dates, but I would still call ahead.
Statler
Conventional wisdom is not to start a SOBO before July. The reason is that the streams are still very cold and high with spring snow melt. Also, it's black fly season up there.
Like some one else posted, I wouldn't count on Katahdin being open before June 1. I was up there June 1 and while the Hunt Trail was open, the other routes up were still closed due to ice and snow.
Frankly, I'm a fan of hiking north. So, with your late start day, I'd suggest doing a leap frog, or starting the trail perhaps at Harper's Ferry and going north from there, and then going back and doing the southern section. Or maybe go to Trail Days, and continue north from there.
Smooth03
02-21-2004, 23:49
I would say that June 1st is probably a good date to start at the earliest without getting to risky. When the rangers open up K depends a lot on the winter they have had so you might call and find out an estimate on the opening date. Even starting in June can be hit or miss as I hear this year they closed Katadhin in the middle of June because of a snow storm, and then two weeks later because of heat issues(day hiker died of heat stroke).
In terms of the streams being high when I hiked Maine there was really only one "dicey" crossing and I started May 30th. This of course could be different year to year but do plan on getting your feet wet as there are no bridges.
Hunting season is a concern for SOBOs and I admit there were a few times when the multiple gunshots going off around me were a bit disconcerting. I recommend a orange hat and orange marking tape on your bag. If nothing else it made me feel better.
"Peaks" pointed out some very reasonable options other than a SOBO hike for you to consider. It is important to understand that a SOBO and NOBO hike are truly two extremely different hikes. Both amazing and wonderful but different. As a SOBO you will run in to other SOBOs and could end up in a pack, but odds are you will hike alone or with 1-2 other hikers for the majority of your trip once your out of Maine. Often times I found myself 2-3 days from the nearest SOBO ahead of me(I finished 17th out of 40th to give you a picture of where I was in the "pack"). A NOBO hike seemed to be much more social oriented. I'm sure you can hike alone and camp alone but it seemed to me it would be much more difficult than for a SOBO. NOBOs tended to inform me of the coolest bars, not neccesarily the coolest sections of the trail. Nothing wrong with either of those but definately different.
As a NOBO you do get Maine and Katadhin to finish on which is a nice draw but after walking 2,173 miles you I could have finished in a parking lot and felt incredible. On the issue of weather in the south you have the possibility of foul weather with a NOBO or a SOBO trip. Snow in the smokies can fall April or October so pick your poison on that one. Also if you start in June you have the bugs but avoid the cold of December. So take that into consideration. Hope this has been helpful.
TJ aka Teej
02-21-2004, 23:50
For the last several years the Hunt Trail (as the A.T. is called on Katahdin) has been open by Memorial Day weekend. It's always the first trail to open due to the western exposure, after an icy section on the edge of the ravine just above the Cave clears. Last year it opened officially on May 24th, and by June 6th 70 MEGAs had entered the 100 Mile Wilderness.
Singletrack
03-25-2004, 20:39
I am planning on leaving SOBO on 21 June from Mt. Katahdin. I would like for someone to reassure me that I am taking the right clothes, and sleeping bag. Its been 4 years since I was in Maine. My clothes are a pair of Silk Skins Long underwear, Zip n Go Pants, Capeline LS shirt, duofold skivies, hiking socks, ball cap, mosquito net, driclime wind shirt, manzella gloves, and Frogg Toggs Shell. My sleeping bag is a FF 35 degree Rock Wren. I will swap out the LS Capeline for short sleeve shirts, when I arrive in Hanover. Any advice or recomendations will be appreciated.
Smooth03
03-25-2004, 21:52
Looks like you have a good list there. I carried a winter stocking cap and used it for almost all of thru-hike, although I'm an admitted "cold" person. I did not notice if you had a fleece jacket in there but I would reccommend one. I used a 200 fill(or whatever the unit of measurement is) and it was perfect for the cold nights of Maine. Also a perfect pillow. Again I'm a cold person, but I always had my LS capalene. Nice for sleeping. Even at 60 degrees of your immobile it can get chilly. Obviously once you've been on the trail for 450 miles(roughly at hanover) you can make your decision based on your experience My only other comment:skivies?????????? You gotta go commando.
TJ aka Teej
03-25-2004, 23:24
Silk Skins Long underwear, Zip n Go Pants, Capeline LS shirt, duofold skivies, hiking socks, ball cap, mosquito net, driclime wind shirt, manzella gloves, and Frogg Toggs Shell.
I doubt you'll need the longjohns or gloves, think about adding a fleece hat and vest for layering. That's a head net, right? You'll need that! Long sleeves and pants are a good idea for a buggy June. Remember you won't be able to mail home any gear until Monson. Think about staying in the Park the night before and after your climb, you'll need reservations if you do.
Singletrack
03-26-2004, 07:27
Thanks everyone. My Marmot Driclime Windshirt will serve as my fleece jacket. Its pretty warm, especially when layered. I might throw my bacaclava in, I do not have a fleece hat. I have made reservations at Katahdin Stream for 2 nights as suggested. My only problem now is getting there. Thanks again.
Thanks everyone. My Marmot Driclime Windshirt will serve as my fleece jacket. Its pretty warm, especially when layered. I might throw my bacaclava in, I do not have a fleece hat. I have made reservations at Katahdin Stream for 2 nights as suggested. My only problem now is getting there. Thanks again.
I wouldn't say that the windshirt is a substitute for fleece. Bring the fleece.
How to get to Katahdin Steam? Just do the reverse of what NOBO's do. Get the bus in Boston for Bangor. It's an express bus and very comfortable. In Bangor, change to the bus going up I-95. Get off at Medway. Hitch a ride into Millinocket. Hitch a ride from Millinocket to Baxter State Park.
I thought I'd echo what Peaks had to say about fleece.
I started my southbound hike on 7/13, and truth of the matter is that for me, even thought I carried very little clothing, heat was probably more of a problem than cold (do you zip up you bag and roast or leave it unzipped and get eaten)-- except through the Whites where it got down into the high 30*s a few nights.
That said, the only time in my life I ever felt hypothermic was through the Bigalows. The problem wasn't so much the ambient temperature, but rather that my clothes were all wet. When you are at 50* and soaked (or even damp), you might as well be walking naked through the snow.
In any case, SOBOs don't have the same kind of luxury as northbounders with respect to getting off the trail to regroup and dry stuff out. You just push on. When Peaks suggested taking the fleece, I could not help but think how welcome that would have been on my trip, on that day.
I think I'd consider it, anyway. I do know that when deciding on layers, I would do so with the understanding that everyting I hiked in during the day (including both sides of my rain jacket) would be sopping wet 24/7, and I would be just starting to shiver as I walked into camp.
Rick B
Spirit Walker
03-26-2004, 10:53
Singletrack - you said that you were planning to wait until Hanover to get summer clothes. I suggest you bring a tshirt anyhow, from the beginning. You get very warm when hiking, and especially if you are wearing a rain jacket. Plus, you never know when a warm spell will come through. I've had a couple of dayhikes in the Shenandoahs in January where I needed a t-shirt. If nothing else, you'll have something to change into in town while you are doing laundry. When it's 80, those frogg toggs can feel awfully warm as you sit around the laundromat.
Singletrack
03-26-2004, 14:33
Your probably right about the t-shirt. I will add that too. Seems the concensus is for me to take a fleece instead of the dri-clime wind shirt. I have a 200 wt. fleece that I will add and leave the wind shirt. Thanks again, everyone.
steve hiker
03-26-2004, 15:09
I will swap out the LS Capeline for short sleeve shirts, when I arrive in Hanover.Definitely bring summer clothing from the get-go. Remember, you're starting in June and I've heard it can get to 90 in the summer in Maine.
Also, I don't know how much hiking experience you have, but you build heat quickly carrying a pack and capeline can be too warm even in winter. In January I was hiking in the snow in 35* weather and had to take off my capeline top and long underwear, and just hike in my raingear. It was too hot otherwise, and this was in January in the Smokies in two feet of snow at 5,000 feet.
Your probably right about the t-shirt. I will add that too. Seems the concensus is for me to take a fleece instead of the dri-clime wind shirt. I have a 200 wt. fleece that I will add and leave the wind shirt. Thanks again, everyone.
I carry both fleece and windshirt.
TJ aka Teej
03-26-2004, 23:59
...you're starting in June and I've heard it can get to 90 in the summer in Maine.
Yup! 95ish is the common 'record high' for summer days in Maine.
Data from the Millinocket and Greenville airports (roughly the two ends
of the Hundred Mile Wilderness) says the ave. temps were:
Date High Low
5/15 63 40
6/01 68 47
6/14 72 49
6/21 76 53
7/04 76 54
The ave. high/low stays about there thru Labor Day.
Expect much cooler temps at altitude, that's why you need layers.
Singletrack
04-22-2004, 22:18
TJ, Thats more like the weather I remember in the year 2000. I checked my photos, and I wore a long sleeve shirt in every photo. 75 degrees is cool for me. It reaches alot warmer than that in June and July here in Georgia.
wow, registration pays dividends immediately! i'm starting my SOBO June 30th and suggestions on clothes were exactly what i needed. thanks all!
rambunny
05-02-2004, 15:32
Rambunny here leaving Indy 7/11 taking a rental car to Bangor leaving it. Anyone have any idea how to get me and my dog yes i have a dog now,to Millinocket? Also anyone know anything about the kennel there?I've gone NOBO 3 times but i know SOBO will be differant. Am i nuts to think i can do Big K and the 10 out to Abol in 1 and a half days?Also in your wisepastSOBO experience what hostels in the southern end were closed?What do you wish you'd done differantly? Thanks :clap
Singletrack
05-02-2004, 19:18
Rambunny, the Companion lists Kennel services as Connie McManus at 207-723-6795 and Natalie Voisine at 207-723-5722. Both will house dogs for Thru Hikers. As far as getting to Millinockett from Bangor, Cyr Bus Lines leaves Bangor at 6:30 pm, but I do not know if they take dogs. A call would not hurt, 1-800-244-2335. With your experience, I am sure you can do the 15 miles. Hope this helps. As far as Hostels being closed, the only one that comes to mind, is the Strawberry Patch. Most were all open when I went thru in 2000. See you on the Trail.
TJ aka Teej
05-02-2004, 22:10
Rambunny here leaving Indy 7/11 taking a rental car to Bangor leaving it. Anyone have any idea how to get me and my dog yes i have a dog now,to Millinocket? Also anyone know anything about the kennel there?
...
Am i nuts to think i can do Big K and the 10 out to Abol in 1 and a half days?
Also in the good ol' Companion under Medway:
Dogs are welcome at The Gateway Inn 207 746 3293,
and at Pine Grove Campground and Cottages 207 746 5171.
Nicatau Outfitters 207 746 3253/3251 do shuttles and board pets.
North Ridge Kennels 207 746 9537 drop off and pick up hours are 9-10 AM and 6-7 PM only, several miles down a side road, look for the sign.
The bus gets in to Medway at about 7:45 PM, and last I checked no pets.
...
Rambunny, do you have reservations at Baxter? That's a busy time at the Park! If you have a campsite at Katahdin Stream, consider hiking in from Abol Bridge, staying over, climbing Katahdin *at first light* to beat the crowds, and hitching out to pick up fido after your return to the campgound.
Dogs are welcome at Abol Bridge Campgound and the State run Abol Pines campsites across the river.