View Full Version : Seeking hike recommendations (again)
Months ago I asked for and got recommendations for a PCT section hike to commence on August 4 of this year -- three weeks from Sunday. Based on those recommendations we made detailed plans to fly into San Francisco and hike "Section P," from Castella to Etna. But it seems California is on fire... and at best, this section will be hot and very smoky. At worst, the fires will still be burning, or new fires may have started. Not quite what we were looking for!
So here I am again -- asking the same question. Heck, it doesn't even have to be the PCT -- but it would be nice if it were a continuous trail in something that looks and feels a bit like wilderness. General considerations:
1. Roughly 100-120 mile section (7 or 8 days hiking @ 15 miles/day)
2. Proximity (say, within 6 hours drive) from San Francisco
3. Accessibility: need a place to stash car during the hike,
and a way to get back to starting point
4. Decent scenery, not too hot.
5. Hopefully: permits, bear canisters, extreme navigation skills not needed.
JMT (or a piece of it) fails on several counts -- otherwise we'd have chosen that without much thought.
Bummer for you and me!
Not sure about southern OR but it's pretty sweet hiking. You could try north from Ashland OR.
kings canyon is a wonderful place to consider if you havent been there....even if you have been there
not sure what the situation is there to be honest though
have a great hike
kings canyon is a wonderful place to consider if you havent been there....even if you have been there
Yeah, no doubt a beautiful piece of trail -- except the logistics of a 7-8 day hike in that neighborhood are... danged near impossible from what I can tell. Getting on and off the trail would be the issue, it seems to me. (I wouldn't mind being wrong about that...)
Are you sure it's as bad as you think it is there? I've been reading Chinaman and Rambi's journal on TJ's, and they just cleared that area with no problems. Fires didn't seem too prevalent. They mentioned snow, but that'll be gone in August.
Are you sure it's as bad as you think it is there? I've been reading Chinaman and Rambi's journal on TJ's, and they just cleared that area with no problems. Fires didn't seem too prevalent. They mentioned snow, but that'll be gone in August.
I haven't been reading trail journals (that's a good suggestion, thanks), but I've been watching the fire maps and reports, and have been in contact with a hostel proprietor in a town just north of Etna. Plus reports from a woman I know whose husband commutes frequently to Redding, CA.
Here's a map of the fires (http://www.oes.ca.gov/WebPage/oeswebsite.nsf/InteractiveMap?readForm). Here's a detailed list (http://165.221.39.44/). (2nd link has been slow to respond lately.) There are no fires in Section P, but several fires within a few dozen miles west and south. Plus local temperatures in excess of 100 degrees F.
If you are worried about temps and smoke, think about hiking some on the California Coastal Trail. The Sierra is going to be hot during the day. That's pretty much unavoidable.
I'm not sure how it is in section P but Disco mentioned closures and smoke up to Burney a week or so ago. I can hardly see the lake and I'm 50 feet from Lake Tahoe, and the mountains surrounding it, forgetaboutit.
Are you sure it's as bad as you think it is there? I've been reading Chinaman and Rambi's journal on TJ's, and they just cleared that area with no problems. Fires didn't seem too prevalent. They mentioned snow, but that'll be gone in August.
I'm not sure how it is in section P but Disco mentioned closures and smoke up to Burney a week or so ago. I can hardly see the lake and I'm 50 feet from Lake Tahoe, and the mountains surrounding it, forgetaboutit.
Yah sounds like people have been forced to skip around. Bummer. It's amazing how things can change SO much on that trail from year to year. 07' was a great year, very lucky.
Fannypack
07-12-2008, 18:40
July 11 entry - http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=242579
Tomorrow we head out from Donner Pass and head 40 miles north (toward the fires) to Sierra City. Depending on whether or not the smoke become worse, less worse, or mildly bearable, we will determine whether or not we should hike an additional 40 miles to Quincy-LaPort Road, or hitch directly to Quincy where we can take a bus for $3 to Chester, 100 miles north to the other side of the fire zone. With any luck, mi mum might decide to meet us with bicycles in janky to pretty descent condition to ride from Quincy to Chester. Again, it depends on the smoke and how great of a mom I have (no hints here or anything).
Fannypack
07-12-2008, 18:49
http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?trailname=6384
Here we are way ahead of where we would normally be. The reason: fire closures from Sierra City to Chester on the PCT.
http://www.weather.gov/aq/
Click on the state. Should give you clickable spots to regionalize.
Watch the today/+12hrs, and remember the time zone.
I have been in the smoke zone of a major wildfire, and it was unpleasant. I cannot imagine working a fireline.
The coast is pretty. Go North. Pee on a redwood.
http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?trailname=6384
Here we are way ahead of where we would normally be. The reason: fire closures from Sierra City to Chester on the PCT.
Those are hundreds of miles south of where Terrapin wanted to hike. I've heard Quincy-La port Rd to Chester is closed, and possibly now some stuff near Burney
Lost Coast Trail. Cool breezes, no smoke.
http://www.weather.gov/aq/
That's a great link, thanks. There's a tab on the map that shows "air quality" and may be a good indicator of where the worst smoke is. Unfortunately the cloud over northern CA seems to lay over "Section P" of the PCT -- though I can't be 100% certain of that. I also noticed some changes in the picture between yesterday and today... so I'll be watching this one. Thanks again.
Latest news, in the local papers, pretty much say the fires in NoCA are increasingly being contained. With smoke disapating you very well may be able to hike section P without problems.
Fannypack
07-15-2008, 18:47
Terrapin,
I just got an email from a friend in Mt Shasta, CA which is very near Castella via I-5 and this is what they say:
"I know Chuck emailed you yesterday but last night more thunderstorms struck the area northwest of Weed and possibly started more fires.
It has been really smoky here lately. I wouldn't reccommend anyone coming out this way for a hike this summer, fire danger is really high and this is thunder season.
We are still happy in Mount Shasta and plan to stay at least through another winter but I don't see us leaving anytime soon."
Since u already have your plane tics, maybe the Tahoe Rim Trail. (http://www.tahoerimtrail.org/)
This would be an easy trip from San Fran. The 150 miles maybe be too much for 1 week but u will always be close to transportation so u could cut it short.
Maybe SLY can give u some feedback on this trail including a place to leave the car... As I remember, the TRT coincides with PCT some on the west side of Lake Tahoe.
Good luck.
Fannypack -- thanks very much for the update and the suggestion. For a moment I saw a gleam of hope -- some news articles about a fresh rainfall beating down some of the fires. For one day, the smoke cloud seemed to recede.... but then it came back, bad as ever. Discouraging.
The Solemates
07-15-2008, 23:18
i just spent all day in Desolation Wildnerness, and would highly recommend it!
i just spent all day in Desolation Wildnerness, and would highly recommend it!
So where is that, approximately?
The Solemates
07-16-2008, 00:03
So where is that, approximately?
southwest of tahoe
i just spent all day in Desolation Wildnerness, and would highly recommend it!
Yeah that place absolutely rocks, as does Granite Chief. Pretty underated PCT section.
Yeah that place absolutely rocks, as does Granite Chief. Pretty underated PCT section.
Yeah, since they're getting a grip on the fires and the smoke is disapating section K from Echo Lake to I-80 through Desolation Wilderness and Granite Chief Wilderness would be another option. Two things though, Terrapin would need a permit for DW and it's only 64 miles.
could always just do the trt.. about 165 miles..goes thru that area as well
could always just do the trt.. about 165 miles..goes thru that area as well
Hey Yappy, saw your posts on the TRT forum! I started the trail but reinjured an ankle from last year. It's still not right. :mad: Heading back East next weekend. :mad::mad:
Oh no...;(( hate to hear that. maybe you could do trail with us in Sept if ya stayed with bulldog ?.. sorry to hear about the injury...heading back to ga ?
Yup back to GA, but already thinking about a trip to NE to visit friends, family and Rainman.
PS Terrapin, sorry for the hijack, but we'll find a section of trail for you eventually!
lol... yeah, sorry T. Ok Sly, maybe next year will see ya out there...:).. sounds like chick and neighbor are doing well.
PS Terrapin, sorry for the hijack, but we'll find a section of trail for you eventually!
Umm, great. ;) Time's running a bit short. What's "Section Q" like? I'm thinking maybe driving further north and walking SOBO towards Etna... hoping that gets me out of the worst of the smoke. Waddya think?
it has been awhile since i have been on that part of pct... but from what i remember it was easy hiking and very pretty. Etna was a cool town too.
Umm, great. ;) Time's running a bit short. What's "Section Q" like? I'm thinking maybe driving further north and walking SOBO towards Etna... hoping that gets me out of the worst of the smoke. Waddya think?
Parts of it are fantastic. The Marble Mountain Wilderness is one of my favorites. The first 40 miles north of Etna are really scenic, and pretty easy ridgewalking. Then you have a long plunge (for you, a climb) out of Seiad Valley. The lower elevation is really mossy and follows Grider Creek (?) for miles. Lots of good camping.
OK, Plans B and C are starting to take shape.
Plan B: Mammoth Lakes to Sonora Pass (120 miles)
Plan C: Sonora Pass to... some place about 100 miles north of there... :-?
The major issue with Plan B is that it goes thru the whole of Yosemite Park; My main concern is crowds and passes. I'm aware that we'd need bear canisters for both of us. (Ugh... an extra 2.5 pounds apiece!) On the plus side, it looks like relatively easy on and off.
The issue with Plan C is where and how to leave the trail at the north end. Echo Lake (South Tahoe) is a bit too short a hike (70 miles) but going north from there, there's no easy way off the trail that I can see. We're looking for 100-120 miles total in order to really optimize our time.
Plan D would have been to hike south from Mammoth Lakes -- but in that case, getting off the trail 100-120 miles south of there looks to be damned near impossible. This is JMT territory.
Comments? Suggestions?
fiddlehead
07-18-2008, 23:46
OK,
Plan D would have been to hike south from Mammoth Lakes -- but in that case, getting off the trail 100-120 miles south of there looks to be damned near impossible. This is JMT territory.
Comments? Suggestions?
Bail out at Shepherds pass. It's a long downhill but this time of year you can most likely catch a ride from the trailhead. (just to the south of Forrester pass) You'd catch some good stuff in that section. Probably not as hard to get a permit going in at Mammoth too. You'd still have to carry the bear canisters though i guess. That sucks. We always just stealth camp on the JMT and I never saw a bear on that trail.
Bail out at Shepherds pass. It's a long downhill but this time of year you can most likely catch a ride from the trailhead. (just to the south of Forrester pass) You'd catch some good stuff in that section. Probably not as hard to get a permit going in at Mammoth too. You'd still have to carry the bear canisters though i guess. That sucks. We always just stealth camp on the JMT and I never saw a bear on that trail.
How difficult are these "escape" passes? I see several trails heading east off the PCT/JMT between Rae Lakes and Shepherd Pass. They all look like they could be gnarly.
We may be trying to cram too much action into too short a time. Realistically, we've only got 7-9 days to hike; we've got to figure a full day to/from SFO at either end. This will be the first "California hiking" for either of us.
fiddlehead
07-19-2008, 04:57
How difficult are these "escape" passes? I see several trails heading east off the PCT/JMT between Rae Lakes and Shepherd Pass. They all look like they could be gnarly.
We may be trying to cram too much action into too short a time. Realistically, we've only got 7-9 days to hike; we've got to figure a full day to/from SFO at either end. This will be the first "California hiking" for either of us.
Shepherds pass down to the trailhead is about a 6,000 foot descent. How are your knees? I like descents so found it pretty cool. Passed some horse people heading down, they were taking it slow. It was a little rough for horses i thought.
It would be a beautiful section although if you ever have dreamed of the JMT, you would be doing a lot of the good stuff (the high passes anyway)
You can check it out on Google earth if you want, shepherds is just south of Forrester at: N36d40'21" W118 deg20'45"
The other bailout would be the Bishop pass trail. We checked into that for a support crew to come in when we speed hiked it but ended up caching nearby.. So, i never went in or out there. I have a friend who did but don't remember what he said. Best to check it out on google earth and see for yourself what you think. (lots of pics on there to see what kind of hiking it is too, gotta zoom in to see them)
Do you know that if you hold down the shift key and use your scroll wheel on GE, you can tilt the earth and see the terrain. Nice feature that makes it easy to find the passes and the way in and out.
I tried to explain this as a great tool for figuring out the best place to build a bridge across the K in Maine but they deleted my post so, i won't go there. (somehow i was off-topic?)
Anyway, i use google earth a lot for checking out places. Use the placemarks for the passes, your start point, trailhead, things like that, then zoom out and see the big picture. (Edward Abbey is rolling over in his grave over it i know.)
Nearly Normal
07-19-2008, 05:17
Take your pick.
http://www.localhikes.com/Default.asp
Plan D would have been to hike south from Mammoth Lakes -- but in that case, getting off the trail 100-120 miles south of there looks to be damned near impossible. This is JMT territory.
Comments? Suggestions?
Bail at Bishop Pass. Not a bad climb. It is just south of Muir Pass, so you'll miss many of the climbs Fiddlehead referred to.
If you got on at Red's Meadow (Mammoth Lakes) and hiked south, you could bail 110 miles later at Kearsarge Pass Trail. It's a 9 mile trail to Onion Valley campgound/trailhead and an easy hitch (just ask) into Independence. From there you can take public transportation back to Mammoth Lakes. Other, earlier bail out points, are Piute Pass (48 mi + 18) and Bishop Pass (76 mi + 12) both leading to Bishop. None of the mentioned passes are overly difficult.
If you got on at Red's Meadow (Mammoth Lakes) and hiked south, you could bail 110 miles later at Kearsarge Pass Trail. It's a 9 mile trail to Onion Valley campgound/trailhead and an easy hitch (just ask) into Independence. From there you can take public transportation back to Mammoth Lakes. Other, earlier bail out points, are Piute Pass (48 mi + 18) and Bishop Pass (76 mi + 12) both leading to Bishop. None of the mentioned passes are overly difficult.
Excellent. The new plan is starting to take shape. Thanks to all.
I just downloaded and started toying with Google Earth. For some reason it's not showing the side trails leading east off the JMT out near Independence. Though it shows Onion Valley Road quite clearly.
Mammoth to Kearsarge would be the best (and hardest) of all of them. You will have to do several passes (shouldn';t be snow).
If you did wanna do the Sonora north section, you could get off at Barker Pass and hitch into Tahoe City. This would be almost exactly 100 miles, and much easier trail. Yogi cites this as a hard hitch, but when I arrived there were 10+ cars in the parking lot.
I have the Harrison JMT maps on my computer at home and will be back in a week. I could email them to you.
Mammoth to Kearsarge would be the best (and hardest) of all of them. You will have to do several passes (shouldn't be snow).
Silver Pass 10900' about a 1800' gain over 4 mi; Selden Pass 10900' - 1900' over 13 mi; Muir Pass 11955' - 3900' over 19 miles; Glen Pass 11978' - 2900' over 8 mi.
digger51
07-19-2008, 11:12
If youare interested in the Seid Valley to Crater Lake section of No CAL And Ore section I can shuttle you to or from either trailhead. No charge. I am in Happy Camp and either are within reach for me. PM me if interested as I don't sign on here often anymore.
Silver Pass 10900' about a 1800' gain over 4 mi; Selden Pass 10900' - 1900' over 13 mi; Muir Pass 11955' - 3900' over 19 miles; Glen Pass 11978' - 2900' over 8 mi.
Mather and Pinchot too.
Mather and Pinchot too.
Yeah right, how'd I miss them? :eek::D
Mather and Pinchot (both after Muir) 12100'- 3100' 10 mi, 12130'- 2100' 4.3 mi
If you got on at Red's Meadow (Mammoth Lakes) and hiked south, you could bail 110 miles later at Kearsarge Pass Trail.
OK, this may come off as a dumb question, but here goes. Does 15 miles per day sound realistic?
There are two of us; neither of us have done any serious west-coast backpacking. Daniel is a strapping 26 year old lad, but with only a bit of hiking experience (a couple of 35-mile AT sections in southern Maine with me, years ago.)
I'm 55, 30 lbs. overweight, but was able to pull off consistent 15 mile days on the middle third of the AT last summer... with 26-28 lbs. on my back including food and water.
Somehow I can't shake the feeling that this is going to be very different from anything we've ever done on the AT. :D :rolleyes: :sun :confused:
Borderline. I did half Muir starting in Yosemite Valley after a two year absence from hiking and off the coach and managed 13 per day. The trail isn't steep, just long climbs and descents.
If you can't make it as far as Kearsarge just bail at the Piute Pass Trail or Bishop Pass. The area is just awesome and considered by many as the best backpacking in NA.
Borderline. I did half Muir starting in Yosemite Valley after a two year absence from hiking and off the coach and managed 13 per day. The trail isn't steep, just long climbs and descents.
If you can't make it as far as Kearsarge just bail at the Piute Pass Trail or Bishop Pass. The area is just awesome and considered by many as the best backpacking in NA.
15 mile days is doable, but you'll be wiped out considering the elevation. I can't stress how important it is to hike the passes in the morning when you have energy. Try to limit yourself to one per day if you can. As Sly says, they aren't difficult climbs, just long, nothing as grueling as the AT. Plus the views help :)
[post move here from another thread... "it" is the Rutland Long Trail Festival.]
Whatever it is, it looks interesting and timely... PCT hike was a bust, so looks like a road trip with the wife... Montreal, Ottawa, the DAKs, topped off with a music festival. Be nice to meet some WBers there.
Whatever it is, it looks interesting and timely... PCT hike was a bust, so looks like a road trip with the wife... Montreal, Ottawa, the DAKs, topped off with a music festival. Be nice to meet some WBers there.
Ahhh, tough year to be out West. I'm headed out to the Glacier Peak section in 10 days for a week romp in one of the most remote sections of the trail before starting school. No fires out there :) hopefully I won't get snowed on this time!
Ahhh, tough year to be out West. I'm headed out to the Glacier Peak section in 10 days for a week romp in one of the most remote sections of the trail before starting school. No fires out there :) hopefully I won't get snowed on this time!
Isn't that section of trail closed?
Isn't that section of trail closed?
Not sure. No current trail conditions on the pcta site, and no official closings I can find. I see a report from J Ley on the re-route section, but the original PCT was open last year, so I assume it's passable (but in rough shape). I guess if I have to do the re-route I'll do it. Spectacular area. Last year I walked around and went up to Bucks Creek Pass and then down to Stehekin from near the Suiattle River.
Ahhh, tough year to be out West. I'm headed out to the Glacier Peak section in 10 days for a week romp in one of the most remote sections of the trail before starting school. No fires out there :) hopefully I won't get snowed on this time!
For the record, fires and weather weren't the problem. The problem was that my nephew was having great difficulty with the altitude -- nausea, shortness of breath, dizziness. Oddly enough, I was OK with it. Nephew's born & raised in Hawaii... and hasn't spent much time more than 50 feet above sea level.
Weather in the Yosemite and JMT area was very nice. Mornings started crystal clear, though clouds would move in by mid-afternoon. We got a light, brief drizzle both evenings.
OregonHiker
08-09-2008, 20:44
For the record, fires and weather weren't the problem. The problem was that my nephew was having great difficulty with the altitude -- nausea, shortness of breath, dizziness. Oddly enough, I was OK with it. Nephew's born & raised in Hawaii... and hasn't spent much time more than 50 feet above sea level.
Weather in the Yosemite and JMT area was very nice. Mornings started crystal clear, though clouds would move in by mid-afternoon. We got a light, brief drizzle both evenings.
Too bad you weren't there during a full moon......an outstanding experience
Since I have the power (heh, heh), I'm going to move the PCT related post to Terrapin's PCT thread! It's good to be King! (let's hope I don't screw it up.)
Edit: Looks like I don't have the power. I can only move to forums I moderate and PCT isn't one of them. I'll see if someone else can do it.
fiddlehead
08-09-2008, 22:01
Whatever it is, it looks interesting and timely... PCT hike was a bust, so looks like a road trip with the wife... Montreal, Ottawa, the DAKs, topped off with a music festival. Be nice to meet some WBers there.
Ottawa is nice. Low altitude there. Love the Rideu canal (sp?)
Once did a week long houseboat trip ending there.
Stayed at the Chateau next door to Parliament. Beautiful old hotel. (Winston Churchill used to stay there whenever he was in town)
Too bad you weren't there during a full moon......an outstanding experience
No prob, there was a nice crescent moon from our second campsite. We talked about the challenges of photographing it. I plan to have another go at it.. some day. And not just a seven-day section, but the whole thing.
Photos of the hike posted here:
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/cpg143/thumbnails.php?album=16
Photos of the hike posted here:
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/cpg143/thumbnails.php?album=16
Awesome, thanks terrapin. Glad you made the trip.
Sorry to hear the trip didn't work out. Definitely plan on doing the whole JMT. There are a few unpleasant inches, but not many.
Nice pics of the western world
Dazzy001
08-10-2008, 20:01
Thinking about the Colarado Trail, My $0.02 cent...... The best in the country?
fiddlehead
08-10-2008, 22:04
Thinking about the Colarado Trail, My $0.02 cent...... The best in the country?
Colorado trail is nice. But, "best in the country?". Not IMO.
You've got:
1/ JMT arguably the "best in country" for a 220 mile trail. (CT is around 500 miles)
2/ The South San Juans (Wiminuche or from Wolf Creek pass to Silverthorn) (I'm guessing 150 miles)
3/ Glacier National Park's CDT section (guessing 125 miles?)
4/ CDT in all of CO (aprox 650 miles)
5/ Grand Canyon hiking (lots of great hiking here if you can stand the views)
6/ Wind River Range (WY) (maybe 100 miles)
Lots of other great hikes in the lower 48.
The problem with the CT trail is that is often stays below treeline while the CDT in CO splits off and goes up where the views are more spectacular. OF course up there, you also have more lightning problems especially in the afternoon)
Not saying the CT trail isn't nice, just don't think its the Best in the country